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Engine swap question 1600dp in a 63
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GB2S
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PostPosted: Wed Feb 06, 2013 7:16 pm    Post subject: Engine swap question 1600dp in a 63 Reply with quote

I am putting a 1600 dp from a 73 into my 63 and thought I would be a little proactive and ask what am I going to need to get this engine in. I thought I would ask before I have the engine balancing on a jack and it's 5 minutes before the part store closes.
A little back ground there is currently an engine in it, unfortunately its out of a 58, but I do have all the tin.
The engine going in is completely stock. The only modification is I have the 66 6volt flywheel so I don't have to grind the tranny..
So whats the installation process, and what modifications to the engine tin will I have to make, or anything else.

Thanks in advance

Geoff
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bugguy1967
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PostPosted: Wed Feb 06, 2013 7:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

For a 63? Nothing. Earlier ones might need breastplate mods.
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Ojai63dbl
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 07, 2013 5:58 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have a dual port 1600 in my '63. It slips right in.



Only things I can think of:

1) I assume bug is 12V now, 12V coil, lights etc. based on the 66 flywheel.

2) Make sure the clutch pressure plate is correct for your tranny. The late bugs used a tranny with a metal collar that takes a different pressure plate. Its a simple swap of he pressure plate . If you use wrong one you cant engage clutch. This has happened to me when I forgot to look on a used engine swap to get a car rolling.

3) you mount the voltage regulator on side of engine - your regulator on 58 was on genie

4) Heater box hose connections (rubber bellows) might be different size for opening if you run with them
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ludsbug
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 07, 2013 6:59 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I own a '63 bug. The wife and I removed a 1600 dp '71 engine. Found no problems in removing engine, but when replacing the 1600 dp back, issues occurred. Only three of the four engine mount bolts had been in place before. I was bound and determined to get all four in. Took a while, and some bruised knuckles but all four bolts went in. The tin and the engine seal is a tight fit but it works.
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andk5591
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 07, 2013 7:21 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

You DO have the tin for the 1600, correct? 1200 is different.......
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Rosie 65 bug - My mostly stock daily driver.
Woodie 69 VW woodie (Hot VWs 7/12).
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Dangermouse
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 07, 2013 1:24 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

It fits but is tight as a duck's arse. I find it helpful to remove generator pulley and valve covers/bails on rhs, just so you can get it rearwards enough to slide forward.
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GB2S
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 07, 2013 4:36 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks everyone, I really do appreciate it.

Geoff
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SgtSamy
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 07, 2013 4:42 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ive read that you need to trim the 1600 breast plate to put a 1600 DP in an old Beetle. Is this really needed or it just fit tight?
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bobnorman
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 07, 2013 5:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I put a 1600 in my '63 years ago. I believe it was out of a '73 it was an AE engine as I recall.

I had no trouble with it. I did have to grind my bell housing which was probably the hardest part, as I didn't want to take too much down, so I would grind a bit, try it, take it out, grind some more... did that about 4 times. And I switched to a semi-automatic starting motor (no bushing problems).

When you're putting it in, don't for get the throw-out bearing! I was tightening the last bolt on mine when I noticed it sitting on the bench...mocking me.
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