Sliding door handle re-keying how-to

[tdivan82]

[ALIKA T3]

I've never heard of it being reproduced by itself unfortunately.
Maybe a tiny o'ring would work the same and get crushed to get the same shape once installed?
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[Pascal]

Has anyone found a replacement seal that fits on the sliding door lock cylinder that is in this picture?

Is it the same seal that fits the front door cylinders that is 111837227B and NLA? I can’t find the part number on ETKA for the slider door cylinder seal. Thanks
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'84 Westy - 2.2wbx, GT Torque-Biasing Differential
'91 EA Cabby

[0to60in6min]

you don't need to drill out the grub screw. It's a very small screw with a small plastic cover on it. Pull the plastic cover out and use a s mall screwdriver to take the screw out. Proceed in reverse upon reassembling.

[syncrodoka]

Don't drill out anything. There is some threadlock on the grub screw that needs to be picked out before it is backed out.

[windnsea]

Could someone clarify for me the issue of the 'grub screw and cover'? The original posting suggests drilling out the grub screw, and then after resetting the lock tumblers reinserting it. My question is - are you just drilling out a cover and then unscrewing the screw, or if drilling out both, what will be used then as a grub screw? Part number or ?? - do you have to rethread the screw hole for a larger set screw, and if so, what size was used.

Thanks in advance.

Windnsea

I'm tired of hauling around two keys!!

[syncrodoka]

I have the older version of this snap-on radiator pick that I slip in at the end of the handle and gently pry the plastic grip off with.

There are 2 metal tabs that are cast into the back of the handle on the flat part that snap into a pair of tabs on the the plastic grip.

[VeeDubDaySpa]

Syncrodoka, so how do you remove the plastic part without ruining it??
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North American Hightop Installer/Distributor
Current stock (5)
Hot Water Systems
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90 Syncro NAHT Vanagon RHINO
86 "Syncro" Van DIAMOND
87 Syncro Hightop WestyCamper ROCKY (for sale soon)
79 bay window OLIVER

[syncrodoka]

Removing the black plastic finger cover is the hardest part of the process, the cover isn't simply snapped into place. There are a pair of metal posts that protrude from the handle under the cover that slide onto a pair of metal sleeved keepers in the cover.

[rmcd]

Thanks. Now on to the plastic. I'll try hot water and a small screw driver.
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VW LT40 build. Like a Vanagon but 30% larger in every direction and 40% slower even in metric.
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=749359&highlight=

[syncrodoka]

Paint stripper on a q-tip for more pecise placement will remove any powdercoat that gets into holes that the powdercoater inevitably will not mask off. As long as you have the cylinder, the spring and the locking bar out you are good to go.

[davideric9]

If the lock cylinder is out, you've done it all. The remaining silver part at the bottom with the lock code stamped on it does not come out (afaik). Make sure they tape off everything that is not visible from the outside of the van so the size of the holes does not change (too much powder can be too thick to reinstall moving parts).
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1987 Syncro Westfalia, stock (bought 1994)
1986 Syncro Westfalia SVX, 3 knob (bought 2008)
1987 Westfalia (bought 2010)
1988 Wolfsburg GL (bought 2012)

[rmcd]

I can't find any explanation how to remove the last part of the slider handle lock. I've removed the grub screw and lock cylinder in preparation for powder coating. How do you remove the last piece?

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VW LT40 build. Like a Vanagon but 30% larger in every direction and 40% slower even in metric.
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=749359&highlight=

[yiucycle]

Thanks again for the post, i was able to rekey my sliding door and rear hitch door. Now i can lock the hatch instead of using a wood block to lock it.

As for the hitch lock, if it is lock in the "open" position, which prevent it from accessing the pin(which holds the lock core and that triangle push widge thing). You can try dremel/drill access holes 90 degree from the original access hole. you will need two, one on each side to form a cross. then push the pin out from the newly drill access hole. Afterward, you can pull the widge out and push the lock core out the other side.

FYI: i never done this method since the PO didn't place the pin back so i was able to pull the wedge out and push the lock core out. But this method will save you the trouble of sourcing any other hitch lock and save $180.

[/quote]
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1980 2.8LV6 Fiero ASI/Riviera Vanagon
"there is no point in being embarrassed of all the stupid shit i done and will continue to do"

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[odamark]

The spring was a little tricky but much easier (once I figured it out) than the door spring. Locks updated, cleaned and reinstalled! Thanks, I appreciate the help.

[westofcenter]

[70coupyel]

[westofcenter]

So I am attempting to get my hatch key to match my other keys and am having trouble removing the tumbler. I cannot insert my key and I am assuming it is unlocked since I can open the door. I cannot see any pin or release screw to gain access to the tumbler? Anybody have the trick?

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1982 Westy
1986 Vanagon GL

[70coupyel]

[r39o]