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Any test for I4 low end failure?
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Californio
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PostPosted: Thu May 23, 2013 10:53 am    Post subject: Any test for I4 low end failure? Reply with quote

Here's what's going on. I have to take a long trip in a couple of months, 5K miles +, with my Tiico powered Vanagon. Last year I lost an engine--it was making a kind of clicking noise, got worse, finally threw a rod on the freeway. I replaced the block with a used and have been driving it since. But now it is making a similar noise. Ominous.

I talked to the Tiico gurus at FAS and am convinced that s new ECU and related parts will help this engine out (by reducing heat, running richer, etc.) and am ready to buy their parts.

The question I have is: how can I determine before the fact whether the internal parts of the engine are showing so much wear that it's still going to grenade on me?

I was told that installing an oil pressure gauge would tell me the state of the connecting rod/crank bushings, etc., but is there any other diagnostic I can do to figure out what shape the engine internals are in?

Compression is pretty good at 150-160 per cylinder.
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danfromsyr
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PostPosted: Thu May 23, 2013 12:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

was your clinking noise pre-detonation?

as for throwing a rod, a oil pressure gauge is a good way to monitor the normal health of your motor. it'll show when the oil thins from breaking down even before the ~3000mi change interval.

for the most part the VW I4s have a very robust bottom end. and failure is usually from preventable maintenence or owner interaction.

my last I4 had excessive blow by and would puff out a huge black cloud on downshifts when struggling up major hills.
still I took it across the Berkshires before I swapped it for another randomly used I4
I run 1.8l digifant engines fwiw
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Californio
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PostPosted: Thu May 23, 2013 12:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

That's the thing, it's hard to tell what it is. Could be loose tin someplace (that's what Peter at Van Cafe thought it was when he drove it) or it could be internal. These engines have knock sensors that retard the ignition timing on pre-detonation, so I don't think it's that.

Anyway, other than oil pressure and compression test, anything that could help determine if the internals are good? I can't think of anything but maybe there is some trick?
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Jake de Villiers
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PostPosted: Thu May 23, 2013 12:46 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Californio wrote:
I can't think of anything but maybe there is some trick?


There are no tricks in auto mechanics - this isn't a video game with 'cheat codes'! Wink

Worn wrist pin bushings will rattle when you take the cylinder pressure off them but if Peter drove it and didn't hear anything ominous, that's a pretty good sign.

If the oil pressure checks out both cold and hot, its up to the driving style to keep it going. Be sure that you don't lug the engine - high revs are better than low.

If you want a guarantee, you'll need to have a good shop rebuild the engine for you - its the only way to *know* what you've got.

Good luck!
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r39o
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PostPosted: Thu May 23, 2013 1:12 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Pull the pan and look?

Leak down will tell about upper end.

Oil pressure dips under acceleration indicate worn bearings.

Yes, no tricks.

The lower end of the I4 is quite robust.

I read about the Tiico ECU issues and you NEED the later stuff that FAS has.

Or the early 90s Digifant A2 setup, but you have a Tiico, so it is easiest to stay with what FAS has and recommends.
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Robw_z
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PostPosted: Thu May 23, 2013 1:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

If you really wanna know just pull the pan and look. Not as involved as you may think, though to be honest I've only pulled pans from VW I4's when they were in their native vehicles. You can remove and inspect the rod bearings, even throw new ones on. You would have to re-torque and possibly replace the rod bolts as well.

-Rob
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Vango Conversions
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PostPosted: Thu May 23, 2013 1:50 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Since you've had a failure before, install an oil pressure gauge for sure.

It wouldn't be a TON of work to drop the pan and inspect the bearings, but it would take some time. Synthetic oil might help a little too.
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hans j
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PostPosted: Thu May 23, 2013 3:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I went through two engines in my rabbit before finally changing the intermediate shaft bearings. Rod #1 bearing failure each time Sad
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IdahoDoug
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PostPosted: Thu May 23, 2013 10:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

To me, one of the most cost effective and accurate ways of getting a handle on the bearing condition (what you're essentially asking about) is to send an oil sample in to Blackstone Labs. I have no doubt your engine is really well represented in their huge data base. Just clarify the year and vehicle it came from (or just pick a vehicle/year you know this exact engine is used in) in the explanation section so they'll know that and be able to accurately compare for you.

If your main bearings are loose/worn then their analysis will know because slack bearings produce more wear from the metals (loose means micro banging and continued metal removing) in these areas that will show up in the oil. This service is about $25 and I have used them for decades to keep track of my engines. Warning, it's addictive. They know what metals in your engine are where and are very reputable.

DougM
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