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What's this part that is leaking? (Transmission nosecone)
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zozo
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PostPosted: Mon May 06, 2013 7:18 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

It's been on there since I got the bus about 7 years ago. Until now it's never given me problems, and even this is more the lack of the safety wire than the coupler. I have a Berg shifter, also in it when I got it, and really like the way it shifts.
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BarryL Premium Member
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PostPosted: Mon May 06, 2013 7:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

It's urethane and they transmit loud sound to the shifter handle area that you can hear usually. The original style are meant to insulate the sound and vibration. The urethane will give you a very positive feel to the shift though.
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j.pickens
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PostPosted: Mon May 06, 2013 6:42 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Is that a plastic coupler? Any comments on if these are any good?
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Eric&Barb
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PostPosted: Mon May 06, 2013 6:11 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

That should work.

You can buy inexpensive safety glasses with magnification in a bifocal style to help with close up work like that.
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zozo
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PostPosted: Mon May 06, 2013 1:29 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

All to often it seems like when I read about someone's problem, I have the same problem soon after.

Went out in the bus on Saturday afternoon to fill up with gas, get some paint, groceries, etc and started having shifting difficulties that got progressively worse as I went further and shifted more. By the time I'd gotten to the gas station, filled up, and started to leave, it didn't want to go into gear at all. Odd. When I'd pulled it into the garage last it was fine, with nothing out of the ordinary at all. Hmmmmmm......

Since I'd not had issues leading up to it, I was guessing/hoping that my clutch cable was the culprit, but to my surprise, it's fine. Got to snooping around and noticed that the rear shift coupler wasn't safety wired. Odd. It hasn't been touched in the 7 years that I've been driving it, so why on earth would there be a problem with it now? Anyway, I reached up and grabbed the rear grub screw, and it was too tight to move. I grabbed the front grub screw, and it wasn't even finger tight. I tightened it about 2 turns with my fingers, that's how loose it was. To fix it, I got a little wrench, tightened it up, and put a safety wire on it to keep it from vibrating loose again.

I was really lucky it didn't fall out, if for no other reason than I'd have to locate a replacement. Anyway, after tightening it and safety wiring it, the bus is back to shifting like it always has - like butta.


I hope neatness doesn't count. My vision is so bad when I'm under the bus and at that distance that it was done mostly by braille. Function over form I guess.
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brettsvw
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PostPosted: Mon May 06, 2013 12:57 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I am glad to hear any information that would help to prevent problems down the road .

I drove a Westy through many states when I was younger for many years and had many part failures due to me or someone else not doing the proper job.

Thanks for the info Clara.
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BarryL Premium Member
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PostPosted: Mon May 06, 2013 9:30 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

hitest wrote:
Doesn't the service bulletin #2-2334A call for a running gap between the end of that grub screw and the pit of the dimple to be between 30-40/1000s?

Is that gap not perfectly satisfied by a loosely wired grub screw that has backed its way out by approx. 31-39 degrees of counterclockwise play?


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Clara Premium Member
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PostPosted: Mon May 06, 2013 6:17 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

zozo wrote:
64+65doubledoor wrote:
Both holes should be facing the front of bus and all slotted screws on bus aligned front to back ,nuts and bolts square and parallel with frame sides


If it gets to that point, you need medication. Lol


I know someone who bought a restored split beetle that had the screws aligned.
he made a list pages long of what was wrong with it.
It was also undrivable, and the motor was non running. It was pretty, though. If you care about the screw alignment, which I don't.

What I wrote about safety wire was for functions sake, not looks.
These nice greasy grub screws can back out on you, which gives sloppy shifting, and if that is left long enough, can lead to popping out of gear.
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zozo
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PostPosted: Mon May 06, 2013 5:26 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

64+65doubledoor wrote:
Both holes should be facing the front of bus and all slotted screws on bus aligned front to back ,nuts and bolts square and parallel with frame sides


If it gets to that point, you need medication. Lol
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64+65doubledoor
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PostPosted: Mon May 06, 2013 5:11 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Both holes should be facing the front of bus and all slotted screws on bus aligned front to back ,nuts and bolts square and parallel with frame sides
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PostPosted: Sun May 05, 2013 9:26 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

hitest wrote:
Doesn't the service bulletin #2-2334A call for a running gap between the end of that grub screw and the pit of the dimple to be between 30-40/1000s?

Is that gap not perfectly satisfied by a loosely wired grub screw that has backed its way out by approx. 31-39 degrees of counterclockwise play?


Yes, there has to be a gap between the TIP of the grub screw, but not between the angled sides of the tip of the grub screw. If the tip bottomed out first it would do same damage as letting the grub screw ride loose....
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hitest
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PostPosted: Sun May 05, 2013 9:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Doesn't the service bulletin #2-2334A call for a running gap between the end of that grub screw and the pit of the dimple to be between 30-40/1000s?

Is that gap not perfectly satisfied by a loosely wired grub screw that has backed its way out by approx. 31-39 degrees of counterclockwise play?
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PostPosted: Sun May 05, 2013 9:07 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

customcityjim wrote:
You people have totally lost it.


Yes, and we all enjoy it that way! Wink
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customcityjim
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PostPosted: Sun May 05, 2013 8:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

You people have totally lost it.

Last edited by customcityjim on Sun May 05, 2013 8:47 pm; edited 1 time in total
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PostPosted: Sun May 05, 2013 6:42 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

customcityjim wrote:
That safety wire makes no difference as to how it is turned. As long as the wire is not broken.


Sorry but it does. Loosening only a quarter of a turn will allow the bolt to wallow out the hole in the shift rod and make for sloppy shifter. BTDT, had to weld up the dimple tapered hole, hand grind a drill bit to remake the hole with proper angle in our 1963 SC!

As for the image Clara posted. The right side of image safety wire is great the left side is iffy.
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mickey86004
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PostPosted: Sat May 04, 2013 11:01 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

customcityjim wrote:
That safety wire makes no difference as to how it is turned. As long as the wire is not broken.


Rolling Eyes Next time I will be sure to put mine on in the direction of the way the bolt loosens. Laughing That way if it does come loose it can only go a half turn.
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customcityjim
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PostPosted: Sat May 04, 2013 10:37 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

That safety wire makes no difference as to how it is turned. As long as the wire is not broken.
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ccb_dan
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PostPosted: Sat May 04, 2013 9:08 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for the pic and info Clara!
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Clara Premium Member
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PostPosted: Sat May 04, 2013 8:08 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Riff Raff wrote:
What joe said^^

Most transmissions seep a little bit from this area


x2

FWIW, you do need to pull the engine and tranny to re-bush the nosecone.
If it were just a small drip and there was nothing wrong with the engine/ tranny, I would put it off until there was another reason for engine or tranny pull.

If it stops leaking on its own, you are out of oil.
Do check gear oil level and top up if needed.

FWIW, the safety wire of the coupler grub screws is backward. should be so as to pull it tighter.
like this:
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ccb_dan
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PostPosted: Sat May 04, 2013 8:00 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Awesome! Thank you all for your help!
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