Rear main seal leaking

[Skoolieman]

Hi guys, I need some assistance with my bus. It is a 69 westy with a 1600dp doghouse in it. I started driving it about two weeks ago but noticed it leaking oil out of the bellhousing. I dropped the motor this week and took the flywheel off and I saw the new rear main seal I put in was somewhat chewed up and leaking. When I installed it I used the old seal to seat it so that it was recessed into the block a little bit. I put a new seal in it tuesday hoping that it was just a bad part but I just looked in the parking lot and I see a few drops of oil from the drive in this morning.

can anyone offer some insight in to this? I want to take her to Florida next week but its starting to look like it might not happen now...

This is the pic of when I installed the first seal..

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'69 Westfalia Camper~Cassidy
1600dp with H30/31 carb 009 distributor and alternator conversion

[SGKent]

seals leak, cases crack, gallery plugs leak, shims cut through cranks to the dowels then oil comes out the dowel holes. Check all.
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“Most people don’t know what they’re doing, and a lot of them are really good at it.” - George Carlin

[Skoolieman]

Before I replaced the seal the second time I searched this forum to death. I checked the case where it usually cracks by #3, checked all the oil plugs and everything was good. the dowels were in good shape and no wallowing on the flywheel. Shims were in great shape too!

This motor is out of a thing and it does not have a case breather coming out of the bottom up to the oil filler. it only has a port next to the fill cap that goes to the air filter. Is there a possibility I a have too much crank case pressure right now and that is what is causing it to blow out. i am running 20w 50 right now with it and I notice oil spits out of the hole on the filler when I am driving.

In this picture the circle is where there never was a tube to vent the case and the arrow is where oil comes out of. I still need to get the tube to connect it to the air cleaner.

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'69 Westfalia Camper~Cassidy
1600dp with H30/31 carb 009 distributor and alternator conversion

[SGKent]

if the breather is open and the hose not kinked then pressure should escape into the air cleaner. Some oil vapor and steam will always escape - that is hwy there is a breather. If the flow is excessive then the rings or guides are worn out.

VW buses seem notorious for oil leaks. I have never owned one that didn't leak a little after 3000 - 5000 miles after a rebuild. In fact my new T4 engine has an occasional drop and I am sure it is from the flywheel seal area. Considering that the case was well glued when put together and all the plugs have screw in plugs it is likely the flywheel seal dripping.

I guess what is being said is that I've learned to live with the occasional drip the size of a dime three or four days after running it. My 1971 bus had one engine that the shims cut thru the crank to the dowels. The groove was very hard to see unless one was looking for it. One way to find it is pull the dowels and blow compressed air into the dowel holes. To temporarily solve it I stuffed RTV into the dowel holes and pressed the dowels in until I could find a new crank. Another time a case cracked behind #3. Very hard to find the crack. Took me about 4 engine pulls until I found it. Clean the area behind #3 with carb cleaner until it is spotless. Let it dry then flex the case with your hands and see if a thin oil line shows up. I have also seen cam plugs rust thru.

You said that the seal was chewed up. Seals should not do that. It can mean that the surface of the flywheel area is too rough. Use a little 2000 or 3000 grit sand paper on it to polish it a little.
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“Most people don’t know what they’re doing, and a lot of them are really good at it.” - George Carlin

[Skoolieman]

Cool thanks for the reply. I was under the impression that this was the case and I will keep an eye on it.

For now I am going to keep putting miles on it and see what happens. I guess she likes to mark her spot.
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'69 Westfalia Camper~Cassidy
1600dp with H30/31 carb 009 distributor and alternator conversion

[Wildthings]

Are you putting a bit of grease on the seal before installing the flywheel? If the seal is dry the rubber can seize to the metal of the flywheel and the seal will rip apart.

[mranker]

I would also recommend installing the seal with the proper tool. The seal needs to be uniformly flush and the only way to be sure is to use the seal installation tool.

http://www.jbugs.com/product/7036.html
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'70 Bus
'02 Eurovan MV Weekender

[Skoolieman]

[SGKent]

[Skoolieman]

[Wildthings]

This applies to pretty much all lip style shaft seals. A dab of grease or a bit of heavy oil.

I too have wondered why this info isn't given in many manuals. Guess I should open up the "Idiot Book" and see what Muir has to say, as he is often better with base level how-to's than others.

[Skoolieman]

At least I don't feel like a fool for missing it. Just another life lesson learned.
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'69 Westfalia Camper~Cassidy
1600dp with H30/31 carb 009 distributor and alternator conversion

[ser123ser]

I went thru 4 pulls like sg kent did on my type 4. It has been a year and no leaks.

Type 1 the seal has to be perfectly flush with the outer case type 4 they push all the way in. If it is not perfectly flush you will loose the seal again....also for the money buy two seals in case you screw one up when you put it in with a hammer. Try to find something like wood to land it. Don't use a metal punch. You may tear the rubber.

Use the sand paper and polish the flywheel until it is like a mirror. Just for heck and giggles run your naked finger around the flywheel and see/feel for burrs. If you find them then at least you will know that may have caused it. But most important have no wear lines or burrs. Make it like new. Do it for about an hour. I skipped this on my first and 2nd try. Then I spent a hour and made it like new.

Also make sure the little hole below the crank is open and does not have case sealer or some other piece of shit in it. Also the entire hole that the seal sits in clean it from all case sealer or anything else. I don't think you are supposed to put sealer here but if you do real light court on the outer ring of the seal so it loads out not in to clog the return hole when you put in the seal.

Also, the dowel area with the gasket. Put on a new gasket. Use case sealant on both sides. Let the sealer dry up a little bit. Don't forget the finger of grease in the little crank hole at the end.

Use wheel bearing grease or engine build lube - lots of it on the seal and flywheel. Until the motor runs and gets oil to that area you will tear it up.

Good luck and keep trying you can do this....

Steve
Perris ca outstanding in my field

[bsairhead]

If your flywheel was an internal O-ring you do not use the paper gasket.

[Skoolieman]

[nodrenim]

I once had a problem with a type one engine flywheel seal going out after a few miles of driving, my problem stemmed from an excessive amount of crankshaft end-play. Corrected end-play, ended problem.

[Skoolieman]

That makes sense. I just checked it again and still no leaks. I will continue to drive it and if I have time maybe I will drop the motor this weekend. Like I said, we are supposed to be going to florida on wednesday for a festival and I don't want to be messing around with a rear main seal leak!
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'69 Westfalia Camper~Cassidy
1600dp with H30/31 carb 009 distributor and alternator conversion

[Olddog52]

" I did lose a hub cap going 55 today on I20 east in downtown ATL. " ~ Skoolieman.

Those high speed runs will do that.
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73 Tin Top Westy ( should have never sold her)
79 Westy Pop Top
73 Super Beetle
VW Trike with 70 engine.

[aeromech]

Best thing to do before your trip is find a nice long hill climb and go for it. The will put the most strain on your engine and breather system. If it's going to leak that will help you find it.

Ask me how I know

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Lead Mechanic: San Diego Air and Space Museum
Licensed Airframe and Powerplant Mechanic
Licensed Pilot (Single engine Land)
Boeing 727,737-200-300-400,757,767
Airbus A319,320,321
DC9/MD80
BAe146
Fokker F28/F100
VW type 1 1962,63,65,69,72
VW Type 2 1971 (3 ea.) 1978, 1969
VW Jetta
VW Passat
Capable of leaping tall buildings in a single bound

[Skoolieman]

[quote="aeromech"]Best thing to do before your trip is find a nice long hill climb and go for it. The will put the most strain on your engine and breather system. If it's going to leak that will help you find it.

Ask me how I know

That sounds like a good idea. I will take her out this evening and keep an eye on things. I love your hightop BTW!
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'69 Westfalia Camper~Cassidy
1600dp with H30/31 carb 009 distributor and alternator conversion