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Pitfalls or tips on replacing the 2-4 header?
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floggingmolly
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 24, 2013 1:41 pm    Post subject: Pitfalls or tips on replacing the 2-4 header? Reply with quote

Hey all,

Well, I got a nice big crack (actually all the way through) my 2-4 header. The one on the passenger side is broken all the way through. Looks like a pretty involved process as you need to remove all of the exhaust, probably the oil filter?

Does anyone have any tips before I get started? My header pipe has been ordered from Van Cafe and should be here tomorrow, so looks like a weekend project.

Any other good things to check out, service, or replace while I've got these things out.

Thanks
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wecm31
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 24, 2013 2:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The part of all exhaust work that freaks me out is how seized and rusted the bolts can be.

I have looked at my connections to the cyl heads and am concerned that if I ever try and untorque them, I could easily break a stud/bolt off in the head.

Lots of penetrating oil in repeated applications would be my only suggestion.
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campism
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 24, 2013 2:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Soak everything with PB Blaster before you begin to encourage rusted fasteners to come loose. Expect bolt/stud breakage and subsequent heartache. I'd sawzall off the old stuff to give better access to what remains, and I wound up removing a lot of anything in my way, but I was replacing the main 4 pieces (not the cat and muffler, though I took 'em off).

Consider yourself lucky if you can replace just that one pipe without collateral damage and with only skinned knuckles and blued air. Keep little ears away from the job site.
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Wellington
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 24, 2013 3:26 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

reassembly with brass nuts
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bluebus86
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 24, 2013 6:52 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Wellington wrote:
reassembly with brass nuts


....and copious amounts of anti-sieze. Self locking brass or copper nuts are best, lock washers wont hold up to the heat, they will loose their springiness.


Also beware of the aftermarket (Dansk brand) exhaust stuff. I dont fit well, has restrictive interior welds (pipe to flange welds are internal, over sized fillets, restrict the flow)


I returned all the Dansk parts, junk in my opinion. I instead got NOS parts from VW (they told me I got the last of one of the pipes that was in North America, and that was a few years ago). The NOS stuff fit perfectly.

The Dansk stuff interfered with the engine block, it was horrible.

If you cant get the NOS stuff, you should consider removing the original, have it thoughly cleaned in and out, and have the crack(s) welded up.
The Orignial stuff fits so much better, it is worth saving in my opinion. I kept all my old original exhaust stuff for future repairs.

I also bought a Dansk built repalcement muffler for a 356 car, same thing, JUNK, the big fat bugger welds that held on the flanges had a near 25% reduction in flow area verses the original. I spent a lot of time with the grinder to fix, and even then I still had near a 15% reduction in area over stock. I couldn't grind anymore, cause the pipes were poorly formed.

DANSK is the European word for GARBAGE.

save your original stuff, Cracks can be repaired correctly (if not rusted out) by someone who knows how to do this kind of work. Complete cleaning in and out, grind the crack and weld her up. This will save you lots of time and effort trying to beat the Dansk JUNK into shape, if (and that's assuming a lot) you can beat that shit back into shape. Expect exhaust leaks with Dansk, the flanges didn't line up either.

The good folks at Van Cafe told me that to get the Dansk shit to fit, it often needs heating and beating. They gladly took the returns, they are very customer oriented.


good luck.
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SteveVanB
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 25, 2013 6:46 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I got my whole system from eVWparts.
http://www.evwparts.com/vwparts/VanagonExhaust/VanExhaustKit1.html
Not sure if it was DANSK brand. I had none of the fitment issues others gripe about. Maybe I was lucky.....Maybe they felt sorry for me 'cause all the studs/bolts broke off in the heads Shocked Definately pre soak with some Kroil. Don't be afraid to use some heat too..... Wink
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Greystar
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 25, 2013 7:42 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I just did my 2-4 pipe which cracked by the collector, leaving the flange end in a rusted heap of collector metal(87 syncro). I had to cut off the 1-3 pipe and clean up the collector to reuse. Last summer I had bought parts that I wanted to replace and now was the perfect storm of part replacement hell.
Water pump, all rubber hoses connected to it. Repaint all metal hoses connected to it, some leaked so they got fresh gaskets and clamps. I knew I had a loose stud so I had bought a bottom tap and some 50mm long bolts which I cut the heads off to use as studs. Had to tap 3 holes. Someone asked this about a month ago so I added these: 2 oil pressure switches and rear motor mounts. Took off the oil filter, ac comp. loosened the power steering pump and muffler. Before starting I also had a hardware kit from VC. About the only thing I left off the list was the oil pump seal. Good luck with your 1 manifold job!
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floggingmolly
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 26, 2013 7:57 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks everyone for their recommendations. I did use plenty of PB blaster and everything came off with no problems (other than the tight space issues), no rusted bolts or anything. Thank god for SoCal weather. What SUCKS is that as I went to put the new header on, I notice one of the metal tabs that holds a bolt for bracket mounting was way too tilted (one of the two by the #4 header) so I tried to bend it back to the proper direction and it snapped off in my hands!! ARGH! Evil or Very Mad

The angle it should be at and the way it should have been attached:

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The way it was attached with no clearance to add a bracket or a nut!:

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What it looks like now: Sad

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My original. This is what it should have looked like:

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So needless to say I'm not installing that one. It's not a Dansk but the header doesn't look like the best quality and the weld job on that one bracket was total shit. So now I have to wait til Monday to get a new one shipped. Crap!

I started another thread to see about how to remove my A/C compressor. the one pivot point is really perplexing me. If you have any ideas on that, please post in that thread. Thanks!

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=6472552

Scott
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Greystar
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 27, 2013 10:15 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Tough luck on your bracket. Is that to hold the push rod tube cover on? In hindsight you could have cut a few threads off the bolt or just leave the nut off.
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floggingmolly
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 27, 2013 10:29 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

No, it's a point where one of the rods/brackets comes down at an angle to support part of the exhaust. I hear what your saying about the bracket but I couldn't leave it pointing in that direction. The rod/bracket has to come down at a certain angle to meet up with the point where it connects to the exhaust.
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bluebus86
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 27, 2013 12:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

would it be possibel to wld up your original pipe? How bad does the crack look. If the broken bracket and bad weld is any indication, you may find even more probelms with fit.

good luck
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floggingmolly
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 27, 2013 4:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I was thinking the same thing. Unfortunately the crack is sort of a double crack, a split. It's completely broken through and then there is a second crack. No chance of welding it.
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floggingmolly
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 31, 2013 7:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well, everything went on pretty well. However, the new 2/4 header and the old 1/3 header don't align exactly so where the collector attaches to the 2 pipes it's not a great fit. I had to try and get all 4 bolts at least on, and then tighten them each down slowly to try and pull all of the pipes together and in alignment. It looks OK, but there is a slight leak because the lining up is not prefect and the pipes are slightly tweaked. Not great quality for sure.

I'll probably disconnect them and try to maybe put in two gaskets at each pipe instead of one and see if that helps. You can feel the air sneaking out, so I'm a little concerned at smog time what they might say.
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bluebus86
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 31, 2013 7:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

floggingmolly wrote:
Well, everything went on pretty well. However, the new 2/4 header and the old 1/3 header don't align exactly so where the collector attaches to the 2 pipes it's not a great fit. I had to try and get all 4 bolts at least on, and then tighten them each down slowly to try and pull all of the pipes together and in alignment. It looks OK, but there is a slight leak because the lining up is not prefect and the pipes are slightly tweaked. Not great quality for sure.

I'll probably disconnect them and try to maybe put in two gaskets at each pipe instead of one and see if that helps. You can feel the air sneaking out, so I'm a little concerned at smog time what they might say.


kind of expect that with the aftermarket crapola. On mine the front most pipe that crosses under the front of the engine hit the engine case. The flanges did not line up with the heads.

Just wondering. maybe the original pipe can be sleaved where you have the really bad cracks. even if metal is missing, with the right technique, it should be able to be salvaged. that way it will fit with no leaks

Your right about problems with smog test failure and exhaust leaks.
Often you will fail before they even run the test, cuase an exhuast leak will fail the visual inspection. the leak will be detected on the smog test machine also, as it wil see too much Oxygen, and the leak will confuse the Oxygen sendor which will then command the ecu to deliever more fuel, and you will have a rich running condition.

would you mind posting a photo of the cracks that casued you to do this repair? I am curious on the failure, like to see how them cracks look.
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