Removing rear heater for Subaru conversion

[yycwesty]

So I want to remove my rear heater as the westy is parked over the winter and I could use the space..Have a 2.5 subie so have been told to loop the line..Can I use any kind of metals for my pieces (2, 90 degrees pieces with small section of tubing in between). Just concerned as to if any metals types of metals will ( i.e stainless vs brass etc) cause any problems with antifreeze.

Lastly

Anyone know what the ID for the rear heater hose is and what would be the best kind of clamps to use

Thanks in advance
Al

[Ahwahnee]

Is this a permanent removal -- if so you might consider just replacing the 2 Tees that feed the heater with a couple of straight 5/8" couplings.

Like this but possibly available at your local Ace.

To directly answer your question -- my recollection is the fittings on the heater are a tight 1/2".

Here are the clamps I like -- others have different opinions.

Seems to me like a 'loop' there will rob your front heater of a lot of heat... but I don't know Subies and anyway, sounds like heat isn;t going to be important since you park it all winter.

[rubbachicken]

home depot have them, they have 2 types, both brass, if you are a cheapscate like me, they do the same style connector as in the amazon link above for PEX pipe, which is less than $2, they have the same for regular pipe for over $3, there is more brass in the expensive one, i've used the PEX one's without an issue
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[SCM]

I'm just relaying something I read on another recent thread - I really have no idea if it's true; looping the rr heater coolant hoses causes hot coolant to be recirculated back to the engine instead of cool. It may be better to plug them instead of loop 'em.

That said. The PO of my van looped them (connected the two hoses together with a straight section of barbed fitting) and I've seen no issues thus far. My temp needle was always right on the LED with the 2.1 and now just a bit toward the top of the LED with my 2.3.
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'91 Westfalia GL Automatic (GTA "Turbo" Rebuild w/Peloquin) and 2.3L GoWesty Engine

[ftp2leta]

Be careful here, it all depend on HOW the coolant system was done.
On a Subaru the t-stat need feedback from the heating line.
So you need some kind of bypass somewhere meaning you ALWAYS need circulation unless you have a bypass.

Ben
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[insyncro]

Just as Benny has noted, be careful as some Subarus prefer to have a proper bypass.

Ditch those plastic connectors....very failure prone.
RMW has nice upgraded parts to replace them with.

http://www.rockymountainwesty.com/5_8_x_5_8_x_1_2_Tee_p/84543.htm

[yycwesty]

Thanks for the link syncro..will order those parts..Ben I have chatted with you via email and agree that looping the system is the correct way to go. Would you agree that the fittings I should buy should be 1/2"

Al

[Bassyaks]

Just use copper pipe it works perfectly and will withstand anything your van can throw at it, don't waste your time with plastic that could crack.
I keep a assembled bypass in the van at all times in case I pop a heater core
I used 3 inches of 1/2" copper tubing, and 2 90degrees soldered together and wa la

[GrindGarage]

What cooling system are you going to run?
I have mine setup to smallcars specs and only run front heater core without the tee for rear heater core. Been doing this in 0-100 deg F temps without issue.
_________________
-cliff

91 Vanagon AUTO
97 Single Port EJ22 all smallcar.com

[yycwesty]

I plan on just taking out the rear heater completely. Hans from Vanaru and Ben both state the subaru cooling should be looped instead of dead ended. So will just cut the lines inside the rear seat, take out the heater, put a 90 on both lines coming into the rear seat and join the two lines with some of the extra tubing

Al