TX-73 Bug Rebuild

[mrbigmax]

Regarding the fan shroud, the left side outlet on the shroud was modified by the dealer when the A/C was installed to clear compressor (at where the compressor used to be.) Otherwise, the left side would come out straight the same as the right side. The other holes in the shroud were for things such as spark plug wire clips, etc. The fewer the gaps and holes you have in the shrouding and the better you can seal the cooling tin around the sides of the engine, the cooler the engine will run. Here's a great tutorial about engine cooling and cabin heating. http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=434051

About the wiring on the coil. Yes, VW used the coil as a junction point to run +12 volt items. You should have one wire from the ignition switch supplying the +12 volts, one going to the transaxle to the reverse light switch and another going to the idle cutoff switch and then to the electric choke element.

[TX-73]

That's a terrific tutorial! I had done some additional research that underscores your comment about the coil being used for several taps. And yes, any extra holes in the shroud will be filled, I was also going to check fit of all tin pieces upon re-assembly to make sure everything fits as well as possible.
thanks
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[TX-73]

Engine's out, starting to bag and tag and make (rapidly expanding) parts needed lists, I divide the lists into general sections such as engine mech, cooling, gearbox, etc.

The plan is to remove parts, leaving the body on the pan, and initially focus on body and paintwork.
In the meantime it also gives me the chance to research and ID other parts I'm not sure about.

Alternator question please - I hope the pics can help me ID which alternator I have, I think it's an AL82 (internal reg). No legibe tag other than "remanufactured". I see some replacement alternators tagged as AL82, AL82X, etc. As long as I stick with the AL82 series and verify internal alternator will I be ok for replacement? thank you.

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[Eric&Barb]

What cooling fan size do you have? Inside width between the two discs that make up the fan body at outer diameter edge.
Using a 29 mm wide SP fan in a DH shroud will cause cooling problems. DH came out with 33, went to 34, and finished up with the best of 35 mm.

Also check the spacing between fan tin and the fan with Bentley info.

Need to have foam rubber seal over the cooler to seal it to the shroud. Cooler only works well with air passing thru it not around it.....

Make sure you have ALL DH shroud seals and tin pieces. Same with rest of engine.

When you strip engine down to long block it is a good time to retorque all the engine case and then head fasteners just as you would do if building a new engine. Amazing how loose those get.

Got thermostat and flaps??? Unless you live in the tropics they are required.

Get proper metal fuel line for less VW BBQ chance, and the left side shroud bracket for the metal line.
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In Stereo, Where Available!

[TX-73]

I will measure the fan as you described, don't know what's in there now. The Hoover tin, foam pad, and thermo flap assembly (including thermostat/bracket) are missing but will all be replaced. I'll also double check that all remaining tin is in place.
I had planned to retorque all fasteners, both the engine and gearbox are greasy, so I will also be checking and replacing all needed gaskets. Pushrods tubes and seals will be replaced too.
Next up is to remove the gearbox, then continue stripping down the car for body and paint. Most parts like engine refurbish will be fill-in work between main focus of repaint first.
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[TX-73]

Started taking out interior stuff last night, nice to have a very solid car to work on. I haven't found anything worse than a bit of brush-off surface rust below the floor mats. Dad had kept the battery in a cut-down plastic battery box, so the floorpan below it was just fine as was all the other pans and sheet metal. Mechanicals, etc will be fill-in work for now between primary goal of getting the car ready to paint, body won't be removed from the floor pan. Focus is stripping interior and exterior stuff for now and cleaning

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[TX-73]

More progress, interior is gutted, getting the mineral spirits out to clean up glue residue from carpeting, works great. Will leave a clean surface that can then be prepped for paintwork.
Plan is to paint (body-on) everywhere original paint is visible, including underhood and trunk. Fenderwells, underbody will be cleaned and simply undercoated.

Going to replace all of the wiring, my preference on these jobs is to use ATO-style fuseblocks. For convenience, I may get a replacement harness and modify it for the newer style fuseblock rather than build a harness from scratch.

I also like to use relays wherever possible, especially on vehicles that run the headlight load (amperage) through the headlight switch. Better to use a relay so the load routes directly throught the relay instead, easy to do if you're already doing new wiring. I may consider an HID bi-xenon retrofit but a REAL conversion with projectors, not the cheap DDM Tuning plug-in setup. I've done this before and it's worth doing it right.

I started to remove the original padded dash - its in reasonably good shape (couple cracks here and there) but wanted to get the dash painted with whatever final color I decide on. Slight problem in that it seems to be a bit delicate and stuck to the dash (all fasteners removed). It separates from the dash with very careful use of thin blade putty knife. I plan to replace it with version from Midwest or WW. Yes I know I can leave it but would prefer to replace it.
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[gooser]

i don't see relays mentioned very much on here but i agree, they are a good idea.

[TX-73]

A few more pics, not anything anyone hasn't seen before - another bug getting stripped down Still have to get the fenders off and remove exterior brightwork, etc but getting there.

The pics make the existing paintwork look a bit better than it actually is. Looks like the previous paint was a single stage enamel, what I plan to do is sand down to the original blue color and ensure that paint is scuffed up well. Then some blocking where needed, then a good primer/sealer, more blocking before primer and paint. I've painted a lot of vehicles and I prefer a base/clearcoat. Not doing a show finish but a nice color-sanded production level paint job. Haven't figured out the color or if I will do any 2-tones or graphics at this point. Gives me something to mull over while sanding

I'm also thinking whether or not I want to shave the front turnlight/rear taillights and do something different. I may not as I want to ensure the lights are visible and not too low. We'll see. I will be adding additional interior and exterior LED lighting very similar to what I've done on other cars for dome/footwell lighting and under-door puddle lights. I like the idea I saw about LED brake/turn lighting in the rear vent area below the rear window. I'm looking for an updated look with bi-xenon projector install and all exterior LED lighting, but want to retain the semblance of the original bug lighting design. Personal preference.

I will leave the windows in for the time being, old headliner will be just cut around the windows and removed. I'll do almost all of the exterior body prep, then remove the windows and finish any remaining work needed at the seal areas.

Next up will be some time with oven cleaner, degreaser and a pressure washer. The underside will be cleaned and will just get a coat of Blackshell or something similar, this is not a body-off re-do. Also need to break out some thinner to get the glue off the interior surfaces. Interior flooring will be primed and painted also with Blackshell. Blackshell is made by Rust Bullet, I've used their stuff and like it.

I did find some rust around the hood opening. Kind of strange to me that it was in this location since the hood is sloped, seems that water would run off. But it is what it is - some repair with the MIG and replacement metal will be needed. So far, this is the only place that I have found any rust (yet lol). At first pass, the rear vent areas and quarters appear to be solid, the car was kept garaged, but won't know the whole story until the paint is knocked down a bit.

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[Bjamo]

[TX-73]

Starting to hit the end of the teardown.
Except for the headliner, the interior is ready for clean-up, removed the dash pad too.

The only rust I found on the entire car was where water had been trapped by the original weatherstripping along the cowl and down the right side of the hood opening.
Along the cowl looks a bit worse than it really is, the rust is not all the way through and there's still metal under it. This is a pretty straightforward repair, not needing replacement sheetmetal.

The passenger side of the hood opening is fine.

Driver side not so fine.

I removed some Bondo from this side, evidently when the car was repainted they put a skim coat over everything to pretty it up. Bondo is not waterproof plus trying to coat rust will only result in rust
This side has some holes, so what I think I will do is to try to find a replacement section to weld in. It's not a tough repair but that's a better choice than trying to fiddle with pieces of sheetmetal, plus I want to ensure that the bead that retains the weatherstripping is in good shape. On this one, I will never be able to get it all cleaned out. So, time to look on classifieds or locally for a bug being parted out.

Overall, I think I came out ok in terms of rust on the car.
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[djkeev]

As you seek help/advice it is often helpful to know your location. If uncomfortable with a precise spot, give us a general geographic area, NYC, Boston, Miami, etc.

By knowing a region we can also recommend local ounces or helpful people.

It doesn't look bad, easily fixed! Enjoy!

Dave
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Stop Dead Photo Links how to post photos

Ghia
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=392473

Vanagon
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=6315537#6315537

Beetle
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=482968&highlight=74+super+vert

[djkeev]

FYI.......as you strip the car....KEEP EVERYTHING!
You may think that silly now, but you'd be surprised at the things you need later on. That little clip, screw embedded in old carpet, etc.

BTW.....I mean everything!

Dave
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Stop Dead Photo Links how to post photos

Ghia
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=392473

Vanagon
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=6315537#6315537

Beetle
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=482968&highlight=74+super+vert

[TX-73]

DJK, thanks for that, I added location to my profile, my oversight!

I've done numerous (non-bug ) restorations and yup I bag and tag everything. It all goes into labeled boxes and I also record whatever I buy as well. Plus pics

I've looked at lots of the project work on bugs here and agree this fix is pretty minor, especially when I see what a lot of the folks are faced with. I've fixed a lot worse! I will be posting progress on body and paint as I go along if it helps someone else.

Wife suggested a cobalt metallic blue that I think I will go with but I may add a thin body stripe of deep copper, interior tan(ish) tweed. We'll see!

I may also ask the moderator to change the name of the original post to reflect the 73 build.
thanks again.
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[TX-73]

The grunt work continues, yesterday was a session with oven cleaner, degreaser, and pressure washer. Initial cleanup of the greasy mess transmission and oily engine, plus the tins.
I found one tin that was cracked, easy repair with the MIG though.
I think that the oil cooler seals in particular were leaking on the engine along with the gaskets at alt stand, oil pump, not sure about the pushrod tubes. While I'm focusing on the bodywork/paint I will be considering how to deal with the driveline (repair/re-seal or replace).

I also found a replacement section for rusted driver side hood opening edge from a new friend lol. Chuck (Superman73) responded to my WTB ad, so I will post up progress as I replace that piece.

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[TX-73]

Interior clean-up. Not sure of this was factory or PO, but lots of glue. At least it cleans up fairly easily, in some spots I can peel it up too. Combination of mineral spirits, rubbing and wire brush works pretty well. Anything that is painted will be repainted, even if covered by carpet - that way I don't have to worry to about missing a spot, plus its just a better way to do a color change.

Front passenger footwell

Before and after pics of door sills

When its all cleaned up, it will be sanded, then I will apply a primer/sealer before painting.
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[TX-73]

A bit more cleanup on the interior:

Overall, it's pretty much a rolling shell at this point, ready to start doing some initial bodywork. Windows and fenders will be pulled after most of the body has been prepped-sanded and blocked to get window jambs and fenderwells prepped before primer. Trunk and hood are loose, just sitting there.

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[TX-73]

Front footwell area is now cleaned up, ready for a light sanding and prime/seal coat. There's also a hole that looks like an "owner mod" under the passenger side dash area that I need to patch up.

Now need to get the back half of the interior cleaned up

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[TX-73]

Back half of the interior is cleaned up, I did not see a need to go further than what you see since it will be covered with QuickRoof material. I did go over everything with a 3M pad as well as mineral spirits to get a clean scuffed surface.
I cleaned out the foam from the seam that runs horizontally under the back window, there was some discoloration of the metal but luckily no rust. I'll treat that area anyway since it's exposed now and easy to do.
The yellow lines indicate a couple of removable (gasketed) panels I will make and install in order to access that rear louvered shelf area above the engine compartment. I want to be able to get it scuffed but it will be a satin black, not final body color. The other reason that I want the panels is that I will install SMD LED stop/turn strips on bars mounted inside that louvered shelf area. SMD's are very bright and will be easily seen through the rear grille opening. I wanted some high mounted additional stop/turn lighting but did not want anything in the rear window.

All lighting on the car will be SMD/LED with headlights set up as bi-xenon projectors. I will modify the front/rear turns as needed to install the SMD's. That's later, just planning ahead. Right now, the focus remains on body and paint.
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[TX-73]

OK, interior is now ready for some light sanding at areas to be repainted. All other areas such as rear deck, roof, etc to be covered with headliner, noise barrier or carpet/fabric will be cleaned and left in original color. Dash will be painted along with anywhere where I'm not sure of exactly where the cover ends, such as the front footwell area. Of course all door jambs and exposed metal on the interior will all get primed/painted. Floor pans will be coated with Rust Bullet, POR, or Masterseries after the car is painted.

I started to sand the exterior a bit to see what I had to work with. Turns out the second paint job was applied right over the original paint, so it's pretty straightforward to sand down until I get into the original paint. If you use the proper sealer/primer, original paint that is simply faded and sanded to provide tooth is a good base, no need to go to metal. I'll get most of the body prep-sanded with 180 and 400 grit, then pull the windows and the fenders to get the seams done. Interior gets sanded with 400 grit.

Looking ahead at the rusty hood edge, I have a replacement section that will be welded in. I just did a couple of checks to see the alignment of the replacement piece and to decide where to make the cut. I decided that the cut would be located best on the flat area of the hood jamb. Arrow shows about where the cut will be and I will probably flange the replacement section to butt right up to the cut edge. This puts any repairs in a more hidden area rather than cut into the outside of the body. That cowl area luckily only had surface rust that cleaned up nicely, no need to replace any of it.

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