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brettsvw Samba Member
Joined: November 22, 2007 Posts: 2145 Location: Florida
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Posted: Fri Jun 07, 2013 3:54 pm Post subject: manx style buggy rebuild |
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Hi all,
My name is Brett and this is my first time posting in the fibberglass forums.
This manx style buggy is my third to own, but first to do a somewhat complete rebuild (not show quality but nice).
Donor for the rebuild is a very rusty 67 bug. Although I am not a fan of sending a VW to the scrapyard this bug looks way better in the pics than in person.
Here is TuxBug (script on windshield ) a manx style buggy. The color is black that is one of three resprays over a metal-flake gelcoat that looks to be original in a lighter color of blue.
The pan needs a lot of attention to get rid of rust along lower sides of tunnel.
after welding in pan halves, I cut 14.5 inches from tunnel staggering the welds with steps down sides of tunnel and moving the bottom cut under tunnel 14 inches forward for greater strength. I got the idea from lurking on here.
I lap welded the pan halves at the rear of pans welding top and bottom.
Pan ready for meadia blasting.
Last edited by brettsvw on Sat Jun 08, 2013 5:57 am; edited 1 time in total |
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bruces Samba Member
Joined: October 12, 2009 Posts: 221 Location: sudbury ontario
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Posted: Fri Jun 07, 2013 4:07 pm Post subject: |
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wood chip floor and jesus boots ? nice combo for welding . |
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brettsvw Samba Member
Joined: November 22, 2007 Posts: 2145 Location: Florida
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Posted: Fri Jun 07, 2013 4:22 pm Post subject: |
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I am editing here to add; Sandblasting has its drawbacks. One is that sand can and will get into places that can destroy things later. My way is not always the right way.
After duct taping everything I did not want sand getting into I media blasted complete front balljoint beam, complete transaxle, and pan.
I put down three coats (30min flash time between coats) of Direct To Metal Epoxy Primer Sealer after thoroughly wiping every inch down with wax and oil remover.
I did not want to paint trans, I did hand paint all nuts, studs, and washers.
Edit; Duct-Tape is not the answer all.
The duct-tape did a great job of keep sand out of the important places.
The front beam and trans were in good operating condition so I did not want to disassemble at this time. I will remove nosecone, axletubes, steeringbox, etc. to replace gaskets after paint.
Last edited by brettsvw on Sun Jun 16, 2013 5:24 am; edited 4 times in total |
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gr8cobbler Samba Member
Joined: May 04, 2006 Posts: 916 Location: Midlife Crisis, Midwest
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Posted: Fri Jun 07, 2013 5:38 pm Post subject: |
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Looking good, You've gotten a lot done. What's the plan? Street/Off Road? Cage? _________________ Gary
Being a cheap old fart is just a front for my actual lack of money. |
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Q-Dog Samba Member
Joined: April 05, 2010 Posts: 8686 Location: Sunset, Louisiana
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Posted: Fri Jun 07, 2013 6:10 pm Post subject: |
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Here's why you don't sandblast a transmission.
Sand can get past the gaskets no matter how careful you are. I would at least pull the side covers and the nose cone to see if any sand got into your transaxle.
I would also pull the arms out of the beam to inspect the bearings there, and pull the cover off the steering box. _________________ Brian
'69 Dune Buggy
'69 Beetle Convertible
'70 Beetle |
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BL3Manx Samba Member
Joined: August 29, 2006 Posts: 6767 Location: Northern California
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Posted: Fri Jun 07, 2013 8:00 pm Post subject: |
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Looks like the vent hole to the gearbox was left wide open.
The trailing arms on the front beam are supported by needle roller bearings too. |
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brettsvw Samba Member
Joined: November 22, 2007 Posts: 2145 Location: Florida
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Posted: Sat Jun 08, 2013 5:24 am Post subject: |
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gr8cobbler wrote: |
Looking good, You've gotten a lot done. What's the plan? Street/Off Road? Cage? |
The plans are to make it look close to stock to Cruz to the river, drive dirt roads, and pull to the beach.
10in wide smoothies in the rear and stock width smoothies in the front.
Last edited by brettsvw on Sun Jun 16, 2013 5:28 am; edited 1 time in total |
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brettsvw Samba Member
Joined: November 22, 2007 Posts: 2145 Location: Florida
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Posted: Sat Jun 08, 2013 5:55 am Post subject: |
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Q-Dog wrote: |
Sand can get past the gaskets no matter how careful you are. I would at least pull the side covers and the nose cone to see if any sand got into your transaxle.
I would also pull the arms out of the beam to inspect the bearings there, and pull the cover off the steering box. |
Thanks for the feedback. This is one good reason to post on these forums is for good advise and learn something new.
I should have discussed the bad sides of sandblasting everything complete.
The main reason for sandblasting whole was to save time and not have parts everywhere. Plans are to replace seals and gasket as I disassemble to reassemble. Finishing one item before moving to the next.
Much easier working on fresh and clean exterior. The benefits of a good epoxy primer sealer is its very tough surface and can handle the bumping and knocking.
The list:
Remove axle-tubes and rear brakes
Nose cone gasket
replace balljoints
steeringbox oil
torsion arm seals
brake lines hard and soft
rubber seals all around
I did replace nosecone gasket and the metal retainer gaskets for the axle-tubes after paint. I used a wood plug on the nosecone vent and blasting with the continuous pressure around 45lbs.
When I removed both axle-tubes one side was clean and the other had a small amount of sand that did not get past the retainer opening. I went overboard with the duct tape on the rubber boots. I am glad to see no sand in nosecone, I was worried about that.
The steering box was packed tightly with heavy grease before blasting .
Before paint I had beam upside down on saw horse with pan under it open steeringbox and cleaned out grease.
I did not tape ball-joints because those are getting replaced before I bleed brakes.
I will remove torsion-arms and check inside tubes when I replace balljoints. |
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scotth17 Samba Member
Joined: January 30, 2012 Posts: 335 Location: Bedford Texas
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Posted: Sat Jun 08, 2013 2:11 pm Post subject: |
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Looks good to me! |
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drumbum68 Samba Member
Joined: October 15, 2010 Posts: 566
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Posted: Sun Jun 09, 2013 6:43 am Post subject: |
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Nice Glitterbug! |
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Q-Dog Samba Member
Joined: April 05, 2010 Posts: 8686 Location: Sunset, Louisiana
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Posted: Sun Jun 09, 2013 6:56 am Post subject: |
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Nice job, and thanks for the clarifications. I only commented about the sadblasting because I would hate to see someone create some unknown problems that come back to bite them or leave them stranded later on. The work looks great so far!
I wish I had been able to strip mine down and build it from a bare pan. Maybe I will on the next one? _________________ Brian
'69 Dune Buggy
'69 Beetle Convertible
'70 Beetle |
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brettsvw Samba Member
Joined: November 22, 2007 Posts: 2145 Location: Florida
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Posted: Sun Jun 09, 2013 4:57 pm Post subject: |
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Went to work on shifter tube and found this.
Metal ring looks like a spaghetti noodle. Very noticeable gauge difference in both metal rings.
This is the bushing.
I will be painting again so decided to put down some seam sealer.
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brettsvw Samba Member
Joined: November 22, 2007 Posts: 2145 Location: Florida
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Posted: Sat Jun 15, 2013 9:52 am Post subject: |
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I welded in replacement shift rod support. I used the shifter bolts to hold in place.
Put down another layer epoxy primer to cover the seam sealer and to give the floor an extra coat.
Installed the shift rod before welding to make sure the length and alignment was good.
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BL3Manx Samba Member
Joined: August 29, 2006 Posts: 6767 Location: Northern California
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NINO1478 Samba Member
Joined: March 23, 2008 Posts: 30 Location: Bakersfield, Ca
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Posted: Sat Jun 15, 2013 11:53 am Post subject: |
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Nice work on the pan and shift rod support bracket.Really good job and keep the pics coming.also what kind of seam sealant is that u are using? |
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brettsvw Samba Member
Joined: November 22, 2007 Posts: 2145 Location: Florida
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Posted: Sat Jun 15, 2013 3:49 pm Post subject: |
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Thanks, I thought about ordering that to make it simplified. |
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brettsvw Samba Member
Joined: November 22, 2007 Posts: 2145 Location: Florida
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Posted: Sat Jun 15, 2013 3:54 pm Post subject: |
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NINO1478 wrote: |
Nice work on the pan and shift rod support bracket.Really good job and keep the pics coming.also what kind of seam sealant is that u are using? |
The seam sealer I used is a single part regular size caulk tube Norton 82750 Quick-Set Firm Seam Sealer.
Great to use on vertical surfaces.
Last edited by brettsvw on Wed Jun 26, 2013 4:53 pm; edited 1 time in total |
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brettsvw Samba Member
Joined: November 22, 2007 Posts: 2145 Location: Florida
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Posted: Wed Jun 26, 2013 4:50 pm Post subject: |
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Removed lights, wire and anything bolted to body.
side removed. I like the look of these better than the rough unfinished sides.
Original finish.
Plans now are to mock up body for steering column, headlight, fuel-tank, and rear deck bracing. |
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brettsvw Samba Member
Joined: November 22, 2007 Posts: 2145 Location: Florida
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Posted: Thu Jan 02, 2014 2:45 pm Post subject: |
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I picked up a set used Scat ProCar seats. I talked the guy into throwing them in on a deal we made on some VW parts I bought.
The seat bases were way to high to use them in the buggy.
Driverside base already cut down.
Base before cut down.
Front cut down to one hole left.
Back cut down to brace no holes left.
Drilled holes below rear brace for mounting bolts.
Cut seat base bolted on. A considerable difference.
I like the fit and feel with plenty of legroom. I am 6'1" now I need to mount windshield to see if my big head is low enough.
My last buggy had plastic seats that were very uncomfortable. For me these are an upgrade. If I like these in the end they will get recovered. |
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brettsvw Samba Member
Joined: November 22, 2007 Posts: 2145 Location: Florida
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Posted: Sat Jan 11, 2014 3:06 pm Post subject: |
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This is my first ever attempt to do my own body and paint work.
The body was warped from sitting on the ground for who knows how
many years. I had to cut to get it to lay down flat on the rails.
I also cut and extended the mud gaurd side thingy (not really a pod).
I am starting fiber glass repair and have a question on paint.
I started stripping found that there is original gelcoat,
bondo, red paint, filler primer, and black paint.
I will be using sealer primer (two part epoxy) and high end paint.
Should I keep stripping down to the gelcoat and start fresh or just to the bondo.?
When I get to the red paint it comes off easy. _________________ .
My 59 kombi build.
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=635003&highlight=
My buggy build.
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=558601&highlight=
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=289807
Last edited by brettsvw on Sun Jan 12, 2014 5:46 am; edited 1 time in total |
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