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Californio Samba Member
Joined: May 17, 2007 Posts: 1300
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Posted: Thu Feb 14, 2013 2:45 pm Post subject: |
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I didn't want to modify the lid, either. The only part of the Tiico that doesn't quite fit is the alternator (using the A-3 bracketry). It rubs the deck lid a little, so I cut a small hole and put a billet aluminum cover on it. No rise in lid height. |
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Vanagon Nut Samba Member
Joined: February 08, 2008 Posts: 10367 Location: Sunshine Coast B.C.
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Posted: Thu Feb 14, 2013 2:55 pm Post subject: |
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Robw_z wrote: |
..... with an ABA crossflow head on top, complete with a modified intake manifold to clear the engine cover.
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I've been pursuing this too. If there was a feasible way for the average shade tree to cut and match (send out pieces to weldor) the ABA lower plenum to a cut up Digifant intake, doing this might "kill two birds"; provide a way to keep the ABA long block stock @ 50º and possibly allow for a lower engine lid mod if using an ABA @ 15º. The idea being to run something akin to a longer runner SRI type manifold.
I need to get parts in hand though. This is all my imagination running wild at this point.
Neil. _________________ 1981 Westy DIY 15º ABA
1988 West DIY 50º ABA
VE7TBN |
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Californio Samba Member
Joined: May 17, 2007 Posts: 1300
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Posted: Thu Feb 14, 2013 3:09 pm Post subject: |
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You might ask this question on the Yahoo Tiico groups list. Lotsa smart people there who do this kind of thing. |
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hans j Samba Member
Joined: May 06, 2006 Posts: 2714 Location: Salt Lake City UT
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Posted: Thu Feb 14, 2013 3:33 pm Post subject: |
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A crossflow ABA head on a Tiico is totally possible. A crossflow head flows more stock than a well ported counterflow head too. It would be very easy to cut off the lower intake manifold just after the injector ports and weld up new tubes to a log manifold. Then just put the throttle body and intake air temp sensor on the log and route your inlet pipes.
I personally like the 9A/3A blocks over ABA too. I like the flat torque curve Plus they have oil squirters for the pistons. No reason to choose a forged crank over a cast crank, not unless you are going to turbo it. With my 9A engine, I also used 1.8T rods since they are much lighter than the stock rods.
The Tiico is a hodge podge of parts, all crammed together. They all have a vibration unless you get them balanced. Yeah some brackets need upgrading so they don't brake, but I like the kits. I have an ABA that I was going to put in mine but ended up just going straight to an ALH TDI.
Above anything else, get your internals balanced no matter what you build. I won't build another engine for myself or friends without it. _________________ 1986 Canadian Syncro Westy TDI - 1989 Syncro Single Cab - 2001 Audi S4 - 1981 VW Caddy ABA - 1980 VW Caddy EV - 1973 VW T-181 |
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Christopher Schimke Samba Member
Joined: August 03, 2005 Posts: 5390 Location: PNW
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Posted: Thu Feb 14, 2013 3:37 pm Post subject: |
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Robw_z wrote: |
If I ever do a conversion it is very important to me not to modify the lid, not 100% sure why, I'm just like that.
-Rob |
I used to be the same way. I was very adamant about not raising the deck. However, I really wanted the 1.8T conversion which requires a very mild deck lift. I didn't really like doing it, even as it was being done, but I have to be honest and say that I have never once even noticed the small amount of change since the conversion was completed. I'm not sure that I could ever bring myself to raise the desk a radical amount, but I have discovered that my complete aversion to a raised deck was somewhat unfounded. Just sayin'! _________________ "Sometimes you have to build a box to think outside of." - Bruce (not Springsteen)
*Custom wheel hardware for Audi/VW, Porsche and Mercedes wheels - Urethane Suspension Bushings*
T3Technique.com or contact me at [email protected] |
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geodude Samba Member
Joined: May 24, 2012 Posts: 372 Location: Sacramento
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Posted: Thu Feb 14, 2013 4:18 pm Post subject: |
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I had a 1.8 bored out to 2.0 running Cis-e injection in my old van with bigger than stock tires and an aircooled transmission. Ran great, no issues, for 100K miles all over the country. Only stopped using it when I had a combination of a tree falling on the van and a terminal rust issue that snuck up on me as I lived near the ocean at the time. Still have the engine and tranny and plan on doing another I-4 conversion to my current van. I really liked the I-4, simple, easy to do, and many fewer issues than the WBX. I think the trick is using injection from a US car so you aren't dealing with some hodgepodge of parts that may or may not work well together and might be hard to get a hold of, which seems to be the Tiico problem. I really want to do a 1.8T install and I'm thinking of doing an AEB install using some of the diesel bits I used on my original conversion. _________________ 1988 GL Camper
1991 Multivan — the basket case |
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Jake de Villiers Samba Member
Joined: October 24, 2007 Posts: 5911 Location: Tsawwassen, BC
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Christopher Schimke Samba Member
Joined: August 03, 2005 Posts: 5390 Location: PNW
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Posted: Thu Feb 14, 2013 5:03 pm Post subject: |
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Jake de Villiers wrote: |
Christopher Schimke wrote: |
I have discovered that my complete aversion to a raised deck was somewhat unfounded. Just sayin'! |
Is that in a Westy or just a hard top van? |
What do you mean JUST as hard top van? Just kidding!
Hard top in my case, but even in a Westy, the minor amount that the lid got raised could very easily be compensated for with foam additions to ease the transition and probably never noticed when sleeping. Paul (VWhead) claims that the raised height isn't noticeable even with the stock bed foam. _________________ "Sometimes you have to build a box to think outside of." - Bruce (not Springsteen)
*Custom wheel hardware for Audi/VW, Porsche and Mercedes wheels - Urethane Suspension Bushings*
T3Technique.com or contact me at [email protected] |
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mellowslow Samba Member
Joined: July 31, 2009 Posts: 278 Location: Vacationland
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Posted: Thu Feb 14, 2013 5:32 pm Post subject: |
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Dig the new FAS website:
http://www.foreignautosupply.com/
These guys have engineered solutions to all the Tiico problems. Very far from "hodge-podge".
No harmonic vibrations from a raised deck lid either.
They also solved sound problems by utilizing the stock waterboxer intake.
Plug and play new wiring harness = reliability.
I have handled and admired the quality of these parts in person. I would not hesitate to put one of these engines and my van. It is the cleanest installation I have seen.
These parts are in their shop and ready to go. Their customer vans are traveling the country with 20 mpg+. _________________ '87 WBWE FAS Gen V |
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tristessa Samba Member
Joined: April 07, 2004 Posts: 3992 Location: Portland, OR
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Posted: Thu Feb 14, 2013 6:57 pm Post subject: |
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Installing an adjustable sprocket and advancing the cam timing 8-10 degrees on my counterflow ABA-hybrid helped the low-end low-speed torque quite a bit. Third gear is good from 25-60MPH now, where I used to have to wind out 2nd to 35-40 before I could shift.
It's one of the better things I did aside from the engine swap itself. |
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Beetsport Samba Member
Joined: January 08, 2005 Posts: 475 Location: Sacramento, CA
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Posted: Thu Feb 14, 2013 8:02 pm Post subject: Re: VW Inline-4 low end failures? |
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Californio wrote: |
Hey all,
I have a Tiico conversion, and I'm trying to decide what to replace it with. My concern is mostly with the lower end problems. I go way out there off road and don't relish the thought of throwing a rod like it did last year...
Anybody have experience/anecdotes with low end failures on I-4s? I've heard of a lot of problems within the Tiico community but was wondering about 1.8 turbos, Jetta conversions, and all the others (VW only.)
If the newer ones ARE reliable, I don't mind buying a new long block from FAS. Power is not what I'm after, just reliability.
Anyone have stories to tell?
thanks! |
We have never had an internal mechanical failure on any 1.8T engine. We have however removed 4 Tiico engines with cracked blocks. _________________ '90 Syncro Westy 1.8T with 180hp 174 torque, CA safe!
http://H2oVanagon.com
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=217285 |
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Jake de Villiers Samba Member
Joined: October 24, 2007 Posts: 5911 Location: Tsawwassen, BC
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Posted: Thu Feb 14, 2013 8:12 pm Post subject: |
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Christopher Schimke wrote: |
Jake de Villiers wrote: |
Christopher Schimke wrote: |
I have discovered that my complete aversion to a raised deck was somewhat unfounded. Just sayin'! |
Is that in a Westy or just a hard top van? |
What do you mean JUST as hard top van? Just kidding!
Hard top in my case, but even in a Westy, the minor amount that the lid got raised could very easily be compensated for with foam additions to ease the transition and probably never noticed when sleeping. Paul (VWhead) claims that the raised height isn't noticeable even with the stock bed foam. |
Keep your shorts on, I've got a Grey hard top too, Chris!
I'm pretty sure the Princess that I share my life with would notice the intrusion into her mattress...that raised deck lid is much bigger than a pea. I don't need to hand her any ammunition! _________________ '84 Vanagon GL 1.9 WBX
'86 Westy Weekender Poptop/2.5 Subaru/5 Speed Posi/Audi Front Brakes/16 x 7 Mercedes Wheels - answers to 'Dixie'
@jakedevilliersmusic1
http://sites.google.com/site/subyjake/mydixiedarlin%27
www.crescentbeachguitar.com
www.thebassspa.com |
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MidwestDrifter Samba Member
Joined: June 13, 2012 Posts: 769 Location: Kicking Around Australia
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Posted: Fri Feb 15, 2013 11:57 am Post subject: |
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The ABA block can be used with most (all?) 8v I4 heads. I have a ABA block with digifant 8v head (converted from CIS) in my van. Fits completely under the deck lid. Using diesel mounting bits, and bell housing, the only custom pieces are the exhaust, and the intake tubing.
If you have a good engine minus the lower end, I would consider just swapping an ABA block in. You would need to get an adapter for the distributor, a block off plate for the crank case breather, and a spacer for the exhaust. I am not very familiar with the Tiico engines, so some sheetmetal from the drivers side wheel well might need to be removed. The only major consideration is the compression ratio. If you don't have a knock sensing ignition you will need to lower your compression (piston swap or milling). _________________ 2004 Dodge/Mercedes Sprinter (Custom Camper)
2000 Jetta TDI
1982 Diesel Westy W/ ABA I4 hybrid (Sold)
Epic Road Tripping since 08/05/12 | http://VagariesAbound.blogspot.com/
My Current Build | http://sprinter-source.com/forum/showthread.php?t=41215 |
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tristessa Samba Member
Joined: April 07, 2004 Posts: 3992 Location: Portland, OR
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Posted: Fri Feb 15, 2013 1:45 pm Post subject: |
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MidwestDrifter wrote: |
The only major consideration is the compression ratio. If you don't have a knock sensing ignition you will need to lower your compression (piston swap or milling). |
I "stacked" head gaskets to lower the C/R and it's been working fine, though the mere mention of doing so will undoubtedly give some people fits. I figured if people can stack gaskets, use ARP head bolts (or studs) and run 8-10PSI of turbo boost, I should be just fine to stack gaskets, use stock head bolts and *no* boost.
Once you figure the cost of two ABA multi-layer-steel head gaskets, a can of Permatex copper spray and the time involved -- plus dealing with skeptics telling you it can't possibly work -- you might be better off getting a thick copper head gasket from SCE to lower the compression. Stock ABA is .062", for reference... |
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MidwestDrifter Samba Member
Joined: June 13, 2012 Posts: 769 Location: Kicking Around Australia
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Posted: Fri Feb 15, 2013 2:41 pm Post subject: |
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tristessa wrote: |
MidwestDrifter wrote: |
The only major consideration is the compression ratio. If you don't have a knock sensing ignition you will need to lower your compression (piston swap or milling). |
I "stacked" head gaskets to lower the C/R and it's been working fine, though the mere mention of doing so will undoubtedly give some people fits. I figured if people can stack gaskets, use ARP head bolts (or studs) and run 8-10PSI of turbo boost, I should be just fine to stack gaskets, use stock head bolts and *no* boost.
Once you figure the cost of two ABA multi-layer-steel head gaskets, a can of Permatex copper spray and the time involved -- plus dealing with skeptics telling you it can't possibly work -- you might be better off getting a thick copper head gasket from SCE to lower the compression. Stock ABA is .062", for reference... |
Now that I think about it, Black Forest industries sells a thicker head gasket to lower the compression ratio a full point. I guess its often used for turbo applications.
http://store.blackforestindustries.com/spahespaba4c.html _________________ 2004 Dodge/Mercedes Sprinter (Custom Camper)
2000 Jetta TDI
1982 Diesel Westy W/ ABA I4 hybrid (Sold)
Epic Road Tripping since 08/05/12 | http://VagariesAbound.blogspot.com/
My Current Build | http://sprinter-source.com/forum/showthread.php?t=41215 |
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