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Odyssey PC 1200 Battery Won't fit ! What gives...
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pete000
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 30, 2009 10:04 pm    Post subject: Odyssey PC 1200 Battery Won't fit ! What gives... Reply with quote

I wanted to go with a sealed high performance battery to support my new audio system and heard the Odyssey battery is a good choice.

I looked up the battery model recommended to use in the Vanagon on the Odyssey web site and it calls for the PC 1200.

I then found one for a fair price and mail ordered one.

Went to install it yesterday and discovered it is way too tall. The posts will not allow for the hinged cover behind the seat to close. I think the seat would even hit hit posts on this thing. The Die Hard I currently have bairly fits flush to the lid.

I do see the actual battery measures the proper height but then adds the posts making it over an inch too tall. I would rather not use screw on type clamps either.

I tried laying it on its side but that will reverse the terminals and the positive lead is too short to reach over.

Looks like it is going to be returned. What a dissapointment.

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1621
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 30, 2009 10:29 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Don't return it! Simply unscrew the terminals and use a stainless M6 bolt to make your connections. I've also got my Odysseys on their sides if that makes it any easier for you. It appears you have the battery with the metal jacket, which means the positive is on the left side (also visible in the picture). The same battery is available with the terminals reversed if it makes the wire run any simpler.

I use one of the metal jacketed versions for my starting battery (I think they have the MJT added to their name) because it makes the wiring easier on that side. I use the standard PC1200 for my auxiliary again due to the location of the terminals. My batteries are on their sides with the terminals facing the front of the vehicle. It's been a great set-up.

If you're opposed to cutting the stock vehicle connection terminals and replacing with ring terminals (assuming you're intending to use this as starting battery), then yeah I guess you should send it back and get another DieHard. But consider it first, as these are really good batteries.

Check these pictures:

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Last edited by 1621 on Mon Mar 30, 2009 10:54 pm; edited 1 time in total
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pete000
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 30, 2009 10:46 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Unfortunatly I need a post type mount for my aplication. Event the eyelet type connectors for the large guage wire I am running would sit too high.

I think its kind of lame that Odyssey does not mention that you will have to alter the type of connector the vehicle comes with in order to install their product.
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1621
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 30, 2009 11:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

pete000 wrote:
Unfortunatly I need a post type mount for my aplication. Event the eyelet type connectors for the large guage wire I am running would sit too high.

I think its kind of lame that Odyssey does not mention that you will have to alter the type of connector the vehicle comes with in order to install their product.


I'm not trying to defend Odyssey, but it's really rather lame the Vanagon battery boxes are so damn small.

Sorry to hear it won't work out for you.
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Dogpilot
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 30, 2009 11:07 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

You can also just make buss bars that bolt to the battery and then you bolt you wires to it. This allows you to bolt a section of flat bar stock that you drill a hole through and bolt to the battery, then you can bend it down as it passes the edge of the battery and then run a bolt & nut arrangement to capture you large wire and eye.

This is how I packed mine in to keep it from rattling around:

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Typhon2222
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 21, 2012 10:01 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Folks, I AM a mechanical idiot. Hoping someone can give me some tips.

Our first Odyssey 1200 was installed for us by the gents at the BusLab in Berkeley. It's finally died, and I managed to buy another one online. It's sitting in my living room right now, and I can't figure out how to get those big brass terminal posts off. I think they're called SAE posts? Anyway, I've tried using pliers, but they just won't budge.

They look very like the ones in the OP. The only difference I can see is that on that one, the negative post has one thicker rough band around it for traction, and the positive one has two thinner bands. Whereas on the one sitting in front of me, the posts look identical: each has a single thicker band.
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Type17
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PostPosted: Thu Nov 22, 2012 12:47 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Typhon2222 wrote:
Folks, I AM a mechanical idiot. Hoping someone can give me some tips.

Our first Odyssey 1200 was installed for us by the gents at the BusLab in Berkeley. It's finally died, and I managed to buy another one online. It's sitting in my living room right now, and I can't figure out how to get those big brass terminal posts off. I think they're called SAE posts? Anyway, I've tried using pliers, but they just won't budge.

They look very like the ones in the OP. The only difference I can see is that on that one, the negative post has one thicker rough band around it for traction, and the positive one has two thinner bands. Whereas on the one sitting in front of me, the posts look identical: each has a single thicker band.


the posts should be held in with a hex socket head screw. an m5 or m4 hex key should get them out.
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Typhon2222
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PostPosted: Thu Nov 22, 2012 1:52 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Type17 wrote:
Typhon2222 wrote:
Folks, I AM a mechanical idiot. Hoping someone can give me some tips.

Our first Odyssey 1200 was installed for us by the gents at the BusLab in Berkeley. It's finally died, and I managed to buy another one online. It's sitting in my living room right now, and I can't figure out how to get those big brass terminal posts off. I think they're called SAE posts? Anyway, I've tried using pliers, but they just won't budge.

They look very like the ones in the OP. The only difference I can see is that on that one, the negative post has one thicker rough band around it for traction, and the positive one has two thinner bands. Whereas on the one sitting in front of me, the posts look identical: each has a single thicker band.


the posts should be held in with a hex socket head screw. an m5 or m4 hex key should get them out.


Oh awesome, thanks! Embarassed Razz Saved by a gent from the Buslab. Jamil, could I beg you to tell Steve and Marco that our baby survived shipment to Bremerhaven and a 4,500-mile trip through Europe just fine? And tell Marco that we had absolutely no problem getting the "Green-4" environment sticker allowing us to drive in restricted downtown areas in Germany -- he will appreciate it. Cool
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joetiger Premium Member
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PostPosted: Thu Nov 22, 2012 8:00 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Typhon2222 wrote:


Oh awesome, thanks! Embarassed Razz Saved by a gent from the Buslab. Jamil, could I beg you to tell Steve and Marco that our baby survived shipment to Bremerhaven and a 4,500-mile trip through Europe just fine? And tell Marco that we had absolutely no problem getting the "Green-4" environment sticker allowing us to drive in restricted downtown areas in Germany -- he will appreciate it. Cool


4500 mile trip through Europe? Photos please!
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Typhon2222
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 27, 2012 11:45 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Type17 wrote:
the posts should be held in with a hex socket head screw. an m5 or m4 hex key should get them out.


Worked like a charm. :up:

Now I just have to find some M6 bolts to replace them.... Do they need to be stainless steel? Or would zinc ones work too?
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thatvwbusguy
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 28, 2012 1:38 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Stainless would be best and shouldn't be too difficult to find, but you can go with zinc plated or plain steel as long as you remember to put a thin coating of dielectric grease or anti-seize on the threads so you can remove the bolts in the future for any maintenance.
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 28, 2012 1:43 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

thatvwbusguy wrote:
Stainless would be best and shouldn't be too difficult to find, but you can go with zinc plated or plain steel as long as you remember to put a thin coating of dielectric grease or anti-seize on the threads so you can remove the bolts in the future for any maintenance.


Ah, gotcha, thanks! That helps a lot.
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