This isn't original, is it? Also, While the engine is out...

Atx67beetle

I'm working on my first bug (67) and first resto project. I'm planning to start a thread on my build, but haven't made time for that yet.

A couple of engine questions

1) My engine appears to be a 1600 with an engine code beginning with AE.
Am I correct in thinking that this is from a 1972? Beetle?

2) I drove the car home (almost 100 miles) when I purchased it. The engine seemed to run fine. I noticed some oil spots on the driveway after parking it over night, but I think that it might have been gear oil, as both rear axle boots were ripped. I plan to change the oil, valve job, and remove the engine tins for cleaning and paint. With that having been said, what else should I do with the engine while I have it out? Is there an easy way to see if the rear seal is leaking? Should I take it to my local VW shop for a once over, compression test, any thing else? Any suggestions would be much appreciated!

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

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andk5591 · Posted: Mon Mar 18, 2013 3:54 am Post subject:

One piece of advice - make note of places that have crud before you clean the engine. Helps identify leaking areas. And before you even pull it, I would have a leakdown test done and a general "health assessment."

Theres threads that have a laundry list of what to do when you have it

Here's one:

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=539221&highlight=pulling
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Atx67beetle · Posted: Mon Mar 18, 2013 1:55 pm Post subject:

I saw that thread, but I'm not looking to do a minor engine overhaul unless it needs it. With most vehicles I can understand the, "while you have the engine out" idea, but the vw engine is so easy to remove, I don't see the logic in doing a minor overhaul, just because the engine is out of the car. But, if there are internal engine repairs needed, I would prefer to do them now if it will save me $ in the long run. Is this more of a stitch in time saves 9 sort of thing?
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Heinrich Nordhoff

vw_partsguy · Posted: Mon Mar 18, 2013 3:21 pm Post subject:

The engine is a 1600 Dual port which makes it a 72 and later type. If it runs well and don't knock or smoke. I would just clean it up, paint a few pieces of tin and pulleys, oil cooler seals, seal up the engine compartment and roll it. -Louie
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Michael Fischer · Posted: Mon Mar 18, 2013 3:32 pm Post subject:

I would change out the intake boots. They look like they are toast. And I would invest in some real plugs for the vacuum ports. And get the correct breastplate for the motor so you can hook up the preheat. Do you have the 2 small deflector tins that go under the breastplate? Should probably put better quality fuel line on it too.

andk5591 · Posted: Mon Mar 18, 2013 4:17 pm Post subject:

Eric&Barb · Posted: Mon Mar 18, 2013 8:33 pm Post subject:

You need the rear lower cylinder tins and the tin pieces that seal the rear tin to the intake manifold heat riser tubes. Parts # 8 & 32.

Post images of the front side of the engine!
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bugheadred · Samba Member Joined: January 23, 2003 Posts: 666

i would change the tranny output shaft seal

Atx67beetle · Posted: Mon Mar 18, 2013 10:08 pm Post subject:

Thanks for all the feed back! I would making far more mistakes if it weren't for all of the help of all you kind samba folks!!!

Here are a few more engine pics as well as a shot of my pan in its current state.

Here's a close up of the oil splatter.

_________________
"It should not be the the aim of the motor industry simply to bring out new models, but rather to produce and sell."
Heinrich Nordhoff

dschup · Posted: Tue Mar 19, 2013 5:21 am Post subject:

Do you have the list that goes along with this?

Thanks in advance.

Eric&Barb · Posted: Tue Mar 19, 2013 6:44 am Post subject:

Yes, the parts manual.

Looks like you are missing all the tin and seals in the top part of the diagram.

8a and 8b tin pieces are for the Thing which does not use the heat exchangers.

Also missing thermostatic flaps and thermostat.
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Eric&Barb · Posted: Tue Mar 19, 2013 6:52 am Post subject:

Would be good to get the 1967 only air cleaner and rear tin. Then get the preheat tubes for the carb to help keep icing away.

The rear tin you have now is for an early 1500 bus and hard to find. So a good item to sell or trade.

Need to get the rubber seals in the rear apron.

If you open the engine lid and can see right down to the pavement, you have an air leak that will cause a hotter engine.
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Joel · Posted: Wed Mar 20, 2013 2:17 am Post subject:

Dump that 009 dist for the correct SVDA 034 one, the engine will perform 100x better

Eric&Barb · Posted: Wed Mar 20, 2013 3:04 am Post subject:

dschup · Posted: Wed Mar 20, 2013 5:15 am Post subject:

Thank you, I've got a 1600cc engine that was in a buggy and I'm missing more tin than I thought.

Eric&Barb · Posted: Wed Mar 20, 2013 6:49 am Post subject:

No problem.

#29 is the only stock piece that you could run without, all the rest you need. Sorting out between what you have now and need is the trick. For instance the pre-1968 rear and pulley tins can not be mixed up with post-1967 of those tins or gaps will occur.

Post some images of the engine or the tins you do have, and what VW are you installing it in.
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Atx67beetle · Posted: Fri Mar 22, 2013 12:12 pm Post subject:

Thanks for the replies.

Eric and Barb,
Should the engine tins be specific to they year of the car of the engine. From what I can tell, this engine is from 1972 or so. Shouldn't I use engine tins from that year? Or are the tins more specific to the body of the vehicle?

Joel,
I'm thinking of going to al electronic ignition system. Is that advisable? Is there one that you would recommend?
_________________
"It should not be the the aim of the motor industry simply to bring out new models, but rather to produce and sell."
Heinrich Nordhoff

Eric&Barb · Posted: Sat Mar 23, 2013 8:21 am Post subject:

You can use any of rear engine tins used for 1500/1600 engines, but you have such a mix of tins right now. Figure you might as well get the correct rear tin and air cleaner for 1967. That would give the engine a more correct look for the year of your VW.

Then later if you or the next owner decides to restore the engine those parts are already at hand.

As is you could run what you have now, but need to block off the hole in the rear tin (tin can lids and screw/bolt and nut will work), but then you would not have preheat for the carb. That will cause icing problems in certain weather conditions.
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