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Help...Starter Bolt Problem...
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carcrazed
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 15, 2013 3:38 am    Post subject: Help...Starter Bolt Problem... Reply with quote

Well, I was working on my 1961 Beetle with the original 1200cc last night. It hasn't been run in about 15 years and I was trying to get the starter out because I believe it is bad. I had no problem taking the nut off towards the wheel on the outside, but when I went to loosen the bolt by the transmission, it loosened very little and just spins. Of course, the one bolt on the entire car that you CAN'T see when you are working on the car just spins. What can I do without pulling the entire engine out? It has been a long time since I pulled a starter out of a bug. Is there a stud that goes in the case that might be loose or is it just a bolt?
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JimJ
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 15, 2013 4:07 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

The bottom nut is on a stud and the top one is a bolt.
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Luft kühl
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 15, 2013 4:25 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

The bolt that you are trying to remove has a "d" shaped head that sits in a notch on the starter body which prevents it from turning. The bolt must be held towards you as the nut is is being turned in order to prevent the bolt head from popping out of the notch.
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drs1023
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 15, 2013 4:42 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
The bolt that you are trying to remove has a "d" shaped head that sits in a notch.....

My '63 didn't come with the "D" head bolt. Don't think earlier cars had them.
Quote:
What can I do without pulling the entire engine out?

If that bolt is spinning, the engine is gonna be tough to remove. The bolt goes through both the transmission and engine.
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carcrazed
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 15, 2013 5:15 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for the replies. If I can get my fat head in there, I will take a better look. It has been several years since I changed one and couldn't remember if that was a bolt or nut. I will put some pressure on the bolt to hold it in place and see what happens.
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drs1023
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 15, 2013 5:27 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

At least 40 years ago, I bent a 17 mm box end wrench just for the purpose of holding the bolt without having my hands on it.
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61SNRF
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 15, 2013 6:22 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Early cars didn't have the D bolt or notches in the starter either.

At one time Hazet made a 17mm "wing" wrench with two short arms and a magnet inside the hex portion that held it on the bolt head. It was made to hold that bolt so one man could loosen or tighten the nut in front of the fan housing.

A regular box wrench is too long because the body is in the way. As a substitute, you can cut a 17mm box wrench so the handle is only 3-4" long. A Cheapo Chinese wrench from the .99 cent box would be more than sufficient.

A curved wrench may work too as suggested, depends on it's shape and how long it is.
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Cusser
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 15, 2013 8:36 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Get a helper to hold the nut steady with a 17mm box or ratchet socket around the hidden side of the fan shroud while you loosen from underneath.

Actually is easier to hold from underneath with 17 mm while person up top loosens the nut with 17mm socket or box wrench around the hidden side of the fan shroud.
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Jon Schmid
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 15, 2013 9:12 pm    Post subject: Help...Starter Bolt Problem... Reply with quote

Or you could do what a PO did to my 356 coupe: weld a hex nut onto one of the flats of the hex bolt head to keep it from turning while you remove the nut. Not original but it makes it a one man job without the special "wing spanner" tool.
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Ojai63dbl
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PostPosted: Sat Mar 16, 2013 6:02 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

just did this when I pilled engine.

If you take rear wheel off. you can put a ratchet in engine bay on the nut and hold the bolt with your hand. Usually once you break the nut torque, its easy to spin off without the pecial wrench.

Two people makes it easier. and youll want two when you tighten it back in.

If your going to 12V - get D-bolt and the problem is over. 6V starter doest use the D-bolt s noted above
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drs1023
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PostPosted: Sat Mar 16, 2013 6:12 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I welded a 1" long piece of 3/8"long round stock to ome pf the flats on mine.
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PostPosted: Sat Mar 16, 2013 6:13 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I welded a 1"long piece of 3/8"long round stock to one of the flats on mine.
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Wayne S. Johnson
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PostPosted: Sat Mar 16, 2013 9:00 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

If you pull the engine you can clean the starter and trans interface. I have seen starting problems solved after the trans and starter were wire brushed. Don’t forget this is an electrical connection for over 100 amps. The initial solenoid pull in current is 55 amps alone.
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 17, 2013 8:46 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I didn't have the "D" head bolt either so I drilled a hole across the head and drove a Spring pin in.
Marvin
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