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regis101 Samba Member
Joined: July 28, 2005 Posts: 2078 Location: Livermore, Ca
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Posted: Sun Dec 16, 2012 4:05 pm Post subject: After the fuel line replacement |
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I did a search under a couple of different headings. Didn't find my answer.
I now understand two things, so far. One is that when the key is turned on, the FP will run for a second or two. Two is that the ECU controls the FP.
So what are the safe ways to pressurize the empty fuel lines after one replaces the hoses to check for leaks. I'd rather not just fire it up.
One thought is to cycle the key on and off a few times to let the FP do the work. Two is to supply the FP with a temporary fused 12v source from a second battery.
Any tips out there? _________________ Peace, Regis |
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Vango Conversions Samba Member
Joined: October 04, 2010 Posts: 1054 Location: Seattle, WA
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Posted: Sun Dec 16, 2012 4:17 pm Post subject: |
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Either way works fine, I'd just cycle the key a few times and look for leaks. If you don't see any, fire it up while someone else looks for leaks and have your hand on the key ready to shut it off if any leaks appear.
It isn't too scary, but it's never a bad idea to have an extinguisher handy for the first start. Generally, if you don't see any leaks in the first few minutes you're good to go, but check up on it every so often. |
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regis101 Samba Member
Joined: July 28, 2005 Posts: 2078 Location: Livermore, Ca
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Posted: Sun Dec 16, 2012 4:34 pm Post subject: |
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Yeah. I follow. The worst locations would be just inside the firewall.
It was a bit hard to gauge how tight to clamp down on the plastic lines in those locations. I am pretty mechanical but am just asking for a safer deal.
I'll probably do both methods since I have the means. _________________ Peace, Regis |
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SL1 Samba Member
Joined: December 17, 2010 Posts: 251 Location: Nova Scotia, Canada
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Posted: Sun Dec 16, 2012 4:40 pm Post subject: |
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Vango Conversions wrote: |
Either way works fine, I'd just cycle the key a few times and look for leaks. If you don't see any, fire it up while someone else looks for leaks and have your hand on the key ready to shut it off if any leaks appear.
It isn't too scary, but it's never a bad idea to have an extinguisher handy for the first start. Generally, if you don't see any leaks in the first few minutes you're good to go, but check up on it every so often. |
x1, i just cycled it with the key when i did mine, i tighten the plastic line clamps same as on steel, never had an issue. _________________ Steve
1985 GL Westy - 'Bullwinkle'
1978 Super Beetle - 'Rocky' |
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SCM Samba Member
Joined: January 26, 2011 Posts: 3102 Location: Bozeman MT
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Posted: Sun Dec 16, 2012 4:43 pm Post subject: |
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I hooked a FP gage to my "T" fitting, clamped the rubber return line betweek the FP regulator and gas tank, and then cycled the ignition switch 3 or 4 times (until the pressure was so high my pump would not longer run - about 60 psi). I left the clamp in place for about 20 minutes and checked the FP gage to see if the pressure dropped. It didn't and I felt happy with my install.
Then I unhooked my FP gage and watched a fountain of gas spray up onto the ceiling of my van, cursed a bit, and broke out the soapy water... _________________ '91 Westfalia GL Automatic (GTA "Turbo" Rebuild w/Peloquin) and 2.3L GoWesty Engine |
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regis101 Samba Member
Joined: July 28, 2005 Posts: 2078 Location: Livermore, Ca
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Posted: Sun Dec 16, 2012 4:52 pm Post subject: |
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Thanks for the replies.
I used to drive an AC Bus a while back and did the fuel hoses on it but it used steel lines. I was able to open the flapper in the AFM to have the FP run with the key on. I see that the Vanagon is different. _________________ Peace, Regis |
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regis101 Samba Member
Joined: July 28, 2005 Posts: 2078 Location: Livermore, Ca
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Posted: Sat Dec 22, 2012 2:34 pm Post subject: |
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Finally got around to getting back to the Vanagon.
I cycled the key about four times. Leaned on the starter a bit and she lit with a short moment of sputter. Then it smoothed out all happy like. No leaks.
The fuel pump is much quieter but will bend an ear for any changes. I'm hoping that Santa will throw a new FP under the tree. We'll see.
Kudos to VC for their fuel line replacement kit as well as the fuel filter upgrade kit. _________________ Peace, Regis |
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SCM Samba Member
Joined: January 26, 2011 Posts: 3102 Location: Bozeman MT
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Posted: Sat Dec 22, 2012 6:02 pm Post subject: |
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regis101 wrote: |
Finally got around to getting back to the Vanagon.
I cycled the key about four times. Leaned on the starter a bit and she lit with a short moment of sputter. Then it smoothed out all happy like. No leaks.
The fuel pump is much quieter but will bend an ear for any changes. I'm hoping that Santa will throw a new FP under the tree. We'll see.
Kudos to VC for their fuel line replacement kit as well as the fuel filter upgrade kit. |
Nice job! The weather and road around me just got nice enough for me to take my Westy out for a spin today and I'm still rejoicing at the sound of my much more quite (yet not really silent) fuel pump. The thing is, my fuel hose job isn't what made it quiet. It was replacing the old rusty gas tank that used to foul the pump. If you have/had a noisy pump, it's awoth chekcing to see if you're getting rust accumulating at the pump inlet. If you are, swapping the tank is not a very hard job to do and will pay you back immediately. _________________ '91 Westfalia GL Automatic (GTA "Turbo" Rebuild w/Peloquin) and 2.3L GoWesty Engine |
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regis101 Samba Member
Joined: July 28, 2005 Posts: 2078 Location: Livermore, Ca
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Posted: Sat Dec 22, 2012 6:14 pm Post subject: |
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True dat. I'll keep an eye on things.
My set up (was) with the square prefilter and then the round post filter. I cut the top off of the square filter and it was a bit dark in there. I'm sure that both filters hadn't been changed in a while.
It is indeed a great feeling for peace of mind to have new parts.
My biggest fear was getting a bit of crap in the lines thus clogging one or more of the injectors.
On the road again _________________ Peace, Regis |
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bluebus86 Banned
Joined: September 02, 2010 Posts: 11075
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Posted: Sat Dec 22, 2012 7:34 pm Post subject: |
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I simply pressurize the system by turning the key a half dozen times, then look at each fitting for wet spots, if all is dry, then i fire her up and idle, then I go around and repeat the inspection of all fittings while at idle, being sure to check every connection for damp spots. Then i go for a road test, get her warmed up, go back home and inspect again.
I ALWAYS have a fire extingusher handy in each car I own, and I avoid doing fuel related work on the car in a garage, when possible.
There is one key thing I do i forgot to mention, right before the first post installation pressurization teat, I go back to each and EVERY fitting, and re-check the tightness one additional time. When I do this extra step, it near assures me that there will be no leak on first pressurization.
No need for rigging up a constant run of the pump, the system holds pressure for a while unless there is a leak.
I usually give it a visual re-check (pressurize the system) a day or two later after she has some miles on her, in case vibrations lossened anything, or cause hoses to rub thru.
If I were to park inside a garage, I would be sure to re-double my post drive inspection before closing the car up inside with potention ignition sources. Why risk burning down the house tonight? After all, a small pool of fuel dripped over night in the driveway is no huge deal compaired to a pool of fuel on the floor in an attached garage with a pilot light burning.
If you have fuel lines passing thru any bulkhead using gromments, make sure the gromments are new (not 25 year old originals) and are fully seated. Cracked, hardened, torn, misfit, or improperly installed gromment will lead to fuel line failure. Dont skimp here, they are as important as good fuel hose is. |
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