Rookie error with clutch slave...help with bleed

[bac914]

So I pulled the tranny and had it rebuilt (syncro with svx if relevant). Upon reinstall, I mistakingly pulled on the clutch slave rod and extended it a bit. Clutch still works, but engagement point is much closer to the floor. It's actually a bit more comfortable that way as there isn't as much force pushing back giving my left thigh a work out.

I'm assuming I have a bubble in the line. I don't have a pressure bleeder. Can I just open the bleed valve and have someone step on the clutch? Then close the bleeder and release said clutch? If I get lucky, the bubble is right by the slave and I'm done in one or two pumps? Or will this method introduce more air? Do I just need to get the right tool and bleed it right?

Or can I just drive it like this? Or is my diagnosis way off and I should do something else altogether?

Thanks, Brian

[tschroeder0]

Yep, push pedal, crack bleeder, repeat.

[t3 kopf]

have your buddy step on the clutch and hold..with a hose on the bleed screw, loosen 7mm bleeder screw and fluid will come out. when fluid stops close screw and then tell buddy to release pedal. repeat until no bubbles come out. watch the level on the reservoir.
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'90 Carat w/ '95 phase 1 EJ22 OBD2 conversion

[greenbrier62]

I extended the slave push rod as I was inspecting the slave cylinder; should I not have done that?

I'm having a lot of trouble bleeding my new slave cylinder/clutch line. It seems the transmission arm that the slave cylinder engages is fully engaged...I can only push it up and it will not pull down anymore. There is about an 1.5" of total movement...Ben on another post said his was at 42 minutes on a hand clock and 47 minutes...I'll double check that...

Thanks in advance,
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1987 Vanagon camper
2005 VW Passat TDI
1962 Chevy Greenbrier

[insyncro]

POWER BLEEDER

If the slave will not release...new or used, chances are moisture has entered the cylinder and created some corrosion.

With all new brake parts, on my bench, before installation, i fill each with new brake fluid and "Prime" them if you will.
The slave can be filled and attached to the hydraulic line and than reistalled into the bracket.
This is how it must be done on certain conversions with upgraded bellhousings.
Allow gravity to some of the work for you if you do not have a power bleeder, but I recommend getting one, making one or borrowing one.

[greenbrier62]

Thanks insyncro. I'll look a my FLAPS and see if they have one.

I would say the clutch arm is at 47 minutes right now, so I would assume there is movement downward to obtain "42 minutes." Would I be able to manually pull the arm down?
_________________
1987 Vanagon camper
2005 VW Passat TDI
1962 Chevy Greenbrier

[insyncro]

[insyncro]

Motive Power Bleeders are available with the proper end to attach to the Vanagon resi.
Some of the cost effective bleeders will need an adapter costing half that of the Motive.
EBay is your friend for good prices and free shipping.
Search other threads on the subject for deals and home brew builds.

[t'sunamibus]

all you need ( at least myself the last 37 years of maintaining my own vehicles) is a vacuum hose that will tightly fit on the bleeder zirc and a clear jar with enough fluid to submerge the loose end of the vacuum hose. Crack the zirc and slowly cycle the brake ( or clutch ) pedal and watch the submerged hose, it will eventually stop putting out air bubbles, or dirty fluid if fresh fluid is your goal. Easy and fool proof and cheap. Ive done my clutch and brakes on my vanagon recently and it works excellent..and most important it makes it a fool proof 1 man job. Oh, and keep in mind that as you are slowly pumping fluid into the jar you need to keep adding fluid to the reservoir.