KrustyKamper 1977 Westy FI *** UPDATE ***

[NASkeet]

[Keith]

[ROCKOROD71]

Been a while since I've updated this thread. I'll post some pics later on but I've got a lot of the van stripped of the house paint used to put the trees on, revealed a few small bondo spots, a previous weld repair, and lots of OG paint/metal, which is nice. Also got the right rear corner and battery tray welded in.
some good:
-collected parts for complete exhaust restoration.
-got new cheap Brazilian door seals on to keep the water out (old Germans were leaking bad, will use Germans after painted)
some bad:
- Headliner failed, now sagging just as it warmed up this year, was fine last year. (might re-do with better adhesive, suggestions? or paint/stain. Was the birch there originally unstained? really bummed about this one, took a whole weekend to do)
-after leaving the bus in the elements with leaking door/windshield seals, I got a nice soft spot on the driver's side floor. Dog-leg section seems ok, just one spot where the cab floor hits the seam sealer on the dog-leg. Might not be too bad if I can get at it sooner rather than later. This, after I sanded down the cab floor, both sides, treated with rust converter and painted a few months back.
Seems all my efforts so far are failing or making things worse. Ima keep digging into this money pit though....

Hopefully I can get some pictures up soon...
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1971 STD BEETLE- DD-1st car, 1st love. keepin' it stock! 1600DP, Solex 34-3 Mexi Bosch SVDA Dist NOW w/POINTS
1977 WESTY "KrustyKamper" 2L FI

[Tcash]

- Headliner failed, now sagging just as it warmed up this year, was fine last year. (might re-do with better adhesive, suggestions? or paint/stain.
DAP® Landau Top & Trim High Heat Resistant Contact Cement
If you don't ever want it to come off.
Liquid Nails Paneling[/url]

[ROCKOROD71]

Thanks for the tip!
For future Sambans, Permatex headliner and carpet spray adhesive DOESN"T WORK SO HOT, at least on the Marine Vinyl I used, which was pretty thick. Held for approx. 1 year then let go upon New England's thaw. Maybe as the wood expanded/ contracted from moisture? Perhaps water sealing the wood before applying adhesive would help?
_________________
1971 STD BEETLE- DD-1st car, 1st love. keepin' it stock! 1600DP, Solex 34-3 Mexi Bosch SVDA Dist NOW w/POINTS
1977 WESTY "KrustyKamper" 2L FI

[ROCKOROD71]

long time no post. Most of what's been going on with my bus has been un-doing of former hacks, stripping paint, and making body repairs. I really thought 3-4 years ago that I'd have this rig painted by now, but the money to do it right has been in short supply.
I digress. Posting here today with a question on my fuel injection. I have recently been having trouble with it dying once it has warmed up, and running like shit. However I can get a good 10 minutes out of it running so I have been able to run tests, check for leaks, and do regular maintenance.
Made a breakthrough last night and got it to run indefinitely, at least 30 mins, before shutting it down myself, then it started again easily when hot, which it wasn't before. Anyhow during my battery of testing and poking and prodding I noticed something, and thats my question for today.
The vacuum hose going from the decel valve down to the rubber T that goes onto the brake booster, that hose is currently normal braided hose of the correct diameter (12mm?) that one would use for the EVAP cannister, or the oil breather hose on a type 1 engine.

This hose collapses pretty good when the engine is started. Air is still able to pass through the sides I would guess but the middle sucks in on itself. I guess this means it holds vacuum so thats good at least? As part of my testing I removed this hose while the engine was running and there was some hissing while removing it and the engine died once it was removed, so at least nothing is leaking there.
My question is, is it ok that this hose is collapsing? Should I order something like this instead?
https://www.belmetric.com/black-polyamide-hose-c-1...-6426.html
I assume this hose wouldn't collapse and it's rated to withstand temps up past 200* I looked through legit vacuum hose and there is nothing in 12mm, mostly smaller ID lines available. Same with rubber coated polyamide hose.
I appreciate any suggestions folks may have.
_________________
1971 STD BEETLE- DD-1st car, 1st love. keepin' it stock! 1600DP, Solex 34-3 Mexi Bosch SVDA Dist NOW w/POINTS
1977 WESTY "KrustyKamper" 2L FI

[TDCTDI]

Try grounding the wire going to the temperature sensor on the drivers side cylinder head & see if it runs any better.
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Everybody born before 1975 has a story, good, bad, or indifferent, about a VW.


GOFUNDYOURSELF, quit asking everyone to do it for you!


An air cooled VW will make you a hoarder.


Do something, anything, to your project every day, and you will eventually complete it.

[ROCKOROD71]

[busdaddy]

That hose is sized like that for a reason, its likely not related to your dying issue but when it's decel time you need the full flow. The Belmetric link isn't working for me, but NAPA sells a 1/2" brake booster hose IIRC, that's only 1mm bigger and should work with some brake reservoir line sleeves or heat shrink on the fittings first.
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Rust NEVER sleeps and stock never goes out of style.

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[ROCKOROD71]

[TDCTDI]

[ROCKOROD71]

[skills@eurocarsplus]

if it's old an spongy try to replace it with whats there.

I use the breather hose you posted on all of my *GASP* brake booster stuff and have NEVER had it collapse.

that said, your link shows what, 15mm o/d which would be a bitch to neck down to 12mm...

if you want plastic, mk1-3 and some 4 had hard plastic booster lines, and the 12mm stuff will slide over it (I had to do this for a 16v swap)

the only time I have seen that stuff collapse is when it has been exposed to oil.
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[ROCKOROD71]

[williamM]

For a temp fix, / testing- you can feed a screen door return spring (or such) inside and see if it helps. I know- don't be in such a hurry- just get the right hose and don't worry bout it.
_________________
some days I get up and just sit and think. Some days I just sit.

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Don't step in any!

[ROCKOROD71]

...and the appropriate hose would be.....?
Not is a hurry at all, still have some things to do here and there before I attempt driving this thing any distance. However, if I had come to a consensus yesterday on an appropriate hose It would have been ordered already and in my hands tomorrow.
Busdaddy (if you ever look at this thread again) is the 1/2" hose you suggested 1mm bigger than 12? or the stock 15? I guess I could take a spare decel valve with me to try it, but really, I would like to get a proper size metric hose if I can.
_________________
1971 STD BEETLE- DD-1st car, 1st love. keepin' it stock! 1600DP, Solex 34-3 Mexi Bosch SVDA Dist NOW w/POINTS
1977 WESTY "KrustyKamper" 2L FI

[furgo]

Just to be clear, you're looking for the specs of hose C in ratwell's diagram, right? That is:

I asked a similar question a while ago here:

https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=8480061#8480061

IIRC the consensus was that it was vinyl hose. If you need the missing info from ratwell's page (the inner diameter, right?), here's what I've just measured on a spare one I've got at home:

- OD = 15 mm
- ID = 13 mm

[ROCKOROD71]

Well, KINDA hose C. right now it is one hose running from the T to the decel valve, so basically one LONG hose D in Ratwel's diagram, using a short metal coupler to mate it ti the brake booster T.
The hose I am using collapses so I am trying to figure out a suitable hose to replace it with. I could use the vinyl hose like you show if I knew what to buy, what OD (outside diameter) that tubing is.

Can't really trace what I did to get an improvement in my running situation. I replaced the TSII sensor first and that had basically no effect. then I adjusted the valves, point gap (my points were virtually NOT opening) changed the oil, tightened every clamp on every hose I could, tightened every screw, nut, bolt I found loose, pulled relays and checked fuses for damage, and started cleaning grounds and electrical connections. Somewhere in there it started running for longer than 10 minutes. No idea what did it but NONE of this can possibly hurt and its free to me. We'll see how far I can get before I have to run to someone for help.

If you have measurements on that hose I would greatly appreciate it, thanks so much.
_________________
1971 STD BEETLE- DD-1st car, 1st love. keepin' it stock! 1600DP, Solex 34-3 Mexi Bosch SVDA Dist NOW w/POINTS
1977 WESTY "KrustyKamper" 2L FI

[furgo]

[ROCKOROD71]

Furgo, thank you so very much, the diagram is great. I think I can get what I need now and have this as reference for the future, shopping around for a proper tube per factory specs.
My takeaway with these FI engines is that you have to really just go through them step by step when they give you these weird troubles. It is not particularly hard or difficult to understand but it is TEDIOUS. More so than a simple type 1 with a carb, where it is air, fuel, spark and go. On these it's like "oh, that one electrical connection that is buried under the plenum is a little corroded? COOL your engine runs like shit now"
In particular I was very naughty and drove this shitbox through an entire winter in Boston, where they not only salt the roads but use this liquid brine that basically melts everything it touches, including metal. Needless to say there is a lot of cleanup to do, its been slow going.
I'm sure you will get to the root of your problem, just keep knockin things off the list and keep posting in your thread, you are getting great results! See what happens when you get that TSII replaced.
PS- where in Europe are you located?
_________________
1971 STD BEETLE- DD-1st car, 1st love. keepin' it stock! 1600DP, Solex 34-3 Mexi Bosch SVDA Dist NOW w/POINTS
1977 WESTY "KrustyKamper" 2L FI