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First timer with a build that doesnt run yet
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TSFR
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PostPosted: Sun May 19, 2013 5:52 pm    Post subject: First timer with a build that doesnt run yet Reply with quote

Hello everyone, I'm Jeff and I have just taken delivery of this 1968 VW Dune Buggy. I knew it wasnt running when I got it and figured at worst case we would just rebuild the motor. I won it off eBay of all places LOL!

Here it is, although I'm not really sure what it is. I looked on the registry but couldnt find a complete match.
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I do know that under the flat black is purple and under that is the (I think) the factory red flake.

Well, the motor does in fact, not run. Sad In fact it will not even turn over. Once I got the rear bar dropped out of the way I tried again and was only able to tighten the bolt Rolling Eyes
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The motor is/was a 1835 GEX? block pushed out to 1904 with a Weber 38mm progressive carb (thats what I measured) with electric fuel pump and a regular distributer so I guess I dont have to worry about points.
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Are there supposed to be this many jumper wires? Is this normal for old VW's or am I just expecting too much?
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The wiring is kindof a mess too....Is it a bad sign when wires from sides of the battery are red? LOL Either way, I think I can clean it up a little bit.

It has sat for about 5 months and seems pretty locked up. I pulled all the spark plugs and none of them were rusted or anything so....Now I'm gonna start reading up on the motor to get ready for a rebuild I guess. I'm going to try some lube in the jug as a last ditch effort as I've read on here. I'll let y'all know how that works out.

Any suggests or comments are welcome.

Thanks,
Jeff
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bowtiebug
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PostPosted: Sun May 19, 2013 5:57 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

good looking buggy .

It appears from the photo of the fan shroud that the heater outlets are NOT plugged off ( is that the case ? ) if so that explaines whay it wont turn , most likely over heated and siezed up ..
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TSFR
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PostPosted: Sun May 19, 2013 6:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

bowtiebug wrote:
good looking buggy .

It appears from the photo of the fan shroud that the heater outlets are NOT plugged off ( is that the case ? ) if so that explaines whay it wont turn , most likely over heated and siezed up ..


Thanks! Its the style I was looking for.

What you see is exactly how I received it. The PO had the motor built under scandel so it wouldnt surprise me. If the outlet is plugged how does it get air flow? or is it not supposed to? If its siezed, whats my next step?
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bowtiebug
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PostPosted: Sun May 19, 2013 6:08 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

the two holes pointing out of the fan shroud just above each intake , they are for heater connections and in your case should be plugged off so air is forced over cylinders instead of wasted away ,

if it is seized you will most likely need new Pistons and cylinders .
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TSFR
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PostPosted: Sun May 19, 2013 6:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

What do you plug the hole with? Is the GEX block (is that even right?) still a good starting point? Is there a recommended place to look for parts?

Thanks for all the help!
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bowtiebug
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PostPosted: Sun May 19, 2013 6:25 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

i'm not sure of the size but you can get freeze plugs and install them in the holes with clamps or tack weld them in .

GEX is a rebuilder of engines .
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Wolfgangdieter
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PostPosted: Sun May 19, 2013 6:30 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Remove plugs and put some Mystery oil in each cylinder. Let it sit a few days then try to turn it over. Often works to loosen frozen rings up.
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manxdavid
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PostPosted: Mon May 20, 2013 1:24 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

If you get it running the first thing you want to do is to change the fuel hoses, they look plastic and nasty! That fuel filter isn't in the best of places either.

The carb looks like a 32/36 dual progressive Weber.
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TSFR
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PostPosted: Mon May 20, 2013 1:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

manxdavid wrote:
The carb looks like a 32/36 dual progressive Weber.


I cant find weber on it anywhere...I will snap a picture after work, but both barrels look the same and I measured the inside of them both at 38mm inside to inside. they both look to be the same size, maybe I measured the wrong way.

What kind of tubing should I look at?

Thanks for the advice everyone, I will be needing lots of it. Right now I'm reading the dune buggy handbook that I managed to find at the library.
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manxdavid
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PostPosted: Mon May 20, 2013 2:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Have a look on top of the float chamber, you may need to remover the airfilter.

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jspbtown
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PostPosted: Mon May 20, 2013 3:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Read about GEX engines in the Buyer/Seller feedback section.
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Dale M.
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PostPosted: Mon May 20, 2013 5:46 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

GEX or not first thing is to see if you can unstick it.... IF not open it up.... Unless inside it total disaster, you probable can salvage most of it....

Dale
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TSFR
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PostPosted: Mon May 20, 2013 5:50 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

here is the carb...they look the same unless I'm looking at it wrong.
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TSFR
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PostPosted: Mon May 20, 2013 6:03 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

and the Mystery oil has been added. Guess now its a waiting game
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TSFR
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PostPosted: Mon May 20, 2013 6:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Shocked So I see the GEX is an upstanding christian company with outstanding morals and amazing customer service.... Rolling Eyes
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Dale M.
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PostPosted: Mon May 20, 2013 7:52 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

TSFR wrote:
here is the carb...they look the same unless I'm looking at it wrong.
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NO... They are not the same.... The devil is in the details... Ignore the fact it has 2 square ventures and look at other details...

Pull air cleaner plate off and see if there is any name under it...

Dale
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TSFR
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PostPosted: Tue May 21, 2013 7:52 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Not sure what it is, but it does appear to be progressive and have an electric choke.
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On the bowls it says 26 and 27
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Any ideas?


Last edited by TSFR on Tue May 21, 2013 7:59 am; edited 1 time in total
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TSFR
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PostPosted: Tue May 21, 2013 7:58 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Also is the bottom number on the block a casting number? I'm not even sure what it is anymore...

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After reading all the reviews, even if the mystery oil works I'm going to pull the motor and do a complete rebuild anyway just to see/know what I have and whats going on. If those are not case numbers, when I find them should be 123A and 123B or 123 and 124? Just trying to find a path to follow. Thanks again for all the help.

My end game is to have something reliable which on occasion will pull up the front end. Cool
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Dale M.
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PostPosted: Tue May 21, 2013 4:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The "AB" number on case makes it a universal replacement case, 66-79, 1600cc, could be from Mexico, Brazil or Germany...

After GEX had a hand in it, no telling what is now...

Dale
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andk5591 Premium Member
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PostPosted: Tue May 21, 2013 6:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

OK - lets back up a sec - Motor wont turn over means what? You turn that key and nothing happens or it cranks and doesnt start? Big difference, If it doesnt crank. - first make sure that your have power to the starter. Now - look at the starter a little closer. I am assuming that you have a good battery and the cables are connected.

You will see a big heavy wire held on with a nut and a small wire that is a slip on connection. Make sure the car if not in gear and you should block the wheels. Take a screwdriver and jump across the big and small terminals. If it cranks, then you have an issue with the wiring or ignition switch.

Post where you are with things and then we can go from there. Be clear in your descriptions.
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