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Borlandrs
Samba Member
Joined: August 25, 2012
Posts: 56
Location: Southern Maryland
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 Posted: Tue Mar 12, 2013 2:40 pm Post subject: |
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Funny, I did the same thing, got my speed sensor a bit too close but thankfully it just chewed up the plastic a bit. Saw the MIL, checked the code, adjusted the sensor and back in business in just a few minutes.
When I installed mine I added the Gowesty AT cooler, and I sometimes get a whine from that when the engine is warm but not hot. I think it's the valve singing because it's slightly open. Called Gowesty and the've heard of that issue, but not with an AT. They confirmed it is an annoyance but not a danger to the AT. Don't know if that's your issue, but sounded similar.
The Tach Mod is super easy to install in the black junction box in the engine bay. Works great.
Love all the great pics. Inspires me to start putting some serious miles on (I'm at about 450 just around town so far). Thanks.
Rob
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1990 Westy GL, Bostig Zetec |
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indytriple
Samba Member
Joined: April 27, 2009
Posts: 710
Location: Brownsburg, Indiana
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| Posted: Thu Mar 14, 2013 5:59 am Post subject: |
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| jrobewesty wrote: |
Cool, I was getting scared when we didn't hear from you, thought you went off the deep end! 
Ready for BBTB this year??
Is the power about the same as the EJ22?
Jeff |
I've gone of the deep end more than once, but not in this instance! My excuse was good. I was out driving the hell out of the van!
We may not make it to BBTB this year because we already have a trip planned a few days after that for the John Hartford Memorial Bluegrass Festival in Bean Blossom, IN (http://www.johnhartfordmemfest.com). I'm still hoping to fit it in, but it may not work out.
Yep, the power seems comparable to me, but that was a short drive I took in your rig. To make a fair comparison I'd have to do some hilly driving and some interstate miles before I was able to make a more accurate comparison.
_________________
"See The Glass As Already Broken."
87 Vanagon Westy Auto Bostig
www.bluegrassbicyclecompany.com |
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indytriple
Samba Member
Joined: April 27, 2009
Posts: 710
Location: Brownsburg, Indiana
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| Posted: Tue Jun 18, 2013 9:03 pm Post subject: |
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I now have almost 5,000 miles on the Bostig including a 3,000 mile trip through the southeast US. We leave Indy for Copper Harbor, Michigan on Sunday for a two week vacation. The last time we tried to make this trip the Waterboxer gave up on us in the U.P., so this is a redemption trip, of sorts.
I've been very happy with my decision. If you're short on time and you want to take the easy way out, definitely go with the turnkey. It was sinfully easy. They don't offer many of them, so you may have to get in line.
_________________
"See The Glass As Already Broken."
87 Vanagon Westy Auto Bostig
www.bluegrassbicyclecompany.com |
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JeffRobenolt
Samba Member
Joined: February 25, 2007
Posts: 1513
Location: Wisconsin
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| Posted: Tue Jun 18, 2013 9:27 pm Post subject: |
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I hope you will have time to stop by on you way up or down.
Lots of stuff for the kids. Playground, pool and lots of animals right now.
4 cows, 6 calves under a month old, down to 7 laying hens but 35 chicks that are only a week old.
Plenty of room in or out.
I'm thinking on the same trip this fall if I can get a van going by then!!
Jeff
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| jfats808 wrote: |
| Most, some, few is not all. You can always learn something from everyone , even the fool. |
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chojinchef
Samba Member
Joined: February 17, 2011
Posts: 1539
Location: Central Massachusetts
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| Posted: Wed Jun 19, 2013 4:30 am Post subject: |
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Bravo
Passed 12000 on my Bostig last week.
Had not really thought about it until last weekend at Litchfield VW event, but the only time I have needed to pull engine cover was to change oil or show a curious van owner. It's great having that piece of mind.
_________________
Its a mistress; an expensive, whiney, needy bitch of a mistress. She is a chunky, dirty girl with bad skin, little motivation and yet she always makes me smile. She sure has been around before shacking up with me. She has a direct line to my wallet, plays with my emotions, is consistantly jovial yet with a sarcastic and sardonic side, is consistant in her inconsistancy, and every once in a while gives me a great ride and a fantastic memory. |
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redeyeksc
Samba Member
Joined: October 14, 2012
Posts: 116
Location: guelph, ON
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| Posted: Wed Jun 19, 2013 6:32 pm Post subject: |
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Great thread, thanks for all the pics and details about the install.
I am guessing you are going to Copper Harbour for the same reason we are. Hopefully my WBX doesn't have the same problems yours did.
We are headed up for a week friday to check out the mountain biking. We will keep an eye out for you.
We'll be in the baby blue Westy, if you see us come say hi!
_________________
84 Westfalia, now with Bostig Zetec 2.0L, Manual Transmission
Alex |
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indytriple
Samba Member
Joined: April 27, 2009
Posts: 710
Location: Brownsburg, Indiana
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| Posted: Wed Jun 19, 2013 9:37 pm Post subject: |
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Nice! We'll be on the lookout for you up in Copper. We've got a pretty big crew going up there so it should be good times. We're in site 22 in the Ft. Wilkins East campground. We get there late on Monday night. We'll all be riding every day. The trails there are great, and the town is really laid back. Good scene.
See you up there.
Jonathan
_________________
"See The Glass As Already Broken."
87 Vanagon Westy Auto Bostig
www.bluegrassbicyclecompany.com |
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redeyeksc
Samba Member
Joined: October 14, 2012
Posts: 116
Location: guelph, ON
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| Posted: Sun Jun 23, 2013 7:34 am Post subject: |
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We are here on the east site#12...WiFi..how could we not pick a site here. We are getting eaten alive though and are contemplating seeing what the bugs are like on a different site
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84 Westfalia, now with Bostig Zetec 2.0L, Manual Transmission
Alex |
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indytriple
Samba Member
Joined: April 27, 2009
Posts: 710
Location: Brownsburg, Indiana
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| Posted: Wed Dec 18, 2013 3:46 pm Post subject: |
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Just passed 10,000 miles on my conversion so I thought it would be a good time to post with updates.
We had a flawless trip up to Copper Harbor (mentioned in a previous post) earlier this year, and we've had lots of shorter trips since then.
I am still absolutely pleased with my decision, and I have no regrets. It's barely had a hiccup so far, and the Bostig boys have been A1.
The only issues I've had so far are thus:
-I have a rough downshift in the auto tranny from 2nd to 1st as I'm coming to a stop. It's only while braking. If it downshifts while coasting it's as smooth as silk, but if I make a somewhat sudden stop it will thunk as it downshifts. It's more of a feel than an audible thing. I wonder if there isn't something I could do with the flash tuner to improve this. It seems like it might help if I could get the engine RPMs to come down quicker as I decelerate. How would I best go about doing that? Has anyone else with a Bostig auto tranny conversion noticed this behavior?
-The lack of heat is pretty surprising, especially when it's really cold. Every single piece of my cooling system is new, so it means that my radiator and my front heater core flow really well, so the system is super efficient and keeps engine temps down. I tried constricting the main send line just off the thermo tower slightly with a large, broad hose clamp per Bostig's suggestion, but after a few experiments it seems as if I'm going to have to constrict the line WAY more than I would like or what they recommend. I've noticed improvements in heat as I've slowly constricted the line, but they've been modest at best. If I'm on the interstate in under 20F degree weather, the engine temp gauge will BARELY even register when the heat is full on. I'm a little nervous to constrict the line even more, but I may give it a shot. I like their solution of restricting the send line, because it's simple, easy and cheap. Also, in Indiana the weather changes on a dime. It's going to go from a 20F high to a 60F high this week alone. I'd love to hear from other Bostig folks what their experience with heat output has been. We're starting to take the van on lots of ski trips, and I need to keep the family nice and warm. Suggestions and related experiences welcome.
-The whistling noise that sounded like it was coming from the tranny or the tranny cooler magically went away, and only happens very, very infrequently now and only for a second.. Also, the cavitating noise that seemed to be coming from the power steering pump also went away months ago and has not returned. I love those kind of problems!
-Finally, the flickering oil level light on turns and inclines is still problematic. It's annoying as hell, but I still don't think there is any fix for it from Bostig. I've gotten used to it, but I'd eventually like to improve it. They told me there would be a solution, but if there is one I haven't heard about it yet. Any one else heard of a fix or come up with one on your own?
_________________
"See The Glass As Already Broken."
87 Vanagon Westy Auto Bostig
www.bluegrassbicyclecompany.com
Last edited by indytriple on Wed Dec 18, 2013 5:11 pm; edited 2 times in total |
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Yondermtn
Samba Member
Joined: November 21, 2007
Posts: 609
Location: Illinois
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| Posted: Wed Dec 18, 2013 4:17 pm Post subject: |
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Great thread 
Fellow phan here. My wife and I got engaged the week of the 2010 Deer Creek run up in Michigan then drove our 1977 Westy down to Noblesville.
We've since added a Vanagon to our garage.
Also, my '92 Jetta broke down on the way to Deer Creek in 2004. We arrived at the show during the first song. 
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1977 Westfalia 2.0FI 4spd
1990 Multivan 2.1 Auto |
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bosruten
Samba Member
Joined: February 11, 2011
Posts: 551
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| Posted: Wed Dec 18, 2013 6:50 pm Post subject: |
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| indytriple wrote: |
-The lack of heat is pretty surprising, especially when it's really cold. Every single piece of my cooling system is new, so it means that my radiator and my front heater core flow really well, so the system is super efficient and keeps engine temps down. I tried constricting the main send line just off the thermo tower slightly with a large, broad hose clamp per Bostig's suggestion, but after a few experiments it seems as if I'm going to have to constrict the line WAY more than I would like or what they recommend. I've noticed improvements in heat as I've slowly constricted the line, but they've been modest at best. If I'm on the interstate in under 20F degree weather, the engine temp gauge will BARELY even register when the heat is full on. I'm a little nervous to constrict the line even more, but I may give it a shot. I like their solution of restricting the send line, because it's simple, easy and cheap. Also, in Indiana the weather changes on a dime. It's going to go from a 20F high to a 60F high this week alone. I'd love to hear from other Bostig folks what their experience with heat output has been. We're starting to take the van on lots of ski trips, and I need to keep the family nice and warm. Suggestions and related experiences welcome. |
It gets chilly in my area and I blocked the radiator with some cardboard. It helped get the temps. up...and sooner.
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'87 Syncro Weekender |
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Jake de Villiers
Samba Member
Joined: October 24, 2007
Posts: 5911
Location: Tsawwassen, BC
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| Posted: Wed Dec 18, 2013 8:48 pm Post subject: |
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| indytriple wrote: |
Just passed 10,000 miles on my conversion so I thought it would be a good time to post with updates.
We had a flawless trip up to Copper Harbor (mentioned in a previous post) earlier this year, and we've had lots of shorter trips since then.
I am still absolutely pleased with my decision, and I have no regrets. It's barely had a hiccup so far, and the Bostig boys have been A1.
The only issues I've had so far are thus:
-I have a rough downshift in the auto tranny from 2nd to 1st as I'm coming to a stop. It's only while braking. If it downshifts while coasting it's as smooth as silk, but if I make a somewhat sudden stop it will thunk as it downshifts. It's more of a feel than an audible thing. I wonder if there isn't something I could do with the flash tuner to improve this. It seems like it might help if I could get the engine RPMs to come down quicker as I decelerate. How would I best go about doing that? Has anyone else with a Bostig auto tranny conversion noticed this behavior?
-The lack of heat is pretty surprising, especially when it's really cold. Every single piece of my cooling system is new, so it means that my radiator and my front heater core flow really well, so the system is super efficient and keeps engine temps down. I tried constricting the main send line just off the thermo tower slightly with a large, broad hose clamp per Bostig's suggestion, but after a few experiments it seems as if I'm going to have to constrict the line WAY more than I would like or what they recommend. I've noticed improvements in heat as I've slowly constricted the line, but they've been modest at best. If I'm on the interstate in under 20F degree weather, the engine temp gauge will BARELY even register when the heat is full on. I'm a little nervous to constrict the line even more, but I may give it a shot. I like their solution of restricting the send line, because it's simple, easy and cheap. Also, in Indiana the weather changes on a dime. It's going to go from a 20F high to a 60F high this week alone. I'd love to hear from other Bostig folks what their experience with heat output has been. We're starting to take the van on lots of ski trips, and I need to keep the family nice and warm. Suggestions and related experiences welcome.
-The whistling noise that sounded like it was coming from the tranny or the tranny cooler magically went away, and only happens very, very infrequently now and only for a second.. Also, the cavitating noise that seemed to be coming from the power steering pump also went away months ago and has not returned. I love those kind of problems!
-Finally, the flickering oil level light on turns and inclines is still problematic. It's annoying as hell, but I still don't think there is any fix for it from Bostig. I've gotten used to it, but I'd eventually like to improve it. They told me there would be a solution, but if there is one I haven't heard about it yet. Any one else heard of a fix or come up with one on your own? |
If your engine is cold, you need a new thermostat. Its job is to keep your engine at the optimum temperature, summer and winter, by allowing the correct amount of cooler water back into the engine from the radiator.
The engine should be around 190*F. all the time after its warmed up
_________________
'84 Vanagon GL 1.9 WBX
'86 Westy Weekender Poptop/2.5 Subaru/5 Speed Posi/Audi Front Brakes/16 x 7 Mercedes Wheels - answers to 'Dixie'
@jakedevilliersmusic1
http://sites.google.com/site/subyjake/mydixiedarlin%27
www.crescentbeachguitar.com
www.thebassspa.com |
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Zero419
Samba Member
Joined: January 11, 2008
Posts: 2160
Location: PA
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| Posted: Thu Dec 19, 2013 5:36 am Post subject: |
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There was something on the old Bostig web site about putting a couple hose clamps around a certain hose to reduce he diameter and gain heat.
I tried it with little luck.
I still get the oil light flicker too.
I’m a phan as well. I had a lot more fun as a kid seeing them, but I still get out once in a while, I saw SPAC night 2 and Bethel Night 2 recently.
Lemonwheel was my phish career high.
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1987 Westy Auto Bostig 2.0 Ztec |
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chojinchef
Samba Member
Joined: February 17, 2011
Posts: 1539
Location: Central Massachusetts
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| Posted: Thu Dec 19, 2013 6:23 am Post subject: |
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| indytriple wrote: |
The only issues I've had so far are thus:
-The lack of heat is pretty surprising, especially when it's really cold. Every single piece of my cooling system is new, so it means that my radiator and my front heater core flow really well, so the system is super efficient and keeps engine temps down. I tried constricting the main send line just off the thermo tower slightly with a large, broad hose clamp per Bostig's suggestion, but after a few experiments it seems as if I'm going to have to constrict the line WAY more than I would like or what they recommend. I've noticed improvements in heat as I've slowly constricted the line, but they've been modest at best. If I'm on the interstate in under 20F degree weather, the engine temp gauge will BARELY even register when the heat is full on. I'm a little nervous to constrict the line even more, but I may give it a shot. I like their solution of restricting the send line, because it's simple, easy and cheap. Also, in Indiana the weather changes on a dime. It's going to go from a 20F high to a 60F high this week alone. I'd love to hear from other Bostig folks what their experience with heat output has been. We're starting to take the van on lots of ski trips, and I need to keep the family nice and warm. Suggestions and related experiences
-Finally, the flickering oil level light on turns and inclines is still problematic. It's annoying as hell, but I still don't think there is any fix for it from Bostig. I've gotten used to it, but I'd eventually like to improve it. They told me there would be a solution, but if there is one I haven't heard about it yet. Any one else heard of a fix or come up with one on your own? |
I do not drive the Thingamajigger much in winter at all, probably due to poor heat, but also there are always things happening to her in winter.
I have no heat whatsoever from front core. I have tried many clamp scenarios, to no real success. Enough heat has to be generated in that core to overcome addition of cool air, and it is not happening. Cooling system seems to be too efficient, heater lines cooling down too quick in winter?
My current mode of thinking - and I am throwing this out there for consideration - is that an elimination of the heater core supply line from the rear could be replaced with a branch off the main coolant line. Utilizing a 'tee' before and after the connections to the radiator and an electric pump could be utilized to supply the core with wonderfully hot water. A flick of the switch (do not know if factory rheostat could handle it?) and pump provided hot water to core, turn it off and it's a stop mechanism for any flow to the front core.
Have I missed something? Do I need to revisit the caffeination station, and ponder this more in depth?
Maybe I will go to Bostig this morning and consult with them.
FWIW - have never had flickering oil light.
_________________
Its a mistress; an expensive, whiney, needy bitch of a mistress. She is a chunky, dirty girl with bad skin, little motivation and yet she always makes me smile. She sure has been around before shacking up with me. She has a direct line to my wallet, plays with my emotions, is consistantly jovial yet with a sarcastic and sardonic side, is consistant in her inconsistancy, and every once in a while gives me a great ride and a fantastic memory. |
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squeegee_boy
Samba Member
Joined: April 27, 2008
Posts: 762
Location: Langley, BC, Canada
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| Posted: Thu Dec 19, 2013 10:27 am Post subject: |
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| Jake de Villiers wrote: |
If your engine is cold, you need a new thermostat. Its job is to keep your engine at the optimum temperature, summer and winter, by allowing the correct amount of cooler water back into the engine from the radiator.
The engine should be around 190*F. all the time after its warmed up |
This is bang on. It's not unheard of to have a bad thermostat out of the box, so even though it was new at install time it may have packed it in. It's an easy swap on your conversion, I'd change that out with another one and see what effect that has.
Robyn
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1984 FrankenSyncro Westy. EJ25 RMW kit
1971 Super Beetle with an EJ22. Oh yes. Daily driver |
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indytriple
Samba Member
Joined: April 27, 2009
Posts: 710
Location: Brownsburg, Indiana
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| Posted: Fri Dec 20, 2013 7:42 am Post subject: |
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| squeegee_boy wrote: |
| Jake de Villiers wrote: |
If your engine is cold, you need a new thermostat. Its job is to keep your engine at the optimum temperature, summer and winter, by allowing the correct amount of cooler water back into the engine from the radiator.
The engine should be around 190*F. all the time after its warmed up |
This is bang on. It's not unheard of to have a bad thermostat out of the box, so even though it was new at install time it may have packed it in. It's an easy swap on your conversion, I'd change that out with another one and see what effect that has.
Robyn |
Thanks for the suggestions, folks. I appreciate the input.
If the engine temps are steady and normal when outside temperatures get above 30 or 40 and heat output is normal and fine, could that be a bad thermostat? Wouldn't a bad thermostat show itself at all operating temps?
Yes, changing the thermostat is relatively easy and that's a good suggestion, but bleeding all of the air out of the cooling system with the Bostig is a pretty big pain in the ass so I'd rather not go there unless I'm pretty sure that the thermostat is the culprit. I'm not very convinced that the thermostat is to blame, especially since almost every Bostig conversion has the same issue that I have.
_________________
"See The Glass As Already Broken."
87 Vanagon Westy Auto Bostig
www.bluegrassbicyclecompany.com
Last edited by indytriple on Fri Dec 20, 2013 10:44 am; edited 1 time in total |
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Jake de Villiers
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Joined: October 24, 2007
Posts: 5911
Location: Tsawwassen, BC
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indytriple
Samba Member
Joined: April 27, 2009
Posts: 710
Location: Brownsburg, Indiana
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| Posted: Fri Dec 20, 2013 9:03 am Post subject: |
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| Jake de Villiers wrote: |
| indytriple wrote: |
| almost every Bostig conversion has the same issue that I have. |
Are you serious!?! That doesn't sound like Jim... |
My bad. I should have said that general lack of heat is a common problem. Low engine temps in very cold situations is not necessarily a known issue. I should have clarified. Thank you for pointing that out. However, Bostig recommends constricting the main send line to improve heat output, so it's pretty safe to say that lack of heat output is a common issue that you might expect to encounter, especially in very cold weather or climates.
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"See The Glass As Already Broken."
87 Vanagon Westy Auto Bostig
www.bluegrassbicyclecompany.com |
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MarkWard
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Joined: February 09, 2005
Posts: 17155
Location: Retired South Florida
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| Posted: Fri Dec 20, 2013 11:19 am Post subject: |
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The VW inline 4 in the vanagon has the heater core plumbed to the radiator bypass circuit of the engine. In other words, until the thermostat opens, all coolant flow is through the engine bypass and the heater core. I have also found the heater core to be a very efficent radiator on cold days. I am not familiar with the Ford engine, but they too must have some sort of warmup coolant bypass system. If you could post some drawings of the coolant flow, I might be able to contribute something helpful.
Are you running an actual oil pressure gauge? If so, what is happening when the oil light comes on? From your description, it sounds like the oil is moving away from the pickup, which is never good. A baffled pan would help and search the internet for "accusump". They have a 1 qt one that prelubes the engine on startup and also is a reserve of pressure if the pickup becomes uncovered.
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indytriple
Samba Member
Joined: April 27, 2009
Posts: 710
Location: Brownsburg, Indiana
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| Posted: Fri Dec 20, 2013 11:47 am Post subject: |
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| rsxsr wrote: |
| The VW inline 4 in the vanagon has the heater core plumbed to the radiator bypass circuit of the engine. In other words, until the thermostat opens, all coolant flow is through the engine bypass and the heater core. I have also found the heater core to be a very efficent radiator on cold days. I am not familiar with the Ford engine, but they too must have some sort of warmup coolant bypass system. If you could post some drawings of the coolant flow, I might be able to contribute something helpful. |
Here's the diagram of the coolant system on the manual transmission. I have an auto tranny, but my system is like this due to removal of the stock tranny cooler and replacement with an external GoWesty unit.
Here's the diagram of the coolant system on a typical auto with the stock heat exchanger.
| rsxsr wrote: |
| Are you running an actual oil pressure gauge? If so, what is happening when the oil light comes on? From your description, it sounds like the oil is moving away from the pickup, which is never good. A baffled pan would help and search the internet for "accusump". They have a 1 qt one that prelubes the engine on startup and also is a reserve of pressure if the pickup becomes uncovered. |
I am not running an oil pressure gauge. The level warning light flickers on harder right turns and curves as well as steep inclines as oil moves away from the sensor on the front/right of the oil pan. It is a known issue with Bostig, and they told me to expect a fix at some point in the future. I have the very expensive Bostig High Capacity oil pan that improves clearance, so I'm not interested in switching pans. It's not something that's causing any harm, it's just simply annoying.
Thank you for your help and input.
_________________
"See The Glass As Already Broken."
87 Vanagon Westy Auto Bostig
www.bluegrassbicyclecompany.com |
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