GoWesty 2.4 install and suspension rebuild

[jetpoweredmonkey]

[jetpoweredmonkey]

One more thing to say about the GW stainless exhaust, it is noisier than stock. I don't mean out the tailpipe, but the tubing is thinner than the OEM VW pipes and tends to make kind of a tinny noise. To be fair, the Dansk pipes do it too.

If I had my way, I'd like it if they were made of heavier gauge tubing like the originals to get rid of that noise, but it does save a few pounds. Whether that is of any use on a two ton rolling brick is debatable.

I took the Vanagon and its 2.4 on a bit of a road trip this weekend. Either I'm getting more comfortable exercising it or it's breaking in a little, but either way, I swear it has picked up some more power. Now that I has some miles on it, I might set the cruise at 60-65 indicated for a stretch. At one point I had the cruise off, looked down and we were going 75 with lots of pedal left.

I did 500 miles, oil was at the same level before and after the trip. The oil cooler is doing its job well, too. Once warmed up on the freeway, the pressure pointed at 50PSI and stayed rock solid the whole way. That little Mocal thermostat works a treat.
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1991 Westfalia 2WD

[jtenright]

Sounds like the 2.4 is treating you well. I have 19k on my 2.3 from GW and have a similar very small leak at the case seam as you mention. Also like you mentioned, it does not leak while sitting in my garage, but after driving and parking I will get a few drips on my garage floor.

That would be my only complaint, but honestly a few drips on a car almost 30yrs old is not bad at all if that is your biggest problem. For example my 2001 Audi A4 1 which has a bulletproof 1.8T leaks more than my WBX!
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87 Westfalia, GoWesty 2300, WBXexhaustSS, 16x7.5 GW Wheels, South African "Big Brakes", 2WD Lift Springs/Bilstein, Truckfridge, Solar.
2001 Audi TT Quattro 1.8T 225
2001.5 Audi A4 1.8T Quattro, SOLD as original owner to fund my Westy Dreams
87 Toyota 22R Longbed Pickup SOLD

[HoustonPhotog]

[insyncro]

[jetpoweredmonkey]

Good call, Dylan, I've been thinking about that. One to add to the rainy weekend project list.

The tinny sound makes that nice smooth waterboxer sound a little cheap. It wasn't!
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1991 Westfalia 2WD

[jetpoweredmonkey]

Update on the GW 2.4 as I've just done some service and inspection ahead of a big trip.

Today I installed NGK BP6ET plugs. I had been running the Bosch (W7CC?) plugs that came in the engine. The idle has always been stable but maybe not the smoothest waterboxer idle I've ever heard - and it was so on my old 2.1 as well. I should probably pop the top off the AFM and clean it up, with 160K miles on it, it's probably got some gunk on the wipers. Anyway, the BP6ETs didn't really improve the idle at all, but they sure seemed to sweeten up the transition some and I swear it picked up a bit of power. The engine has about 6000 miles now and the original plugs were getting a bit rounded off, so that probably explains the improvement. I did notice that I could get a light ping at WFO after installing the BP6ETs, so I retarded the timing just a tiny hair and took care of that.

Otherwise, I gave the engine a bath, and aside from the very small case seam leak it's had since new, it is still totally oil tight and looks as good as when I installed it. Ditto the GW stainless exhaust, it's looking great and still no cracks or leaks. I found that the coolant level had dropped just a hair and poked around until I found some dried coolant residue around the coolant level sender on the pressure tank. Tightened it up and will keep an eye on things. No evidence of any leaks elsewhere.

After I first did the install, I was chasing a rubbing/scraping noise that sure sounded like a belt but wasn't. I finally figured out that issue a while back, somehow I had managed to overfill the ATF. Duh. It doesn't take much to change the fill level in there. The ATF must have been cavitating or something - I hope I didn't hurt the trans. It seems no worse for wear. I drained and refilled and the noise has gone away. The old ATF looked fine, and I pulled the fill plug for the final drive and it's still full, so it's not a fluid transfer problem. I had a very minor leak at the big o-ring that seals the front section to the final drive, this seems to have dried up by itself, I was probably supposed to soak that seal in ATF before installing, eh?

Changed the oil a few more times and now I think I'll settle down to a normal oil change routine. I am running Valvoline VR-1 20W50, I did a bit of reading up on the zinc/flat tappet issue and decided I'd better stick with an oil that has a bit more zinc, which this does. I chose this oil because it's reasonably priced and commonly available. It's sure hard to wade through all of the oil B.S. out there. Oil consumption seems to have slowed considerably and with a 1000+ mile trip ahead of me, I should get a good idea of how it's doing for sure.

The GW gear reduction starter is still cranking away like new, and the Powerflex suspension bushings are still silent. I still hate the Bilstein HD shocks with the lift springs and would like to try the GW sport shocks. The HD just don't have the damping to keep pace with the springs.

Stuff related to my rebuild/install that I would NOT recommend includes the non-German front transmission mount from Van Cafe. It's still working fine but shows a lot of cracking in the rubber already . Ditto the Lobro CV joint boots which are also showing deep cracks - damn! That is a greasy and unpleasant job. I will see if I can get some OEM ones from Volkswagen this time. Disappointing.
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1991 Westfalia 2WD

[jetpoweredmonkey]

Here she is over on the beautiful California coast near Jenner. Check out those tasty steelies...16x7 Mercedes C-class spare wheels, Nokian WRCs.

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1991 Westfalia 2WD

[HoustonPhotog]

looking good!
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Abel Longoria
VanAlert App for Vanagons/Buses | Texas Vanagons | My Vanagon Build Thread | Follow Me On Instagram | Vanagon-centric Stickers Available Now

[jetpoweredmonkey]

It's been a long time since I've updated this thread, but I've got the van out for some checking over before a 1500+ mile trip to the PNW this summer, so here's the skinny. The engine has about 14,000 miles on it now (from memory).

She passed smog again back in October with no problems. Here's the report. Annoyingly, California has me listed as a gross polluter since she failed smog with the old 2.1 due to a burned valve. As a result, it appears that I now have to do a smog check annually instead of biannually. If that happens again this year, I'll call the referee and see what can be done. Nothing like being penalized for doing the right thing.

I am still running Valvoline VR-1 20W/50. I haven't been on any long trips this year, so I don't have a good feel for oil consumption, but I think it is still using a bit. I'll get a better idea after running up I-5 for many hours in the coming weeks. I still have a small leak from the bottom rear case seam, but it hasn't gotten any worse. I'm going to try cleaning the joint thoroughly and applying some Elring Dirko sealant before the trip.

I've always had a mildly rough idle issue even back with my old 2.1. I am fairly sure it's an AFM problem. Some time back, I popped the lid of the AFM and found that there was a voltage glitch right at the idle position. I moved the wiper onto a fresh area of the track, and that solved a small off-idle stumble but did not improve the idle. Since then, I've noticed that the idle seems a bit rougher, especially within 30-60 seconds of start-up, hot or cold. With the big trip imminent, I decided to do a tune-up hoping that it might solve the idle issue. Although the ignition parts were new with the engine, I chose to replace everything a bit early to see if it would clear the rough idle. I put in a new correct Bosch coil (the old one was the original), plug wires, cap, rotor and NGK B6ES plugs. The cap and rotor showed carbon tracking. Everything else looked good. Plugs looked great across the board.

While I had the plugs out and AFM off, I installed a new alternator/ECU harness from T3 Technique. There was a measurable voltage drop (<1V) from the alternator to the ECU power point in the firewall wiring case. The new harness solved that problem. I used Deoxit on all of the connectors while I was in there. I also performed a leakdown test. Cylinders 1-3 showed about 2% leakdown. Cylinder 4 showed 12%, not good. I put things back together and she ran exactly the same, so I went for a 20 mile drive and came back to check the hot leakdown numbers. #1-3 were still at 2%, #4 was now at 5%. I'm not sure what caused the high leakdown initially, though the engine had been sitting for a while, and I had turned it over by hand a few times - maybe something was hung up. Cold leakage sounded like it was going past the rings. All seems fine now.

After all of this, I put the timing light on it, timing is set to 35 degrees of total advance, which puts the TDC mark at the case seam with everything plugged in and hot. Within 30-60 seconds of initial startup, hot or cold, the idle just sounds crummy, it's not surging at all or fluctuating very much, but it ain't smooth. The TPS adjustment is confirmed good at the ECU. I found that while this is going on, the timing is wandering about 10-15 degrees at idle instead of the usual ~5 degrees that I would consider normal. I can't think of what would cause this other than a wonky reading from the AFM, like the flapper spring is weak and causing some fluctuation until the system damps itself out. If I put the (automatic) trans in gear, the idle is better. It does not seem to be down to the Hall sender because I get a strong induction signal on all four wires and there is never a miss. The AFM and distributor are about the only two items in the engine bay that have not been replaced. If anyone has any thoughts, I'd be grateful!

In addition to the tune-up, I decided to splash out for some fixes and upgrades to make the trip a bit more pleasant and to support our dedicated Vanagon suppliers. From T3 Technique came the alternator wiring harness and a set of Rockford CV boots.

Van Café supplied a set of Lobro CV joints, bolts and washers, and a cookie. The old ones are original and they were not looking the best when I put them back. I am now getting a pretty regular clicking out of at least one of them. This is one job I'd very much rather do at home than on the road. I have zero faith in most of the new parts that are now available, but I'll give these made in Italy Lobro CVs a shot - especially considering they are the only game in town these days. The new CVs are quite stiff. Two of them had the ball cages installed backwards. I corrected that and worked them by hand a bit and they all feel acceptable now. Fingers crossed that they will be a long term fix, I'll get them installed this week and drive them a bit before the trip.

From Bus Depot is coming a new skylight kit - nice that they make a kit available with all grey parts for late model vans. Also, a right side front OEM style mud flap, a new water tank sensor, some small interior bits like the galley cabinet check strap, some new German front door window lift channel seals to stop a bit of wind noise, and a luggage rack bag to carry my Pakboat folding kayaks.

From GoWesty arrived a set of grey aftermarket curtains. These are fantastic! My old Westfalia curtains were looking dingy, they probably just need a good wash, but I'll save them for posterity. The GW curtains are thick, heavy, and keep light out much better than the Westy curtains. They really look nice. Somewhat annoyingly, the curtain ties came without the snaps installed, but that wasn't a difficult job. I think the price is good for what you get. I also picked up a GW camper hookup kit to replace my worn-looking originals. The new hookups are nice, and no more annoying key for the water tank. While I was at it, I put in a new filler hose to the water tank. And the final item for the trip is a 2" memory foam mattress pad - holy crap, the bed is WAY more comfortable. So much so that I even sprang for a nice new blanket and pillows. The mattress pad fits well and you can still get the rear cabinet door open without moving it. Can't wait to drink beer and catch some Z's in my Westy in a few weeks!

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1991 Westfalia 2WD

[jetpoweredmonkey]

Speaking of crummy parts - I have been dealing with a very slow disappearance of coolant. The cooling system is 100% new. The new "expensive" German made pressure reservoir leaks around the level sensor. I'll try sealing the threads and o-ring with silicone, there's not a heck of a lot else I can do there.

I found the cause of more coolant disappearance when the leak had the courtesy to show itself right in front of me this weekend. The brand new coolant temperature sensor installed in the brand new OEM thermostat housing is leaking. There is little or no pressure on the sensor behind the clip, you can reach in and turn it by hand. Either the o-ring went bad or it was the wrong size to begin with. I called the dealer and VW will not supply me with a good one, so it's a crap shoot again with junk China parts. All of the FLAPS are only selling the early/Syncro style thread-in sensor, even for 86-91 2WDs. I'm not sure what's up with that, but I can't use that sensor. I'll try another new junk sensor and if that one starts leaking, I guess it's time for a Syncro or GW thermostat housing. Annoying!
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1991 Westfalia 2WD

[ohhorob]

[jetpoweredmonkey]

That's good to hear - looking forward to a two year break from smog!

I fooled around with the Digifant a bit more last night and I think I made some progress in tracking down my slightly rough idle issue. There is a good thread below regarding tuning the AFM:

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=356377

I disconnected the oxygen sensor and found that the idle improved somewhat. When I installed the 2.4, I had done the CO adjustment based on the thread above - I'm pretty sure - but checking it last night, I found that it was set very lean. Either I didn't check it after installing the 2.4, or something has changed since I set up the new engine. My O2 sensor is fairly new and has a stable voltage output when checking with the VOM, so I don't suspect an issue there. I found that with the O2 disconnected, the voltage reading was very low, around 0.1V. When I turned the CO screw clockwise (closed), the idle immediately improved. Fully closed, the idle sounds much better and the O2 voltage reads 0.8V. After making the adjustment and reconnecting the O2 sensor, you can hear the ECU leaning the mixture again and the rough idle returns, though not as bad as it was. This could explain why my emissions numbers are so low, the CO screw was probably not in the ballpark.

Transition from idle is better now, and it gets even better with the O2 sensor disconnected. This leads me to believe that there may be more gains with some AFM tweaking. It would make sense that the 2.4 wants a bit more fuel than the 2.1. In any case, I'm happy, the van is running a bit better already and I am confident that I'm on the right track now. I'll take further discussion over to the AFM adjustment thread above.
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1991 Westfalia 2WD

[VanPerson]

@jetpoweredmonkey We just just installed a GW 2.3 and dealt with your issue exactly. The idle appears overly lumpy - seemingly almost like a vacuum leak would cause. On cold startup much smoother, then a couple minutes later starts rocking back/forth in the engine compartment. Checked for vacuum leaks with carb cleaner and propane both, verified charcoal canister and valve operation. New carb. Ran through Digifant pro training. Replaced all of the FI components over the last couple years already, but re-tested them anyway. New injectors, pump, filter, regulator, O2 sensor, O2 sensor harness, etc. Checked the harness and ECU tests, swapped in a spare ECU. I mean we SCRUBBED this thing I could go on, but basically been through it with a fine-tooth comb, prob three times.

My mixture screw was only 1.75 turns out. I recently cleaned up the AFM (adjusted wiper position), already installed connector fix. I watched the O2 voltage with analog meter, was up in the .9 to 1v area. So I turned the screw out about 7 turns to bring the voltage around to spec. HOLY MOLY, the hesitation off idle (that seemed intermittent) is now 100% resolved. We had just taken this into DEQ and it was VERY LEAN. So I'm assuming now it is where it needs to be mixture-wise at idle.

I think the key was getting the mixture proper, and the idle speed screw turned in a bit too, to compensate.

However, it still idles very lumpy. My experience with custom cams in V8s tells me this is how it is. Lopes a bit on idle, but runs strong. Sounds like a dragster, but rocks back/forth like it's missing a cylinder almost.

I attempted to inquire with GoWesty if their larger displacement engines idled that way and should be an expectation, and they totally dodged the question (via email). "Yes, just use baseline settings, and read this tech article to answer FI or running issues." Oh, oh, oh okay. Sheesh.

I can certainly see how the 88' Digifant FI is unable to handle the larger displacement based on the ECU internal spec maps for a 2.1. That's understandable. I'm merely just trying to determine if that is the case, or if I'm somehow missing a vacuum leak somewhere. Dipstick? Nope. Booster? Nope. Emission sys? Nope. Pushrod tubes? Nope. And not the other usual culprits either.

So I think I'm going to live with it. Frankly it sounds rather badass, and it runs like a Banshee down the road!

Let me know, how did yours turn out? Iron it out, or taking my 'live with it' approach?

[jetpoweredmonkey]

I made some improvements to the idle, did all the same things you did, but it's still a little lumpy. I also played with the AFM but would like to try a new one (or rebuilt one) someday to see if it gets any better. Mine does still smooth out a lot when unplugging the O2 sensor, so I suspect you're right, that the base idle map is probably a little out for the 2.4 vs 2.1. It's not a big deal, I just like to have things perfect, but it runs fine and has no transition issues or anything.

My van has been in hibernation for most of the last two years, nothing serious, just a bad power window, so I parked it, got busy with a new job, and now it's all full of boxes of parts that I've been collecting to finish all the little stuff I never sorted before. Front heater core, new stereo, rear USB ports, etc.

One of the many boxes contains a Techtonics chip which I'm eager to try. Hoping it might help a bit with the idle and add a little to the midrange. Would also really like to try some more modern injectors as I think that will have a positive effect as well.
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1991 Westfalia 2WD

[VanPerson]

Recently upgraded to the GW injectors just prior to our 2.3 install. One of our stock 2.1 injectors was melted. So in our case, doesn't appear to have a bearing on the idle issue.

Really interested to hear about your chip results! You should probably get to that soon right?

[jetpoweredmonkey]

Taking some time off this month and the Westy is at the top of the list!!
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1991 Westfalia 2WD

[jetpoweredmonkey]

Dragging this old thread up from long ago, but it's my thread and I can do what I want! My Westy has been hibernating for the past several years as my life became increasingly busy, and I am now in the process of restoring some balance, including having a functional camper again...

One of the power window regulators had packed up, so I decided to park the van and deal with that, then strip out the dash to restore the heater box and while I was in there, tidy up all the other little things that needed tidying, including installing a clutch pedal cluster for a planned future manual conversion, plus a new set of Bilstein XHD shocks (replacing HDs). The dash project wasn't really too difficult, but dang...there are a lot of details to attend to and the heater box rebuild is at least a full day job the first time around. Whew!!

Lots of improvements have been completed, and I took the van out for a vintage car drive with friends on NYD 2023, accompanied by a motley crew of old cars, but really looking the part next to a BMW E28 and a 944. She ran great, and the new shocks have absolutely transformed the handling in a rather incredible way. In fact, I would say my Westy now handles like a proper Volkswagen for the first time in its life. Here is my personal recipe if you want your van to handle.

I installed Powerflex bushings everywhere a few years back. For the money, and compared to the junk rubber bushings available in the aftermarket, they are the only way to fly (urethane, regardless of brand). The suspension bushings did not make much difference to handling, but the steering rack and swaybar bushings made a massive improvement in steering feel and responsiveness, and would be the first place to start along with shocks if the rest of the suspension is in good shape. I am using an Addco oversized swaybar, which I bought prior to the T3 Technique bar coming on the scene.

All of the above in combination with appropriately rated 16" tires has left me with a Westy that, while not completely immune to crosswinds, is now massively more stable under all driving conditions, and I can place the tires on any line I choose without wallowing all over the road, even at speed in stiff winds, as proven by a drive up the windy (wind, and curves!) California coast last week in a genuinely harsh winter storm. The XHD shocks were the single biggest contributor by far, but all these bits add up to a great feel, and in combination with better brakes, I now have a vintage camper that does not leave me feeling exhausted at the end of a long drive on technical roads. On the drive home on I-80, there was a strong crosswind all the way from Vallejo to Sacramento, but instead of working against the van and sweating inadvertent lane changes the whole way home, it's now easy to simply hold steering pressure against the wind and the drive feels entirely predictable. Freakin' awesome.

I have two suspension upgrades left to go. One is a set of T3 Technique steering rack stiffeners, and the other is their front swaybar with Chris' solid end links. I don't think there are any more bolt-on improvements available and I also believe that those two items are going to take the handling to yet another level of solidity. I may need to pry off the VW badges and replace them with Porsche...

Couple of other tiny upgrades to report on back toward the engine. First is an adjustable voltage regulator from Prancing Moose. Somewhere along the way I added a Gowesty alternator harness kit which beefs up some of the high current connections, and I had also scrupulously cleaned all the grounds and most of the electrical connections across the entire van. As a result I already had 14V at the battery, but that's now at 14.5, which gives the Digifant ECU a little more voltage to work with. Some people have reported that this regulator made their van idle better and I believe that. Personally I did not see much difference, but it was an inexpensive experiment. I'll carry the standard Bosch voltage regulator on board as a spare. Remember, if you have a big voltage drop to the battery, the adjustable regulator is not a complete fix, and any dirty connections or worn out wiring should be dealt with in conjunction.

https://www.prancingmoose.com/AdjustableVoltage.html

Now for the cherry on top, another inexpensive part I now wish I'd installed the day I bought the van, a Techtonics Tuning EPROM for the Digifant computer. These are about $100 and folks, I am here to tell you, this is a transformative little part for anyone who likes to tune and enjoys driving a great-performing vehicle. Especially for owners of bigger displacement waterboxers, I can't recommend it enough. It completely eliminated the ragged sounding response at tip in, where the engine always had a little flat spot, making slow speed driving unpleasant. It smoothed out the bumpy return to idle. It added a clearly noticeable boost out of the hole and right across the midrange where we all drive this engine, and the throttle pedal feel is now kind of unbelievably more linear. It often felt breathless before, and I kept wondering to myself if I should try a rebuilt AFM since everything else was in perfect spec. Now it hits smooth, hard and strong when you ask for power. I mean, it's still an antique waterboxer, but wow, a great running one!

On top of all those minor but very welcome improvements, the engine simply sounds and feels better in every regime. It had good power before, but now it feels polished, and it has that lovely, stirring boxer beat that always seemed to get lost beneath the poor factory fueling. All of that was a problem even on the 2.1, but got a little worse with the 2.4, not surprisingly.
I've got a couple of early 2000s era fuel injected motorcycles, which happen to have support from users for pulling, editing and uploading fuel and timing tables, and the factory tables on every bike I've looked at were really quite bad. Just a little bit of smoothing work made each of those bikes run incredibly better and I believe the same simple phenomenon is at work here. Why these vehicles are released with such poorly executed fuel tables, I'm not sure. It really takes the crisp edge off an otherwise well set up engine.

The EPROM upgrade is available below and is simple to install, just take your time and use static precautions to protect your ECU. I also have a Vintage Speed high torque Y-pipe waiting to be added, and maybe someday a set of Marco Mansi's ratio rockers. My butt dyno says the +5hp claim feels realistic, and I'd be surprised not to get another +5hp boost after adding those additional parts. Oh and by the way, I threw caution to the wind and isntalled the chip BEFORE attempting California smog. She passed just as squeaky clean as usual, and that's on the rolling road dyno, not just static idle.

https://www.techtonicstuning.com/main/index.php?ma...d57i4ennk1

What a transformation to the driving dynamics of this old Westy since she came to live with me all those years ago. Let's go camping!!

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1991 Westfalia 2WD

[dobryan]

Awesome! Thanks for reporting back.
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Dave O
'87 Westy w/ 2002 Subaru EJ25 and Peloquin TBD

"To travel hopefully is a better thing than to arrive." Robert Louis Stevenson

MD>Canada>AK>WA>OR>CA>AZ>UT>WY>SD
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=620646

Building a bus for travel in Europe (euroBus)
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=695371

The Western Syncro build
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=746794

[calsurf]

I really enjoyed reading this thread, thanks & congratulations. Hope you continue to get many miles of smiles, cheers.