SSLLLOOOOOOWWWWW Gas guage

[AZ_Ron]

Hey guys...back with another question... My GF ran out of gas on saturday morning. The guage read empty, but I'd put 5 bucks in it on the way home Wednesday, figuring that would get me home, and her around for a couple of days. Anyhow, After she ran out, I filled the tank, and the guage never moved...it was buried down below empty, all the way at the left of the guage. Today I took her out on a road trip for a couple of hours...drover about 60-80 miles, and noticed the guage up in the RED... now, it's almost up to a 1/2 tank. It goes down if you hang a hard corner, then slowly comes back up. Since she'd been sitting for 3 years, I'm wondering if either the guage sender in the tank, or the gauge itself is gummed up, or what?!?! Anyone have any insight??

Thanks again!!

[Criswell]

mine moves pretty slow too. i just assumed it was normal . Also, if i make a sharp left, the gas comes back up the fill tube and leaks out a little at the fill cap . I tried replacing the cap, but no dice, still does it ... just thought id put my 2 cents in ...
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Mike
78 Westy 2.0 Hydraulic Lifter

[Steamboatsig]

Mine shows full when I fill her up. The needle drops as it should until around 3/4 of a tank. Then it just falls to below the red. And stays there until I fill her up again.

So now, if the bus has been sitting for awhile I always have to fill her up because I forget when the last time I did. I tried using the odometer to guage my miles, but that stopped working also.

Conrad
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1977 Sage Green California Westy

[ratwell]

When everything is working properly, the gas gauge needs goes from R to 1/1 on a full tank in few seconds. If it takes longer something has failed and it gets worse over time. Most likely it's the sender or something the voltage vibrator behind the gas gauge. See these instructions for diagnosis the faulty part. I figured out my voltage vibrator was dead and I put in a junkyard spare and now it works perfectly.
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'78 Westfalia CDN
'76 Doublecab
Read the Baywindow FAQ

[Bottomend]

Heres a tip... my bus has a hole cut in the deck above the gas tank. the sender can easily be inspected and replaced. I've noticed if I ROTATE the sender in the opening (of the gas tank) it changes the way the gauge reads the tank level. Quicker /slower ect. It's an easy adjustment for me because I've got an opening.

[Island Bwoy 420]

Ya but if I dont have a hole cut in my bus, how do I change the fuel sender? Going to need to do this anyway.
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4-2-0 Theres no time to be taking your time so spark it up!

[vwcampin]

If you do not have a hole already cut and do not want to hack up your bus, then you would have to pull your engine and then remove the plate that covers the tank and then remove tank to get access to sender. I have heard of people pulling the tank with the motor still in by removing the carbs and such, but it sounds like a pain in a$$.

[Bottomend]

Heres my opinion. I have taken my engine out. I have put my engine back in.
I have taken my gas tank out. I have put my gas tank back in. I haven't taken the gas tank out while the engine was still in the bus. I bet Skeptic could give you some good advice on whether or not this is REALLY possible.

I had a fuel guage that was reading all weird about a month after I bought my bus. I took it to a shop who said they would cut a hole above the sending unit.
They did a crappy job. I was really mad. First of all they charged me a handfull of $$$ for a job that took them .... 5 minutes. and second( as I just mentioned) it looked like crap. After seeing what they did I realized I could've done a much better job. So can you... If you choose. I found a template on the web that shows you exactly where to cut. Personally I think there should've been a hole there to begin with. Taking an engine out to change a simple part like the sender just seems kinda dumb. Ok Colin... attack me. I'm ready.

[nik]

I have a hole cut as well above the tank. I would rather have not had a hole cut, but I wasn't about to pay someone(before I started wrenchin on my own dubs) way more cash to remove the engine first.
If I had to do it again, I would skip cutting the hole and just pull the motor. Maybe even do some replacing of the seals and cleaning of the engine and it's bay while I am at it.
What year is your bus? I may have an extra gas gauge that I will give you for free(Just pay for shipping)so that you don't have to remove the engine to test the sender.
nik
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It ain't easy being cheesy
Analyze this, Biotch!
WTD: Early "Wrap Around" dash pad

[ratwell]

These are the VW instructions for cutting the hole. I recommend removing the tank if possible. The tank is heavy even without gasoline. Pulling it out with the engine if would be tough but possible.
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'78 Westfalia CDN
'76 Doublecab
Read the Baywindow FAQ

[loubell]

[u]Steamboatsig[/u]---THAT same thing happens on the bus I just bought last night. You just deal with it? is there some easy way to fix it? or is it just not worth it? let me know your experiences with it please...thanks

[jeremysmithatshawdotca]

Mine drops once it gets down below 3/4 of a tank, I don't even pay attentin. I just get gas when I reach every even 200 miles, it's easy to remeber, and it works. Of course I also have a jerry can locked to my luggage rack just in case! Jeremy