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Might be T4 Front Flywheel Oil Main Seal leak breakthough
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SGKent Premium Member
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PostPosted: Sun May 12, 2013 4:27 pm    Post subject: Might be T4 Front Flywheel Oil Main Seal leak breakthough Reply with quote

We put this seal in dry because using silicone caused it to creep loose. The engine was dry for about 2500 miles then a small very tiny drip started in the usual place. While the bus was jacked up butt high for the last 4 weeks the seepage got worse. So today to check the cause and verify that the endplay was holding solid I finally got around to smashing my finger and pulling the engine. I think it was in that order. No biggee on the finger, it will heal. Anyway below you will see a photo of the seal and where the leak appears to be coming from. Right along the lower case parting line where the seal sits down into it. I suspect that all the talk lately of high - low oil levels and leaks, all the years of discussion of main seals failing is related to this little seam and the seal not fully closing that area off. You can see the wet spot where the oil was oozing out ever so slowly.

I think the solution will be to use some permatex or something like it right in the seam areas and that should do it. The rest of the outside of the seal is dry and there was no oil on the flat face so it was not the ring that seals around the flywheel that failed.

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larrydeville
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PostPosted: Sun May 12, 2013 6:01 pm    Post subject: oil seal leak Reply with quote

You,Bus Daddy and Wild Thing have helped me so many times. I seem to have more and more extra parts because I cant wait to build another engine so when I saw this post it went under my hat. Thx....Larry
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PostPosted: Sun May 12, 2013 6:18 pm    Post subject: Re: Might be T4 Front Flywheel Oil Main Seal leak breakthoug Reply with quote

SGKent wrote:
I think the solution will be to use some permatex or something like it right in the seam areas and that should do it. The rest of the outside of the seal is dry and there was no oil on the flat face so it was not the ring that seals around the flywheel that failed.


I usually smear a bit of Permatex on the parting line in addition to any Permatex I may decide to use or not use on the exterior of the seal. It has always just seemed like a good thing to do. Kind of goes back to the idea of using a dab of Permatex on the joining lines on old fashion split rear main seals.
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PostPosted: Sun May 12, 2013 6:34 pm    Post subject: Re: Might be T4 Front Flywheel Oil Main Seal leak breakthoug Reply with quote

Wildthings wrote:
SGKent wrote:
I think the solution will be to use some permatex or something like it right in the seam areas and that should do it. The rest of the outside of the seal is dry and there was no oil on the flat face so it was not the ring that seals around the flywheel that failed.


I usually smear a bit of Permatex on the parting line in addition to any Permatex I may decide to use or not use on the exterior of the seal. It has always just seemed like a good thing to do. Kind of goes back to the idea of using a dab of Permatex on the joining lines on old fashion split rear main seals.


that is why yours didn't leak. We always used gascacinch or RTV and with both my main seal tried to run away it was moving so fast out of the bore so I installed it dry. This time I used Curil-K2. We'll see. I didn't have any permatex but that has always worked well for me in the past. I used to have a tube of their really industrial stuff and it was killer on all the other engines I built over the years. Oh well, just getting ready to mate the trans and came in for a break. Hope this holds. Used my new T4 main installed tool - really slick how it works. Fooop it is in even.
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PostPosted: Sun May 12, 2013 7:23 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

makes sense for sure...but i would have thought that the seal itself would have 'oozed' into the parting line, thus sealing it. unless of course there was a huge crater. is the T4 different in this area vs a T1?
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PostPosted: Sun May 12, 2013 7:29 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

there is no crater. I suspect that capillary action pulled the oil through slowly. The face of the seal was dry and the seam still has Curil in it except where the seal went.
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PostPosted: Sun May 12, 2013 8:02 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

ok, sounds like this might be a good solution.

Btw where is the pic of the finger...
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old DKP driver
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PostPosted: Sun May 12, 2013 8:46 pm    Post subject: seal difference Reply with quote

Steve,
Coincidence? After a great Mothers Day barbecue. my Daughter in-law
asked about an oil leak on her Vanagon. She had a clutch job and seals done on the heads 2k.miles ago.Now it has a leak again.
and She went on google and found this article.

http://www.gowesty.com/library_article.php?id=535
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PostPosted: Sun May 12, 2013 9:45 pm    Post subject: Re: seal difference Reply with quote

old DKP driver wrote:
Steve,
Coincidence? After a great Mothers Day barbecue. my Daughter in-law
asked about an oil leak on her Vanagon. She had a clutch job and seals done on the heads 2k.miles ago.Now it has a leak again.
and She went on google and found this article.

http://www.gowesty.com/library_article.php?id=535


Thanks Chris - interesting article. I will keep it in mind and try that route next if this fails. Engine is back in now.

Let me share what I discovered on this engine. 3000 miles. It is sitting ass end high on jack stands right now. After 1 week the size of the spot would be a dollar bill or on a hot week a pie plate if it spreads. Engine is not running cause it is on jack stands. When it was level the leak was two or three drops a week. It is green new engine oil, Brad Pitt and not trans fluid. Coming from the engine / trans mating area.

bell housing - bone dry
Clutch side bone dry
back of flywheel bone dry
Case bone dry
drip was 100% along seam line. dried it with a rag and nothing oozes out
Exterior face of VR orange seal - bone dry
surface around seal bone dry except for right at the lower seam
I pulled it out - looked all the way around it - bone dry EXCEPT at seam
Looked at it with magnifying glass - seal showed it had done its job and microscopically filled seam line but that area on seal was also wet with oil (see photo). I believe that when the bus is on a slope, the oil in the mains drips down to the lowest level in that seal and weeps out along the seam line - al least it did on mine. I used some Curil K2 and we shall see it that gets it. If not we'll try the genuine seal. I looked at the spring on the VR seal while it was out and it is pretty heavy a spring. The drain hole is also open.

Note - this is the first main seal leak I have had on a VW. Usually it was the pushrod tubes on my T1 or a crack in the case or a stud leaking, cracked generator stand etc.
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PostPosted: Sun May 12, 2013 10:38 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The normal sitting oil level for a Type 4 engine is well below the level of the bottom of the pulley seal, the oil level on a sitting engine is going to be below the bottom of the camshaft so it will be well below the level of the crank. Even if the seal was holed right on the bottom at the seam, it is hard to see how it could leak much after shutdown. There should only have a teaspoon or two in the recess behind the seal and it should not be replenished after shutdown.

Not sure of the source of your leak, but it just doesn't sound to me like it can be the pulley seal. Confused Hope something works for you soon though.
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PostPosted: Mon May 13, 2013 7:30 am    Post subject: flywheel seal Reply with quote

Yes, it was interesting reading and I hope the $29.95 is different from
the others.

I also hope Angelina does not see this post as I really didn't think you meant
what his name???? Laughing

I too use the Green oil
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PostPosted: Mon May 13, 2013 7:49 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

This is some nice detective work. One thing I have noticed over the years happening with seal materials as they are constantly getting upgraded to deal tith both modern lubricants and with modern raw materials.....is that the durometer or hardness of the synthetic rubber compounds is all over the place....and frequently is harder than normal.

What this means is that rubber compounds which are harder cannot conform to surface imperfections as well. In the case of shaft seals...it also means that the lips of the seal are stiffer and do not conform to the shaft as well. This is something I have observed...and that Colin commented on in a thread afew days back with reference to the main....where it is getting noticably harder at times for the hose sprig int the main seal to maintain tight contact with the flywheel sealing surface.

I noticed a lot of this a few years back when I was diagnosing the 10.5mm versus 12mm seal depth issue on my 412.

I also noticed this on front wheel bearing seals. Some have gotten so hard that they need to be pounded into the rotor and then the lips seal for crap.

Also transmission gasketing for my 412 is frequently too hard to seal to very minor case imperfection...so they weep and seep.

This is why I started the practice of roller applying extremely thin layers of RTV ...usually only a few microns deep up to about .0002" in thickness (that's about 5.8 microns). Then let it dry...then drive in the seal. It gives it just enogh surfacee squish to sill imperfections...but because its not going in with wet RTV on the seal...it does not act like a lubricant and let the seal slip out. I did awrite up with links to pictures about sptember of 2011. Ray
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PostPosted: Mon May 13, 2013 8:13 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

there was no puddle this morning so I will check tonight when we get home. The only thing that has changed is the Curil K-2 around the new seal. Because the face was dry and the back of the flywheel dusty with no signs of oil, I know it wasn't slinging off the seal lip. I'll post again this afternoon if there are any signs of a leak.
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PostPosted: Mon May 13, 2013 7:46 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

SGKent wrote:
there was no puddle this morning so I will check tonight when we get home. The only thing that has changed is the Curil K-2 around the new seal. Because the face was dry and the back of the flywheel dusty with no signs of oil, I know it wasn't slinging off the seal lip. I'll post again this afternoon if there are any signs of a leak.


I love razor-blade machining so much that I smooth the case parting line and the the entire circumferential chamfer of the main seal opening.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


I just reset the endplay to .003" yesterday on the 1600 singleport and my initial main seal job was bone-dry after 22,000 miles of itinerary travels. I am using Indian Head Shellac on the perimeter of the seal and a little dip of moly on the lip.

Wanna see the engine? I repainted the tins. Four days until I am off around the country, on the road until October 19th.
Colin:
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PostPosted: Mon May 13, 2013 8:12 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

looks good Colin.

I used Curil K2 and it did not try to creep back out. Nary a leak as of tonight. We are headed to Yosemite in early June so I pray it will hold. BusDaddy said in another thread on main seals that he uses Curil K2 so I hope for the best.
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PostPosted: Mon May 13, 2013 8:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

SGKent wrote:
looks good Colin.

I used Curil K2 and it did not try to creep back out. Nary a leak as of tonight. We are headed to Yosemite in early June so I pray it will hold. BusDaddy said in another thread on main seals that he uses Curil K2 so I hope for the best.


We can cry in our beer if our buses mark your garage floor when we take the a/c Honda to lunch . . .
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PostPosted: Mon May 13, 2013 8:44 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Amskeptic wrote:
SGKent wrote:
looks good Colin.

I used Curil K2 and it did not try to creep back out. Nary a leak as of tonight. We are headed to Yosemite in early June so I pray it will hold. BusDaddy said in another thread on main seals that he uses Curil K2 so I hope for the best.


We can cry in our beer if our buses mark your garage floor when we take the a/c Honda to lunch . . .
Colin


I am not worried about a drop or two... what scares the heck out of me is how that thing slid back out when silicone was on it several years ago when I built it. Moved twice as fast as the local snails Smile I just don't want a to be towed home from Yosemite with a blown engine if that seal tries to pop out and dumps the oil. I suspect that the taper in the flywheel would hold it in far enough to prevent a catastrophic failure but I don't want to find out. It went in pretty tight with the seal tool so my guess is that the Curil K2 is not slippery like the RTV was to it. I had a oil filter gasket ooze out on me using gasgacinch and frankly this is the first time in my life I have ever seen some of these things happen on any engine.
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PostPosted: Mon May 13, 2013 9:17 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

SGKent wrote:
I am not worried about a drop or two... what scares the heck out of me is how that thing slid back out when silicone was on it several years ago when I built it. Moved twice as fast as the local snails Smile I just don't want a to be towed home from Yosemite with a blown engine if that seal tries to pop out and dumps the oil. I suspect that the taper in the flywheel would hold it in far enough to prevent a catastrophic failure but I don't want to find out. It went in pretty tight with the seal tool so my guess is that the Curil K2 is not slippery like the RTV was to it. I had a oil filter gasket ooze out on me using gasgacinch and frankly this is the first time in my life I have ever seen some of these things happen on any engine.


I have been a fan of silicone for decades, but very quickly found out it could not be used on shaft seals. It might be all right on seals that have an all metal shell, but the ones wrapped with rubber will waltz right back out just as fast as you drive can them in.
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PostPosted: Thu May 16, 2013 8:06 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

well................. I lied.

Sunday thru Wednesday it sat, rear end of the bus in the air with the new seal. Not a drop of oil from it. Completely dry. Then this morning we are back to a quarter sized drop on the floor somewhere between 9pm and 6am. Gonna scream.
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PostPosted: Thu May 16, 2013 12:17 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

SGKent wrote:
well................. I lied.

Sunday thru Wednesday it sat, rear end of the bus in the air with the new seal. Not a drop of oil from it. Completely dry. Then this morning we are back to a quarter sized drop on the floor somewhere between 9pm and 6am. Gonna scream.


That blows. I've been watching and hoping you fixed it.

Maybe the NOS seals gowesty sells will do the trick.
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