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srtange 10 mm nut looking thing
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Criswell
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PostPosted: Sat Nov 01, 2003 4:50 pm    Post subject: srtange 10 mm nut looking thing Reply with quote

i was attempting to turn my distributor tonight b/c the timings at 12 degrees btdc (ge engine code, best i can find in muir guide is gd engine which is supposed to be 7.5 btdc (if it should be soemthing else please let me know)... well, i loosened the 12 mm nut on the holdown, and tried to tun it ... nothin, so i thought maybe them crazy germans put a second nut or something elsewhere .... and i foinf a 2 inch ling 10 mm thingy behind the distributor ... it looks liek it goes into the piece of the engine where the oil pressuer switch and oil filter goes ... is this to manually adjust your oil pressuer or soemthing ? please help ...

thanks
mike
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D.Russell
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PostPosted: Sat Nov 01, 2003 5:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Isn't that part of the Dizzy Clamp ?? Think you loosen that to be able to turn the dizzy ?
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wgargan
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PostPosted: Sat Nov 01, 2003 6:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

the 2 inch long thingy is what you need to loosen, that is the clamp that keeps the dizzy from dizzzing all around. the one that goes in the case is what holds the clamp.
lc
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TimGud
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PostPosted: Sat Nov 01, 2003 6:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sounds like it's a distributor clamp off of a type 3.
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wgargan
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PostPosted: Sat Nov 01, 2003 6:56 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

or type 4
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Amskeptic
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PostPosted: Sat Nov 01, 2003 7:02 pm    Post subject: Re: srtange 10 mm nut looking thing Reply with quote

ZEUS wrote:
i was attempting to turn my distributor tonight b/c the timings at 12 degrees btdc (ge engine code, best i can find in muir guide is gd engine which is supposed to be 7.5 btdc (if it should be soemthing else please let me know)... well, i loosened the 12 mm nut on the holdown, and tried to tun it ... nothin, so i thought maybe them crazy germans put a second nut or something elsewhere .... and i foinf a 2 inch ling 10 mm thingy behind the distributor ... it looks liek it goes into the piece of the engine where the oil pressuer switch and oil filter goes ... is this to manually adjust your oil pressuer or soemthing ? please help ...

thanks
mike


The long 10mm nut is the adjustment for timing. They make it long so you can find it. The 13mm nut is to hold the whole contraption to the case. Remember to secure it back down. Timing should be 7.5* BTDC with your idle speed below 1,100 rpm at least.
Colin
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Randy in Maine
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PostPosted: Sat Nov 01, 2003 8:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I believe with a GE engine code you are supposed to be at 7.5 degrees ATDC.

The only reason I think that, is that mine is a GE code and I had to look it up. I thought the GE codes were the CA Special, but I could be wrong.
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ratwell
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PostPosted: Sat Nov 01, 2003 11:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

GE engines are wrong identified in Bentley as starting in 1979 and being unique to CA. GE engines were available starting in 1978 and have hydraulic lifters. I'm not sure if the last batch of 77 engines used GE codes (non-hydraulic) but from the data available it appears only 55,800 GD engines were produced and since there were more busses than that built during 76 and 77 you have to assume it's the case even taking into account all of the non-US models with 1600cc engines.

GE engines time at 7.5 BTDC unless it's a 79 CA model in which case it's 5 ATDC.
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Last edited by ratwell on Sun Nov 02, 2003 12:24 pm; edited 1 time in total
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Randy in Maine
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PostPosted: Sun Nov 02, 2003 6:51 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I stand corrected. I was basing my information on the Bentley book and miss keyed in the 5 ATDC. I need to spend more time on the internet.

I didn't know if all of the GE codes have that funky distributor and bolt or if that was just part of the CA only emissions for that year.
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Criswell
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PostPosted: Sun Nov 02, 2003 12:27 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

my engine code is definately GE , and HAS solid lifters (also has a reman by vw sticker on case back by #3 cylinder) . i know of the solid lifters because i bought hydraulics (thinking that was what i had) to replace them while the engine was apart, and couldnt use them. i did get teh dizzy to turn, that long nut did the trick. interesting how they made it with a "hold down" tab and a clamp also for tighening and loosening for adjustment ... im used to the traditional american v-8's having just the "hold down"

thanks guys
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Bottomend
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PostPosted: Sun Nov 02, 2003 1:28 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Man, this reminds me of when I first got my bus....11 months ago!!!! It took me like...a week to figure out where that bolt was and how to set my timming. I have a 1974 ( best year??!!) and it's got duel carbs with a HUGE air box sitting between the cylinders as well as a bunch of pipeing. Even something as simple as removeing a spark pulg was a half day adventure... untill I figured out that I could REMOVE THE AIR BOX!!!!!!!! DUH!!!!!!! Then every thing was out in the open. You have a 1975 so that will have FI, right? Good luck and try to get a picture of it so you can post it. Even if it's a rat trap it'll still be cool.
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Bottomend
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PostPosted: Sun Nov 02, 2003 1:30 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Man, this reminds me of when I first got my bus....11 months ago!!!! It took me like...a week to figure out where that bolt was and how to set my timming. I have a 1974 ( best year??!!) and it's got duel carbs with a HUGE air box sitting between the cylinders as well as a bunch of pipeing. Even something as simple as removeing a spark pulg was a half day adventure... untill I figured out that I could REMOVE THE AIR BOX!!!!!!!! DUH!!!!!!! Then every thing was out in the open. You have a 1975 so that will have FI, right? Good luck and try to get a picture of it so you can post it. Even if it's a rat trap it'll still be cool.
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