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morymob Samba Member
Joined: November 09, 2007 Posts: 4683 Location: east-tn
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Posted: Wed Apr 10, 2013 5:29 am Post subject: |
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When ilooked up towards the wiper motor it sure would be a problem solver if that thing could be mounted to the left about a foot. |
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engscott78 Samba Member
Joined: February 22, 2012 Posts: 13 Location: Vacaville, CA
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Posted: Sun Jun 30, 2013 5:52 pm Post subject: |
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Wow, very nice write up.
I stumbled on this page trying to figure out a way to make my A/C work in my '87 after a 2.5 subaru swap. I never thought about doing front A/C. Something I will keep in mind now, with this page bookmarked of course! |
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sarmanx Samba Member
Joined: February 03, 2014 Posts: 1 Location: Cabarete, Dominican Republic
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Posted: Mon Feb 03, 2014 11:30 pm Post subject: Re: DIY Front Air Conditioning: Now Complete! |
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Howesight wrote: |
Well my front AC is now done. It works very well and I am very happy with it. So now I will summarize what I used, what worked and what didn’t work.
1. I used my stock Subaru SVX compressor. It’s a Zexel unit. I have not used the variable-output capability it has, but hope to in future so that the compressor won’t cycle so much. Maybe someone clever with electrics (Crazyvanman?) can help me get that part working later.
2. I used the CCOT (cycling clutch orifice tube) system for robustness and also to allow me to install an auxillary rear evaporator if the front unit fails to adequately cool the rear of my westy.
3. A lesson learned: The accumulator used in a CCOT system is very bulky and if I was not mulling over a rear evaportor being added later, I would have used a TXV (thermal expansion valve) system for tighter packaging. On a dual evaporator system, the secondary evaporator almost always uses a TXV, with the front (main) evaporator using a CCOT approach.
4. I am very pleased with the Nostalgic Air parallel-flow condenser. I got part the 16" by 24" unit. Fits well.
5. I used #12, #8 and # 6 AC hose throughout, no hardline except factory ends. If I did it again, I would consider using aluminum for some of the long runs. I fished the hose through holes I drilled in the chassis bulkheads to keep the hoses up high and out of harm’s way, since this is a Syncro and I do drive through some rough stuff (like sagebrush, rocky areqas, etc.) On a 2WD, I would not go through the chassis bulkheads with the hoses.
6. The evaporator is for an Audi A4. It’s just the right size to fit in the limited space available. I would use it again.
7. The blower fan is from a 1990-1995 Toyota 4runner as is the 4-speed resistor that comes with this unit. (I did re-locate the resistor for packaging reasons.) This blower fan and the installation pulling chilled air from the evaporator instead of blowing through it, was the single most important choice in making this system work. This is a powerful blower.
8. I made a convoluted duct through the Vanagon air distribution box to feed the left side outlet of the two centre outlets I installed in my dash. The right centre duct is fed directly from the plenum I made from fibreglass. If I had to do this again, I would not modify the Vanagon airbox in this way and would use one large duct with a splitter to feed the two centre ducts.
9. I am very happy with fresh-air/recirculation flap system I installed. Keeping the hot air out of the van in summer really depends on this.
10. I never did connect the AC plenum to the Vanagon air box, although this is still possible on my setup. I just can’t imagine needing it. The stock Vanagon air box has always done a great job of defrosting my windows in cool/wet and cold/wet conditions, so I won’t need the dehumidifying function in cool or cold weather.
11. I tried to use finishing parts that either were or looked like they were VW parts. So, I used an extra rear-heater switch I had to hold the blower fan switch and the AC thermostat. I also installed the AC on/off switch on the main heater controls. I got some Audi bits that look like they might be VW bits. Overall, I am happy with this and the function of the various parts.
12. Since my van is a syncro, it already had the heavy duty 450 watt rad fan. It did not, however, have the proper resistor to enable 3 fan speeds. I substituted tha rad fan resistor from the Eurovan.
13. I looked at the wiring diagram for the stock VW AC and essentially replicated that. The stock system has one relay which has two functions, and I used two separate relays to mimic that relay. The Blower fan has its own relay to control fan speed 4 (which is direct connection to 12V). The factory fuse panel allows you to use relay position 5 by adding two wires t the back of the fuse panel, so that part was easy. I did add a separate refrigerant high-pressure switch which switches the rad fan on to medium speed (up from slow speed) when the refrigerant pressure gets to 220 psi. There is also a separate normally-closed relay that disconnects the compressor whenever the rad fan circuit goes to the highewst speed, to reduce condensor heat input into the radiator. This also mimics the VW setup.
14. One complaint: When I switch my AC on, the rad fan comes on at the lowest speed, as expected. My fan, however, is quite noisy, even at low speed. My son's Westy, on low speed, is much quieter. I expect that installing the new fan I just bought will make this quieter.
15. Oh - - I almost forgot to add: I used RedTek as refrigerant, used the Subaru-recommended amount of PAG compressor oil, and added a bit of oil above that to account for the very long hoses in the Vanagon. Except for the compressor, every component in my system was new, so there was no old oil in the system. |
Its great to see someone else is doing the same crazy idea you had in mind and been working on it for while already. I started with the idea of installing an original or aftermarket unit but ended up realizing that retrofitting was my only viable and acceptable option. Here you can follow my work on this but its in spanish on the biggest camper van forum in Spain, http://www.furgovw.org/index.php?topic=223708.0
I'm still working on it but this time I'll finish it for good after a couple babies since I started, so far I'm very satisfied with the work and very expectant for the performance of both evaporators.
Cheers! |
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kjono09 Samba Member
Joined: April 03, 2014 Posts: 191 Location: Seattle, WA
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Posted: Tue Jan 06, 2015 3:59 pm Post subject: |
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amazing _________________ 84 Retro-Westy GW 2.2L (Vincent)
67 Bug 2007cc (WBX in progress) (Davey)
Submariner |
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Howesight Samba Member
Joined: July 02, 2008 Posts: 3274 Location: Vancouver, B.C.
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Posted: Fri Jun 12, 2015 2:59 pm Post subject: |
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TWO YEAR ANNIVERSARY REPORT:
It has now been two years since I cobbled together my DIY front AC. I wanted to give an update on how it has worked and what has happened, so here goes:
1. Vent temps are still in the same range;
2. There are barely-detectable refrigerant oil weeps at a couple of my aluminum-brazed joints.
3. There has been no measurable loss of refrigerant (Red Tek);
4. The system cools the rear passengers of the vehicle quite nicely through the centre dash vents when the dash side vents are partly or fully closed and the evaporator fan is on high.
5. I do have a small water condensation leak in the hose draining water out of the evaporator box. This might, possibly, simply be water sloshing over the edge of the evaporator, but I cannot view the leak area.
6. No parts have failed whatsoever.
What would I do differently?
1. I would make a proper mold for my evaporator box next time and have it vacuum-formed. This would allow me to make it even more compact and contain condensation water better;
2. I still want to make a circuit that will enable me to control the variable-displacement feature on the factory Subaru compressor.
3. I find that the factory rad fan on low speed is quite noisy. At low vehicle speeds, I think it would be possible to use a sail switch to turn off the fan once a certain speed (actually air speed) is reached, both for noise and for power consumption. 80% of my driving mileage is on highways, and it seems to me to be silly to add load to the alternator by requiring it to power the rad fan when ram air is doing all the work the condenser needs. I notice less current and voltage available for charging my house battery when the rad fan is running.
4. I would not clock the windshield wiper motor since the final configuration of parts does not require it.
5. I would use a different method for closing the fresh-air inlet on the factory heater box. Mine uses a cantilevered flap that gets pushed open by the wind unless I use a rubber band on the sliding control knob.
Would I do this again?
Yup. My compressor just died on my Audi, so no cooling joy there. The contrast with the Westy as a result is crazy. Driving the Westy with A/C is a dream - - windows closed, music on, no sweating - - priceless. _________________ '86 Syncro Westy SVX |
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djkeev Samba Moderator
Joined: September 30, 2007 Posts: 32598 Location: Reading Pennsylvania
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Howesight Samba Member
Joined: July 02, 2008 Posts: 3274 Location: Vancouver, B.C.
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Posted: Fri Jun 12, 2015 6:40 pm Post subject: |
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Hey Dave:
I have been thinking very seriously about making a kit. I need to source a good supply of quality Toyota blower fans to make that idea fly, because the aftermarket units are rubbish.
The Behr design uses a large, outdated, inefficient core that you can't source anymore. I tried to use parts that can be readily-sourced, like the evap core found in millions of Audi A4 cars and Passats. Being small, that core allowed me to still have a glove box. _________________ '86 Syncro Westy SVX |
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thummmper Samba Member
Joined: November 25, 2009 Posts: 2015 Location: Meadow Valley, California Republic
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Posted: Thu Jul 30, 2015 11:43 pm Post subject: |
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how totally super cool. nice thinkology |
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allann Samba Member
Joined: August 29, 2015 Posts: 15 Location: Lithuania
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Posted: Thu Oct 29, 2015 10:17 pm Post subject: |
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Helo. The same custom project in my garage. Great results with your a/c. Nice to see that is possible. Mine was started in 2012. A/C dash part was done 50%. System will be based on audi c4 manual a/c. Becouse my project is remake of everything, i left a/c for the future . Now all power is on fitting ASV 1.9 TDI. Right now i am working for to fit all hoses(coolin, power stearing and a/c). Thats how i find your project. My work is there http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=6...highlight=
One thing i want to ask. How far can orifice tube can be placed from evaporator. On audi c4 it is very close to evaporator? You have fited it in distance. Me too having problem in placing orifice tube for to have better acses in the future. _________________ Sorry for my English, hope You will understand me |
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Howesight Samba Member
Joined: July 02, 2008 Posts: 3274 Location: Vancouver, B.C.
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Posted: Fri Oct 30, 2015 11:02 am Post subject: |
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Allann:
Sveikas!
I spoke to a local AC technician who builds custom systems for hot rods, historic sports cars (old Ferrari's and Lamborghini's, for example) and is very knowledgeable. He said that I could place the orifice tube as much as 500 mm or 600mm away if I wanted to, without affecting performance. The important thing is that the hardline (aluminum) pipes between the orifice tube and the evaporator must be covered with insulating cork-tape:
The pictures in my thread above don't show exactly where I located the orifice tube. The pictures below show the location:
Sėkmės! _________________ '86 Syncro Westy SVX |
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Vanagon Nut Samba Member
Joined: February 08, 2008 Posts: 10371 Location: Sunshine Coast B.C.
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Posted: Fri Oct 30, 2015 12:19 pm Post subject: |
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Howesight wrote: |
....
Spazz Brazer Succeeds Despite Himself:
So - - my "Johnson Braze-All" aluminum brazing rods came in and after a couple brazing fails that necessitated me going out to get replacement fittings for the two I destroyed, I now know the secret to aluminum brazing. Note that this only requires a standard propane torch - -no MAPP gas or oxy-acetylene needed.
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I see this is an old post and that you've succeeded with the brazing but if this is of any use....
I have used a stove element to aid in heating larger brass parts for brazing. The element can also provide a reasonably good surface for work. And I doubt it would apply here, but I've used Borax + water solution as a flux. It leaves a hard shell but that can be removed if piece set in acid/water solution. Borax is cheap as borscht and reliable.
Gravity can help with flow of fill but as you noted, heating the part you want the filler to go into is best; the heat pulls the filler in. If adding flux solution to joint (as opposed to flux on rod) "warm" it up allowing it to turn to snow like appearance. Also, snipping of a bit of the filler and tucking it into joint along with flux can make brazing the parts much easier. I have done this with brass braces (musical instruments) using "silver solder" as filler.
(can't recall alloy of filler)
But then aluminum is very different and none of the above may apply.
Neil.
edited _________________ 1981 Westy DIY 15º ABA
1988 West DIY 50º ABA
VE7TBN |
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Howesight Samba Member
Joined: July 02, 2008 Posts: 3274 Location: Vancouver, B.C.
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Posted: Fri Oct 30, 2015 3:58 pm Post subject: |
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Thanks, Neil. Aluminum is, indeed, a different animal. I found that the ability to immediately stop applying heat quickly to be almost as important as applying the heat, so I don't think I would be able to use the stove element trick.
The colour change in the flame as the aluminum comes up to the brazing temp (quite a noticeable change, in fact) is the best temp indicator, in my experience. Anyone doing this should have some junk fittings on hand for a few practice attempts. _________________ '86 Syncro Westy SVX |
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Vanagon Nut Samba Member
Joined: February 08, 2008 Posts: 10371 Location: Sunshine Coast B.C.
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Posted: Fri Oct 30, 2015 5:30 pm Post subject: |
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you're welcome howesound
good heat tip.
Nice to know of alternatives for joining
Aluminum.
Your build thread is adventurous but I'm
sure you'll complete it!
Neil. _________________ 1981 Westy DIY 15º ABA
1988 West DIY 50º ABA
VE7TBN |
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allann Samba Member
Joined: August 29, 2015 Posts: 15 Location: Lithuania
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Posted: Sat Oct 31, 2015 7:16 am Post subject: |
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Howesight wrote: |
Allann:
Sveikas!
I spoke to a local AC technician who builds custom systems for hot rods, historic sports cars (old Ferrari's and Lamborghini's, for example) and is very knowledgeable. He said that I could place the orifice tube as much as 500 mm or 600mm away if I wanted to, without affecting performance. The important thing is that the hardline (aluminum) pipes between the orifice tube and the evaporator must be covered with insulating cork-tape:
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Sveikas, sveikas
Ačiū... Oh... Sorry, thanks for the answer. My local AC technicians, think I'm crazy, thinking it is possible to make my own system. Its close to impossible but for me, close to, means it is possible for sure and one more thing... why brazing? welding is not acceptable ? where is the secret? _________________ Sorry for my English, hope You will understand me |
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iulian Samba Member
Joined: December 05, 2015 Posts: 33 Location: Bucharest, Romania
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Posted: Sat Jul 09, 2016 6:54 am Post subject: Re: DIY Front Air Conditioning |
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Hi everyone,
I thought adding my own experience on DIY front AC install. My main goals with this project apart obviously from decent cooling inside, was to keep the stock look and function of the dash, meaning adding a cooling function to original heater box.
I investigated first the solution with a separate evaporator unit behind the glove box but I couldn’t find a stock one to fit in that space and I lack those skills to manufacture a custom evap plenum
I bought a panel van heater box to work on(I am lucky, there are plenty of people around here dealing with Vanagon used parts, it was easy and relatively inexpensive to get one, later on why choosing one from a panel van). Initial thought was to find an evaporator that could fit inside the box in between the fan and the heater core, had no luck finding one, the space inside doesn’t allow that.
Then, a friend of mine told me about this supplier, Diavia.it, an Italian company dealing with hvac spares now owned by Webasto and found this evap unit on their site http://www.diavia.it/eng_spares.php?categoria=97&sottocategoria=171&marchio=0&id=3211 After measuring inside the heater box and comparing the dimensions specified on their site a new idea came, it seemed possible to throw away the Vanagon fan and make room on the intake side of the heater box in order to accommodate the complete Diavia evap unit. Cooling capacity 4kw(13600 BTU/hour) seemed also good, so I ordered one, it looks like this
The integrated fan has a good flow, 450 m3/h on the spec(I couldn't find the specs for the original Vanagon one for comparison) it has three speeds and built in resistor so it matches exactly Vanagon wiring. Power consumption is lower than specification, I measured 6,5 amps on the 3rd speed. The fan is branded Spal, it's a brand with good reputation on the automotive industry (Spal is also an Italian company)
I started to cut in the fan squirell cage with the main goal of reaching the same height of the original box as the front of the heater sits very close under the windscreen lower crossmember. Also I had to be carefull not to get into the heater core space and not to cut in the upper heater section where air distribution to windscreen and dash are handled. Here are some pictures of the lower section of the box.
The Diavia unit fits very tight inside. I kept the upper part of the squirrel cage to act as a strap to the Diavia unit, and altered a bit its shape with a heat gun to get nicely around the new fan cage. By this the Diavia unit is tightly secured, no risk to slide up, down or sideways into the heater box. I didn’t need to use any bolt or bracket to secure the evap unit to the heater box. Need to mention that the evap unit is fitted upside down because I wanted the hose connections on the right hand side. The condense water drain nipples are now facing upwards and are useless in this new config so I cut and plugged them. Some length and height adjustment were needed on the Diavia box as well but no major complications. Here is some pics with the Diavia unit fitted.
The condense water will now be pouring inside, on the bottom of the heater box, that was the reason I chose a panel van heater box, they(obviously) don't have the passenger vent flaps so the bottom is plain solid. On a normal heater box, the bottom flaps and rod have to be removed and holes plugged, a bit more labor intensive(the flaps are spot welded in three points, those have to be ground off before the rod can slide sideways). To be on the safe side I sealed with silicone around the bottom part of the box inside. For the drainage system, I drilled two side 10mm holes and installed two nipples on the bottom, here are pictures with the schematic and the glued nipples. Not in the pictures, 6mm hose on the box nipples, 8 mm from the T nipple to outside of the van via a hole drilled on the passenger vent duct and another one on the firewall.
On the (now) condense water tray I used this felt for antisplah protection( it is used as dust filter on commercial buildings ac system, they are replaced as part of the annual maintenance program, I got an used one). I used it also on the front air intake to protect the new fans from dust and insects, there is little restriction of air flow and it is easy washable, below some pics. Since is rather thick(~2cm), for the heater bottom install I sliced in two.
In order to finish the air intake to the new fans I bought two 100mm diam 90* ventilation ducts from a hardware store, and shape them to fit on the upper part of the box in order to direct the intake air to the fans, see pics below.They are glued to the box but not to the fans to be able to remove the upper section of the box in case of repairs, heater core replacement, etc. Around the fan the intake is sealed with self adhesive window insulation sponge. Here is a pic with the final cut on the upper heater box and with the intake fitted
The forced air ventilation flaps(approx half of initial size left each side) are glued in position so that all intake air goes through the fans. I thought I would miss the draught air at highway speed and have to use the fan from now on, but I got a nice surprise on testing after install, there is plenty of draught air coming through the Diavia evap unit even at low speed
When testing the fit of the unit I found there was a clearance issue of the right hand side fan with the wiper mechanism, I had to flatten a bit the shape of the fan with the heat gun and shave off a plastic tab, also change a bit the position of expansion valve capillary tube
As the Diavia evap doesn't come with any control devices I installed a 4 Celsius thermostat(non adjustable) for evap icing protection, I bolt it inside the heater box on the left hand side, plenty of room there , and inserted the capillary tube in the evap, few pics below.
Wiring is almost std, the only diff. is that I didn't install an ambient temp sensor, the compressor is cycling together with the 1st stage rad fan via evap thermostat. The compressor is wired via a trinary switch for low/high refrig. pressure protection which also give a signal to 2nd stage rad fan. Each of the three circuits(compressor, 1st stage and 2nd stage rad fan) is protected with relay. Position 5 on the fuse box for 2nd stage relay and use conector H pins(std), 6 for compressor relay and use conector L pins(this is std for dual horns but I know I will never want that option) Compressor has a separate fuse(before trinary switch), rad fan wiring is protected by fuse no.1 on the panel. Evap fan wiring, as said before, matches exactly Vanagon switch wiring. I sealed with silicone the three fan connectors to protect from oxidation as they are exposed now to fresh air
AC switch: as I didn't want to alter the stock look of the dash, I used the lower vent lever(not any longer in use since there are no passenger vent flaps), to actuate a micro-switch fitted inside the dash. It's "on" when I turn the lever to the left. By coincidence, the graphics on the panel for the lower lever show an increase in cold air towards left(blue triangle) Here is a pic with the "no AC switch dash"
I replaced the original rad fan resistor(one speed) with an Eurovan two-speed one, found also a matching connector for it from a Golf mk3 wiring
Hoses, condenser, dryer installation I won't detail here, was covered very well in other posts, just a pic and a few comments on the condenser: 14x22 on the spec, 14x23 out of the box plus another inch on the side fitting frames. Doable but challenging to fit, the good thing is that is sitting tight to the radiator, good air flow through. The performance of it is awesome, hot on the top, barely feeling warm on the bottom
A pic with the finished heater box and the install under dash. It was a bit complicated to fit in position due to the routing of the refrig. hoses, drainage hose, and the clearance of fan and hoses to the wipers mechanism. I left the refrig hoses half a meter longer under the van in order to have room to maneuver the unit on the install or future removal. I had to be careful not to damage the drainage system which after install goes nicely inside the cross ventilation duct.
AC compressor was already on the engine since the tdi conversion 5 yrs ago, it's a Sanden SD7H15
Refrigerant fill: I went by the gauges and an AC chart ending up on 1350g after 5-6 attempts with higher and lower qty. At ambient temp of 26C(77F), low pressure gauge was showing 2,7 bar(~40psi), high pressure gauge 15bar(~220psi). Temp at driver dash vent 6C(43F). Oil qty 240g
Now, it's been three months since I have the unit installed and I drove the van some 2000km at temperatures ranging from 25 to 40 C(77-104F). Firstly, the fan has a better flow in comparison to the stock one(or at least the one I had), noise level is more or less the same. Also, as mention earlier, it allows a good amount of draught air even at low speeds it saves on the fan when driving outside the city. As being a manual AC system, I have to play with the fan speed depending on outside/inside temps and van speed.
Under 30C(86F) it cools the cabin in few min. On this range is more useful for humidity than for heat. After 20 min-half hour I can hear the compressor/rad fan starting to cycle, sometimes every 5 sec even on 3rd fan speed because of the evap thermostat. At this point it also gets quite cold inside and sometimes I switch off the AC.
Between 30-35C(86-95F) the cooling performance is lower in the beginning, the dash vent temp is higher in the first 10-15 min(I didn't measure it's only by the feel) The cab cools in 30-45min and than it maintains pretty good by playing with the fan speed. Compressor cycling doesn’t occur so often, it’s probably every 10-15 min I hear it
Above 35C a cab recirculation option would have been great, it gets longer times to cool down the cab. Even if I keep the fan only on 3rd speed, it doesn’t come to that point were I should feel the need to maintain the temp, especially when closer to 40C outside . What I do is to direct dash vent to my face to have cold air feel, same for the feet, and that works quite good for me. Compressor doesn’t cycle anymore, in city traffic 2nd stage rad fan kicks in and stays there all the time, it only goes out after a 10-15 min driving at higher speeds outside the city
I can’t tell about the temp comfort in the rear passenger area, I had no one yet there to tell
Regarding fast compressor cycling at low outside temps: I suppose the temp exchange is not fast enough after the cab has cooled and when outside temp is lower, the evap is icing. I can't tell such fast cycling is normal or not(I can only guess the thermostat is too sensitive), I found it annoying and solved it by replacing compressor relay with an adjustable delay-off relay (Hella, p/no. 5HE996152131) which I set at 15sec. I checked with the gauges and there is no abnormal drop/increase in pressure and the air flow at the vents is the same. An adjustable evap thermostat might have done the same job, but I can't tell for sure.
Bottom line, I am pretty satisfied with the set-up, especially that I reached my main goals: dash stock look/function, fresh air intake, decent cooling.
The project took me approx two months, over the winter, 1-2 hours/day, but there were days I didn’t touch it. I took my time to think and choose what I thought is the best alternative at every stage, and did everything in incremental steps. I am no AC specialist, just familiar with the basics of it, no in depth knowledge or experience. I was lucky enough to have the spare heater box to work on and a friend van with the dash out for testing the fit, so I could use my van during this time. The final install of the heater/evap unit, hoses, condenser etc.. took two days and I had two friends helping me. Too early now to tell if I would have done things differently had I started all over
Cost: approx. 1100 €, whereof 250 on the Diavia evap unit, 550 on the condenser, hoses and fittings(same system as Eaton EZ clip but different supplier), 100 on a new heater core and 200 on refrig. fill and miscellaneous
Sorry for the length of the post
Cheers // Iulian
Last edited by iulian on Mon Jul 11, 2016 1:58 am; edited 1 time in total |
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Steve M. Samba Member
Joined: July 30, 2013 Posts: 6829 Location: Fort Lauderdale, Fl.
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Posted: Sat Jul 09, 2016 9:13 am Post subject: Re: DIY Front Air Conditioning |
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Julian, very good project and well executed! Thanks for the write-up and details in pictures and all the good stuff. I might be dupilcating your efforts sometime soon! |
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iulian Samba Member
Joined: December 05, 2015 Posts: 33 Location: Bucharest, Romania
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Posted: Sat Jul 09, 2016 11:57 pm Post subject: Re: DIY Front Air Conditioning |
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Thanks Steve, good luck! I would happily help in case you stumble across some details I missed to cover here |
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djkeev Samba Moderator
Joined: September 30, 2007 Posts: 32598 Location: Reading Pennsylvania
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Zeitgeist 13 Samba Member
Joined: March 05, 2009 Posts: 12115 Location: Port Manteau
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Posted: Sun Jul 10, 2016 8:55 am Post subject: Re: DIY Front Air Conditioning |
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Absolutely brilliant. _________________ Casey--
'89 Bluestar ALH w/12mm Waldo pump, PP764 and GT2052
'01 Weekender --> full camper
y u rune klassik? |
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djkeev Samba Moderator
Joined: September 30, 2007 Posts: 32598 Location: Reading Pennsylvania
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