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BC Westie
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 17, 2012 10:14 pm    Post subject: Aluminum valve covers Reply with quote

On my 1981 Air Cooled I seem to eat through a pair of those cheap cork gaskets every road trip over 2 hours. The result is I need to replace the valve cover gaskets a few times a summer. I think the covers are warped so not making a perfect seal after many years of use.

Has anyone switched over to the Aluminum EMPI or Bug Pack bolt on covers? Pro's and Cons to them? To me I would think they would make a better more even seal and should probably go this route but I also see the stock black ones are also available.
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iltis74
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PostPosted: Tue Dec 18, 2012 1:12 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've ran a few sets on Type I engines in years past, and simply never would again. If the bails are in good shape and the covers flat I've never had a problem with stock. In general the cork gaskets are pretty good, but I bought a set of the orange silicone ones years ago and have had no problems or any need to buy another gasket since. I'd try those before the bolt-on covers. Search the engine forum for tips on how to install the gaskets, as when you say you eat them it makes me wonder if you are installing them improperly, or sucking them in? I have tabs welded inside my covers to keep them in place, but then the covers are one of the few remaining stock parts on the thing.
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Timwhy
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PostPosted: Tue Dec 18, 2012 3:43 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I bought a set of these covers from GW last summer, could not get them to sit right. They rattled and
oil began to leak from them. I put the originals back on and problem solved.
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AdrianC
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PostPosted: Tue Dec 18, 2012 10:24 am    Post subject: Re: Aluminum valve covers Reply with quote

Might be possible to flatten the flanges carefully, using a hammer and block.
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seanjenn
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PostPosted: Tue Dec 18, 2012 11:03 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I think EMPI used to, maybe still does, make a proper thick valve cover gasket. Some of the new cork gaskets are flat out wimpy in my book.
Maybe at one point somebody tweeked the bail just a little out of shape.
I've always had good luck with good cork gaskets, use some gasket shelac between the cover and the gasket, let it tack up a bit before installing. should work fine. As long as your bails and covers in good shape.
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PostPosted: Tue Dec 18, 2012 11:06 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Another approach (have used it on other cars, haven't needed to on the van) is to use RTV between the gasket and cover and sit it on a sheet of glass to set up (overnight). The RTV takes up minor imperfections in the cover and having set up on glass, the gasket presents a very flat surface to the head.

Of course RTV is a PITA to remove but you should get many years of use out the gasket this way and when you have to get the RTV off you are working on the bench not your back (which is why you only use it on the cover side of the gasket).
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Terry Kay
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PostPosted: Tue Dec 18, 2012 12:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

GM engine assmembly adhesive would cure this oil weeping problem at the valve cover's in short order.
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BC Westie
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PostPosted: Tue Dec 18, 2012 7:21 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for the replies. I think I will stay away from the aftermarket valve covers. But I would like to find some rubber gaskets.

The cork ones saturate after pretty extreame drives that we did this summer. Usually involved a trip over the mountain ranges of 30mins straight up (Coquihalla and Snoqualmie) then followed by desert drives of 100f. So lots of heat and the gaskets saturate and cover the back of my van in oil. Then I show up at my destination and folks say whats up with your van (Non VW folks that dont realize our vans like to leave a VW signature on the ground)

I have thought about the RTV but I know what a pain in the arse it is to clean up the cover the next time. All my other cars use rubber so if anyone knows where I can get some for a 2.0Liter I think that is the way I will go next. That is rubber gaskets Smile
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PostPosted: Tue Dec 18, 2012 7:34 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

BC,

I think you are mis reading what is happening when you say your cork gaskets "saturate" as if they are getting full of oil and it's then oozing through them. Not so. They are either damaged (cracked) or the valve cover is distorted and oil is getting past them, not through them. They are designed to easily handle the conditions you describe for years and years. So something is amiss.

DougM
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Wildthings
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PostPosted: Tue Dec 18, 2012 7:45 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I used to get many years out of valve cover gaskets on my Bay. Maybe a dozen valve adjustments and then I would just replace them because??? Now the junk gaskets that are being supplied will shrink, split, and leak before the valves need checking. I am sure there are good cork gaskets out there, but I don't know who sells them.

I think I will try a set of silicone gaskets myself next time.
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minsk
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PostPosted: Tue Dec 18, 2012 7:46 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

i have used three sets of the aluminum go-westy valve covers..
they are aweeeeesome..
make sure the bales are on properly.
if they are not upside they will not get the super tight fit..
ive had freinds use them and not have them fit snug only to find out the bails were not on properly
all of mine are on snug as a bug..no leaky
i used cork valve cover gaskets...put a touch of white lithium grease on them to keep them in place when i put covers on.

the quality of them is exceptional i think.
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BC Westie
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PostPosted: Tue Dec 18, 2012 7:50 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

That is why I suspect the stock covers are warped. Probably original and PO could have dameged them.

Then again my local parts supplier sells me the cork Beck Arnley and they are maybe $3.50 a pair. Just the pain the arse aspect when on the road.
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iltis74
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PostPosted: Tue Dec 18, 2012 11:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Here are the silicone gaskets. They're not a cure all, if your covers are warped you're probably still screwed. I started using them because the cams the beetle ran required frequent checks, and these are easier to re-use, and therefore cheaper in the long run. The only reason you should have to use RTV, or as I prefer gasgacinch, on the covers is to keep the gasket in place during installation. Otherwise why are people getting away with using oil and grease on the head side gasket face? If it's leaking somethings wrong. You can straighten stock covers with success, but new ones are pretty cheap. The bales do go bad, or get bent while being pried on, and if they go on easy at all they are not helping the situation. Any aftermarket cover that uses a stock bale is going to be 100X better than anything bolt on.

Search or ask in the engine forum about cork gaskets and the answer will be there. Those people are pulling covers constantly, not like on here. They are probably not all made the same, but I haven't bought one since the silicone was first introduced.
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PostPosted: Wed Dec 19, 2012 10:33 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

iltis74 wrote:
Any aftermarket cover that uses a stock bale is going to be 100X better than anything bolt on.
.
I was thinking that the bolt-on ones would be the way to go. I'll just trust you on this and save my money. Thanks for the link to the silicone ones. I'm smelling a bit of oil on my 2.1 WBX'er, so I need to cure some of the leaky bits.
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PostPosted: Wed Dec 19, 2012 11:56 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

vanagonjr wrote:
I'm smelling a bit of oil on my 2.1 WBX'er, so I need to cure some of the leaky bits.


Don't forget about the pushrod tubes. Mine were shot and weeping oil but I didn't really see it until I had the pans off replacing the exhaust. New compressible ones with new gaskets and the oil drips have drastically reduced. I assumed it was only the valve covers as that's the most visible and there was oil at the seals. When I get around to new valve cover gaskets it should pretty much seal 'er up.
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[email protected]
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PostPosted: Wed Dec 19, 2012 2:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

bolt on covers are the least desirable. They are best for off road cars, where rocks/sticks can pop a bail off.

But for any other application, the clip on are the way to go. A good cast aluminum cover works really well.

Clip on covers keep constant tension regardless of temperature, this is NOT true of bolt on covers. As temps get hot/cold, they get tight Compressing gaskets), then loose (leaking), requiring you snug them up. Bails adjust tension so they are relatively consistent no matter what the temperature. But if you use a cheap clip on, it will also leak. Only use OEM VW Bails for stock covers, the aftermarket ones are too soft and they'll leak.
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PostPosted: Wed Dec 19, 2012 4:50 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

geo_tonz wrote:
Don't forget about the pushrod tubes. Mine were shot and weeping oil but I didn't really see it until I had the pans off replacing the exhaust. .

Thanks! I don't know why I did not even think of the pushrod tubes. I would not be surprised to find them more culpable than their accomplishes that valve cover gasket gang.

[email protected] wrote:
bolt on covers are the least desirable. They are best for off road cars, where rocks/sticks can pop a bail off.

But for any other application, the clip on are the way to go. A good cast aluminum cover works really well.

Clip on covers keep constant tension regardless of temperature, this is NOT true of bolt on covers.

John, once again you offer great advice to (me and) the list! Thanks guys, I really appreciate this. I have to check out my tubes - kinda wish I had did my exhaust myself so I would have seen more and done more - but I made a promise to myself 15 years ago that I would never touch an exhaust again (here in salt land). And I have broken that promise every time until this year.
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BC Westie
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PostPosted: Wed Dec 19, 2012 5:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Silicone gaskets are ordered. Thanks for the link and feedback. I might also order some new stock covers and clips to be on the safe side.
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