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Removing the tricky starter bolt on my 70' single cab
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minimember
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 14, 2013 11:03 pm    Post subject: Removing the tricky starter bolt on my 70' single cab Reply with quote

I'll keep it short. I just bought a 70' single cab, and it needs a new starter. I can feel the 17mm nut that's hidden behind the fan shroud and I can get both a wrench and socket wrench on it, but am having a hard time getting enough torque to loosen it with either. Has anyone been able to change their bus starter without dropping out the engine, and if so, whats the trick???

Thanks in advance,
Craig
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Tom Powell
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 14, 2013 11:31 pm    Post subject: Re: Removing the tricky starter bolt on my 70' single cab Reply with quote

minimember wrote:
... Has anyone been able to change their bus starter without dropping out the engine, and if so, whats the trick???

Thanks in advance,
Craig


Yes
Turning it in the correct direction with a long closed end wrench or a breaker bar and socket. A ratcheting closed end wrench is useful when it's loose. When installing, a dab of butyl on the D head will hold the bolt in place.

Aloha
tp
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minimember
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 14, 2013 11:40 pm    Post subject: Re: Removing the tricky starter bolt on my 70' single cab Reply with quote

Thanks for the advice. Perhaps my closed end wrench is not beefy/long enough. Perhaps i'll try a breaker bar next, or just go out and buy the store's longest 17mm wrench. Silly question, but just to make sure: What is the correct direction to turn that nut to loosen it (assume counter-clockwise)Also, I read about people refitting longer hex bolts with washers for re-install to avoid having always go behind the shroud for future removal...your thoughts?
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minimember
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 14, 2013 11:55 pm    Post subject: Re: Removing the tricky starter bolt on my 70' single cab Reply with quote

Thanks for the advice. Perhaps my closed end wrench is not beefy/long enough. Perhaps i'll try a breaker bar next, or just go out and buy the store's longest 17mm wrench. Silly question, but just to make sure: What is the correct direction to turn that nut to loosen it (assume counter-clockwise)Also, I read about people refitting longer hex bolts with washers for re-install to avoid having always go behind the shroud for future removal...your thoughts?
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bigbore
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 15, 2013 12:54 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

God this isn't hard I have done HUNDREDS of those bolts without a problem go get yourself a gearwench you mite as well start getting some decent wenches you will have the nut off in no time and back on and as for which way for the nut to come off Iam scared to answer that to someone doesn't know and is trying to fix ---------------you know no matter how Iam going to answer this Iam going to sound like a ass well it happens some times when a stupid question gets asked------twice sorry.
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 15, 2013 2:57 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

-take the closed end of the wrench place it on the nut behind the shroud, and brace it against something so it can't spin and fall off.

-crawl under the bus, and laid right under the trans, with my head to wards the back and took my left hand and ran it up and over the trans to the other side with the starter. i then used a wrench to loosen it from that side. eventually i heard the wrench in the engine bay drop and i was able to just remove the starter and bolt
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 15, 2013 6:21 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

chrisgilmour wrote:
-take the closed end of the wrench place it on the nut behind the shroud, and brace it against something so it can't spin and fall off.

-crawl under the bus, and laid right under the trans, with my head to wards the back and took my left hand and ran it up and over the trans to the other side with the starter. i then used a wrench to loosen it from that side. eventually i heard the wrench in the engine bay drop and i was able to just remove the starter and bolt


But, one of the starter bolts has a D-hed and will not turn from the starter side. The nut is behind the fan and you have to loosen it from the engine bay. It loosens counterclockwise. Be sure and disconnect the battery ground strap when working o the starter. When installing start with the regular bolt and nut and make them finger tight then use a bit of butyl to hold the D-head bolt in place and tighten clockwise for both.

Aloha
tp
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 15, 2013 6:41 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Tom Powell wrote:
chrisgilmour wrote:
-take the closed end of the wrench place it on the nut behind the shroud, and brace it against something so it can't spin and fall off.

-crawl under the bus, and laid right under the trans, with my head to wards the back and took my left hand and ran it up and over the trans to the other side with the starter. i then used a wrench to loosen it from that side. eventually i heard the wrench in the engine bay drop and i was able to just remove the starter and bolt


But, one of the starter bolts has a D-hed and will not turn from the starter side. The nut is behind the fan and you have to loosen it from the engine bay. It loosens counterclockwise. Be sure and disconnect the battery ground strap when working o the starter. When installing start with the regular bolt and nut and make them finger tight then use a bit of butyl to hold the D-head bolt in place and tighten clockwise for both.

Aloha
tp


X2 no reason to go behind the starter with a wrench unless the wrong bolt is there...
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 15, 2013 6:42 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

anyone been able to change their bus starter without dropping out the engine

The top D headed bolt holding the starter in place must come out to drop the engine so your thinking is off.

I read about people refitting longer hex bolts with washers for re-install to avoid having always go behind the shroud for future removal...your thoughts?

Later cases used a captured nut that the drivers side upper bolt attaches to. The upper starter bolt always uses a nut from behind the fan shroud. I've seen early cases moded for the drivers side but never on the passenger side
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 15, 2013 7:11 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Agreed, so unless someone has put a reeeaallly long bolt with a bunch of carefully cut down washers under the head to defeat the bump for the D head it's futile attacking from the starter side.
If that nut is putting up a fight put the box end of your 17mm combination wrench on it at around the 10:00 position, then hook the box end of another largish wrench into the open end (turn bonus wrench sideways with the box end angled up), the added length gives you enough leverage. Lift up on the end of the second wrench to loosen.
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 15, 2013 7:17 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just r&r'd mine, but on a T4. Sounds exactly the same just my S boot was in the way. Could have worked around it but why bother. Just remove the items that are in the way and get it done. Reinstallation will be much easier if you can actually See your work. And don't overthink how bolts turn, you'll make yourself dizzy.
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 15, 2013 7:30 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

You've gotta get animal on it sometimes. Busdaddy's idea with the wrenches is a good one and Tom Powell suggested using something under the D head to keep that bolt in place. I have a hunk of some stuff we used to call Gorilla Snot. I place a bead of that under the D and slide the bolt into the hole. It keeps the bolt from pushing forward when you're stuggling to get the nut started. I usually clean up the bolt theads real nice too so the nut threads on easily by hand.
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 15, 2013 9:38 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just remembered that in a 73 and newer bus, you get to access that nut from the top engine access hole, really easy in those years to grab that nut.
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 15, 2013 10:09 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Put a long 17mm or 11/16 box end on it, reaching around the engine shroud. It is easier if the apron is already off. Use a mechanics rag wrapped around the handle or gloves if it is too hard on the hands to turn it. As you unscrew it keep the wrench a little cocked with the top out so it grabs the nut. Keep a little pressure pulling towards you as you turn it and that will keep the D Head from sliding out on the other side and spinning. Do the same when you put it back. Once you have done it a couple times you will get the hang of it. Also, on some engines as mentioned the driver's side is a pressed in nut that is part of the case so you remove the top bolt on the driver's side from under the car. Pull the motor mounts last and MAKE SURE you have something like a heavy rope or chain supporting the trans. Do not let it dangle on the front mount when you remove the engine or you will bend the shift rod.
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 15, 2013 3:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I took a chunk of 1/2 inch EMT i had laying around, I'm an electrician. Put a little dent in it so it made a press on fit on my ratchet handle. Leverage is a wonderful thing.
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 15, 2013 4:47 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

bigbore wrote:
---you know no matter how Iam going to answer this Iam going to sound like a ass well it happens some times when a stupid question gets asked------twice
Hey Bigbore, if the wrench is too short to get leverage do you thing a longer wrench would be better? And if the wrench was standing straight up a bit above the fan shroud do you think I could give it a sharp whack with a little sledge? But to whack it to break the nut free which side should I whack it from? Embarassed Laughing
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 15, 2013 4:58 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Desertbusman wrote:
bigbore wrote:
---you know no matter how Iam going to answer this Iam going to sound like a ass well it happens some times when a stupid question gets asked------twice
Hey Bigbore, if the wrench is too short to get leverage do you thing a longer wrench would be better? And if the wrench was standing straight up a bit above the fan shroud do you think I could give it a sharp whack with a little sledge? But to whack it to break the nut free which side should I whack it from? Embarassed Laughing

Just keep them knuckles out of the way..... On my '71, the PO put a piece of all thread in place of the d bolt and used 9/16" nuts. I went nuts trying to find a metric wrench to fit it. Needless to say, that has been remedied. I couldn't find a d bolt but the proper length metric bolt and a bench grinder did wonders.
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 15, 2013 5:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Desertbusman wrote:
bigbore wrote:
---you know no matter how Iam going to answer this Iam going to sound like a ass well it happens some times when a stupid question gets asked------twice
Hey Bigbore, if the wrench is too short to get leverage do you thing a longer wrench would be better? And if the wrench was standing straight up a bit above the fan shroud do you think I could give it a sharp whack with a little sledge? But to whack it to break the nut free which side should I whack it from? Embarassed Laughing

is that standing from in front of the bus or from the rear? Laughing Laughing Laughing the wind has been howling at 65 to 80 mph for 3 days straight it is 10 F outside clear and sunny of course I get a case of the red ass so when something like this gets asked I turn into vwdubtech Wink
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 15, 2013 5:03 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I turn into vwdubtech

Not possible bro
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 15, 2013 5:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

aeromech wrote:
I turn into vwdubtech

Not possible bro

You maybe right I could never be a new yorker. Laughing
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