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What torque wrench to use
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ach60 Premium Member
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 25, 2012 1:16 am    Post subject: What torque wrench to use Reply with quote

OK have a few old Craftsman Torque wrenches, one that turned out to be a POS.
Looking at new torque wrench, but I'd like to know the Torque Wrench ranges you guys have for engine assembly.
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tmcdade
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 25, 2012 5:25 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I bought this one last year when I was planning on doing my build myself - ended up having someone else do it, but it's a top quality wrench, IMO
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002LA19P2/ref=oh_details_o01_s00_i00

Some people prefer a beam style wrench, and say they're more accurate or hold calibration better - idk, I'll let them debate about that. For the gland nut and things above 100 ft/lbs, you can use a torque multiplier available at most VW shops
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 25, 2012 6:58 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Except for the gland nut, the highest torque value is 43 pounds on the engine. Most are in the teens and twenty's. A 0 to 50 would be a better choice than a 10 to 100.
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HRVW
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 25, 2012 11:03 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Idea Snap On clicker......will last a lifetime and Warranty.
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slalombuggy
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 25, 2012 11:30 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

My Snap-on torque wrench is 25 years old and still going strong. I get it checked every year for calibration. Mine is a clicker type 5-75ft/lbs. Buy once, cry once and never have to guess if your tool is correct.

Get one where the middle of the torque range is where you'll be using it most. At the bottom or top of their ranges they are a little bit less accurate.
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Glenn Premium Member
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 25, 2012 11:35 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Torque wrenches are less accurate at the extremes so i have 3.
1/2" 25-250 ft-lbs KD
3/8" 10-100 ft-lbs SK
1/4" 10-100 in-lbs SK
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 25, 2012 12:25 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I stopped using clicker wrenches and not only use the beam/pointer type.
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JoeD
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 25, 2012 12:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

[email protected] wrote:
I stopped using clicker wrenches and not only use the beam/pointer type.


I uset to work in a shop that calibrated guages and things like torque wrenches. The beam ones loose their accuracy much faster than the quality click ones do. Most people dont even know how to operate a beam type wrench and end up having a much lower torque. Its one of the reasons the click type was developed.
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 25, 2012 12:50 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

HRVW wrote:
Idea Snap On clicker......will last a lifetime and Warranty.


Snap On warranty for tourqe wrenches is only one year.

I have a NAPA 1/2 25-250 and Craftsmen 3/8 15-80~ both have held up well but the most critical is to have them calibrated which i need to have done...

and always back them to 0 when done!!
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 25, 2012 3:23 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I use this one for heavy Stuff!

http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item.asp?P65=&t...ir=catalog

And This one for small stuff like engine building!

http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item.asp?P65=&t...ir=catalog
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 25, 2012 4:26 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

JoeD wrote:
[email protected] wrote:
I stopped using clicker wrenches and not only use the beam/pointer type.


I uset to work in a shop that calibrated guages and things like torque wrenches. The beam ones loose their accuracy much faster than the quality click ones do. Most people dont even know how to operate a beam type wrench and end up having a much lower torque. Its one of the reasons the click type was developed.


How does a beam wrench lose its accuracy?

It seems like it would have to be physically damaged in some way or the metal would have to lose it's properties, perhaps through extreme heat, like putting a torch on it.
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JoeD
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 25, 2012 4:44 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Got me. I asked and I was told but I didnt understand.
But they do. We had ones off by 30%.
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bsairhead
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 25, 2012 5:12 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

This post had me looking on flebay. Just bought a Tohnichi 460 F-N 1/2 drive. Don't know if it's calibrated but it is a very well made tool.
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modok
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 25, 2012 5:45 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

If it's calibrated then it is good.

I have seen craftsman off by 15 pounds, but all it needed was adjustment. If you can't figure out how to adjust them then you can just make a chart that tells you what to set it at for the torque you need.
THe only one I ever saw that was complete garbage was one from autozone where I think the chinese messed up converting foot pounds to newton meters. The handle only had 8 lines on it? the marks on the wrench did not line up with the handle! Shocked

You can rig up a system to calibrate a torque wrench yourself fairly easily, depending on what you have on hand. At a minimum you'd need a tape measure and a bucket and a measuring cup Wink

Once you have just ONE good torque wrench you can calibrate all the others, just hook them together with a socket!
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 25, 2012 7:08 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

My matco 3/8 10-100lbs works bitchen. What's more amazing is my harbor freight ones seem to work just as well. When my matco was brand new i tested the harbor frieght ones against it... acurrate to atleast a few lbs.
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 25, 2012 8:59 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Wife bought me a snap on 3/8 some years ago at a pawn shop. I have a harbor freight one I loan out, I never get any complaints.
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 25, 2012 9:26 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

EverettB wrote:
How does a beam wrench lose its accuracy?

That's what I'd like to know. Yes, a cheap one will fatigue or bend, but not a quality unit. If I'm building an engine I care about, I'm not going to be using a $19.99 torque wrench made from melted down tin sheds. I have three; click, dial, and beam, but I use the beam the most.

Paul
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Islandman
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PostPosted: Fri Oct 26, 2012 6:45 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ooh, don't forget the mighty Ungawa. Instant one handed torque to 350 with a clunk instead of a click when achieved. LOL! Laughing

Snap-On 3/4 in drive 100-600 ft lbs:

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.
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Glenn Premium Member
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PostPosted: Fri Oct 26, 2012 6:55 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Only problem is the max torque is 30mkg (217ft-lbs). So if you plan on exceeding the factory torque spec for the gland nut, you'll need a bigger wrench.
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PostPosted: Fri Oct 26, 2012 7:02 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Not zero'd
needs calibration Wink Laughing
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