Fuel injection swapped for carbs on automatic Vanagon

[owenL]

I have a 1981 2.0L Vanagon (air-cooled) with an automatic transmission. The previous owner removed the original fuel injection system and stuck on two 34mm Weber carburetors. I’m having a lot of trouble getting it to accelerate and break 50mph. Has anyone made this conversion before? Is it possible to put carbs on a van with an automatic transmission and have it work the way it’s supposed to?

[Silverghost500]

Aircooled.net has a kit that switches from FI to dual carbs. They may be able to help you with some ideas on getting better performance

http://vwparts.aircooled.net/Waterboxer-Dual-40-IDF-Carburetor-Kit-p/waterboxer-dual-idf.htm
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1986 Volkswagen Vanagon Westfalia "Von Westy"
Honda K24A converversion-Road Testing Phase
3-Speed Automatic

Von Westy YouTube Channel
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCbhyZYxJEQrUuLnMbLleeIA

[MarkWard]

Could you post a picture. I’d like to see how the relay rod between the carb linkage and the automatic.
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[Wildthings]

Find an original L-jet FI system and install it. A Digijet system from an 83-85 could easily be made to work as well.

To get an aftermarket carb to work is apt to take a bit of work. Have you checked your timing? If you time your engine to the factory spec and the vacuum retard function isn't working properly your timing is going to be way way off.

You want to time your engine to 28° BTDC @3500+ rpm, hose(s) off and plugged. You probably are not going to want to reattach the vacuum retard hose if it was attached as your retard can is likely bad and your carbs likely are not set up to work with a vacuum retard function.

[danfromsyr]

indeed they very likely just eliminated the throttle connection to the relay lever (Manual Valve) on the pass side of the automatic
this throttle input is crucial to how the automatic shifts. and it's likely that your lever (if it's even attached) is too far rearward (towards the motor) and it's not shifting into all gears.

if you have the relay lever on the side of automatic, rig it in the middle of it's swing. with wire or what not.

you won't have a properly functioning kick-down but you can always manually pull the shifter into 2nd on hills or for passing
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[Wildthings]

[MarkWard]

Earlier VW Bus automatics had a vacuum servo for kick down and load sensing. I believe they were 003 automatics, but don't quote me.

Somebody with some fabrication skills could utilize a cable to handle the relay between the automatic and the carb linkage rather than trying to get the solid rod to work. Late 80 automatic vw cars used a cable for that link.

It's solvable, but likely not off the shelf stuff.
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[danfromsyr]

indeed the 1973, 1974, 1975 Bay bus 003 automatics had a vacuum connection. but they used a switch in the base of the throttle pedal to activate the kick down.
the vacuum was to adjust firmness of shifts, light throttle light up shift, heavy throttle heavy up shifts.

the 1976-1991 bay/vanagon used a mechanical lever off the throttle linkage which I suspect is now disconnected or missing altogether.

indeed there won't be any off the shelf fixes.
indeed it can be made to work. using a 2nd cable system.
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[Zeitgeist 13]

My buddy figured out how to fabricate the throttle linkage from an auto to carb on an AC van, but it took hours of fiddling around to get it to work correctly under all scenarios...and that was with a Weber progressive carb. Personally, I'd rather fix the injection than bother with carbs.
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Casey--

'89 Bluestar ALH w/12mm Waldo pump, PP764 and GT2052
'01 Weekender --> full camper
y u rune klassik?

[danfromsyr]

in the 86 westy mom drives with the I5 2.5l swap and automatic.
I ran 2 cables from the front throttle pedal.
one to the throttle body and one to the transmission relay lever
I used a spring to return the relay lever rearward and had minor adjustment to make sure that the kickdown function hits just before full throttle.
it has to do that since I didn't want to configure an 'over reach' throttle mechanism like the OEM does.
you really don't notice the difference of WOT or 95% throttle to achieve kickdown in an underpowered brick.

it's a custom bracket for the cables to pass thru up front to get the 2 cables mounted & clamped to the pedal linkage.

OR, one can use the stock automatic cable from pedal to lever.
then fabricate a bracket to hold a cable that would go from the lever to the carb linkage. again set adjustment for the kickdown to be at the last bit of throttle.

it's really not that difficult
people tend to over think it. or neglect it altogether.
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