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ORANGECRUSHer
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 24, 2014 9:12 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I would just drain the gas from the tank and add Christy DryGas to the new gas.

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75smith
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 24, 2014 11:05 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

is it not running right? or is it possible detonation, might need to step up in the octane to get it to run right...or down, my dads jeep is supposed to run on 66(which is of course NLA) so we run 87, ran 89 once it did not like, stumbled and died


of course water will do the same thing
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68ohiobug
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 25, 2014 12:03 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well I unhooked the fuel line from the pump and there was no flow... Confused
So I tried to siphon it out, still no flow... Mad
Then I used compressed air to blow the line back to the tank... bubbling noises came from the tank...
I tried to siphon it again from the tank.... And wallah gas flow... in a few minutes it filled a quart jar and there was no indication that it was bad gas.... plus I may have swallowed so gas Shocked

What I figured is that there may be something in the tank causing the issue, but I can't see anything in the tank to cause blockage....

I picked up a new gas can, new gas, Star-Tron Enzyme Ethanol treatment, new filters, and plan to still drain the tank and replace filters and gas with treatment.

I also have a pump rebuild on its way, and I plan to get an in tank filter...

More as it happens... And thanks for the input, it is helping a lot...
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68ohiobug
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 27, 2014 7:16 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well I drained the gas and replaced the filters, and there was a lot of rust and dirt in the filters.
So I replaced both with larger filters and put in new gas, I also rebuilt the fuel pump.
I may have discovered the issue with fuel flow and I will have to watch it.
I sealed the tank a while ago and the rust in the fuel is a little puzzling, but hopeful it was just something that made it in once. I guess I will have to get some spare filters to carry with me and I have extra parts collecting in the car that I plan to have for "Just In Case" moments....

Oh.. I also found that my fuel gage is a 1/4 tank off on its reading.... guess I get to figure that out now.... Ex: Half a Tank is a quart tank.... and Full is full....
I have played with the sending unit, but not to any progress...
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68ohiobug
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 03, 2014 1:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

So I got the car legalized over the weekend, but not without hiccups...
On the way into the DMV, the car chocked out, and after looking at my filter... well lets just say I had to do an in road filter replacement... Confused
I got there did the stuff they required, and on the way back I broke down again... Mad
Went to look and see if gas was flowing to the pump, and it was, just out of the pump itself... the rebuild kit gave out.... Crying or Very sad
I am glade I put the old pump internals in the car...
I then made it home, but barely.. so I drained the tank again and found A LOT of rust and dirt. Got the crap cleaned out, put an in-tank filter in, filtered the gas back into the car, and I was able to drive it again... for 3 hours without problems..... Cool Hells Yeah... there is nothing like driving a bug for the first time with not issues... Laughing
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mkparker
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 03, 2014 3:50 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Awesome! Great job with the "field repairs" also. These old gas tanks pick up a lot of junk over the years. You might want to throw in a fire extinguisher for possible future flare ups. It happens too often in these cars. Also, be aware of where your fuel filters are located and what could happen if one cracks, becomes disconnected or breaks.
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68ohiobug
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 04, 2014 5:55 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

mkparker,
I fire extinguisher is a great idea... I'm looking into getting one now.
Also I put the fuel filters in the front passenger side area under the tank, and the other is in the area above the transmission. I went through and put hose clamps on every connection. So hopefully I will not need to worry about the filters being a cause of a fire.
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thesatelliteguy
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 04, 2014 8:32 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hey man, Thats a good looking bug! Popcorn
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 05, 2014 10:41 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks, I drove it to work today and I was going 60mph for 10 miles none stop and it lagged a little at hills, but ran smooth. Hopefully I will have time after work to cruse around a while. Cool

Driving it made me more giddy than a school girl on prom night...lol Laughing
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68ohiobug
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 10, 2014 5:23 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

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My first Fill-Up.... Laughing

I Changed the oil, and adjusted the valves, but I think I may have them to lose...
I will have to check them again...
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68ohiobug
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 31, 2014 1:01 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I got the car aligned and it made a huge difference... and possible my new favorite pic... Cool
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I also ordered/installed an new 30PICT-2 carb from Tim Volks (it was sweet, he does great work) my other was leaking gas through the throttle linkage, and readjusted my valves to the correct clearance. They were waaaayyyyy out...
I made a TDC tool from an old spark plug and bolt, it worked like magic..
once I got TDC on all cylinders I then marked the pulley with a file, now I can't screw it up again... Embarassed

Well off to drive the car some more....
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 30, 2014 6:16 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

It has been a while and I have some updates...
I have been driving the bug every chance I get.... and it has revealed some issues...

First of all, I had to adjust my brake pedal to have more response when being pressed and it worked great for a while, but now it is lacking again. So I have done some research to find a set of disc brakes to improve the car. here is the sets I went with... CIP1.com
http://www2.cip1.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=ACC%2DC10%2D4126%2DFKT
http://www2.cip1.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=ACC%2DC10%2D4124
Unfortunately there is no good review on disc brakes that I could find, and nor was there any on a 4bolt set...
Oh well... so once they come in I plan to switch out the brakes...

And on the other hand, I have been driving the bug the past couple days and it has been raining off and on. Monday it rained and the inside was damp, no big deal just humidity, so I thought. On Tuesday it rained harder but not as often, and I don't know what made me look in the back seat but this is what I found...
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I guess I have some seals (doors I think) to adjust...
I may just have to carry around a towel to mop things up and leave the windows down on nice days to dry for now...
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Brian
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 30, 2014 6:22 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

You shouldn't even bother with the rear disc brakes. There's really no upgrade there.

Also that leak may be a problem.
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68ohiobug
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 30, 2014 6:52 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

lustig69, Thanks for a reply, the only reason I wanted to do the back is to make it the same all around... plus what I read in the forum is that back is for off-road and front for road. I am not sure if gravel roads count as off-road but there is a lot of them and traffic on them around here, and I was thinking that they would help...

For the leak I have some suspensions
#1 -Leaking Door Seal (have to
#2 -Leaking at Starter Battery Cable to Body grommet (Road Spray)
#3 -Leaking Body seal (unlikely due to using a silicon cocking)

I was thinking about using a dust/baby powder/etc on the inside of the seals and put the water hose to it... but I am not sure that will work...
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 30, 2014 6:58 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

For the brakes, makes sense that way. Make sure you get some residual valves or a new master cylinder.

68ohiobug wrote:

I was thinking about using a dust/baby powder/etc on the inside of the seals and put the water hose to it... but I am not sure that will work...


This sounds like a good plan. I would just go through and change any of those seals if you suspect them though.
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68ohiobug
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 30, 2014 9:43 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Lustig69,
What are and why Residual Valves or new Master? I thought that the kits I got will bolt right up with the current system I have.
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 30, 2014 3:42 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

yes they will bolt on but brake drum master cylinders are different from disc brake master cylinders. discs require 2lbs of pressure where drums need 10lbs
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wbrown45
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 30, 2014 3:52 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

lustig69 wrote:
yes they will bolt on but brake drum master cylinders are different from disc brake master cylinders. discs require 2lbs of pressure where drums need 10lbs
Karman Ghias use the same master cylinder with front disc brakes as a drum brake equipped bug. I have been running 4 Ghia calipers on my Baja's 4-wheel disc brake system for over 18 years. It has a stock German master cylinder with no proportioning valve. This system works flawlessly on, and off road with no lock up issues. I ran just the front disc brakes for a year, and it was prone to lock up the front wheels in panic stops. After adding the rear discs the braking is perfectly balanced. The rotors are cross-drilled, and it uses stock pads. My wheels are 15" Ultras 3" front/7" rear with 215/75R15/31x 10.50-15 BFG Mud Terrains. I can shut it down on dry pavement at 60 mph in a much shorter distance than any of my other ACVW's that use all drum or a front disc/rear drum combo.
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68ohiobug
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PostPosted: Thu May 01, 2014 6:20 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have a Two Port Master Cylinder that I changed out with a new one when doing the brake lines, and I will try and see if they will need the Valve. But Just so I am clear on this:
-If they lack in stopping or have to pump, then the valve is needed.
-If they lock up and no pumping there may be no need for the valve.

I did search about the valve after posting my question and found that some masters come with the valve already in the master, and people had to remove it.
I don't know if mine is one of these masters or not... Maybe you'all will know or help me with that...
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PostPosted: Thu May 01, 2014 6:39 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yank the carpet out. Cars to old to seal perfectly unless it's driven on glass with no rain or it's a flawless unbeat vw. you'll end up caging it anyway.
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