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manx style buggy rebuild
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brettsvw
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 07, 2013 3:54 pm    Post subject: manx style buggy rebuild Reply with quote

Hi all,
My name is Brett and this is my first time posting in the fibberglass forums.

This manx style buggy is my third to own, but first to do a somewhat complete rebuild (not show quality but nice).


Donor for the rebuild is a very rusty 67 bug. Although I am not a fan of sending a VW to the scrapyard this bug looks way better in the pics than in person.

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Here is TuxBug (script on windshield ) a manx style buggy. The color is black that is one of three resprays over a metal-flake gelcoat that looks to be original in a lighter color of blue.

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The pan needs a lot of attention to get rid of rust along lower sides of tunnel.

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after welding in pan halves, I cut 14.5 inches from tunnel staggering the welds with steps down sides of tunnel and moving the bottom cut under tunnel 14 inches forward for greater strength. I got the idea from lurking on here.

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I lap welded the pan halves at the rear of pans welding top and bottom.

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Pan ready for meadia blasting.

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Last edited by brettsvw on Sat Jun 08, 2013 5:57 am; edited 1 time in total
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bruces
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 07, 2013 4:07 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

wood chip floor and jesus boots ? nice combo for welding .
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brettsvw
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 07, 2013 4:22 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I am editing here to add; Sandblasting has its drawbacks. One is that sand can and will get into places that can destroy things later. My way is not always the right way.

After duct taping everything I did not want sand getting into I media blasted complete front balljoint beam, complete transaxle, and pan.

I put down three coats (30min flash time between coats) of Direct To Metal Epoxy Primer Sealer after thoroughly wiping every inch down with wax and oil remover.

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I did not want to paint trans, I did hand paint all nuts, studs, and washers.

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Edit; Duct-Tape is not the answer all.
The duct-tape did a great job of keep sand out of the important places.
The front beam and trans were in good operating condition so I did not want to disassemble at this time. I will remove nosecone, axletubes, steeringbox, etc. to replace gaskets after paint.



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Last edited by brettsvw on Sun Jun 16, 2013 5:24 am; edited 4 times in total
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gr8cobbler
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 07, 2013 5:38 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Looking good, You've gotten a lot done. What's the plan? Street/Off Road? Cage?
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Q-Dog
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 07, 2013 6:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Here's why you don't sandblast a transmission.
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Sand can get past the gaskets no matter how careful you are. I would at least pull the side covers and the nose cone to see if any sand got into your transaxle.

I would also pull the arms out of the beam to inspect the bearings there, and pull the cover off the steering box.
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BL3Manx
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 07, 2013 8:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Looks like the vent hole to the gearbox was left wide open.

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The trailing arms on the front beam are supported by needle roller bearings too.
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brettsvw
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PostPosted: Sat Jun 08, 2013 5:24 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

gr8cobbler wrote:
Looking good, You've gotten a lot done. What's the plan? Street/Off Road? Cage?


The plans are to make it look close to stock to Cruz to the river, drive dirt roads, and pull to the beach.

10in wide smoothies in the rear and stock width smoothies in the front.


Last edited by brettsvw on Sun Jun 16, 2013 5:28 am; edited 1 time in total
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brettsvw
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PostPosted: Sat Jun 08, 2013 5:55 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Q-Dog wrote:

Sand can get past the gaskets no matter how careful you are. I would at least pull the side covers and the nose cone to see if any sand got into your transaxle.

I would also pull the arms out of the beam to inspect the bearings there, and pull the cover off the steering box.


Thanks for the feedback. This is one good reason to post on these forums is for good advise and learn something new.

I should have discussed the bad sides of sandblasting everything complete.

The main reason for sandblasting whole was to save time and not have parts everywhere. Plans are to replace seals and gasket as I disassemble to reassemble. Finishing one item before moving to the next.

Much easier working on fresh and clean exterior. The benefits of a good epoxy primer sealer is its very tough surface and can handle the bumping and knocking.

The list:
Remove axle-tubes and rear brakes
Nose cone gasket
replace balljoints
steeringbox oil
torsion arm seals
brake lines hard and soft
rubber seals all around


I did replace nosecone gasket and the metal retainer gaskets for the axle-tubes after paint. I used a wood plug on the nosecone vent and blasting with the continuous pressure around 45lbs.

When I removed both axle-tubes one side was clean and the other had a small amount of sand that did not get past the retainer opening. I went overboard with the duct tape on the rubber boots. I am glad to see no sand in nosecone, I was worried about that.

The steering box was packed tightly with heavy grease before blasting .
Before paint I had beam upside down on saw horse with pan under it open steeringbox and cleaned out grease.

I did not tape ball-joints because those are getting replaced before I bleed brakes.
I will remove torsion-arms and check inside tubes when I replace balljoints.
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scotth17
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PostPosted: Sat Jun 08, 2013 2:11 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Looks good to me!
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drumbum68
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PostPosted: Sun Jun 09, 2013 6:43 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nice Glitterbug!
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Q-Dog
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PostPosted: Sun Jun 09, 2013 6:56 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nice job, and thanks for the clarifications. I only commented about the sadblasting because I would hate to see someone create some unknown problems that come back to bite them or leave them stranded later on. The work looks great so far!

I wish I had been able to strip mine down and build it from a bare pan. Maybe I will on the next one?
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brettsvw
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PostPosted: Sun Jun 09, 2013 4:57 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Went to work on shifter tube and found this.

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Metal ring looks like a spaghetti noodle. Very noticeable gauge difference in both metal rings.

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This is the bushing.

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I will be painting again so decided to put down some seam sealer.

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brettsvw
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PostPosted: Sat Jun 15, 2013 9:52 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I welded in replacement shift rod support. I used the shifter bolts to hold in place.

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Put down another layer epoxy primer to cover the seam sealer and to give the floor an extra coat.

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Installed the shift rod before welding to make sure the length and alignment was good.

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BL3Manx
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PostPosted: Sat Jun 15, 2013 10:18 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Threaded adjustable shift rod end simplifies alignment and length issues and allows precise adjustment


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http://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/detail.php?id=722608
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NINO1478
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PostPosted: Sat Jun 15, 2013 11:53 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nice work on the pan and shift rod support bracket.Really good job and keep the pics coming.also what kind of seam sealant is that u are using?
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brettsvw
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PostPosted: Sat Jun 15, 2013 3:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

BL3Manx wrote:
Threaded adjustable shift rod end simplifies alignment and length issues and allows precise adjustment


http://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/detail.php?id=722608


Thanks, I thought about ordering that to make it simplified.
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brettsvw
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PostPosted: Sat Jun 15, 2013 3:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

NINO1478 wrote:
Nice work on the pan and shift rod support bracket.Really good job and keep the pics coming.also what kind of seam sealant is that u are using?


The seam sealer I used is a single part regular size caulk tube Norton 82750 Quick-Set Firm Seam Sealer.

Great to use on vertical surfaces.


Last edited by brettsvw on Wed Jun 26, 2013 4:53 pm; edited 1 time in total
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brettsvw
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PostPosted: Wed Jun 26, 2013 4:50 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Removed lights, wire and anything bolted to body.

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side removed. I like the look of these better than the rough unfinished sides.

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Original finish.

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Plans now are to mock up body for steering column, headlight, fuel-tank, and rear deck bracing.
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brettsvw
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 02, 2014 2:45 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I picked up a set used Scat ProCar seats. I talked the guy into throwing them in on a deal we made on some VW parts I bought.

The seat bases were way to high to use them in the buggy.

Driverside base already cut down.

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Base before cut down.

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Front cut down to one hole left.

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Back cut down to brace no holes left.

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Drilled holes below rear brace for mounting bolts.

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Cut seat base bolted on. A considerable difference.

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I like the fit and feel with plenty of legroom. I am 6'1" now I need to mount windshield to see if my big head is low enough.

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My last buggy had plastic seats that were very uncomfortable. For me these are an upgrade. If I like these in the end they will get recovered.
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brettsvw
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 11, 2014 3:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

This is my first ever attempt to do my own body and paint work.

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The body was warped from sitting on the ground for who knows how
many years. I had to cut to get it to lay down flat on the rails.
I also cut and extended the mud gaurd side thingy (not really a pod).

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I am starting fiber glass repair and have a question on paint.
I started stripping found that there is original gelcoat,
bondo, red paint, filler primer, and black paint.
I will be using sealer primer (two part epoxy) and high end paint.

Should I keep stripping down to the gelcoat and start fresh or just to the bondo.?

When I get to the red paint it comes off easy.
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My 59 kombi build.
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=635003&highlight=

My buggy build.
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=558601&highlight=

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=289807


Last edited by brettsvw on Sun Jan 12, 2014 5:46 am; edited 1 time in total
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