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Baja/Class 11 Project
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68ohiobug
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PostPosted: Fri Oct 26, 2012 9:53 am    Post subject: Baja/Class 11 Project Reply with quote

I'm new to the Samba forum thing and wanted to try it...

I have a '68 Beetle that was wrecked, (before I got it), and I had planned on Baja'n it, but after looking at class 11 beetles i may go that way...
When I say wrecked I mean that that front was smashed and replaced, the driver side quarter panel is dented, and the back apron... Its got to go one way or the other.

I have some pics of what I have done so far, but till I post them here is a list:
1. replaced floor pans
2. replaced bottom front of the tunnel
3. replaced heat channel.... That has issues... Two different year channels...
4. sand blasted body
5. POR 15 the pan and body
6. starting to Peal 'n' Seal (Lowes Roofing product) for sound damping

If there are any suggestions or comments let me know. I am alittle on the fence about what to do...
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68ohiobug
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PostPosted: Fri Oct 26, 2012 10:21 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Here is the pics I have....
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68ohiobug
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PostPosted: Fri Oct 26, 2012 10:31 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sorry. Im just figuring out how to do this.

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The other photos I have are on a disposable camera..... you may not see them.... but yet you might. It depends on me developing them.
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joescoolcustoms
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PostPosted: Fri Oct 26, 2012 10:54 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Perfect canidate for a Baja. A class 11 style will have a rear apron on it.

I would suggest removing the coil over shocks, they make a VW ride very harshly. If you are using them for lift purposes, re-index the rear and install adjusters in the front to get the height without the un-do harshness.

I am in Saint Albans, WV, where abouts in SE Ohio are you located?


Welcome to the Samba!
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Looks like it was painted with a live chicken,polished with a brick and buffed with a pine cone
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68ohiobug
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PostPosted: Fri Oct 26, 2012 1:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I plan on using it as a DD, not much off-road use. The most it will see is well/gravel roads. And I have a back apron, but I don't know how modivated I am.
The Big issue is of course $$$$, as it always is. There is not much room in my income for the Baja kit, but I also have a 71 super that came with a kit and if the rear finders will work I will start with them or replace the apron.
If I raise it the coilover will look neat... as for function thats to be seen
To answer your question, I am 5 mile out of Marietta.
I like the Buggy you have as your profile pic by the way.
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68ohiobug
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PostPosted: Fri Oct 26, 2012 1:07 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I may cut and turn later but for now I'll get it in driving condition.
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sxuxrxf
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PostPosted: Fri Oct 26, 2012 1:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Are you sure it's a '68? It appears that the pan has an IRS rear, which would be '69 and up.
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joescoolcustoms
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PostPosted: Fri Oct 26, 2012 1:25 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Auto Stick Beetles in '68 came with IRS rear suspension. The 4 speed '68's came with swing axle. If this is indeed a '68 with factory IRS, a clutch tube had to be added to use a 4 speed tranny and the peddle cluster switched out.

So, before you finish the pan, investigate the clutch tube to make sure it was installed well, with no movement. Correct any hacking or poor welding now so it does not come back to haunt you later when the body is on and you cannot get to it.
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Looks like it was painted with a live chicken,polished with a brick and buffed with a pine cone
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68ohiobug
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PostPosted: Fri Oct 26, 2012 5:58 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I checked the vin # and according to Appletreeauto.com it is a '68, and it has had an inspection hole cut into the tunnel by the pedal assm. As for the trans it is a 4 speed, but it also came with a second trans, which may be the original. I was wondering if it was a swing or IRS, if it is IRS then I am lead to believe that that is more desirable for Baja and Class11.

And of course, It had had other owners... so it could be a mix'n'match car. I will have to check the vins and see whats what.
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68ohiobug
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PostPosted: Fri Oct 26, 2012 6:11 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

sxuxrxf,
I had been searching the site for a while before I joined, and the Blue Class 11 you have pics of is part of the reason that I am leaning toward a Class 11 Look a like. It is sweet.

Oh, And Has anyone replaced the heater channels and lined up the doors, then weld and once the jack was down the doors fell out of allinement?

I am having that issue.... and it was alot of grinding and rewelding that I have done and still not there.... "It's The Little Things"
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joescoolcustoms
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PostPosted: Fri Oct 26, 2012 6:28 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
it is a '68, and it has had an inspection hole cut into the tunnel by the pedal assm.


That access hole was cut to run the clutch tube through the pan. If you can, shine a light through the tunnel and look to see that the clutch tube is welded in in at least three good spots, four would be better. One right near the peddle cluster, one where it pokes out the rear beside the accelerator cable tube and then one or two in between. If it flexes inside the tunnel, the clutch will jump and chatter when you release it taking off from a start.
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Bad News Racing 2018 NORRA 1000 3rd in Class
Best Day Ever Racing 2022 NORRA 1000 2nd in Class and first All Female team to complete the race

Everyone is gifted. Some just do not open the package.

Looks like it was painted with a live chicken,polished with a brick and buffed with a pine cone
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68ohiobug
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PostPosted: Sun Oct 28, 2012 8:29 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for the tip. I will defiantly check that. As for checking the vin numbers I haven't had time lately, but I still plan too.
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68ohiobug
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 31, 2012 6:53 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have checked the vins and it is a '68 with an Autostick, but someone somewhere has converted it to a manual. There are holes for the clutch that were cut in. And as for the clutch tube, it was installed properly.... one less thing to worry about. I have finished the sound damping, I may have went overboard with it. Rolling Eyes I will post picks once I have some, I have been waiting on a break line kit that I ordered in September before setting the body and it was backed ordered, to be shipped on the Oct 26th, but is back ordered again till the Nov 16th. Mad Needless to said, I have ordered else where, and should be here in a week. Smile

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68ohiobug
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PostPosted: Thu Nov 01, 2012 6:14 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Here is an update on bug

Pics of the Sound damping
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Motor Installed with new mounts. And it runs but won't idle....
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CV's are on, but I need to repack them, they won't move. At all....
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The new brakes hoses are installed on the front, master cylinder on, pedal assembly on with throtle and clutch hooked up and adjusted.... for now. I hope to have the brake lines on and the body set by next week. More pics to come....

And if there is anything that you may see, or know of anything that will help let me know... I'm new to this and don't want to f anything up....
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dirtkeeper
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PostPosted: Thu Nov 01, 2012 6:46 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

"cv's not moving at all" may be a red flag.. repacking may be a good idea but i dont think that is the problem ...sounds like maybe they didnt go back together right... did you take them off
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68ohiobug
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PostPosted: Thu Nov 01, 2012 7:04 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yeah I took them apart. I read my Haynes Manual and believe that I had reassemblied them incorrectly. The inner or outer bearing housing needs to be rotated one bearing channel over..... Thats not to bad. I guess I didn't pay enough attention to the way they came apart.
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68ohiobug
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PostPosted: Thu Nov 01, 2012 7:16 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Here is a pic of the CV's
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I had lined up the narrow part of the inner bearing housing with the narrow end of the outer bearing housing. I think it needs to be narrow with wide.
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PostPosted: Thu Nov 01, 2012 5:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

this might be a good read. You can clock them while your at it
http://www.outfrontmotorsports.com/cv_assembly.htm
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68ohiobug
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PostPosted: Fri Nov 02, 2012 9:20 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks. That helped alot. They were easy to move after i packed them the right way.
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68ohiobug
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 07, 2012 7:26 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm not sure how to start to get my engine to idle....
It starts and runs, but it will stall if the throttle isn't being pulled.
It also smells like it is burning rich... I know nothing about carbs..
So if anyone has any idea, tips, or anything would help.....

It is an orginal 68 motor. I have the wiring hocked up so it will start by a push button, and with a rigged gas tank....
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