Very high idle

[420GOAT]

If the wound spring on the shaft is tight, & you have the pulling spring to the arm to the plenum your good there.
You've got a 4 speed so the kick down arm isn't hanging up on the side of automatic tran arm.

You mentioned you re-shaped the TPS arm, and this I think is where the problem might be.

*the metal arm on the switch would "fall" when held in the way its on the bus. so i gave it a tweak. i tried to adjust per Bently but the throttle shaft, tps lever and cam are worn. this coming tax refund ill get new ones.*


( not to say that there isn't still a vacuum leak somewhere to--the electrical tape at the TB seal is kinda hoakey )
*I totally agree so i got a new TB seal coming my way from you.*

That switch, even though you can hear it clicking means one thing only--it's a working micro switch.

*it seems to be working ok since the horrible bog is pretty much gone.*

You have to set it up right first--a peliminary set up, and then adjust it so it clicks on & off at the right time.
*i will buy an adjuster cam from you soon....holding out since my future TB may have one.*

Did you some adjusting on the throttle stop screw too?

*yes feller gauge .004 closed TRIED to set .010 open but the switch arm and worn cam would not permit, so i got it as close as possible...took about an hour to find a decent spot.*

Can you feel the ICU vibrating when you have the engine running?

*yes i can, but i makes the engine take too long to throttle down and im draging the clutch when shifting.*
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once you realize im not impressed we will get along just fine

[Terry Kay]

The seal is en-route.

The altered arm angle to the cam is more than likely the biggest problem.

The cam is worn, the arm is in a position where maybe it isn't opening & closing at the right time---

What I would do while I was waiting for the new seal to arrive is to get the TB off of the engine & while it's in your lap or on the bench , verify that the trottle plate is cloing all the way.

Verify that the TB shaft isn't shot & wobbling in the bore.

Once you get that ironed out,I'd get a new TPS cam and start over on the adjustment process.

This will get you closer to a properly adusted TPS than you have now.
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T.K.

[420GOAT]

[whip618]

A couple of new shaft seals would help out as well, the ones in your T/B are probably factory and hard as a rock which provide no sealing at all which is a small vacuum leak.

Phil
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[Terry Kay]

If the switch arm is falling, you've got bigger problems than you thought.

The switch is No Longer Available from anywhere, other than a workaround also looks like fix from the Van-Cafe.

If the stock switch is all done, your going to have to go to this fix if you want the idle problem to get ironed out.

There is no other way to get this done right now.
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T.K.

[420GOAT]

[whip618]

New seals are NLA, I have a large number of good used ones saved from the throttle bodies that I rebuild, if your interested in a couple pm your address and I will send you several.

The sticking is usually caused from the throttle plate wearing a groove into the bottom of the throttle bore.

Depending on which throttle body casting you have the groove can be much deeper causing the problem to be worse and to add to this since both the throttle plate and throttle body are aluminum they tend to stick together or gall which is why the throttle plate will not return to idle every time you let off the throttle.

I also have many good used TPS if interested.

Phil
_________________
Life is simple....either you're qualified or you're not.
USSVI.......Pride Runs Deep
USSVI Life member and Holland Club member

Samba Member No. 3307

[420GOAT]

[Old_Ben_Gun]

Stranger than science: On some models on the power steering pump there is a small switch. This little bugger bumps up the idle when it is cold to make it easyer for the steering system to pressure up. After chasing around an idle problem for a very long time fixing this little switch corrected a sticking high idle.

[Terry Kay]

Ben Gun,
First I think he should get the TB issues ironed out & operating properly, then once that is all dialed in, move on to other accessory electrical items.

The OP has a boogered up throttle body,(maybe) a free swinging in the wind TPS actuating arm--no spring load on it, and a worn out TPS operating cam.

I'd start at the TB and then move on to bigger & better, & less obvious engine managemnt item's.
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T.K.

[420GOAT]

over my long weekend ill try to get this done.

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=455400&highlight=tps
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[Rodknock]

[420GOAT]

OK, so Phil sent me a sweet care package....a tps, throttle shaft seals, and a newer cam and lock plate. (im getting you back buddy!) i took it all apart, cleaned it and indeed my throttle body is worn and getting hung up.
i got it on with a new seal...(thanks TK) BUT it wont adjust to bently spec since the TB has Vertical shaft play. it gets warm and will not close.....so i adjust as best as i can. it kept bogging so my buddy at the local shop( Rick @ A&D torrance CA) set my timing, then adjusted the AFM. BUT it ran rich! it was fine cold but bogged once warm and the idle would stay at about 1800 unless i blipped the gas pedal.
the next day i adjusted the AFM back to where it normally is at idle and it ran great, no bog, no hesitation. i also checked voltage with the green wire unplugged to the O2 sensor and i was at about 0.5-0.7 volts at idle, ill check again but at this point its never ran better! it idles at 950-1000 rpm. thanks guys and i appreciate all the help. if you ever have afm problems, id check timing first, then tps switch, then voltage to the afm, then the O2 sensor.
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once you realize im not impressed we will get along just fine