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Max Welton
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 11, 2013 4:43 pm    Post subject: Rear Drums? Reply with quote

This weekend I installed a fresh set of shoes on the rear of my 68 and found that one of the drums is warped. Our local ACVW guy could only find one drum up in Denver. I would rather replace both drums together.

So, who can recommend a source of quality type-3 4-lug rear drums that they have used recently?

Max
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rhyno811
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 11, 2013 5:29 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I need a set too. I'm only finding them on jbugs. Dont know the quality though.

http://www.jbugs.com/product/311501615FBR.html?Cat...-1972-1974
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Erik G
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 11, 2013 5:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I got real lucky once and bought a set on eBay from a regular retailer. They were cheap and I expected junk but they came as old never used German originals, probably a buy out of an old independent parts house
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 11, 2013 6:05 pm    Post subject: Re: Rear Drums? Reply with quote

Max Welton wrote:
This weekend I installed a fresh set of shoes on the rear of my 68 and found that one of the drums is warped. Our local ACVW guy could only find one drum up in Denver. I would rather replace both drums together.

So, who can recommend a source of quality type-3 4-lug rear drums that they have used recently?

Max


Max, hubby says you really need to look for either an NOS set, or a pair of good used ones. I only say that, as the cast iron reproductions are machined off center. Look for a pair/set of 66 to 73 type 3, or 69 to 74 Type 4 (same part).
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Max Welton
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 11, 2013 6:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks Sue. Got a line on one NOS drum, hoping there's a second.

Max
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Max Welton
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PostPosted: Sat Feb 16, 2013 6:27 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

So the NOS drum arrived today. For a moment I thought the screw-up fairy had been at work. Then I remembered about the 2-piece drums. Whew. Wink

So, I'll be putting this on tomorrow. Is it a simple matter of removing the two hex-screws to separate the two parts?

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Brent
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PostPosted: Sat Feb 16, 2013 9:56 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

rhyno811 wrote:
I need a set too. I'm only finding them on jbugs. Dont know the quality though.

http://www.jbugs.com/product/311501615FBR.html?Cat...-1972-1974


X2 on what Sue said. I had those aftermarket ones turned 3 times before they were round. They're garbage and not worth it. I found some good used, blasted the rust off them, and had the brake shop just clean them up, taking as little material off as possible.

Max - is that a Type 3 drum? Reason I ask is the one's I've seen have kind of a scallop cut into the outer rim in 4 places with the part number stamped in-between.
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Max Welton
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PostPosted: Sat Feb 16, 2013 10:04 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Seems to be a type-3 drum. It certainly looks like the one I am about to take off the car.

Max
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PostPosted: Sun Feb 17, 2013 8:04 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Max Welton wrote:
So the NOS drum arrived today.
So, I'll be putting this on tomorrow. Is it a simple matter of removing the two hex-screws to separate the two parts?
Max


Yup. Somethimes those screws don't like to "just come out", so you might need to add a little heat. You can also use a chisle on the edge, to "crack it loose", then it'll come right off. BTDT before. Sometimes the drum tries to rust to the hub too, so keep that in mind.
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Max Welton
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PostPosted: Sun Feb 17, 2013 12:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well ... the "NOS" drum is also not right. The friction surface does look like the drum has never been used, but there are high and low spots as I try to adjust up the brakes. So I put the old one back on and this week I will have my local shop cut the new drum.

One more thing to the NLA list: new replacement drums that can be used without first fixing flaws in manufacturing. Rolling Eyes

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Max
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 18, 2013 3:46 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I get mine from O'Raleys or Advance. They have been good for me so far. RockAuto have them listed but I have not used their yet. Good luck
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ronbug73
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 18, 2013 6:44 am    Post subject: drum Reply with quote

are they the same as front of super beetle?
or type 2
thank you
ron
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 18, 2013 12:01 pm    Post subject: Re: drum Reply with quote

ronbug73 wrote:
are they the same as front of super beetle?
or type 2
thank you
ron


No, and No.
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Bob 65 Notch S with Sunroof
71 Notch ...aka Krunchy; build pics here;
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=249390 -been busy working
64 T-34 Ghia...aka Wolfie, under construction... http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=412120
Tram wrote:
"Friends are God's way of apologizing for relatives."
Tram wrote:
People keep confusing "restored" and "restroyed".
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Bobnotch
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 18, 2013 12:04 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Max Welton wrote:
Well ... the "NOS" drum is also not right. The friction surface does look like the drum has never been used, but there are high and low spots as I try to adjust up the brakes. So I put the old one back on and this week I will have my local shop cut the new drum.

One more thing to the NLA list: new replacement drums that can be used without first fixing flaws in manufacturing. Rolling Eyes

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Max


Like Brent said, it really doesn't look like a German type 3 drum. It almost looks like a close copy, sold as NOS. That's why Sue suggested good used as an alternative. Wink
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71 Notch ...aka Krunchy; build pics here;
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=249390 -been busy working
64 T-34 Ghia...aka Wolfie, under construction... http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=412120
Tram wrote:
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Tram wrote:
People keep confusing "restored" and "restroyed".
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Max Welton
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 18, 2013 12:55 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yep. It was advertised as NOS. Not old enough I guess. Wink

Max
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 22, 2013 8:01 am    Post subject: frozen bolt Reply with quote

Back story: Thought Id get something accomplished with the kids out of town and replace the ebrake cables finally. Got the car lifted up onto stands, removed the drivers back wheel and set to work removing the two hex bolts that I assume hole the Brake drum in place. One came out just fine,...the other, not so much. After several hours what I'm left with is a completely stripped bolt head that the allan wrench just spins in and a headache.

So I figure my options at this point are:

1. To take a Dremel with a metal cutter and saw out a notch in the bolt head to use a flat head to remove bolt

2. Use the Dremel to take off two sides of the bolt head to allow to grab it with a pair of vice grips

3. Drill that bad boy out with a lefty drill bit.


Suggestions?
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 22, 2013 9:34 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Read Bobnotch's first post in this thread - heat & a chisel.
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Mike Fisher
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 22, 2013 9:44 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Cut a notch in it with a cold chisel and it will back out. Leave them off when you put it back together since the USA never used them!
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raygreenwood
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 22, 2013 6:24 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

There may be nothing wrong with the drum. That is an NOS type drum...but looks like the aftermarket ones made in teh 70's by Wagner.

If the drum is not seated perfectly flat on the stub....it will act as if it has high and low spots. You need to check the inner opening to make sure it has the factory chamfer that allows it to properly seat around the inner bore....yes..realizing that type 3 rear stubs are slightly different on teh business end than type 4's which also used this drum...but the pronciple is he same. If teh center plate is held away from the stub face even by as much as say...more than .005" to .008"...it warps the drum when you tighten the bolts.
Ray
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PostPosted: Sat Jul 27, 2013 11:42 pm    Post subject: frozen Reply with quote

Figured Id let you all know whats working,....or NOT as the case may be.

Ive used most a can of the hig end wd-40 for loosening bolts,...forgot what its called. as well as a good portion of a can of Liquid Wrench

Ive also used a cold chisel and knocked out a notch into the head of the bolt and used the largest flat head at Lowes I could find to try to get it to back out

I even tried cold chiseling around the edges, figured it might loosen it up, worst case figured Id break off the head of bolt and have to drill her out

Dry ice is easier to come by for me than a torch,....so tried dry icing the bolt to get it to shrink even a smidge,..just enough to loosen something

Also have gotten REALLY good grip with a vice grip and tapping wrench with a hammer to loosing things up. Considering that the head of the bolt is rounded, I can get a few good taps in before the wrench slips off

I've also tried filing down a side of the bolt head to allow better grip with the wrench.

None of this has worked that bolt hasn't so much as budged.

At this point, I figure I'm just going to have to get some drill bits and drill her out,....the bolt is toast anyways,...and I just want to get this job done. I have yet to take of the other wheel,...so who knows,...I might have two more frozen bolts to deal with after this one.
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