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"Fuel shut Off Solenoid" tab broke!
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opypr
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PostPosted: Sun Dec 23, 2007 8:32 am    Post subject: "Fuel shut Off Solenoid" tab broke! Reply with quote

I was removing the "idle air bypass" cable from my 34 PICT-3 CARB (the one that comes from the ignition coil), when I noticed that it came off with half of the tab. Which means that there is no tab for me to reconnect the cable to.
Could that "connector thingy" be replaced without having to replace the hole "fuel shut off solenoid".
Wondering also:
is the "IDLE AIR BYPASS CUT OFF VALVE" and the "Fuel Shut off solenoid" the same thing?

Thanks,
Opy Confused
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opypr
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PostPosted: Sun Dec 23, 2007 9:15 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just wondering...
Should I put this message in another section? I have a Split, but its about a Carb
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mandysbus
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PostPosted: Sun Dec 23, 2007 9:23 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

unscrew it from the carb and get another.........
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opypr
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PostPosted: Sun Dec 23, 2007 10:37 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I know I can buy a new one, but the question is, since it was working fine,
whether I can replace the "clip thing" only?

I found a webpage where they call it "electromagnetic cutoff valve "
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VW Vet
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PostPosted: Sun Dec 23, 2007 10:55 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Since half the tab is still there, solder a wire onto it with a disconnect a few inches down line from it.
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opypr
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PostPosted: Sun Dec 23, 2007 11:11 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
solder a wire onto it with a disconnect a few inches down line from it.

I don't understand what you mean...
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VW Vet
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PostPosted: Sun Dec 23, 2007 12:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Perhaps I didn't understand what you meant. When you say cable, do you mean wire? Are you talking about the electromagnetic valve that sticks out of the left side of the carb?
I thought you meant half the tab is still sticking out of the valve. If it is, solder a wire onto it. On the free end of the wire, crimp on a male connector which is compatible with the original wire's female connector.
Make the new piece of wire a few inches long.
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PostPosted: Sun Dec 23, 2007 3:25 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Anyone that has a box of spare carburators will have some spares of these.. Make a few phone calls..
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PostPosted: Sun Dec 23, 2007 7:22 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

All those names mean the same thing. It's a cheesy way of keeping the bus from "running on" with crappy fuel. Those guys are saying to solder a wire lead to what's left of your busted one and add a male spade connector to it so you're good to go again. It might be easier to get another one.
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j.pickens
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 24, 2007 9:03 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I usually just disable them.
Unscrew it, and you'll see the little piston which closes down when power is no longer applied. You just make it so it can't shut the fuel down by modifying or removing the piston. Depends upon the exact style solenoid you got, but its easy to figure out.
Then, you don't need any power to it.
If your engine diesels when you shut down the ignition, just put the gearshift in first with the clutch and brake depressed when turning off the ignition, then , as soon as you turn the key, keep the brake depressed, and release the clutch, thereby stopping the engine from turning and dieseling. It becomes second nature after a while.
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PostPosted: Tue Dec 25, 2007 4:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

j.pickens wrote:
If your engine diesels when you shut down the ignition, just put the gearshift in first with the clutch and brake depressed when turning off the ignition, then , as soon as you turn the key, keep the brake depressed, and release the clutch, thereby stopping the engine from turning and dieseling. It becomes second nature after a while.


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cdennisg
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PostPosted: Tue Dec 25, 2007 6:02 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just cut off the piston on the inside end of the solenoid (its usually brass and is easy to cut) and thread the body back into the hole. Don't forget to tape off or eliminate that wire to it from the coil. You don't need the cut off valve usually and if the car diesels when you shut it off, just either let it go till it stops or do as has been said already. Clutch in, shift into gear, foot on brake, release clutch to stop motor. It will not hurt anything and if you decide you want to put it back that way later, this will buy you some time till you can find a new one.

When these things fail they will cause your engine to run only off idle. I have had one fail while on a trip (back before I used to disable them on purpose) and it took awhile to diagnose why it would not idle. I just pulled it out and lopped off the piston. Bus ran great and I never looked back.
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SCZ9-1-1
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PostPosted: Tue Dec 25, 2007 6:26 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

My old carb was leaking in several different places and could no longer be patched with JB weld so I sent off a couple of old carbs I had lying around as cores to Chard's Carbs and had them send me a rebuilt one. The new one they sent had the electronic cutoff and at first it didn't work and had to be freed up by turning the set screw (located next to the wire tab) in and out again and that freed the solonoid. It still didn't run like my old one so I took out the electro thingymajig and put in the jet from my old carb (old carb did not have thingymajig) and engine runs fine with no dieseling except when engine is hot after a long run on a highway and even then I've never had to use the in gear cutoff method. I'm running a single port 1600 with a pict 30.
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volkscafe
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PostPosted: Tue Dec 25, 2007 7:21 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

j.pickens wrote:
I usually just disable them.
Unscrew it, and you'll see the little piston which closes down when power is no longer applied. You just make it so it can't shut the fuel down by modifying or removing the piston. Depends upon the exact style solenoid you got, but its easy to figure out.
Then, you don't need any power to it.
If your engine diesels when you shut down the ignition, just put the gearshift in first with the clutch and brake depressed when turning off the ignition, then , as soon as you turn the key, keep the brake depressed, and release the clutch, thereby stopping the engine from turning and dieseling. It becomes second nature after a while.


Agreed...Just unscrew it and cut the piston/plunger end off and screw it back on and eliminate the wire to it. You probably wont notice a difference from when it was hooked up correctly and fully functional. Everything else said of your bus not shutting off properly is getting confusing and probably will not need any figuring out...Should shut off when you turn the ignition off as normal.
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opypr
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 31, 2007 10:12 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

VW Vet wrote:
Perhaps I didn't understand what you meant. When you say cable, do you mean wire? Are you talking about the electromagnetic valve that sticks out of the left side of the carb?
I thought you meant half the tab is still sticking out of the valve. If it is, solder a wire onto it. On the free end of the wire, crimp on a male connector which is compatible with the original wire's female connector.
Make the new piece of wire a few inches long.


What should I use to solder it?
Embarassed
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Bub
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 01, 2008 12:07 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

uh...Soldering iron ?
Get one at radio shack for $8.
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opypr
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 01, 2008 12:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Bub wrote:
uh...Soldering iron ?
Get one at radio shack for $8.


Am asking because I was thinking of the heat while travelling, and don't have a clue of which material won't melt and make it come off again...

obviously, Im not an expert Confused
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codeMechanic
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 01, 2008 12:30 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

the plastic on the wires would melt long before the solder does

don't worry about it, solder it on , I just happen to be doing this for mine today, strange coincidence
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opypr
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 01, 2008 1:24 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks, codeMechanic.

I happen to own a Soldering iron.
What should I use to solder it with?

I have used it before with a "wire" type thingy that comes "looped", looks like silver (I know it is not), for electrical computer cables... Sorry that I don't know how it is called.

But, since we are talking Automotive motor, I guess it should be something different Confused
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VW Vet
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 01, 2008 2:02 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Go to Radio Shack and get some rosin core solder.
Heat the tab, melt on some solder.
Heat the wire, melt on some solder.
Put the two together, apply heat to melt them together.
If you have solid non-core solder, get a small can of rosin to dip onto the parts.
Do not use acid core solder for electrical work.
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