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Fuel Tank Shut Off Solenoid Install
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Tcash
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PostPosted: Wed May 15, 2013 3:35 pm    Post subject: Fuel Tank Shut Off Solenoid Install Reply with quote

Thanks to Opossum & scrivyscriv

Opossum wrote:
Parts you need:

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Bought
Valve from here: http://www.afcvalves.com/mod121.html
Center AN fitting: http://www.anplumbing.com/Adapters/Aluminum-14.html
Gas tank fitting (right piece): http://www.cbperformance.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=3288

All for less than $ 100.00

When installed:

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Make sure you:
Use gas rated Teflon tape or sealant on threads.
Use the bolt on top of fuel cut off solenoid to make bracket for extra support. You don't want the valve to wiggle.
Hook up solenoid to same wire that runs fuel pump. Hopefully the fuel pump is wired correctly through a relay.

I've had this on since April of 2011 and it works great and gives piece of mind. Shuts off fuel when engine is shut off and no rubber hose to rot out between valve and tank.


scrivyscriv wrote:
Just miked and checked thread pitch on my '72 tank, it's an M18x1.0.
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GeorgeO.
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PostPosted: Wed May 15, 2013 3:55 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Gonna get me one for my bus. Thanks for the information!
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Wildthings
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PostPosted: Wed May 15, 2013 4:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for the parts list, this might inspire me to get going on my own system.

As a theft deterrent I want to power mine through the ignition and have a hidden cut off switch up front somewhere.
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tootype2crazy
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PostPosted: Wed May 15, 2013 4:29 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I am failing to understand how this attaches to the tank. Do you have to cut off the old spout and then drill a hole? If so that would be great because the supply side on my FI tank broke off and is about 1/4" long - just enough to get a hose on and clamp down securely. I need to fix it but I wasn't sure how as the originals are brazed on I believe and I am not getting a torch anywhere near my gas tank.
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busdaddy
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PostPosted: Wed May 15, 2013 4:47 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

tootype2crazy wrote:
I am failing to understand how this attaches to the tank. Do you have to cut off the old spout and then drill a hole? If so that would be great because the supply side on my FI tank broke off and is about 1/4" long - just enough to get a hose on and clamp down securely. I need to fix it but I wasn't sure how as the originals are brazed on I believe and I am not getting a torch anywhere near my gas tank.

It's only suitable for tanks up to 74, later ones have a welded on nipple with no threads.
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rneithammer
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PostPosted: Wed May 15, 2013 5:36 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm getting ready to so this myself. Got the parts kit as recommended by OPossum, and I also got a right angle AN6 to 1/4" NPT fitting in addition to the straight version. Not sure how I'm going to rig a support bracket for the solenoid valve, but I'm sure that I want to do it in some way that does not involve drilling holes in the bus. Any suggestions?
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SGKent Premium Member
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PostPosted: Wed May 15, 2013 7:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I remember a sender about that weight and length snapping off a fitting about that size at Willow Springs Raceway. Cause - a little weight with a lot of leverage can do strange things. Also the piece you connect to is only as thick as the inside OD to the valley in the thread. It isn't as thick as one thinks. I'd rethink that so the weight is carried by a bulkhead and the connector is flexible but who am I to know anything.
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mnskmobi
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PostPosted: Wed May 15, 2013 8:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

SGKent wrote:
I remember a sender about that weight and length snapping off a fitting about that size at Willow Springs Raceway. Cause - a little weight with a lot of leverage can do strange things. Also the piece you connect to is only as thick as the inside OD to the valley in the thread. It isn't as thick as one thinks. I'd rethink that so the weight is carried by a bulkhead and the connector is flexible but who am I to know anything.


I had exactly the same thought on seeing the installation photo. I imagine it could also crack where the fitting goes into the tank... Shocked
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Wildthings
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PostPosted: Wed May 15, 2013 8:45 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

SGKent wrote:
I remember a sender about that weight and length snapping off a fitting about that size at Willow Springs Raceway. Cause - a little weight with a lot of leverage can do strange things. Also the piece you connect to is only as thick as the inside OD to the valley in the thread. It isn't as thick as one thinks. I'd rethink that so the weight is carried by a bulkhead and the connector is flexible but who am I to know anything.
I was thinking that running a piece of steel tubing might be called for with the valve firmly attached to the frame close by.
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Desertbusman
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PostPosted: Wed May 15, 2013 9:46 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Here is my custom tank connector from last year. Likewise I did not want the valve hanging off the tank but rather securely mounted elsewhere. It has 1/8" FNPT for either a 1/4" tubing fitting or a 1/4" hose barb. Preferably steel tubing if the valve is mounted to the body somewhere or hose if the valve is mounted to a bracket on the trans. Try to keep the valve away from unnecessary heat such as the exhaust.

When you order the valve, like mentioned, get it with the mounting holes. I had to drill and tap mine and that is really hard aluminum. Also when you order it be sure and use the discount code like we've mentioned in other threads.

The stock steel tube going around the end of the shroud on a T-1 can be easily duplicated using 1/4" brake line fron a FLAPS. And inspite of not understanding G.S Scott's report of hose failure I still think the 1/4" Gates Barracade is probably the best bet.



Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

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ewdb92
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PostPosted: Fri Aug 23, 2013 10:39 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Here are a few pics of my installation. I made a bracket for the bolt just in front of the tank outlet and secured the valve with a 1-1/4" electrical conduit clamp. It's been perfect for over 1000 miles now. For those with the eye for detail, I did install hose clamps after the third photo was taken. Might replace the short hose from tank to valve with a metal line at some point.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

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Jeff Geisen
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PostPosted: Fri Aug 23, 2013 10:48 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

... with my luck the bus theif would winch mine up onto a roll off tow truck.
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PostPosted: Fri Aug 23, 2013 2:01 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Jeff Geisen wrote:
... with my luck the bus theif would winch mine up onto a roll off tow truck.


I think it's more about fire prevention than theft, but both uses are handy.
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ewdb92
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PostPosted: Fri Aug 23, 2013 2:24 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

asiab3 wrote:
Jeff Geisen wrote:
... with my luck the bus theif would winch mine up onto a roll off tow truck.


I think it's more about fire prevention than theft, but both uses are handy.


x2 If a thief wants buses bad enough, they'll figure out how to get them suppose.
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Desertbusman
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PostPosted: Wed May 21, 2014 4:29 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Here is the solenoid valve install that I had ended up with.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

There were a lot of otter issues I wanted to deal with at the time so that's why my install is more complex. http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=578216&highlight=shutoff+valve
And then there are various ways to wire it up and control it.
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PostPosted: Thu May 22, 2014 12:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Desertbusman wrote:
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.



THAT is a high and tight install. Very nice.

M
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Desertbusman
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PostPosted: Thu May 22, 2014 3:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks M.

I'm not thrilled with the filter. I miss the $3 plastic throwaways. You can replace them once in a while whether they need it or not.
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JasonBaker
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 19, 2015 5:34 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

How is the valve holding up? I was going to order from the link, but it tells me to call a distributor for qty between 1-10
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ewdb92
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 19, 2015 5:53 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

JasonBaker wrote:
How is the valve holding up? I was going to order from the link, but it tells me to call a distributor for qty between 1-10


Been just about 2 years for mine and it's holding up just fine, not a single issue. Yes, you have to order small quantities from a distributor. You can get that info from the website or by calling the number on the site iircc. I can take a look at my paperwork when I get home to see where I got mine if you need the info, but different distributors service different regions.
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JasonBaker
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 19, 2015 6:20 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

ewdb92 wrote:
JasonBaker wrote:
How is the valve holding up? I was going to order from the link, but it tells me to call a distributor for qty between 1-10


Been just about 2 years for mine and it's holding up just fine, not a single issue. Yes, you have to order small quantities from a distributor. You can get that info from the website or by calling the number on the site iircc. I can take a look at my paperwork when I get home to see where I got mine if you need the info, but different distributors service different regions.


Thanks for the reply. I found it on Amazon for 39.99,
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00EP1SEX0/ref=ox...DS5UJXKB7P
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