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Help! GW/H&R lift springs and Burley UCA's
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adv rider
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PostPosted: Thu Nov 08, 2012 12:29 am    Post subject: Help! GW/H&R lift springs and Burley UCA's Reply with quote

I searched and could not find what i needed,so here goes: W ith my recent weekender purchase and the need to use a motorcycle carrier on back to go riding. it was recommended to get the gw lift springs and burly upper control arms and koni shocks. as you know not a cheap set-up. Well i scraped together the $ and finally got the stuff installed by the shop. Well i only drove about 40 miles today-And i HATE the ride! It feels like its rigid. and going to make the van fall apart,when i hit any type of bump/pothole. i can hardly make it sway/move when i stand on rear bumper or in slider opening. Is this normal? I must mention the springs were used gw/h&r lift springs and the rest was new. shocks set to #3 rear #2 front. It still needs alignment but i can't imagine that causing it to be so stiff. Is the weekender to light and the springs for full camper? I am out of money and don't know what to do. I would just change the springs back, but i am not sure if i can use the lift control arms with stock height. i s there a better spring that i should have used? Thanks for the help Sad
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SpeedoJosh
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PostPosted: Thu Nov 08, 2012 12:32 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

How does it feel with the bike on there?
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madspaniard
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PostPosted: Thu Nov 08, 2012 1:01 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

The Burley arms have nothing to do with that. What springs and shocks did you have before? If they were the original stock ones they were probably tired, especially the shocks, so you were used to a soft ride.

You will probably have to do some experimenting with the Koni adjustments. They don't have adjustment numbers, more like turns in or out for soft/hard rebound.

Samba member "1621" has the same GoWesty springs/Koni shocks setup. Contact him to find out how he adjusted his Konis and whether his van rides stiff too.
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insyncro
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PostPosted: Thu Nov 08, 2012 1:27 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Possibly you were sold prototype springs Question
There was a set in the classifieds not too long ago.
I have a set of pre production springs from GW that are night and day different from what is available on the website.
They are not using H&R as a manufacturer any long and have changed the rates a bit as well.
Most complain the GW springs are too mushy...something is up.
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1621
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PostPosted: Thu Nov 08, 2012 4:06 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

First off, the springs are a fair bit stiffer than the stock springs - and if you're replacing tired shocks at the same time you're probably noticing a significant difference over the previous set-up.

That said, are your new shocks bottoming out over bumps and dips? You would know since you'll feel and hear a bang every time you max out that shock, typically the fronts. In this instance, you might consider making some shock extensions in order to give you a couple inches more droop. I found this necessary with the GW/Konis. I copied a design employed by TristarEric on this forum that was cheap and easy to reproduce. Very effective too.

Do you have aftermarket sway bars? The reason I ask is because I mistakenly over-tightened the end links on my front and rear sway bars, effectively increasing the spring rate by requiring both springs to work when a single wheel encountered a bump or dip. That made the ride nearly unbearable until I worked out the issue. The nuts on the end links on aftermarket bars should only be a shade over finger tight. I can't recall if the stock links even allow for that, but I thought I'd ask.

I really know nothing about the Burley arms. I didn't use them, nor have I any experience nor ridden in a van with them. Though if I remember correctly, his arms use polyurethane bushings, no? Occasionally users report increased road feel and vibrations with poly bushings. This has not been my experience on other vehicles, but I also haven't used them with the Vanagon.

Since they're used, check the springs for damage. Check to see that the coils aren't collapsed on one another, and look for defects or anything unusual. Without knowing more about the details it's hard to say. And while the alignment isn't likely to be the root of the issue, I'd have it done in order to rule that out as a possibility.

I do know that it is possible to gain a nice firm (not harsh) ride that doesn't leave you wallowing at every turn and stop with this set-up. Don't get discouraged, just know it will take some tuning and a few minor adjustments before you hit that sweet spot. When you do get it dialed in, you'll be glad you made the investment.
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Christopher Schimke
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PostPosted: Thu Nov 08, 2012 6:57 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I would be willing to bet that the suspension is "topped out". In other words, you have no more downward travel of the wheel. The suspension is completely bound up. I have had several customers with this same issue and it's always worse with the Koni shocks, since they are slightly shorter than stock. And it's always worse on the lightweight vans.

If my hunch is correct, and assuming you keep the GW springs, the only solution is to run longer shocks or upper shock shaft extensions.

If you want help making it right, send me an email.
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j_dirge
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PostPosted: Thu Nov 08, 2012 9:08 am    Post subject: Re: Help ! gw/h&r lift springs and burly uca's Reply with quote

adv rider wrote:
It was recommended to get the gw lift springs and burly upper control arms and koni shocks. as you know not a cheap set-up.

I wonder.. Who recommended this set up for carrying a bike on the rear?

GW springs are known to be soft on the extended end.. firming up as they compress more...

What this means is that with your bike loaded off the rear, the butt will likely sag considerably vs front.

That your current ride quality suffers WITHOUT the bike loaded?
These are two separate issues. Your ride quality with GW lift springs and Koni shocks should be relatively nice, unloaded.. a little firmer than stock, perhaps.. but forgiving.

Let Chris help you sort out the front end.. but then be prepared to do something else for the rear end if you plan to carry that bike more than on rare occasion.
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danfromsyr wrote:
those are straight line runs with light weight race cars for only 1/4mile at a time..
not pushing a loaded brick up a mountain pass with a family of 4+ inside expecting to have an event free vacation..
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adv rider
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PostPosted: Thu Nov 08, 2012 9:27 am    Post subject: harsh ride Reply with quote

Thanks for all the response's ,i will try to answer all:I don't believe it is bottoming out-it's not hardly moving at all. Unless i hit a speed bump at speed, then it rebound so fast it makes a clunk. Since i just purchased van- i don't know of springs,but it had new meyle shocks,uca bushings,ball joints. I plan to align,but i have an assortment of bushings from chris that i need to install first. . i only would on avg. use the motorcycle carrier 1-2 a month, Its definately not a nice ride,feels/sounds like the windows a going to break when you hit bumps/potholes. Chris-yes i agree that i think its topped out possibbly,and i had asked the shop before install about this,because i had read about it.
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Last edited by adv rider on Mon Nov 12, 2012 10:01 pm; edited 2 times in total
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insyncro
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PostPosted: Thu Nov 08, 2012 9:41 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

A clunk....
I have had two 2wd vans through my shop that had GW springs incorrectly installed and not seated in the upper spring rubber, thus maxing the suspension that much more than it should be. They would both clunk.
By using very heavy duty spring compressors, they can be installed with room to adjust there position to seat in both the upper and lower perches properly.

Earlier versions of fancy aftermarket UCAs have been known to make contact with the upper wheel well on full extension, also making a clunk.
Marks on the sheet metal and or on the arms themselves are visible.
My understanding is that the latest and greatest versions do not do this.

Just an idea.
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j_dirge
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PostPosted: Thu Nov 08, 2012 10:03 am    Post subject: Re: harsh ride Reply with quote

adv rider wrote:
If anybody in area wants Burley uca's i will make a super deal on them if you swap them out for me.

Did you buy them new from Burley?.. or are they off the classifeds/used market?

FWIW.. If you keep those lift springs, you will need either his UCAs.. or you'll need ball joint spacers to bring the van back into alignemnt spec.


Sort out the source of the clunk noise is first.. and do not throw away parts til you know whats going on.
Like $$$ flying out the window... otherwise.

Can you get the clunking noise to happen with simialr conditions? i.e. hitting a driveway, or pothole? When does it happen? How big a bump?


If you DO sell those UCAs.. and they are newer versions, you shouldn't have ANY probelm getting a decent price for them.
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danfromsyr wrote:
those are straight line runs with light weight race cars for only 1/4mile at a time..
not pushing a loaded brick up a mountain pass with a family of 4+ inside expecting to have an event free vacation..
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presslab
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PostPosted: Thu Nov 08, 2012 10:23 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I too carry the dirt bike on the back with air bags:
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/484138.jpg

The air bags allow me to adjust the ride when I load the bike up. I have no springs at all in the rear.

Anyway it does sound like your're topped out. Can you measure your fender lip to hub center distance on the four corners? Do this with the tires on the ground, and then do it again after you jack the tire up so it's off the ground. Be sure to jack the van up on the body and not under the control arm.

I suspect doing that will show you where your problem is.
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adv rider
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PostPosted: Thu Nov 08, 2012 7:05 pm    Post subject: gw/h&r springs Reply with quote

I found the source of a noise today-drivers side ball joint is coming apart. almost positive it wasn't like that immediately after uca/spring install,but ?
New MOOGS going in both sides. Talked to Chris and figured it would be wise to extend shocks,or go back to stock height. I like the lifted look,but have no more$$ to spend to make it work.After new ball joint install, I will measure ride height and check shock extension. Picking up monday morn.-hopefully these last long enough to figure out how to get the work done to fix it
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Last edited by adv rider on Sun Nov 11, 2012 11:59 pm; edited 1 time in total
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euro911
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PostPosted: Fri Nov 09, 2012 2:54 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

presslab wrote:
I too carry the dirt bike on the back with air bags:
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/484138.jpg
...

Don't want to hijack, but what brand is your bike rack and which air bags are you running? I want to be able to carry a Yamaha XT200.
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Phishman068
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PostPosted: Fri Nov 09, 2012 6:29 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I would ask the shop owner how he decieved you by saying "he has this setup" on his syncro.
You cannot put Koni's on a syncro, and the springs for a syncro are not only different, they're different rates.

So at best, he probably has Old Man Emu shocks and Gowesty springs, but the springs are dramatically different, and the shocks aren't even the same type.
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adv rider
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PostPosted: Fri Nov 09, 2012 9:09 am    Post subject: gw/h&r springs and konis Reply with quote

Phishman068 wrote:
I would ask the shop owner how he decieved you by saying "he has this setup" on his syncro.
You cannot put Koni's on a syncro, and the springs for a syncro are not only different, they're different rates.

So at best, he probably has Old Man Emu shocks and Gowesty springs, but the springs are dramatically different, and the shocks aren't even the same type.


I agree, I thought of the same after i thought about it. IT Is not a syncro-MY Mistake. I am new to this vanagon stuff so learning a lot.But yes i feel mislead for sure. I just want to get my van back with the new ball joints, and hopefully it doesn't ruin them before i get a chance to get some shock extenders. The biggest kicker about this whole suspension issue is that i paid a lot of hard earned money for this set-up and instal, and it is the first time in my life i have not done my own repair/install work. I just don't have the place to do it,at my current home. Once the shop fixes my suspension issues that i already paid for, I am not returning and doing everything else myself,it's cheaper to rent a garage than pay someone. Except for the alignment which i plan to research before dropping off the van
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Last edited by adv rider on Thu Nov 15, 2012 12:35 am; edited 1 time in total
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PostPosted: Fri Nov 09, 2012 9:10 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

euro911 wrote:
Don't want to hijack, but what brand is your bike rack and which air bags are you running? I want to be able to carry a Yamaha XT200.


http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=513953#6077878
http://www.ultimatemxhauler.com/
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PostPosted: Fri Nov 09, 2012 9:14 am    Post subject: gw/h&r help Reply with quote

OH and i almost forgot Chris @ T3 is amazingly helpful, every shop should have his customer service skills. Talked to me about my issues like i had just spent a ton of dough with him-which i didn't. THANKS Chris!! Very Happy
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PostPosted: Fri Nov 09, 2012 9:55 am    Post subject: Re: Help ! gw/h&r lift springs and burly uca's Reply with quote

adv rider wrote:
I would just change the springs back, but i am not sure if i can use the lift control arms with stock height. i s there a better spring that i should have used? Thanks for the help Sad

PS
ALWAYS ask for your old parts back...
I keep mine, in case a mod does not work out as planned.

Looks like you've have one hard-earned lesson under your belt..
Just beacuse a shop charges you good money for thier work, does not mean they know enough about what they are doing to be charging you full scale.
EVERYon is on a learning curve.

Not that many general mechanics know much about the Vanagon, anymre. The Vanny is old.. There not that many of them.. and anytime you depart from OEM, you HAVE to be ready for things to dissappoint.

Its one thing to have a shop swap in OEM-type parts for worn OEM parts.. but to expect a shop that is not necessarily a specialist in a particular vehicle or a particular aspect of many vehicles (i.e. suspension, exhuast, etc).. to make changes to something as complex as suspension? No thanks.. I'll do the work myslef.

At leas then, no one can be blamed. Wink
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-57 pan f/g buggy with a 67 pancake Type 3 "S"
"Jimi Hendrix owned one. Richard Nixon did not"
-Grand Tour, Season 1, episodes 4 and 5

danfromsyr wrote:
those are straight line runs with light weight race cars for only 1/4mile at a time..
not pushing a loaded brick up a mountain pass with a family of 4+ inside expecting to have an event free vacation..
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K58
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PostPosted: Fri Nov 09, 2012 10:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Return all that high priced crap and get a pair of air shocks with an on board compressor. Install yourself and be done.
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adv rider
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PostPosted: Fri Nov 09, 2012 10:50 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

K58 wrote:
Return all that high priced crap and get a pair of air shocks with an on board compressor. Install yourself and be done.

I would love to return the parts. And just get new OE height springs,and run air shocks. I don't think the shop would do that for me.
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