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BusBerd
Samba Member
Joined: November 19, 2005
Posts: 834
Location: Minneapolis, MN
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 Posted: Wed Apr 03, 2013 11:39 pm Post subject: Ground Strap on the transmission |
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I took off the ground strap on the tranny to clean it, but I sheered off the bolt where it mounts to the frame (it is a 1977 Bus). So now all that is left is just a few threads of the bolt. Not enough to reinstall the shiny, cleaned, ground strap.
Is that frame bolt for the ground strap welded on?? How is it attached?? I did not see a head on the other side of the frame piece. What are my options here? I can get a pic of it in the morning if that will help.
Thanks!
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"The large print giveth and the small print taketh away."
1977 Westfalia Camper Bus 2.0L Fuel Injected Engine, Manual Transmission |
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Brionp
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Joined: March 18, 2009
Posts: 457
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| Posted: Thu Apr 04, 2013 12:21 am Post subject: |
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Grind the nub flat. Put a nice dimple in the center of it with a punch. Drill it out. Not all at once. Start with a small drill and work your way up. Don"t take it all out. Then bust the little bit you have left out with a chisel and then tap the threads to clean them out. Lubricate your drill bit and tap. The challenge is that you will be doing this upside down with more than likely little chance of getting any of those tools even close to the broken bolt. But, you might get lucky.
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1971 7 seat Deluxe Station Wagon |
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aeromech
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Joined: January 24, 2006
Posts: 16961
Location: San Diego, California
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| Posted: Thu Apr 04, 2013 8:36 am Post subject: |
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Hey Brion,
If it was me I'd just find a suitable location and drill a new hole. Wire brush around the hole and attach your clean ground strap there with a 8mm bolt. You're just bonding the engine to the frame. It doesn't have to be the original location.
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Randy in Maine
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Joined: August 03, 2003
Posts: 34890
Location: The Beach
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| Posted: Thu Apr 04, 2013 10:21 am Post subject: |
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Always a good idea to put some "De-Ox" on the whole strap and the bolts in my book (since it all looks nice and pretty now).
I trust things are good up there in the Twin Cities!! |
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Brionp
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Joined: March 18, 2009
Posts: 457
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| Posted: Thu Apr 04, 2013 11:06 am Post subject: |
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You know Gary, maybe this is why its taking me so long to get my bus rolling. Self Flagellation.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Flagellation
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1971 7 seat Deluxe Station Wagon |
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aeromech
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Joined: January 24, 2006
Posts: 16961
Location: San Diego, California
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| Posted: Thu Apr 04, 2013 11:23 am Post subject: |
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Is that sort of like self abuse? Something I know a bit about 
_________________
Lead Mechanic: San Diego Air and Space Museum
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Licensed Pilot (Single engine Land)
Boeing 727,737-200-300-400,757,767
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DC9/MD80
BAe146
Fokker F28/F100
VW type 1 1962,63,65,69,72
VW Type 2 1971 (3 ea.) 1978, 1969
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BusBerd
Samba Member
Joined: November 19, 2005
Posts: 834
Location: Minneapolis, MN
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| Posted: Thu Apr 04, 2013 12:22 pm Post subject: |
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I think access is going to be an issue down there. The engine is out right now, but it looks like there is not much clearance to get a drill in there. Going to go check it out now.
But on the plus side, the ground strap cleaned up real nice. So I got that goin for me.
| Randy in Maine wrote: |
Always a good idea to put some "De-Ox" on the whole strap and the bolts in my book (since it all looks nice and pretty now).
I trust things are good up there in the Twin Cities!! |
What is "De-Ox"? Is that a brand name? the strap was pretty green and dirty when I took it off so I would like to treat it somehow before i put it back on to make it last longer.
Things are good in the Cities. Winter is hanging on by its fingernails, but we are in the 40s today. Theoretically, it should be getting warmer and warmer each day, but I'll believe it when I feel the sun on my skin.
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"The large print giveth and the small print taketh away."
1977 Westfalia Camper Bus 2.0L Fuel Injected Engine, Manual Transmission |
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aeromech
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Joined: January 24, 2006
Posts: 16961
Location: San Diego, California
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| Posted: Thu Apr 04, 2013 12:55 pm Post subject: |
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deox oxide inhibitor - Ilsco
www.ilsco.com/ProductsDetail.aspx?kfjkff...fjjfhjhj...
Provides air-tight seal around conductor. Available in a variety of packages. Broad working temperature range. Conductor versatile. Prevents oxides from ...
I'm talking about the area near the front transmission mount. Engine in or engine out it wouldn't matter. Just find somewhere to connect that ground strap to the frame.
_________________
Lead Mechanic: San Diego Air and Space Museum
Licensed Airframe and Powerplant Mechanic
Licensed Pilot (Single engine Land)
Boeing 727,737-200-300-400,757,767
Airbus A319,320,321
DC9/MD80
BAe146
Fokker F28/F100
VW type 1 1962,63,65,69,72
VW Type 2 1971 (3 ea.) 1978, 1969
VW Jetta
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VDubTech
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Joined: December 29, 2002
Posts: 9142
Location: Syracuse, NY
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| Posted: Thu Apr 04, 2013 5:24 pm Post subject: |
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That happened on the RustyBus. I just welded a bolt right next to where the old stud was.
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First Trip in the RustyBus:
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=279077&highlight=
| borninabus wrote: |
| a measurement of your rod would be extremely useful. |
| notchboy wrote: |
| my dad wasnt a belittling cock when he tought me how to wrench on cars. |
| EverettB wrote: |
One photo = good for reference.
10 photos = douchebaggery |
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BusBerd
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Joined: November 19, 2005
Posts: 834
Location: Minneapolis, MN
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| Posted: Fri Apr 05, 2013 2:17 pm Post subject: |
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| VDubTech wrote: |
| That happened on the RustyBus. I just welded a bolt right next to where the old stud was. |
I wish I could do that. But, I don't know how to weld and I don't have the tools to weld. However I was wondering of I could just use JB Weld to weld the bolt on there?? I actually sawed off the old bolt down to the frame piece nice and smooth. So, instead of drilling thru, I want to just JB Weld the head of a bolt in the same spot that the ground strap can connect to.
I have 2 questions:
Is JB Weld conductive enough to supply the ground to the frame?
Is JB Weld strong enough to hold the ground strap there (tightly)? Its not a moving connection or any thing, and I could put some sort of a boot around it to help with corrosion.
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"The large print giveth and the small print taketh away."
1977 Westfalia Camper Bus 2.0L Fuel Injected Engine, Manual Transmission |
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VDubTech
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Joined: December 29, 2002
Posts: 9142
Location: Syracuse, NY
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| Posted: Fri Apr 05, 2013 2:19 pm Post subject: |
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JB Weld? Doubt it. Take it to a muffler shop or find someone with a welder, it should take 2 minutes to put a new bolt there.
_________________
First Trip in the RustyBus:
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=279077&highlight=
| borninabus wrote: |
| a measurement of your rod would be extremely useful. |
| notchboy wrote: |
| my dad wasnt a belittling cock when he tought me how to wrench on cars. |
| EverettB wrote: |
One photo = good for reference.
10 photos = douchebaggery |
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aeromech
Samba Member
Joined: January 24, 2006
Posts: 16961
Location: San Diego, California
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| Posted: Fri Apr 05, 2013 2:20 pm Post subject: |
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That's an extermely bad idea and something we would consider poor engineering. I doubt JB weld is conductive. Can you shoot a picture of the broken off bolt? I just can't understand why you can't find a place to drill and bolt the cable to.
_________________
Lead Mechanic: San Diego Air and Space Museum
Licensed Airframe and Powerplant Mechanic
Licensed Pilot (Single engine Land)
Boeing 727,737-200-300-400,757,767
Airbus A319,320,321
DC9/MD80
BAe146
Fokker F28/F100
VW type 1 1962,63,65,69,72
VW Type 2 1971 (3 ea.) 1978, 1969
VW Jetta
VW Passat
Capable of leaping tall buildings in a single bound |
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VDubTech
Samba Member
Joined: December 29, 2002
Posts: 9142
Location: Syracuse, NY
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| Posted: Fri Apr 05, 2013 2:37 pm Post subject: |
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I wouldn't go drilling holes either I don't blame him there. Anywhere you drill a hole you are inviting rust, and the torsion tube in the rear is one of the last places you want rust forming.
_________________
First Trip in the RustyBus:
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=279077&highlight=
| borninabus wrote: |
| a measurement of your rod would be extremely useful. |
| notchboy wrote: |
| my dad wasnt a belittling cock when he tought me how to wrench on cars. |
| EverettB wrote: |
One photo = good for reference.
10 photos = douchebaggery |
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BusBerd
Samba Member
Joined: November 19, 2005
Posts: 834
Location: Minneapolis, MN
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| Posted: Fri Apr 05, 2013 2:41 pm Post subject: |
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| aeromech wrote: |
| That's an extermely bad idea and something we would consider poor engineering. I doubt JB weld is conductive. Can you shoot a picture of the broken off bolt? I just can't understand why you can't find a place to drill and bolt the cable to. |
There is a place to drill. I just don't want to unless I have to.
Sounds like JB Weld is a bad idea.
The engine (and Transmission) are out right now, so its not so easy to just bring it to a muffler shop for them to weld. I might see if I can befriend a welder somewhere.
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"The large print giveth and the small print taketh away."
1977 Westfalia Camper Bus 2.0L Fuel Injected Engine, Manual Transmission |
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busdaddy
Samba Member
Joined: February 12, 2004
Posts: 51130
Location: Surrey B.C. Canada, but thinking of Ukraine
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| Posted: Fri Apr 05, 2013 3:07 pm Post subject: |
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That brake line scares the crap outta me 
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BusBerd
Samba Member
Joined: November 19, 2005
Posts: 834
Location: Minneapolis, MN
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| Posted: Fri Apr 05, 2013 3:35 pm Post subject: |
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| busdaddy wrote: |
| That brake line scares the crap outta me |
Its on the list.
_________________
"The large print giveth and the small print taketh away."
1977 Westfalia Camper Bus 2.0L Fuel Injected Engine, Manual Transmission |
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aeromech
Samba Member
Joined: January 24, 2006
Posts: 16961
Location: San Diego, California
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| Posted: Fri Apr 05, 2013 4:00 pm Post subject: |
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All you need is a battery cable long enough to go from the tranny nose to anywhere on the frame. In your picture you show that suspension brace or whatever they call it. You could just pull out that bolt and put one end of the cable under that. There are probably tons of places available. Afraid to drill because you'll create rust! Hahaha. Drill and then treat it against rust. No big deal.
_________________
Lead Mechanic: San Diego Air and Space Museum
Licensed Airframe and Powerplant Mechanic
Licensed Pilot (Single engine Land)
Boeing 727,737-200-300-400,757,767
Airbus A319,320,321
DC9/MD80
BAe146
Fokker F28/F100
VW type 1 1962,63,65,69,72
VW Type 2 1971 (3 ea.) 1978, 1969
VW Jetta
VW Passat
Capable of leaping tall buildings in a single bound |
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Wildthings
Samba Member
Joined: March 13, 2005
Posts: 50338
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| Posted: Fri Apr 05, 2013 5:43 pm Post subject: |
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Buy a longer #1 awg ground cable for your battery and hook the lug on the cable up to one of the bolts on your fan shroud. Then get or make a #6 or #8 copper strap and ground the fan shroud back to the body where the original battery cable used to go.
This will eliminate the starter current running through the tranny ground strap which is so exposed to the elements and thus corrodes readily, and will keep the starter current from running through the clutch cable under most any condition. |
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BusBerd
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Joined: November 19, 2005
Posts: 834
Location: Minneapolis, MN
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| Posted: Fri Apr 05, 2013 6:13 pm Post subject: |
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| Wildthings wrote: |
Buy a longer #1 awg ground cable for your battery and hook the lug on the cable up to one of the bolts on your fan shroud. Then get or make a #6 or #8 copper strap and ground the fan shroud back to the body where the original battery cable used to go.
This will eliminate the starter current running through the tranny ground strap which is so exposed to the elements and thus corrodes readily, and will keep the starter current from running through the clutch cable under most any condition. |
Interesting idea.
starter current runs thru the clutch cable?? I wonder if you could get zapped by that with a bare foot on the clutch pedal when you turn the key.
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"The large print giveth and the small print taketh away."
1977 Westfalia Camper Bus 2.0L Fuel Injected Engine, Manual Transmission |
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Wildthings
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Joined: March 13, 2005
Posts: 50338
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| Posted: Fri Apr 05, 2013 6:21 pm Post subject: |
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| BusBerd wrote: |
| Wildthings wrote: |
Buy a longer #1 awg ground cable for your battery and hook the lug on the cable up to one of the bolts on your fan shroud. Then get or make a #6 or #8 copper strap and ground the fan shroud back to the body where the original battery cable used to go.
This will eliminate the starter current running through the tranny ground strap which is so exposed to the elements and thus corrodes readily, and will keep the starter current from running through the clutch cable under most any condition. |
Interesting idea.
starter current runs thru the clutch cable?? I wonder if you could get zapped by that with a bare foot on the clutch pedal when you turn the key. |
You won't get zapped, but the cable will get too hot and stretch. This happens when the original tranny ground strap goes bad and the current looks for the next best path which is the clutch cable. |
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