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Beetle hauler plans? Specifically axle placement and balance
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PostPosted: Sat Apr 06, 2013 4:31 pm    Post subject: Beetle hauler plans? Specifically axle placement and balance Reply with quote

So I'm in the process of finding a trailer to haul my beetle with. I've got a few prospects but I'm wondering if anyone happens to know where the balance point is on these cars? Obviously it's on the back half of the car but anyone have a somewhat accurate measurment to go off of.

I'm also looking at having one built. I need it as small as possible. 5.5'x12' california style hauler with a single drop axle and brakes.


Does anyone know of plans for VW specific trailers?


Thanks
Paul
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PostPosted: Sat Apr 06, 2013 5:28 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Easy way to find out is to take apiece of 2x4 and a floor jack and start jacking the car up on center tube. I'm also looking at building one with a drop axle of torsion bars to get the deck down as low as possible.

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PostPosted: Sat Apr 06, 2013 5:44 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Cool ill try that. Yeah me too! I'm surpised no one makes beetle specific trailers. I've seen tons of custom made ones (seems like they are always for sale in Canada). I can never find them in the Midwest when I've got the money for one.
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PostPosted: Sat Apr 06, 2013 7:53 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Balance point is near the jack point behind doors.
Also know proper weight distribution for a trailer you want
some load on the ball. So really not an issue of balancing.
Just so its not trying to pull up off the ball. Rear end heavy.
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PostPosted: Sat Apr 06, 2013 9:17 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I use the door jam on my '67 as a reference point. I line it up with the tandem axles on my trailer, right between the tires. I am saying this, because it seems to be a good weight forward of the axle refence, but still fairly balanced. I suggest a tandem if you can. They tow really nice.
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 07, 2013 5:51 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just curious about your reasons for keeping it as small as possible?
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 08, 2013 6:18 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm going to pull it behind my TDI Sportwagen, I'd also like to be able to store it on the trailer in my garage.
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 08, 2013 6:28 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

What kind of towing weight is it rated for? Trailer brakes? Why not flat tow it?
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 08, 2013 6:40 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Lets keep this on the topic at hand but since you asked... I just installed a westfalia hitch, which is a class 2 hitch. I definitely will be running trailer brakes. I don't want to flat tow it because the car is extremely low and I have a show 8 hours away.
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 08, 2013 6:50 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've trailered many cars on many different trailers. My favorite trailers are tilt deck for several reasons. No need to align the car perfectly with the ramps, for when you're working with someone not as experienced as yourself. They're also easier with a low car, as the deck is flat and eliminates the hump at the top of the ramps. Because the whole deck is the "ramp", the approach angle is less severe than the ramps of many regular trailers. As they are favored by landscaping companies for the speedy loading and unloading, and the bug is so small and light, I bet you could find something that just fits the car.
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 08, 2013 9:20 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Have you considered a TrailX aluminum trailer? They are very nice and very ightweight.

http://www.trailex.com/

Just a suggestion before you actually start building, price EVERYTHING! With a lot of smaller trailers you can purchase something already built, or in kit form a lot cheaper then you can purchase all the parts seperately. The parts start to add up quickly.

Also check with your state about registration before you start your build.

Here in the great state of Maryland where they want everything you have in your pockets, its not such a good deal to try to register a kit or home built.

One of my gravity racing buddies recently purchased a Harbor Freight trailer (a build it yourself kit) to pull his race car.

When buying the kit, he paid sales tax. Then when trying to get it tagged and registered, Maryland hit him for sales tax AGAIN on the finished trailer.

The cost of the tax, tags and registration fee, was more then the cost of the trailer!

So do your homework in your state. You may find its cheaper to purchase something already built.
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 08, 2013 10:21 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

TrailerX are nice but a bit big for what I need, and really really expensive. I'd be cheaper and lighter to get a aluminum utility trailer.

I don't plan on building it, although I really want to but I lack the equipment right now. I am going to either buy one that is already made or have someone who makes trailers, make it.


I wish there was someone in this community that made beetle trailers, probably be a pretty good side gig.
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 08, 2013 1:14 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I guess HotVW had info on building a beetle hauler in their December 2003 issue. Does anyone have this issue???
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 11, 2013 6:47 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I wish hotvws sold digital backissues.
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 11, 2013 8:23 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

OK. I'll bite.

Q: Why hasn't anyone brought up wind resistance yet? It's a piece of cake to determine the weight center of a bug on a flat bed trailer while it's sitting still.

The first thing I'd do is rent or borrow a flat bed trailer with plenty of deck- so you can find the right weight center when pulling. Tongue length/weight is essential, as a bug that sits weight centered over a single axle trailer in the driveway will become featherlight in the tongue at freeway speed! Consider this before comitting to a trailer that has no for or aft axle adjustment.

If you don't follow this advice- then at least provide me your travel plans so I can decide whether or not I want to witness your carnage.
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 11, 2013 10:12 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Tons of trailer pics and ideas here....
http://s23.photobucket.com/user/MURZI/library/misc%20stuff/trailers?sort=3&start=all&page=1
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PostPosted: Fri Apr 12, 2013 6:51 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

hittest: you bring up a good point



MURZI: Pray You are awesome! This is good stuff, thanks!!
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PostPosted: Fri Apr 12, 2013 10:12 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

The lighter your tow vehicle, the more important correct tongue weight is. Even with an 8500 lb truck, sometimes moving my skid steer a bit forward or backwards has a drastic effect on handling/ braking, etc. While the idea of having a trailer that's "just" as long as your bug needs to be, I would advise you to build it maybe 3 feet longer. You'll be able to fine tune your loaded weight, or in a pinch, pick up the extra motor form the swap meet, extra set of wheels, you get the idea.
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PostPosted: Fri Apr 12, 2013 12:31 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

This may not be exactly on topic, but needs to be mentioned....

Rule of thumb is to have 10 to 15 percent of the total towed weight on the hitch ball for a trailer to tow nicely.

So, trailer @1000# + Beetle @2000# = 3000# total towed weight would want 300 to 450 pounds on the ball.

I tow a Miata on an aluminum trailer with two extra sets of mounted tires. All up it's about 4000#. I tow with about 430-450 pounds on the ball, which is just about perfect with my Jeep Liberty (rated for 5000# total and 500# on the hitch).

Having said that, I wouldn't feel comfortable towing ANY more with the Jeep. 4000# (I feel through 20,000 miles of towing it) is its max limit.

The LAST thing you want when towing is too LITTLE weight on the tongue.

You need to be sure your hitch, rear axle and vehicle are rated for what you will be towing. I checked the specs for your TDI Sportwagon. Under the heading of "Towing and Hauling" it listed only "Tie Down Straps".

The Miata I'm referring to is a Spec Miata race car. Without a doubt, the most dangerous part of the entire race weekend is towing the car back and forth.

In most states that I'm aware of, towing anything more than 2500# REQUIRES trailer brakes.

DON'T CUT CORNERS ON YOUR TRAILER OR YOUR TOW VEHICLE. PERIOD.

Good luck. Be careful.

Just my .02
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 15, 2013 7:30 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Let's keep this thread vehicle unspecific. After it's all said and done, the trailer should be #600-700, my beetle weighs #1800. The US spec towing is 2000#. The Euro spec on this car is 3300#. I installed a european class 2 hitch has a tongue of 200lbs and a pull weight of #3500. As I mentioned earlier, it WILL have brakes.


http://www.volkswagen.co.uk/new/golf-estate-a6/which-model/engines/towing



I'm planning on buying a 6x12 utility trailer and customizing it.
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