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TX-73 Bug Rebuild
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TX-73
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 09, 2013 6:23 am    Post subject: TX-73 Bug Rebuild Reply with quote

Referencing back to my first post about the beetle my dad gave me:
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=6434259&highlight=#6434259

I've had a chance to start looking at everything and it's really maddening to see what the local shops have done as far as "fixing" stuff. I've worked on and restored vehicles all of my life and I hate to see anyone, much less anyone elderly get taken advantage of. I now see a lot of stuff on this car kind of cobbled together, so time to get it right. The plan is to go through the whole car, using quality parts, and including a repaint.

So I'm starting with engine removal. I always take a lot of before pics and bag and tag things, this also lets me plan ahead for what parts may be needed.

As I started to remove parts I came across some things that I wanted to ask about from the VW experts. My questions are based on what is the best solution, not the cheapest Very Happy

Air Cleaner - this oil bath cleaner was just sitting on top, not really tightened down and just one cannister hose connected to it. From what I read, this looks to be form an older year bug? I was thinking to get the correct version with the paper element and of course re-attach all the proper hoses, including the emission cannister hoses.
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Carb - original was replaced with this H30/31 that looks like a mess. I also see that it's on an adapter? What would you do with this? Replace? Send to Tim at Volkzbitz for renewal?
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Distributor - appears to be a centrifugal advance only unit. I haven't opened it up yet at this point.

I would like to install aircooled.net's SVDA distributor, and I think that it will work with the current carb, but if someone has a better suggestion please tell me. I know that if I do this I need to tell Volkzbitz and aircooled.net the intended combo.

These air tubes to the shroud appear to be blocked off with engine freeze plugs? There's a box of parts in the car with new spiral flex lines that I think need to be installed.
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Coil terminals look like they were used as a power tap for everything in the engine bay, I don't think that's right?
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Alternator is going to be replaced, the shaft threads are stripped and I prefer a new/rebuilt version as opposed to re-tapping the shaft. It appears that the car originally had a generator, now has alternator with internal regulator. I was planning to get another alternator of the same type, recommendations on quality replacement?

thank you!
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Q-Dog
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 09, 2013 6:54 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I don't see anything "cobbled together" ... yet. Get a Bently service manual for your car, it will show you how most things are supposed to look.

Here are my thoughts on the issues you list.

Oil bath air cleaner is correct for up to about 1974 or 75 ... not positive of year but I'm sure you'll find the exact date of the change with a little searching here on theSamba. What year is your car?

H30/31 pict is typical generic VW replacement carb. Inexpensive. Easier to tune than the stock 34 pict, but gives you a little less top end at WOT.

009 centrifugal advance distributor is also commonly used to replace the stock distributor. It's not ideal, but it's cheap, which seems to be a deciding factor for most VW owners. The H30/31 and 009 combo work fine together, but not as well as the stock set up. 34 pict and 009 do not work well together.

Do you still have heater boxes? If so, you should remove the plugs on the shroud and install the air hoses. The heater boxes can overheat and contribute to heating the heads without air flowing through them.

On the coil, it looks like a couple of the wire terminal ends have been replaced. Otherwise it looks normal.

I run the stock generator on my cars. I used to have a huge stereo with 2 amps, active crossover and subs in my convertible and never had a charging issue or low battery.
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1975 Kombi
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 09, 2013 6:57 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Oil bath air breathers go up to 72 I think and then they are paper 73 and on. The adapter is to move the carb away from the Alt because the throttle linkage hits the Alt. If you had the generator you wouldn't need the adapter. For carbs go for an original German solex and rebuild it and match it to the correct original German distributor for you car.
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drs1023
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 09, 2013 6:58 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
I would like to install aircooled.net's SVDA distributor, and I think that it will work with the current carb, but if someone has a better suggestion please tell me. I know that if I do this I need to tell Volkzbitz and aircooled.net the intended combo.


I believe you will find that many folks will tell you that the SVDA and 30/31 combo don't play well together - not enough vacuum. Most will tell you that the 34 series carbs work best with the SVDA. I use the 34PICT and SVDA on my woods buggy now - recently converted from the 009.

Hacking and piecing together older cars is generally acceptable if you don't want to (or can't) spend the money to properly repair and restore them. I can't count the number of spliced wires, mismatched spark plugs, and baling wire fixes I have run across over the last 45 years.
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Q-Dog
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 09, 2013 7:08 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ialso noticed, that engine used to have an air conditioner compressor on it.
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gooser
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 09, 2013 7:09 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

drs is correct. 30/31 and a svda distributor don't go together well at all. but the svda that aircooled sells is supposed to correct the low vacuum problem. anyone have any comments on this particular combination?



if you suspect shoddy work on this engine just wait until you see what most body shops and owners do with rust repair.
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 09, 2013 7:30 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Paper filter came into use middle of model year 1973, my november 72 has an oil bath. Nothing wrong with either. Some say the paper filters clean better, some say not.

The distributor is a Mexican 009, works OK on my car, but a SVDA would probably be better.

You don't say how big the engine is, but if it is a 1600 it should have a 34 mm Solex. The misfitting of the flanges seems to indicate that you have a too small carb. I would get a proper PICT 34, preferrably rebushed and serviced. You should be able to get decent operation with the 009, but as said, save up for an SVDA.
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1975 Kombi
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 09, 2013 8:01 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Also you should keep this with your first post to keep all your stuff in one spot and then just keep adding concerns.
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TX-73
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 09, 2013 9:09 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks all for the help and expertise with this car. From your comments, maybe things are not as cobbled up as I had first thought. I agree about the history of older cars including things pieced together to work. But - I want to improve all that.

Yes, the heater boxes are intact, I will take a closer look at the exhaust after I get the engine out, in addition to evaluating if all of the tin is in place too.

From the comments, it seems that a combination of a 34PICT/SVDA would work well on this engine, but I do need to look at the alternator for any interference issues. I prefer to not use adapters on intakes if possible. I wonder if its feasible to go back to the original generator setup?
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=6440258&highlight=#6440258

As far as I see in the records, the engine is a 1600.

LOL from doing resto work before I've seen amazing "rust repair" done all sorts of ways!
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 09, 2013 10:01 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

As far as the oil bath goes, I think 73 got the paper element, but many people will argue that oil bath is better, they just went to paper to get folks to clean/replace the filter more often. The one you have there is a 72 only filter and has the connections you need for the charcoal cannister. there is a vaccuum controled thermostatic valve on the top to regulate the carb pre-heat. I think you can get replacements for it still, do a search on the forum for air cleaner thermostats and see what pops up. I seem to remember someone finding a replacement from another VW model, like the early watercoolds or something. Good luck sir, and Kudos for bringing pops' car back to life!
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TX-73
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 09, 2013 10:56 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

thank you! Yes that little bug deserves to go on longer Smile
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 09, 2013 3:17 pm    Post subject: Experts Reply with quote

I am currently running the H30/31 with the SVDA from Aircooled.net. When you order your distributor from them you have to select from among the carburetors listed as to which you intend to mate the SVDA to. I don't know what mods they make to the distributor for the 30/31 but I must say that the one on my bone stock 1600 DP works great.

As I related in another thread, I was hesitant to follow through with what the included instructions laid out: 42 degrees total advance at 3500 RPM with the vacuum line attached. At first I laid back on the timing, setting up as if I was dialing in a 009 and the performance was awful. But once I bit the bullet and went all the way the difference in performance was quite satisfactory.

Caveat: I have not yet taken the car on my "nemesis tour" which is a several miles long stretch of uphill freeway, so I can't report on what temp the oil will hit in that situation.
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 09, 2013 5:22 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

1975 Kombi wrote:
The adapter is to move the carb away from the Alt because the throttle linkage hits the Alt. If you had the generator you wouldn't need the adapter.


Not in this case, it's to fit the smaller 31mm carb to the 34mm carb manifold.
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TX-73
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 09, 2013 7:36 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I agree with the comment about the adapter, I've looked at a lot of engine pics with alternators and interference didn't seem to be an issue. My game plan is to get the rebuilt 34PICT and the SVDA distributor, and also get another 55a alternator rather than convert back to a generator. I've done a ton of rewiring, new harnesses, etc so I will also be rewiring this car as well.
I've not been rushing, just taking my time to look at stuff on the car, but I've got the shroud assembly off, will probably drop the engine out tomorrow.
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 09, 2013 8:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

TX-73 wrote:
I agree with the comment about the adapter, I've looked at a lot of engine pics with alternators and interference didn't seem to be an issue. My game plan is to get the rebuilt 34PICT and the SVDA distributor,



The only time there is clearance issues is when a 34pict3 made for an Generator car is used with an alternator.
The pump linkage hits but there a few bastardized hokey fixes to get around that.
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 10, 2013 5:57 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
The pump linkage hits but there a few bastardized hokey fixes to get around that

Instead of the offsset adapter, I elected to gently grind away some of the alternator case to relieve the interference point.
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TX-73
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 10, 2013 6:25 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I would do the same on the alternator case if needed, I don't really like adapters!
I wanted to ask about the fan shroud - looks like somebody made a modification to the left side air tube? Points outward and there's a small gap at the bottom of it, I think I will change the orientation and mig it in place. And of course remove the plugs.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Aside from a few holes that can be welded up before cleaning/repainting I think the shroud is ok? The fan turns fine, doesn't touch or wobble and the rear flap looks ok too.
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I will also make an inventory of the engine tin to figure out if I need to get any additional pieces. I saw where there were 2 homemade sheetmetal pieces. They may have worked ok but I want all OEM parts.
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Air cleaner - I've looked at info about them, my preference is to use a paper element VW air cleaner housing. From what I see I don't think this oil bath cleaner was OEM on the car.
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I guess I will keep this posting ongoing as build thread Smile
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 10, 2013 6:29 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

the bend in that fan shroud outlet is to alow room for an AC compressor methinks....it is OEM, won't affect performance to leave it be...
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79SuperVert wrote:

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TX-73
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 10, 2013 8:26 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

ah, that makes sense along with what Q-Dog mentioned:

"I also noticed, that engine used to have an air conditioner compressor on it"

I now understand better what I'm looking at.
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 10, 2013 9:15 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

You also have a second pulley ... for driving the compressor.
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