got a minute for 1st time engine pics ?

[regordracis]

I'm behind in posting in my main thread , it's nothing you haven't seen before anyway , rust in the usual spots , 2 years of welding to finally be road worthy ...
But we finally got it licensed in May ...
... starts "super" easy from cold ... a bit more effort after a long run but not that much more ...
2-plus years of reading this specific forum tells me the carb probably isn't the right one , as is the distributor - but that's they way we got it - and it runs great , except when the inaccurate gas gauge let's you down ...

So here's the engine pics of our 72 Autostick , anxiously
awaiting all comments , especially from fellow AS'ers...

From underneath after oil change and gear oil change and a far amount of degreasing

And exhaust connections cause they don't look right to this noob - wait , that is such a noob thing to say - it's not the exhaust , it's the heater boxes ...... isn't it ?

By the way , my head starts to spin when trying to follow discussions about engine tins and stove pipes and such - so if you need a good laugh today , ask me to point out where that stove pipe is , and if you want to bust a gut , ask me what it does , and tho you can't see me , you'll hear crickets chirping and I'll have this look :
_________________
Roger ... "Lost in the haze of alcohol-soft middle age"

[Cusser]

An automatic.
Heat exchangers not properly installed.
No duckbill on the bottom of the breather tube.
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1970 VW (owned since 1972) and 1971 VW Convertible (owned since 1976), second owner of each. The '71 now has the 1835 engine, swapped from the '70. Second owner of each. 1988 Mazda B2200 truck, 1998 Frontier, 2014 Yukon, 2004 Frontier King Cab. All manual transmission except for the Yukon. http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/album_page.php?pic_id=335294 http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/album_page.php?pic_id=335297

[68IHscout]

Post up the carb and distributor numbers so others can point you in the right direction if needed .

[regordracis]

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Roger ... "Lost in the haze of alcohol-soft middle age"

[Buggeee]

Your pictures look good and the usual suspects are not an issue. Nice assembly.

I connected my heater boxes to the preheater areas on the exhaust with a couple of pipe connectors (which I found in the plumbing isle of Lowes hardware store). This connection is just for hot air blown over the exhaust from the fan shroud, not for exhaust fumes. While important for heating the cabin, and cooling the heads with airflow, it does not affect noise from the exhaust.

The stock air-filter has two vacuum ports that serve different functions. One port has a tube that shares the vacuum situation with your crank case, through the pipe in the top of your oil filler. Here is link to an excellent Wiki article on the history of why that is important to the internal combustion engine:

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Crankcase_ventilation_system

Basically, the slight explosion blow-by that sneaks past your piston rings into the crank case with every firing creates a positive pressure situation inside your case (stuff pushing outward). That pushes oil out of your case anywhere it can go. Your seals are not really designed for this pressure situation, and you will leak. Also, the combustion blow-by has harmful contaminants that will degrade your oil if the fumes stay in there and let them migrate into your oil.

So, the vacuum situation from your air-filter, shared by the tube to the top of your oil filler neck, creates a negative pressure situation in your crank case (stuff pushing inward). This helps keep the oil sealed inside the case, and helps remove the fumes that would contaminate your oil, burning them up in the combustion process. All good stuff.

The "road-draft" tube on these later motors, running down from your oil filler neck to under the car, is not really a road draft tube. That was an old-time way of creating vacuum by air rushing past the bottom of that tube at speed. Now the tube merely functions to allow water vapor to condense in that top part of your oil filler thing and drain harmlessly away as droplets. For this to work, and to keep the system closed in order to maintain vacuum, you need one of these rubber caps on the bottom of your tube.

You can get them from the parts suppliers on the internet but you have to cut the slit that belongs in the pinched tip of it because they forgot that was necessary. After you cut the slit in that you can pinch it with your fingers and it will talk to you like those little rubber coin purses used to. Hello there little rubber thingy.... "Well hello there to you too Buggeee Boo"

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1966 Sportsmobile Camper https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=...mp;start=0
72 Super Duper http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=672387
(adopted out) 61 Turkis Pile https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=728764

[MuzzcoVW]

To add to what hasn't been said yet..get rid of that distributor and find the proper vacuum advance type unit. Your car is another victim of the 009 distributor. I mean, it will run ok, but not anywhere near it's potential especially in around town driving

[Rome]

On this muffler heater "pod", you should be able to rotate and slide it into a better position. The entire pod slides on the muffler pipe. Many times, either on new ones or on older ones, that sliding is not possible because of light rust holding the pod to the pipe, or friction. Pull the black fresh air hose off the pod from the topside of the rear breast plate. Use the wooden end of a hammer handle to tap the pod to loosen it, then move it so that the clamp on the underside bridges the air gap and the pod outlet is in line with the heater box inlet. Apply anti-seize grease to the clamp thread so that it loosens easily in the future. Then reattach the clamp, and the hose on top.

For your other pod, the connector from Buggeee's comment looks like the best alternative.