Frustrated. aka Starts. Runs. Dies.

pgtips · Posted: Fri Mar 15, 2013 1:13 pm Post subject:

x2 AFM and Temp II

PG
_________________
1975 1.8l FI Auto Westy - Subaru converted
1971 356 kit 1600 TP - semi/stickshift
1971 1302 LS - semi/stickshift

Trim ring info here -> http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=559668
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=451210
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=479721

420GOAT · Posted: Fri Mar 15, 2013 1:49 pm Post subject:

my 87 vanagon did this too, it was timing. have you ohm'd the injectors for fun? fuel pressure and temp 2 like many state here. aux air valve was once dirty on a 80 vanagon i had and one /two bad injector.
_________________
once you realize im not impressed we will get along just fine

Joeys1969 · Posted: Fri Mar 15, 2013 2:35 pm Post subject:

peaceful warrior · Posted: Fri Mar 15, 2013 2:54 pm Post subject:

I am having the same problem with a 78 FI. I found a vacuum part, the "Y" off the plenum that feeds the brake booster and idle control (I think off the top of my head) is cracked. I just replaced it this past August and I am a bit PO'd about that.
Agree with the above comments about the AFM and ignition system, but best to trouble shoot via the Bentley instead of jumping around. One system at a time. Wink

_________________
"Two things are infinite: The universe and human stupidity; and I'm not sure about the universe." Albert Einstein
"Notchboy" says "Man up!"
"Tram" says " My bus is bigger than your bus."
66 13W Deluxe, 68 Westfalia, 87 Syncro.
TOOB Member #15
Brian

fusername · Posted: Fri Mar 15, 2013 5:55 pm Post subject:

don't hate me man, but spark plug wires? I have had this EXACT issue in the past, and found only half the injectors hooked up. it ran a b it better after that, b ut then I found I had swapped the spark pluge wires around again....
ran like a champ after that.
_________________
[email protected]
Need something custom bent up? shoot me an email, maybe we can make it work!

FORSALE: Thrust cut T4 and 1.9 main bearings

SGKent · Posted: Fri Mar 15, 2013 6:03 pm Post subject:

I had that dying thing once too but then it stopped after I put gas in the tank.
_________________
“Most people don’t know what they’re doing, and a lot of them are really good at it.” - George Carlin

fusername · Posted: Sat Mar 16, 2013 10:20 am Post subject:

oh yeah, turning your fuel shut off back on helps... ask me how i know.
_________________
[email protected]
Need something custom bent up? shoot me an email, maybe we can make it work!

FORSALE: Thrust cut T4 and 1.9 main bearings

Kirk · Posted: Wed Mar 20, 2013 9:08 pm Post subject:

Okay, worked on it tonight. Tried Dans idea, unplugging the AFM, starting it cold, with no gas. Never started. Ever. Dunno what that means, but even plugged in I have to pump the gas for it fire off.

Grounded the TTS. Not sure what should have happened. Nothing seemed to change. I did not swap it out, because I cant find my dadgum spare.

Removed the drivers side intake runners first. Not cracked anywhere visible, and I went over them thoroughly. The intake manifold gasket (pheno whatevers) had some paper top on it that peels off? Dunno how i missed peeling those off, but I did. Dunno if that even mattered. I did notice that the intake plenum had the bottom of the #4 tube was bent all up (I have a pic on my phone) not significantly, but not like I thought i would be. Bent it back and reinstalled the intake runner boots. Swear they feel tighter. I did have to replace the gasket for the EGR on the plenum (I dont have the EGR, its "bent" closed on the underside of the bus)And that didnt have a gasket, and was kinda looseish. Would that cause a leak? Fixed/tightened. Checked cleaned, tighted all starter connections, per someones suggestions.

Immediately after all that, I started it (AFM connected, but pumping fuel), fired up and ran. And actually ran for several minutes before dying. Enough to get out and go back to the engine bay and try and adjust the idle down (WAY high). When running, it was surging. Idle high, then drop down like its gonna die, then back up high again. Did finally die. Fired it back up and it ran again for little spurts. I think next I'm (Adding new, good gas. Just struck me I dont know how old that gas is, and I assume him saying it was a month old when I bought the bus 5 months ago, aint good.) going to set the valves again and replace the starter. Its dragging BAD when its trying to start.

I have not checked the fuel pressure yet. Still waiting on a helper.

Oh, and exhaust leak is the F pipe at the head on the #2 side.
_________________
MAKE FORUMS GREAT AGAIN

Bear
Coble
Super
Oppenheim

Stuartzickefoose · Posted: Thu Mar 21, 2013 12:55 am Post subject:

fuel pressure is easy with one person.

get a gauge and a couple inches of line. take out the tiny 7 mm screw on the left fuel rail. install hose and clamp on to line. turn on key, go to the back and open the flap on the afm by a gentle push with a screw driver. if the pump powers on properly, you will see fuel pressure spike and hear it running.
_________________
Stuart Zickefoose

2011 Jetta Sportwagen TDi 6 speed manual

206-841-7324
[email protected]

Westfabulous · Posted: Thu Mar 21, 2013 7:36 am Post subject:

What you are describing now, does sound somewhat like a vacuum leak. High RPM's while the mixture is rich, then putters out as it warms and leans. I would double check for a moderate sized vacuum leak; maybe a crack in the elbow to the AAR, or a cracked brake booster tee, or something like that.
_________________
*****************

"I will gladly pay you Tuesday for a hamburger today."

busdaddy · Posted: Thu Mar 21, 2013 7:46 am Post subject:

SGKent · Posted: Thu Mar 21, 2013 7:54 am Post subject:

AB westy nut · Posted: Thu Mar 21, 2013 7:55 am Post subject:

Have you checked the FI ground connections on top of the case under the left side of the plenum? There's a three pronged connector attached to a case through-bolt. If those connections aren't 100% clean and tight you'll have issues. Might not be the root cause of your troubles but worth a check anyway.
_________________
1963 Ruby Red 356 Cabriolet
1976 Sage Green Westfalia Deluxe

onion456 · Posted: Thu Mar 21, 2013 8:04 am Post subject:

^^ i was gonna say that. squish the little push-on connectors a little bit too to make sure they grab on tight.
_________________
'76 Sage Green Westy 2.0 FI
'76 Creamsicle 7-passenger 2.0 CS FI
'85 Tan Westy

75bus4/me · Posted: Thu Mar 21, 2013 8:21 am Post subject:

From the video;
Timing
Fuel mix
And exhaust leak just because.

Gerry
_________________
1975 Bay Window {Big Red}

420GOAT · Posted: Thu Mar 21, 2013 8:24 am Post subject:

did you ohm the injectors? repairing my exhaust leaks made the engine idle better. hunting is usually a vacuum issue. have you looked into afm adjust?
_________________
once you realize im not impressed we will get along just fine

Kirk · Posted: Thu Mar 21, 2013 8:27 am Post subject:

Okay, good to know about the blocks. Thank you Steve. Mark, thats what I meant, sorry. Ill do that, pull it off so it will run while I dial it in, because Im not sure the timing is right at all.

Its funny that you mention the connectors on the left side, when I had it all apart last night, I noticed those. They were greasy and lose. I did clean, tighten and reconnect them.

I will double check the AAR elbow and that brake booster T. Its fairly loose where it meets everything.

Thanks to everyone for the help/suggestions so far.
_________________
MAKE FORUMS GREAT AGAIN

Bear
Coble
Super
Oppenheim

dasdachshund · Posted: Fri Mar 29, 2013 8:27 am Post subject:

Bump.

Ever get this hunted down?

-dasdachshund

CinnabarVan · Posted: Tue Apr 23, 2013 6:02 am Post subject: Runs and Stalls out

Hey Guys,
thanks for the great advice and help. I have a 79 that I have been frustrated trying to get it running. It has been one problem after another and I have had to wait for the heads to get rebuilt in between trying to get this bus up and running.

The engine is from a 81 Vanagon with the square port heads. I put new rings on and new seals and cleanned up the gooky oil all over. I put all the required tins, shroud and alternator to make it work in a bus. I got it running and shortly after found out that the valve seat dropped. I sent the heads in to Phoenix for rebuilt. Back in the bus and now trying to tune and get it running right.

It starts but has trouble idling when cold. It idles great once warmed up. I have checked the AAR and it is open at 55 degrees. I could play with that some more and freeze it to see and heat it up to see that. But I can live with that for now.

I also had power issues that were related to the fuel pressure valve. I swapped that out and it now runs with power. I got to the top of my hill and it sucked air and died. Could not restart. Cranks fine just no spark (or no fuel?)
Luckily I coasted back down to my driveway.

I will trace the double relay wiring one more time tonight. Any other hints? YES there is gas in the tank. I also have a spare fuel pump to swap out and try.
Thanks for any advice.
Joel in Rochacha

dugfresh · Posted: Tue Apr 23, 2013 6:54 am Post subject:

So I was reading this thread the other day because my bus died while I was at Stuarts helping put his motor back together.

My bus would start two or three times but never run. After a third time of starting it would just turn over and not catch. We ran thru a lot of the above mentioned checklists but then Stuart got tricky.

He pulled his ECU out of his running bus and swapped it with mine... Started, Ran, and Ran... Swapped my ECU back in and she Started, Ran, and Ran...

Loose/dirty connection? Probably...

Learned a bit about diagnostics and very glad for threads like this one.
_________________
78 Riviera
http://flic.kr/s/aHsjDRJPa1


Hello! Log in or Register \| Help \| Donate \| Buy Shirts	See all banner ads \| Advertise on TheSamba.com

	Forum Index -> Bay Window Bus	All times are Mountain Standard Time/Pacific Daylight Savings Time Page: Previous 1, 2
Page 2 of 2