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Planned Fuel Tank Drop
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DAIZEE
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 04, 2013 4:15 pm    Post subject: Planned Fuel Tank Drop Reply with quote

I'm finally going to start this job mid next week. 1971 Bug Guy you wanted to observe or partake, let me know if so.

I'm going to read most of the threads and I have an excellent tutorial from a vanagon syncro mechanic with simple picturals to follow. I want to keep it simple and am totally intimidated by this job but it must be done for many reasons now. I will be dropping it then working on repair/cleaning/whatever is needed and it probably won't go back on for at least a month. I don't know what I need to order/replace/fix until I get it down.

Any hints, technique help, etc.... would be greatly appreciated. I will have help for the parts that are too heavy for me etc... but basically I'm doing this. gggggggggrrrrrrroooooooaaaaaaaaaaannnnnnnnnnnnnn!
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Phishman068
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 04, 2013 4:22 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

If you're following along on a syncro tutorial to do a 2wd you will soon be extremely surprised......
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Ahwahnee
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 04, 2013 4:23 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Stating the obvious... you'll want the tank pretty near empty before you do the final draining.
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DAIZEE
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 04, 2013 4:31 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

no its not a syncro tutorial, he drew basic, simple pics for me. Yes I have been using up the fuel and have many large containers to drain into if needed. I will be inside a shop and will be able to use the hoist and tools and muscles too Laughing
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dobryan
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 04, 2013 4:31 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Daizee, What type of jack are you using to lower the tank? An ATV jack works great. A floor jack can be used if balanced well (BTDT). And it can be done by hand if you have a strong friend..... to do it.
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DAIZEE
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 04, 2013 4:36 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

have the shop's floor hydraulic jack but also a high stand to support. I'll be doing it but it'll probably be more like me helping the guys take it off. Once it's off, then I'll do all the cleaning, hoses, grommets etc...Yes the guys have spoiled me but I've earned thousands of credits over the past 6 mths. Wink
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dobryan
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 04, 2013 4:38 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sounds great! Very Happy
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https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=695371

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https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=746794
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wecm31
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 04, 2013 4:58 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I did mine laying under the slightly raised van....you are
well ahead of the curve with your setup.

The biggest problem I had was getting it back on!!! With the straps
mounted in their rear slot holes, make sure the tank is fully towards
the stern before raising that last inch or two and securing the strap
bolts. And try to save/reinstall those plastic wear pads that go between
the straps and the tank.
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markz2004
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 04, 2013 5:04 pm    Post subject: Re: Planned Fuel Tank Drop Reply with quote

DAIZEE wrote:

Any hints, technique help, etc.... would be greatly appreciated. I will have help for the parts that are too heavy for me etc... but basically I'm doing this. gggggggggrrrrrrroooooooaaaaaaaaaaannnnnnnnnnnnnn!


DUDE, you have 7,000+ posts. Can't you do a search? I think there are a couple of hints, techniques already outlined for you.
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theDrew
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 04, 2013 5:08 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I just went through this...few things....

be very careful with the brittle expansion tank roll over valves. They're $36/pop.

used vasoline when I was putting in all the seals and on the filler tube, make things pretty easy

while you have it out, check the fuel sender and probably replace the ground wire. I did not do this and am kicking myself cuase you can't get to it with the tank in. I did a new sender, but didn't check it and I think its the ground wire.

I used a atv jack to get the tank back in -- I think this made things pretty easy. (relatively)

For the hoses going to the expansion tanks, I tied them to string and fed those through the frame before hand, so once I got it into place I could just pull the string and get the hoses in the right spot.

try to be as clean as possible to keep contamination to a minimum to the fuel. Once I was done, I cycled the pump a few times and then replaced the filter.
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DAIZEE
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 04, 2013 5:09 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

feel better? I'm not a wrencher and I'm trying to learn and I respond well to encouragement and I've worked dammed hard to get these benefits so DUDE, I'm a duddette Laughing or would a 4/3 be more readily understood?
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geo_tonz
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 04, 2013 5:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Unless you know it's been done in the last few years go ahead and order a gas tank re-seal kit like GW or VC carry. CIP carries some of the parts but the kits from the other are better quality stuff and more complete. Make sure you order the right one for your filler neck type.

Also make sure you read up on the threads about how some tanks can easily chew up the fittings for the fuel level sender and result in a freshly resealed tank that leaks on it's first fill-up (like mine...gotta drop it again). There's a method to doing it right.

Also get a fuel line kit and do the rest of your fuel lines if they haven't been done already.

May as well get a filter while you're at it.

Once you have it out you can decide if you need a new tank, check the expansion tanks for cracks and decide if you want a new fuel level sender. Maybe you want to just replace the sender anyway...they do fail and they're not that pricey and you'd save on shipping ordering it with the tank reseal kit.

Not sure where you are in the Great White North but here on Van Isle I found Lordco (an auto parts chain) to be the cheapest for a tank if it comes to that. CIP was cheaper but then the shipping made it more.
GT
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Alaric.H
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 04, 2013 5:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

If you are taking a trip south in the future stop in VA and we will take it out and do the sender and vent lines 3 hr stop over at most.
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MayorMcCheese
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 04, 2013 6:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hardest part is getting it back in and getting the vapor lines hooked up. Other than that it's easy.
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cellerdoor
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 04, 2013 6:14 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

In the middle of mine. I would strongly consider a new tank or be ready to order one up. I wasnt experienceing any issues but after seeing the condition of the tank it made sense.

After draining the tank by removing the outlet and inlet lines it still had 5 gallons of gas left.

This is one third of the junk that came out of the tank

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Found a few pin holes and leaky vent lines (note stains all over tank)

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Do it and do it right
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dobryan
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 04, 2013 7:30 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Good point. New tanks are cheap and good insurance. I've replaced mine....
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Dave O
'87 Westy w/ 2002 Subaru EJ25 and Peloquin TBD

"To travel hopefully is a better thing than to arrive." Robert Louis Stevenson

MD>Canada>AK>WA>OR>CA>AZ>UT>WY>SD
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=620646

Building a bus for travel in Europe (euroBus)
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=695371

The Western Syncro build
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=746794
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DAIZEE
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 04, 2013 7:47 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for the offer Alaric but I'm not on road till April/May.

Good tips and hints. Yes I am prepared to order new tank if needs be but until I get it dropped I don't know what I need altho I do know I need new hoses to vapor tanks and I don't have a functional fuel gauge. I'm leaving myself lots of time for it being out of commission for now. I expect the worst case scenario so no surprises.

Having bilateral eye surgery in April or May so need to do it now. Shop only slightly cool, not warm and not cold.
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peasant
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 04, 2013 9:45 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Go for it! I am doing this job for the second time on another van, be careful with the roll over valves like someone else said. The nipples can be fragile and break. Often times the fuel expansion tanks top seals are bad. THey were on both the vans I did it on.

Do all lines and be sure to use clamps. If $$$ is tight and the tank is in decent shape, prep it as best as possible, leave the sender as is, like others said putting in a new one can cause leaks.

If funds are not an issue, do it all (tank, sender, etc.) just be sure to do it right or you might have to do it again. Also, Be sure use sealer of some sort(gasoline resistant) on the grommets etc.

Kayakwesty (sp?) write up on his site is good to review beforehand as well

Good Luck!!

Ohh Yea, If you have not done power steering lines and they seem rusty/leaky, now is a good time to do it, alot of the stuff is out of the way. There are some good threads on what exactly is needed. I am also doing that while the tank is out.
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rlamb
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 05, 2013 12:28 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I did mine last summer following kayak westy's tutorial here: http://www.kayakwesty.com/gastank.html

I took me more time than I thought it would, but wasn't too bad. His tutorial is GREAT! The cinder block was very helpful. The inside of my tank was totally fine, and I cleaned and painted the outside with bed liner. Definitely use Vaseline on the grommets when putting everything back together. I didn't have enough on there, and punched one grommet right into the tank when reassembling. It was a PITA - had to take it all out and fish the grommet out of the tank and reinstall. The gas resistant RTV sealant on the grommets is important too.

Be careful when reinstalling the fuel sender unit! http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=513681&highlight=fuel+sender+plastic
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 05, 2013 12:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I did one a few years ago, and my one regret is not testing the fuel tank sender for accuracy at the bottom of the range. Installed a new one, and didn't set this. In my case the result is my gauge stays on F for around 15 miles and shows E when I have 2.5gal left. Oops.

Make some wire extensions so you can connect it electrically with the tank beneath the van. Test for "E" since there's no fuel in it, and if needed quickly remove the sender, bend/tweak and re-check. Repeat if needed til perfect.

To fix it after the tank is all installed again is a hassle I don't want to deal with.

I'm doing another tank this Spring on a different van and won't forget this very important step.
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