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torchmonkey Samba Member
Joined: June 16, 2012 Posts: 248 Location: Philly
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Posted: Sat Dec 01, 2012 12:48 pm Post subject: What is THIS? |
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I noticed that my dual battery wiring looked all rigged, so I started poking around the van to try and figure it out before installing the missing under seat relay. I found this in the cabinet, any ideas?
EDIT: OK it's a battery isolator?
The tag at the bottom reads: Leisure Components Cerritos, CA
Last edited by torchmonkey on Sat Dec 01, 2012 12:51 pm; edited 2 times in total |
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insyncro Banned
Joined: March 07, 2002 Posts: 15086 Location: New York
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Posted: Sat Dec 01, 2012 12:50 pm Post subject: |
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A battery isolator |
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torchmonkey Samba Member
Joined: June 16, 2012 Posts: 248 Location: Philly
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Posted: Sat Dec 01, 2012 12:52 pm Post subject: |
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I'm guessing it works the same as a relay? |
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torchmonkey Samba Member
Joined: June 16, 2012 Posts: 248 Location: Philly
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Posted: Sat Dec 01, 2012 1:54 pm Post subject: |
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Totally confused. Elec. is not my strong suit.
As the van is wired now I can disconnect either battery and am still able to start the vehicle and run all elec. lights, water pump, radio. I'd like to be able to run the stereo, sink, lights, etc... off the aux batt. Should I just ditch the isolator and replace with the dual batt. relay? I searched and all the isolators i saw for Vanagons had four posts, starting to get the feeling this isolator install was a hack job. |
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specialev Samba Member
Joined: March 25, 2011 Posts: 281 Location: Mukilteo WA
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Posted: Sat Dec 01, 2012 2:04 pm Post subject: |
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I reckon the blue wire is the trigger wire. It's going to detect current from the alternator (or from the ignition key-on circuit) making the solenoid switch over so both batteries are connected.
If the car will start with either one you might due a continutity check across the two poles (with red wires) on the isolator with key on and key off. Isolators are sometimes wired to isolate batteries only with key off in lieu of with the motor not-running (sounds like you have the former set up). If you have continuity key on (motor off) you will confirm that. |
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Ahwahnee Samba Member
Joined: June 05, 2010 Posts: 9797 Location: Mt Lemmon, AZ
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Posted: Sat Dec 01, 2012 3:17 pm Post subject: |
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Since you have the manufacturer you may be able to Google up the instructions, else contact them directly.
I use a battery isolator -- sort of old school and probably not the most efficient way but I put it in 20+ years ago and have no trouble with it through the years. |
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crazyvwvanman Samba Member
Joined: January 28, 2008 Posts: 9923 Location: Orbiting San Diego
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Posted: Sat Dec 01, 2012 3:34 pm Post subject: |
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It is a diode isolator, nothing like a relay. I would normally remove it, smash it to bits with a hammer, and install a charging relay instead. Since it appears to be installed in a cabinet I would want to figure out how it is setup before doing anything. I suspect it is installed incorrectly. They are normally installed in the engine compartment, between the alternator and the main starting battery. They have been around a long time. I've used them, they have issues and complications and are usually far from the right device for the job these days.
Mark
torchmonkey wrote: |
Totally confused. Elec. is not my strong suit.
As the van is wired now I can disconnect either battery and am still able to start the vehicle and run all elec. lights, water pump, radio. I'd like to be able to run the stereo, sink, lights, etc... off the aux batt. Should I just ditch the isolator and replace with the dual batt. relay? I searched and all the isolators i saw for Vanagons had four posts, starting to get the feeling this isolator install was a hack job. |
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Syncroincity Samba Member
Joined: April 15, 2007 Posts: 1557 Location: New York City
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Posted: Sat Dec 01, 2012 5:43 pm Post subject: |
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^^ This +1. Those were designed for big RVs, with huge, multiple batteries, and it's not an efficient device, that's why it has those big cooling fins, you're using a lot of electricity to heat up a large set of diodes (electric one-way valves) to keep the batteries isolated from each other.
A better device is a battery separator, which is a microprocessor-conrtrolled relay; it closes the relay to charge both batteries when the alternator charging voltage kicks in, then opens the relay when you shut the engine off.
The Sure-Power #1314
http://www.rvpartscenter.com/ProductDetail.asp?PID=31106&SID=20&DID=131&CID=395 _________________ '86 Syncro CHC Top AAZ Turbodiesel
'04 Passat Variant 4Mo 5MT
Vanagon Build: http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=466866&highlight= |
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Love My Westy Samba Member
Joined: August 08, 2007 Posts: 1837
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Posted: Sat Dec 01, 2012 9:56 pm Post subject: |
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Syncroincity wrote: |
^^ This +1. Those were designed for big RVs, with huge, multiple batteries, and it's not an efficient device, that's why it has those big cooling fins, you're using a lot of electricity to heat up a large set of diodes (electric one-way valves) to keep the batteries isolated from each other.
A better device is a battery separator, which is a microprocessor-conrtrolled relay; it closes the relay to charge both batteries when the alternator charging voltage kicks in, then opens the relay when you shut the engine off.
The Sure-Power #1314
http://www.rvpartscenter.com/ProductDetail.asp?PID=31106&SID=20&DID=131&CID=395 |
My '86 Weekender (Basic Camper) had the Aux Battery installed at the factory for the electric Dometic fridge. The isolator was a small cube like thing, about 1" cubed, that failed somewhere along the line. I replaced it with a battery isolator that never worked well, similar to the OP's. I just ripped it out. Is this battery separator better than a big silver relay or a Yandina? I'm wondering what to do next. Right now the two batteries are just hooked together in parallel. |
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Syncroincity Samba Member
Joined: April 15, 2007 Posts: 1557 Location: New York City
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Posted: Sat Dec 01, 2012 10:27 pm Post subject: |
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Love My Westy wrote: |
My '86 Weekender (Basic Camper) had the Aux Battery installed at the factory for the electric Dometic fridge. The isolator was a small cube like thing, about 1" cubed, that failed somewhere along the line. I replaced it with a battery isolator that never worked well, similar to the OP's. I just ripped it out. Is this battery separator better than a big silver relay or a Yandina? I'm wondering what to do next. Right now the two batteries are just hooked together in parallel. |
Your original stock separator was just a regular Bosch relay, triggered by the alternator charge light wire. Same basic principle with the Sure Power, except it has a little lizard brain that watches voltage levels, and it also provides connectors for a button you can hook up to do an emergency jump-start with both batteries if your start battery is low.
Or you can just re-install a relay, it gets the job done. _________________ '86 Syncro CHC Top AAZ Turbodiesel
'04 Passat Variant 4Mo 5MT
Vanagon Build: http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=466866&highlight= |
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riceye Samba Member
Joined: March 09, 2006 Posts: 1661 Location: Caledonia, WI
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Posted: Sat Dec 01, 2012 10:42 pm Post subject: |
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Yandina 100, and the #3 fuse mod. _________________ '87 Westy Weekender - daily driver on salt-free roads
There's gonna be some changes made.
“I find that things usually go well right up until the moment they don't.” - Ahwahnee
"Quality isn't method. It's the goal toward which the method is aimed." - Socrates, later quoted by R.M. Pirsig |
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torchmonkey Samba Member
Joined: June 16, 2012 Posts: 248 Location: Philly
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Posted: Mon Dec 03, 2012 7:01 pm Post subject: |
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Alright, this isolator has me concerned. I measured continuity with both key on and key off. I have continuity in both positions. I'm over it and want it gone, although somehow both batteries are being charged. I do have a wiring harness coming from the dash (pictured below, located under the seat). I'm guessing this is for the relay that was once there? I'd like to reinstall one of these relays and just want to make sure that is what this harness is for. Comments? Is this the battery cut out relay harness? Looks like I'd need to add a wire to the starter battery for charging, Bentley is not clear on this.
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