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DVDA Dizzy vs Solex 34 PICT3 carb with only one vacuum port
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Robbo
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Location: Middx, England
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 20, 2015 6:53 am    Post subject: DVDA Dizzy vs Solex 34 PICT3 carb with only one vacuum port Reply with quote

Hi all, a chum of mine is experiencing stalling, hesitation and idle issues with the above setup on his 71 South African Spec panel (1600DP stock motor).

The pipe behind the vacuum can (that goes to the Retard Vacuum port on the carb) is not connected to anything and seems to be open. Also the port on the carb (where the pipe joining these bits together should be) is plugged with something that looks like chewing gum (there's no brass tube sticking out either), so my questions are as follows:

1) Will the retard vacuum port on the dizzy need to be plugged?
2) I know this isn't ideal, but can this be made to run sufficiently well till more funds allow some replacement parts in a month or so?
3) If it can be made to run like this (it was running ok but the idle was low when cold and high when warm and now it wont idle at all...) and if so, what do I need to set his timing to?
I know this setup, if all connected and working dandy should be 5 degrees ATDC, but as it's not should it be like for an SVDA dizzy and be at 7.5 degrees BTDC?

I'll test the action of the dizzy to see if there's any air leaks in the vacuum can as i'm heading over to try to help him on Saturday and he's all giddy as this is his first bus (aged 43.....) Rolling Eyes

Cheers

Rob
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ROCKOROD71
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 20, 2015 7:14 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

plug the retard port on the carb and the dizzy and time it like an SVDA. Shouldn't be an issue unless there are other problems. Verify advance can is good and holding vacuum. Gap points/etc. Check for general vacuum leaks.
Only other issue is some 34-3 are made to mate with the DVDA and might have a different butterfly. The difference is a drilling in the plate used to let air pass at idle. What is the number stamped on the carb. There is a cross reference sheet platered all over this site on various threads that user Glutmado created.
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1971 STD BEETLE- DD-1st car, 1st love. keepin' it stock! 1600DP, Solex 34-3 Mexi Bosch SVDA Dist NOW w/POINTS
1977 WESTY "KrustyKamper" 2L FI
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busdaddy
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 20, 2015 7:44 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Plugging the retard port on the distributor isn't a good idea, it needs to breath to allow full movement of the rest of the unit.

You'll have to set the timing like this:
busdaddy wrote:
Here's the sermon Very Happy
First you need to determine exactly where TDC is on your pulley and then set the timing at speed like this: Here's my timing for noobs rundown (keep in mind this assumes you have a degree wheel, timing scale or dial advance timing light and know where TDC really is, if you don't understand the marks on your type 1 pulley read this: http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=251672&highlight=stock+pulley+marks ). Or if type 4 see this: http://www.ratwell.com/technical/FindTimingMark.html

If you only have one hose attached to your distributor pull it off, you don't need to cap it (no need on single hose systems), if you have 2 pull them both off but plug the one that was connected to the nipple facing the distributor (retard {not you, that's what the hose does}). Now connect the timing light to the battery and the #1 plug wire according to the timing light instructions (and set it to zero if it's the type with adjustments). Now start the engine and shoot the timing light at the scale and pulley (hold the light in your right hand), see the mark on the pulley?, good. Now using your left hand slowly open the throttle on the side of the carb or throttle body (move it the same way the cable pulls it) and watch the timing mark VS: the scale, the mark on the pulley should start to move to the left, open the throttle a little more and continue until the mark no longer moves to the left any more (yes it's loud, isn't it?), give it a bit more throttle just to confirm the mark is staying put at wherever it stopped (hopefully 28 degrees) and then release the throttle. If it stopped at 28 move on to carb/FI adjustment, if it went past or didn't make it all the way loosen the distributor clamp a little and turn the distributor a few degrees one way or the other (you pick, if it's worse go the other way), repeat until you find the happy spot and don't forget to tighten the clamp when you are done (make sure the distributor is pushed down all the way into the case too). Avoid loose fitting clothing and long hair near spinning fans and belts too, no need for a trip to emergency. Now put the hose back on, pack up the timing light and move on to carb or FI adjustment.


As for the crappy idle and hesitation set the timing first, then remove both adjustment screws (count turns CW to the bottom first and make a note so you can replace them in the same position), the solenoid on the left side of the carb and the hex headed idle jet on the upper right and blow compressed air through everything, reinstall the solenoid securely, put both adjustment screws back in and reinstall the idle jet (do not overtorque it, just because it has a hex head doesn't mean it's a bolt). Get the engine fully warmed up and see how the smaller adjustment screw responds, try it in and out until you get the fastest/smoothest idle and then turn it slightly CW so the idle just barely starts to drop.

Assuming the manifold preheat tubes across between the exhaust ports get too hot to touch quickly and the aircleaner preheat is connected and working it should run well, if not report back for phase 2.
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Tcash
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 20, 2015 8:53 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

You should always start with a basic tune.
Valves
Plugs
Dwell
Timing
Carb

Also disconnect and connect the wire on the idle cut off solenoid #14 while you have it out and make sure the plunger is being pulled in and is staying in.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Good day
Tcash
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Robbo
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 21, 2015 4:51 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks everyone, we shall go through the lot at the weekend and let you know the outcome.
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