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curtis4085
Samba Member
Joined: July 22, 2011
Posts: 4806
Location: Colorado
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 Posted: Tue Feb 04, 2014 2:57 pm Post subject: |
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| curtis4085 wrote: |
Hello gang! I need some advice with color and the best process for painting small misc parts. Thing such as headlight buckets, window guide channels, brackets, jack, etc.
Questions:
*Best process for refinishing small parts?
My plan, I am either stripping to bare metal by sanding, wire wheel or media blasting. I then plan to epoxy prime all and paint in their appropriate color. The epoxy primer I'm looking at using is Spray Max 2K epoxy rust cure primer in rattle can. Topcoats will most likely be a enamel rattle can product.
*Curious about your feelings on this process as I described?
*What Topcoat color/vendor/product would you recommend in a rattle can product for the headlight buckets (keep in mind whatever it is it must be compatible with epoxy primer)? Was thinking New Ford Grey was close? I recall them being a grey color but have since stripped them so I have nothing to reference.
Thank you for input in advance  |
Anyone? Lots of lookie Lou's...
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collinVW32
Samba Member
Joined: May 23, 2012
Posts: 186
Location: Wichita, Kansas
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| Posted: Tue Feb 04, 2014 8:39 pm Post subject: |
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In my opinion media blasting is definately the best way to go. On most of the misc. parts I have done on my project (windshield wipers, ash trey, steering column etc..) I have media blasted them, cleaned them really well with painters alcohol and rag, then just used a good quality matte black rattle can on them.
This seems to have worked really well for me, all of the paint has held up well and gives everything a nice fresh look. If you have any questions please feel free to ask me. Love your project, hope this helps!
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curtis4085
Samba Member
Joined: July 22, 2011
Posts: 4806
Location: Colorado
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| Posted: Tue Feb 04, 2014 9:16 pm Post subject: |
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| collinVW32 wrote: |
In my opinion media blasting is definately the best way to go. On most of the misc. parts I have done on my project (windshield wipers, ash trey, steering column etc..) I have media blasted them, cleaned them really well with painters alcohol and rag, then just used a good quality matte black rattle can on them.
This seems to have worked really well for me, all of the paint has held up well and gives everything a nice fresh look. If you have any questions please feel free to ask me. Love your project, hope this helps! |
Direct to metal painting after media blast may be one way to go and considering VW did it I find it a acceptable process.
The bonus I was think with using a 2k epoxy rust cure primer before topcoat are It's a super durable product and will give a nice substrate to topcoat over. It also will give future rust a run for its money.
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Keith
Samba Member
Joined: August 15, 2005
Posts: 3634
Location: Brodheadsville, PA
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| Posted: Tue Feb 04, 2014 9:26 pm Post subject: |
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As pointed out, many manufacturers use "direct metal painting". I've actually found that parts that are constantly being heated ( dash from the sun, brakes, engine bits, etc ) hold up better with no primer. I painted the drums on my '65 with semi-gloss high heat paint directly on the (cleaned) bare metal in 2005 and look like they have been painted yesterday. I've also painted motorcycle engine parts black on bare metal and again, they look like they were just painted. I've done other parts as well the same way and they all look great. I find that in regards to high heat paints they do better with no primer at all. It's good to note that not all of the paint I've used on bare metal was with high heat paint.
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Formerly known in the forums as "OVALTEEN"
"I firmly believe that some villagers from Botswana could probably build a better road than PennDot."- Splitty
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curtis4085
Samba Member
Joined: July 22, 2011
Posts: 4806
Location: Colorado
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| Posted: Tue Feb 04, 2014 10:43 pm Post subject: |
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| Keith wrote: |
| As pointed out, many manufacturers use "direct metal painting". I've actually found that parts that are constantly being heated ( dash from the sun, brakes, engine bits, etc ) hold up better with no primer. I painted the drums on my '65 with semi-gloss high heat paint directly on the (cleaned) bare metal in 2005 and look like they have been painted yesterday. I've also painted motorcycle engine parts black on bare metal and again, they look like they were just painted. I've done other parts as well the same way and they all look great. I find that in regards to high heat paints they do better with no primer at all. It's good to note that not all of the paint I've used on bare metal was with high heat paint. |
I to only used DTM method when using high temp paints and have had good luck so for on said items.
Putting DTM painting aside at the moment.
Im still looking to explore if a expoxy rust cure primer would benefit being used on items that get more exposers to moisture, like the headlight buckets or interior door parts to prevent rust?? A lot of guys swear buy epoxy when prime bare metal bodywork just thought it may translate into a better product for the small parts I have described.
Should be noted: I powder-coated most all the interior metal trims, dash, pedals, steering column etc. the few parts in question are going a grey color and I could not find a powder in a close enough match to satisfy. This has left me looking for a suitable rattle can match and process.
My color choices to get close to the original grey color on the headlight buckets are either New Ford grey or Dove grey.
And as discussed I'm leaning towards using epoxy primer before topcoat. Normally I would have rolled the dice on DTM or etch primer. But having been there and done that as well as recently finding out about a 2k epoxy primer in a rattle can and thought it might be a game changer especially if you hate braking out a paint gun to just paint a few small parts.
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skills@eurocarsplus
Samba Peckerhead
Joined: January 01, 2007
Posts: 16852
Location: sticksville, ct.
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| Posted: Wed Feb 05, 2014 6:38 am Post subject: |
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blast>epoxy>paint>enjoy color is up to you. rattle can stuff is ok(ish) for stuff that isn't exposed to UV light. it will cloud and get chalky...may take a while, but it will. (most of the rattle can stuff dosen't have the goodies in it for good color hold out)
i did use NFG on my headlight buckets as it was close enough. in some areas i would use it for sure
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| gprudenciop wrote: |
my reason for switching to subaru is my german car was turning chinese so i said fuck it and went japanese....... |
| Jake Raby wrote: |
| Thanks for the correction. I used to be a nice guy, then I ruined it by exposing myself to the public. |
| Brian wrote: |
| Also the fact that people are agreeing with Skills, it's a turn of events for samba history |
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nathansnathan
Samba Member
Joined: April 14, 2008
Posts: 1671
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| Posted: Wed Feb 05, 2014 6:59 am Post subject: |
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Stock, the headlight buckets are in bare grey primer. Epoxy primer should protect fairly well on its own. -I'm not talking about rattle can 'epoxy'.
I've heard ford grey is a close match if you do want to top coat.
I'm surprised you don't have a Caswell plating kit, Curtis. I've got one, though I haven't used it yet. Just gathering some small stuff that I'll need. Zinc plating the headlight buckets would work well. |
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curtis4085
Samba Member
Joined: July 22, 2011
Posts: 4806
Location: Colorado
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| Posted: Wed Feb 05, 2014 4:17 pm Post subject: |
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Thanks for the recommendations Don and Nathan! This helps me finalize my path for here.
Nathan, you have your own plating kit?? Now I'm jealous.
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curtis4085
Samba Member
Joined: July 22, 2011
Posts: 4806
Location: Colorado
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| Posted: Wed Feb 05, 2014 4:34 pm Post subject: |
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Can anyone point me in the right Direction for a replacement headliner for this Panel Van. Must be close patter to OG as well as only cover the cab area. Do not want to have to buy a full length headliner to have to trim it back. There has to be a options. Didn't the Kombi only have headliner in cab area as well?
Found it! BUT: what color is closest to stock. TMI is so not helpful.
http://www.tmiproducts.com/volkswagen/browse-by-ve...vinyl.html
Anyone have better product? Sewfine.
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skills@eurocarsplus
Samba Peckerhead
Joined: January 01, 2007
Posts: 16852
Location: sticksville, ct.
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| Posted: Wed Feb 05, 2014 4:50 pm Post subject: |
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i did off white in my single
scroll almost to the bottom
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=536749&highlight=nose+job
pretty happy with it. i hope you have your original for a pattern. it will make life mo' betta if you do, as you can use it as a guide to trim back the bow pockets
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| gprudenciop wrote: |
my reason for switching to subaru is my german car was turning chinese so i said fuck it and went japanese....... |
| Jake Raby wrote: |
| Thanks for the correction. I used to be a nice guy, then I ruined it by exposing myself to the public. |
| Brian wrote: |
| Also the fact that people are agreeing with Skills, it's a turn of events for samba history |
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nathansnathan
Samba Member
Joined: April 14, 2008
Posts: 1671
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| Posted: Wed Feb 05, 2014 4:53 pm Post subject: |
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| curtis4085 wrote: |
Thanks for the recommendations Don and Nathan! This helps me finalize my path for here.
Nathan, you have your own plating kit?? Now I'm jealous. |
They aren't too expensive. The power supply is the pricey part. I got it for my 914 restoration; all the metal bits are yellow zinc or copy cad, where a lot of the stuff on the bus is a dull zinc, like the seat belt receptacle "straps". You just leave off the final step and it looks like that. It's supposed to be better than paint in a lot of aplications.
I haven't actually tried it, but some people have posted pics and it looks pretty cool.
http://www.caswellplating.com/electroplating-anodizing/zinc-plating-kits.html
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curtis4085
Samba Member
Joined: July 22, 2011
Posts: 4806
Location: Colorado
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| Posted: Wed Feb 05, 2014 5:17 pm Post subject: |
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Trim now pockets back? Ah shit now you got me scratching my head. I'm site there is a little fun ahead!! I do not have my hole original headliner just a swatch of it  . So this trimming is it just to the sides as seen in your thread?
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curtis4085
Samba Member
Joined: July 22, 2011
Posts: 4806
Location: Colorado
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| Posted: Wed Feb 05, 2014 5:18 pm Post subject: |
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| nathansnathan wrote: |
| curtis4085 wrote: |
Thanks for the recommendations Don and Nathan! This helps me finalize my path for here.
Nathan, you have your own plating kit?? Now I'm jealous. |
They aren't too expensive. The power supply is the pricey part. I got it for my 914 restoration; all the metal bits are yellow zinc or copy cad, where a lot of the stuff on the bus is a dull zinc, like the seat belt receptacle "straps". You just leave off the final step and it looks like that. It's supposed to be better than paint in a lot of aplications.
I haven't actually tried it, but some people have posted pics and it looks pretty cool.
http://www.caswellplating.com/electroplating-anodizing/zinc-plating-kits.html
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Now that's cool. If only I had the room!
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1967250s
Samba Member
Joined: May 02, 2007
Posts: 2137
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| Posted: Thu Feb 06, 2014 11:55 am Post subject: |
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| Thanks for that plating link. Lotsa stuff I want/need to plate, especially the window plastic trim. What else can I do? |
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curtis4085
Samba Member
Joined: July 22, 2011
Posts: 4806
Location: Colorado
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| Posted: Mon Feb 10, 2014 8:43 pm Post subject: Steering column |
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Have bunch of projects going. Assembled the steering column. NOS turn signal switch, powder coated all. Cleaned and greased steering column bearing.
I still have to make the horn ground wire. What I pulled out was a wire wrapped I'm straws. I think we can do a bit better.
Early in the day I prepped some headlight buckets and some brackets after media blast with some Jasco metal prep. After things dried I decided I would wash the residue off to ready for epoxy primer. This turned out to be a bad idea, as everything flash rusted. I'm so bummed,, guess its me and the steel wool tomorrow.
Need some help please... Can anyone point me to a vendor who has this exact steering column decal. I have no clue what it says, have yet to bus out my magnifier. (This is a 71 Panel)
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nathansnathan
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curtis4085
Samba Member
Joined: July 22, 2011
Posts: 4806
Location: Colorado
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| Posted: Mon Feb 10, 2014 9:45 pm Post subject: |
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Thank you.
Next question
I just realized my previously working ignition is no longer rotating now that its assembled. Such a pain taking the key portion out I fear I have hours of hair pulling ahead as its somehow locked. Can anyone offer a suggestion to where I could have gone wrong. Key fits nice but zero movement. I'm almost positive I have the right key. Wish there was a way to check. This dumb ass doesn't have his bus keys marked. Your help is so needed on this one.
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curtis4085
Samba Member
Joined: July 22, 2011
Posts: 4806
Location: Colorado
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| Posted: Mon Feb 10, 2014 10:50 pm Post subject: |
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| curtis4085 wrote: |
Thank you.
Next question
I just realized my previously working ignition is no longer rotating now that its assembled. Such a pain taking the key portion out I fear I have hours of hair pulling ahead as its somehow locked. Can anyone offer a suggestion to where I could have gone wrong. Key fits nice but zero movement. I'm almost positive I have the right key. Wish there was a way to check. This dumb ass doesn't have his bus keys marked. Your help is so needed on this one. |
Think I'm gonna throw this column on the fire. Im so sick of trying to remove the lock cylinder  . Cannot get it to function and fear the worst, replacement. Last time took me hours cusing last time to get the damn thing out. Farg Fargo farg. Wish knew what was hangin up.
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Red Fau Veh
Samba Member
Joined: September 07, 2012
Posts: 3037
Location: Prescott Az.
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| Posted: Mon Feb 10, 2014 11:54 pm Post subject: |
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Probly the steering wheel lock, try pulling the wheel as you turn the key.
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| Touch Nicks Thing wrote: |
Swivel Seat panels are for people with no friends  |
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curtis4085
Samba Member
Joined: July 22, 2011
Posts: 4806
Location: Colorado
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| Posted: Tue Feb 11, 2014 5:56 am Post subject: |
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| Red Fau Veh wrote: |
| Probly the steering wheel lock, try pulling the wheel as you turn the key. |
That's my fear. I currently do not have steering wheel installed. And I removed the shaft as well. Still wont go. I fear I damaged it putting in the shaft. Wast thinking. The lock most have been engaged and I forced the shaft past it. Just a tap but something gave as the shaft did go past. Now no turnery.
Can I just get a replacement steering wheel lock portion of this setup or will I need from tumbler back. I know I do t need to replace the ignition it self(electronic portion)
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