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Vinzanto Samba Member
Joined: March 22, 2012 Posts: 247 Location: Kansas City
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Posted: Wed Nov 14, 2012 10:44 am Post subject: Cylinders, cylinders, cylinders! |
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So I will be replacing my brake master cylinder, clutch master cylinder, two rear wheel cylinders..and maybe a slave if I can get my hands on one in town.
Should I bleed the whole system then put the new parts on?
Or should I replace the parts then bleed the entire system?
What is the preferred method sambaites? |
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dobryan Samba Member
Joined: March 24, 2006 Posts: 16503 Location: Brookeville, MD
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r39o Samba Polizei
Joined: May 18, 2005 Posts: 9800 Location: San Diego
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Posted: Wed Nov 14, 2012 11:08 am Post subject: |
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Here is what I do for classic cars which basically makes the EXPENSIVE hydraulics last for ever.
As above the idea is to be clean.
But, I go a step further.
This step requires all NEW virgin rubber parts.
Take everything off and leave the metal lines.
Flush the metal lines with alcohol and dry with compressed air.
If you are rebuilding any cylinders, use McKay Silicon Assembly lube.
(Even new parts benefit from being taken apart and inspected and re built first.)
Now with very thing clean clean clean with alcohol, assemble and fill with synthetic fluid.
I have cars assembled over 25 years now with no hydraulic failures.
Be careful some old rubber swells with synthetic fluid, so you need to test a bit first.
This is extreme and some of the cheap aftermarket parts will still fail.
I urge the resleeving with stainless sleeves of the old cylinders sized to use standard modern cups and O rings (if possible.)
Again, this is the extreme - last forever way to overhaul the hydraulics.
DO NOT TO THIS HALF ASSED - It is your life on the line here, do it RIGHT! _________________ "Use the SEARCH, Luke" But first visit the Vanagon FAQ!
1990 Multivan EJ 22, Rancho trans 0.82 4th, Small Car front AC, CLKs w/ 215/65-16, homemade big brakes 303mm, Konis, Recaros, etc....
Click to see my ads for Cup holders, Subaru clutch fix and CLK wheels (no wheels currently) |
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Wildthings Samba Member
Joined: March 13, 2005 Posts: 50338
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Posted: Wed Nov 14, 2012 1:05 pm Post subject: |
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r39o wrote: |
Take everything off and leave the metal lines.
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You obviously don't live in the world of road salts and acid rain. |
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Phishman068 Samba Member
Joined: February 19, 2007 Posts: 1867 Location: Pittsburgh PA (ish)
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Posted: Wed Nov 14, 2012 4:10 pm Post subject: |
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I wouldn't much worry about bleeding it, as what you've just described will certainly loose all the fluid anyway.
Then fill new fluid and bleed at each cylinder not just until clear of bubbles, but until clear fluid comes out.
I like to let them "gravity bleed" a bit first to get clear fluid to each point before i even start bleeding.
I like valvoline synthetic brake fluid and find its very easy to distinguish clean (clear) fluid from old fluid at each bleeding point. |
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Vinzanto Samba Member
Joined: March 22, 2012 Posts: 247 Location: Kansas City
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Posted: Wed Nov 14, 2012 9:35 pm Post subject: |
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Now heres a creative question: if I open all of the bleeder valves and prep them for bleeding can I bleed all four corners at the same time?
Also how many quarts of fluid should I plan on using, I don't want to go out mid-stride and have to purchase more. |
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Wildthings Samba Member
Joined: March 13, 2005 Posts: 50338
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Posted: Wed Nov 14, 2012 10:13 pm Post subject: |
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Vinzanto wrote: |
Now heres a creative question: if I open all of the bleeder valves and prep them for bleeding can I bleed all four corners at the same time?
Also how many quarts of fluid should I plan on using, I don't want to go out mid-stride and have to purchase more. |
I gravity bleed one front and one rear at the same time. To do the final bleed it is one wheel cylinder at a time. |
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r39o Samba Polizei
Joined: May 18, 2005 Posts: 9800 Location: San Diego
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Posted: Wed Nov 14, 2012 11:27 pm Post subject: |
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Wildthings wrote: |
r39o wrote: |
Take everything off and leave the metal lines.
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You obviously don't live in the world of road salts and acid rain. |
YEP. So OK, I will state replace the lines if you need to, but wash out with alcohol.
Wildthings wrote: |
Vinzanto wrote: |
Now heres a creative question: if I open all of the bleeder valves and prep them for bleeding can I bleed all four corners at the same time?
Also how many quarts of fluid should I plan on using, I don't want to go out mid-stride and have to purchase more. |
I gravity bleed one front and one rear at the same time. To do the final bleed it is one wheel cylinder at a time. |
Gravity? Really? A system that is likely empty from taking it apart?
I will have to try that, but I do have my doubts.
Looks like a recipe for a mess...... _________________ "Use the SEARCH, Luke" But first visit the Vanagon FAQ!
1990 Multivan EJ 22, Rancho trans 0.82 4th, Small Car front AC, CLKs w/ 215/65-16, homemade big brakes 303mm, Konis, Recaros, etc....
Click to see my ads for Cup holders, Subaru clutch fix and CLK wheels (no wheels currently) |
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insyncro Banned
Joined: March 07, 2002 Posts: 15086 Location: New York
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Posted: Wed Nov 14, 2012 11:39 pm Post subject: |
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I gravity drain and power bleed.
My approach has always been to start bleeding the wheel furthest from the reservoir and finish with the one closest.
I will try working opposite corners the next time around.
Thanks. |
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Wildthings Samba Member
Joined: March 13, 2005 Posts: 50338
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Posted: Thu Nov 15, 2012 8:52 am Post subject: |
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r39o wrote: |
Looks like a recipe for a mess...... |
It can only be a mess if it works and then you forget to close the bleeder(s) and let the reservoir drain down. If it doesn't work, no harm done. |
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