Oil leak on a bus I want to buy!

[tbirddmnd]

Fantastic story and great advice. I will definitely follow it!

So basically it's OK to pull it from the front and let the rear wheels roll? I of course know to leave it in neutral, but just how tough is that on the tranny? Would it rack up miles? How fast can I go?

I'm learning more and more from all your responses and I highly appreciate it. This bus is exactly what I've been looking for, right color, right year and clean. It's a great price for me and if I can do this lifter tube replacement I'd like to tackle it. But I would need step-by-step instructions, preferably illustrated like a Chilton's or Hane's manual. Can I find that procedure on the internet? But then again, I'm getting ahead of myself, I have to buy it first.

I'll keep everyone posted.
_________________
Gonzalo Duque "Gonzo"
[email protected]
Westland, Michigan USA

[wgargan]

Not sure how hard it would be on the tranny, My gues is it would not be very hard, only because the trany is supposed to move. but dont take my word for it. i do know that it will not rack up miles, the speedo cable is attached to the front rleft wheel, at lest it was on my '71 and '73. trust me you can do the lifter tube replacement, let me tell you the general procuedure ( still buy abook) Iam not that thourough.
1.drain oil
2. pull of valve covers
3. remove the little bent wire that holds up the push rods remember how it fit in!
4. remove the bolts holding the rocker assembly on
5. take off the rocker assembly,there are some springs in here ( weak springs) be carfull as to not let the assmbly come apart and roll all over the ground, be shure to put them back on the same cylinder
6. remove the pushrods, mark what cylinder they came from.
7. remove pushrod tubes, it can be a real bitch, and might take some tugging and pulling with some pliers, but the plieres will surly junk the tubes so never use pliers on tubes you want to keep
8. clean the surface that the new tubes and seals will sit on with a rag
9. put alittl oil on the new seals, pop them on the correct end of the new tube, a pop the tubes right in
there ya go, i gues its on the web now
and if i missed something please correct it
lc
_________________
Current ride:

1983.5 Watercooled Vanagon 'L' Automatic transmission

[ratwell]

I followed the bartinik advice the first time I did it: http://type2.com/bartnik/pushrod.htm except I didn't use wheel bearing grease (see below) and I remove the rocker arm nuts differently now.

Here are some of my photos of what it looks like apart to give you an idea:

1) Push rod tube leak
2) Under the valve cover
3) All valve trains parts removed
4) Large seal at the head softened
5) Small seal at the case hardened

All VW engines leak. It's a fact of life. It you don't have a leak now you will have one eventually. It really depends on how the previous owner treated the vehicle and the techniques you'll acquire to correct it. With luck you'll be leak free as your seals will be newish.

All add to the excellent post above with a correction or two:

You don't need to drain the oil to perform this procedure. Since you're buying a new bus I'd do it anyway but before you leave for your trip home.

- remove the rockert arm nuts after you undo the valve adjustment screws and put some slack in the screws. This way it won't "pop" trying to come off.
- you want to keep from crushing the tubes when you remove and install them so wrap the tube with a rag or use a grip with a soft jaw
- clean the area where the seals will seat. There will probably be a lot of dirt up there. Feel around with your fingers and remove any sharp edges that could cut the seal on installation
- use a lot of oil on the seals to put the tubes back into place to make it go easy. Don't use a sealant on the seals: only oil.
- don't struggle with the tube: you want to seat the seal and then tap is home firmly with something long like a socket extension.
- Seating the push rod in the cup of the rocker arm can be tricky. If you don't get it right then you'll find the valve will got out of adjustment as soon as you rotate the engine to do another valve. It will make a large bang noise when it does.

Use new valve cover gaskets. I would use some OO steel wool to clean the suface of the head where the valve cover will contact.

Clean the valve cover insides well and make sure it's flat and going to seal well. My trick is to use a Permatex product (from Pepboys etc) called Hylomar to seal the gasket. I put a little between the gasket and the valve cover and apply the other side to head dry. There are other adhesives you can use but whatever advice you choose avoid anything that will cure hard because it will make the next valve cover gasket replacement difficult.

Getting the bail back on the valve cover can be tricky also. A trick I was taught was to put a little grease where the bail will ride and then lever it into position.

And if you're got valve covers that look like these you need new ones and better used ones. They are supposed to be nicely painted black to radiate heat away. Bails can rust out also.
_________________
'78 Westfalia CDN
'76 Doublecab
Read the Baywindow FAQ

[Bottomend]

Thanks luckys420. Now I feel like a SAD dork.... Whatever. I dont remember exactly what people said but they wern't particularly nice. I could forgive them though 'cause they wern't particularly creative either. I figure if you're gonna put someone down... at least be GOOD at it, right? And... I now have braggin' rights 'cause I rebuilt my own engine! I love the look on peoples faces when I tell them that!

I'll tell you the truth though... I get my fair share of solicitations from all the pretty young things when I'm riding around Hollywierd in that thing on a Friday or Saturday night. The problem is the cut off age seems to be about 15 years old. "Cool truck!" " Orange is my favorite color!" man, if they only knew what I was thinking...
Yea, the bus had been lowered useing the Busboys stuff. Looks good, rides bad. I've since taken the rear lowering plates off and I'm in the process of trying to figure out how to get the front back up to stock height. If anybody can tell me how to get a comfrotable ride while lowered, lemme know. I love the way it looks low but you'd have to keep a sharp eye on the road ahead unless you want to be catapulted into orbit at the first little bump.

My advice on the pushrod tubes is to buy the Bug Me video. Even though I've been outed by Ratsmell I'll still admit he's done a terriffic job explaining the procedure. But, there is no substitute for watching someone actually doing it.

[tbirddmnd]

Well actually I don't really have an update! The bus is still for sale, waiting for me, and when I'm ready to buy it the guy will have it taken to his VW mechanic and have the tubes repaired for the $150 and then add that to the price of the bus. I need to have these tubes repaired beacuse when I buy it I'm planning on flying one-way into his city and then driving the bus back home, a full 12 or more hours from Connecticut to Michigan.

I'll keep everyone updated on this continuing saga....... and it will be my first bus too!
_________________
Gonzalo Duque "Gonzo"
[email protected]
Westland, Michigan USA