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T4 1.7 refesh/rebuild
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1967250s
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 29, 2013 12:30 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Can't you use the plexi plate for the head to cc the piston heads? Or just make a flat plexi plate with a hole and just set it on there? And is that head clearance measured from the edge of the piston or the center? It looked like that one piston had a valve strike. Were the valves checked for sealing? Valve springs checked? Do you have ratio rockers? You might have a bent valve or worn guides. The heads are the biggest problem on these engines. The bottom end is fairly easy to get done right and pretty bullet proof. Check all head geometry carefully.
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WI sportmobile
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 29, 2013 1:29 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

1967250s wrote:
Can't you use the plexi plate for the head to cc the piston heads? Or just make a flat plexi plate with a hole and just set it on there? And is that head clearance measured from the edge of the piston or the center? It looked like that one piston had a valve strike. Were the valves checked for sealing? Valve springs checked? Do you have ratio rockers? You might have a bent valve or worn guides. The heads are the biggest problem on these engines. The bottom end is fairly easy to get done right and pretty bullet proof. Check all head geometry carefully.


The heads have new guides, reground valves. The springs and sealing were tested out. Not sure what ratio rockers are, I have the stock t4 1700 rockers.
I am measuring on the side of the dish over the pin across the center line. Yes, that piston does appear to have valve strike but the ding doesn't seem to line up with the valve in relationship to the arrow pointing towards the fly wheel.

Still wondering if I need to add the thickness of the metal gaskets that go between the top of the cylinder and the head to the deck height. Any help would be great.
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73 VW T2 Sportsmobile T4 1800 dual webber ICT's
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old DKP driver
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 29, 2013 4:00 pm    Post subject: head gaskets Reply with quote

You need to delete the head gasket sealing rings and lap the cylinders
into the heads once you have your deck height done on all 4 cylinders.
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WI sportmobile
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 29, 2013 4:14 pm    Post subject: Re: head gaskets Reply with quote

old DKP driver wrote:
You need to delete the head gasket sealing rings and lap the cylinders
into the heads once you have your deck height done on all 4 cylinders.


Are you refering to the tech bullitin from 1990? I read that and thought it only applied to 2000 t4 engines. Not sure how I would lap the the cylinders never heared of that before. Now I'm even more confused.
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WI sportmobile
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 07, 2013 5:44 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I got the long block done!

Here's what I ended up with:
Bore: 90 mm
Stroke: 66 mm
CC chamber: 57 cc
Deck: 0.039"
Ratio: 7.6

I did CC the pistons and the heads. The piston dish is 5cc. The head CC is 52cc. I was wondering about the threaded length of some spark plugs I've seen and the relationship of the chamber. I used Bosch for the measurement.

Box O'lifter cakes, I used the thicker stuff provided with the Cam on the top and Mahle lube on the sides.
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Long block

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Back at the shop with the bus

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WI sportmobile
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 07, 2013 6:14 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Fan shroud blasted and powder coated. The High gloss really brought out some imperfections in the casting but the numbers match my owners manual.

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I was cleaning up the muffler today and found this under the rust.

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I could tell it was a 411 muffler by the orientation of the tail pipe, but I had no idea that it was an original from '72.
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old DKP driver
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 07, 2013 7:05 pm    Post subject: short block done Reply with quote

Martin, Nice job!

P.S. MORE LUBE on all the lifters and cam.
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raygreenwood
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 07, 2013 7:07 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Get rid of that muffler as soon as possible. It is a damper type muffler and was one the most restreictive of them all. It is quiet but runs very hot. Ray
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WI sportmobile
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 07, 2013 7:15 pm    Post subject: Re: short block done Reply with quote

old DKP driver wrote:
Martin, Nice job!

P.S. MORE LUBE on all the lifters and cam.


For sure!! I did use more lube than that. Caked it all around the top and the sides. Just thought it made a nifty lookin photo with them still in the box.
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WI sportmobile
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 07, 2013 7:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

raygreenwood wrote:
Get rid of that muffler as soon as possible. It is a damper type muffler and was one the most restreictive of them all. It is quiet but runs very hot. Ray


Wow, never thought of it as quiet. I'm planing on getting a new Dansk (sp?) one as soon as I can afford it. Most likely next winter.
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WI sportmobile
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 21, 2013 6:45 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

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Thirstytank
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 21, 2013 7:28 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Looks great!!!
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raygreenwood
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 21, 2013 8:25 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

WI sportmobile wrote:
raygreenwood wrote:
Get rid of that muffler as soon as possible. It is a damper type muffler and was one the most restreictive of them all. It is quiet but runs very hot. Ray


Wow, never thought of it as quiet. I'm planing on getting a new Dansk (sp?) one as soon as I can afford it. Most likely next winter.



Quiet is relative. Of the stock exhausts...it is the most quiet....if not...you have exhaust leaks. If you have tine look for an Ernst muffler. Ray
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WI sportmobile
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PostPosted: Sat Apr 27, 2013 6:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Install Pics.

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Those dang Dansk heat risers fit like shit. They had to be removed and just barely fit after the engine was in. The right side riser had to be modified so it would clear the starter. We ground off the weld spots and re welded the bracket to a clamp so it would match up and attach to the breast plate. The angle was way off.

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I was holding my breath win I turned the key.... After a few trys it fired up.

Yahtzee!!! Ran it for 20 min at 2000 rpm and shut it down.

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busdaddy
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PostPosted: Sat Apr 27, 2013 7:04 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

WI sportmobile wrote:
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Caption:
You're not the boss of me! Prepare to be owned!

Nice work and congratulations! WELL DONE! Very Happy
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WI sportmobile
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PostPosted: Sat Apr 27, 2013 7:53 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thank you. There are a few odds and ends that I need to take care of but all and all I'm very happy right now. The satisfaction of that moment was huge. Every baggy of nuts and bolts went back into place. Taking my time six months ago really paid off.
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old DKP driver
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PostPosted: Sat Apr 27, 2013 9:18 pm    Post subject: finISHED ENGINE Reply with quote

Nice to see your grin from You.
Break it in properly Wink
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rustbus
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PostPosted: Sat Apr 27, 2013 9:34 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

WI sportmobile wrote:
Install Pics.



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]


very nice build and install - so clean i love it

i'd love to build a 1700
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WI sportmobile
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 28, 2013 11:23 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

rustbus wrote:

very nice build and install - so clean i love it

i'd love to build a 1700


Thank you, I thought about painting the engine compartment but wanted to keep a little og paint. Also that black undercoating stuff from Ziebart was very hard to remove. It was most likely done 20 to 30 years ago. I would not have gotten down to a good paintable surface. There are dozens of yellow plugs thrugh out the frame with their logo. That Ziebart stuff really preserved the body nicely. It is very solid.
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06 TOY Tacoma TRD

Don't mess with the DNR.
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raygreenwood
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 28, 2013 5:18 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

What you found with the Dansk heat risers...ugly welds....are also common with their type 4 mufflers. All in all...good solid parts ....but very sloopy welds and difficult fit. Ray
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