1.9 TDI Tin top van from INDIA

[narendra.vw]

[narendra.vw]

Rerouting Inlet air flow.

After covering many miles on the Highway, my family could feel the resonance of K &N filter.
Time had come for me to do something & give my family a comfortable Journey.

Hunt for an enclosed Air filter started. Many makes & shapes came to my mind, some had a serous space issue. Minimum plumbing was my main focus. Apollo was one among my maybe list. Apollo was dropped due to non deciding reviews & cost factor.

Engine Bay, I always wanted the Bay to look more like a factory fit. So, shifting of any fittings was out of question.
Sometimes we go all-out in search of what we want & finally end up finding them at Home. It happened to me exactly that. I realized my TD air filter complete assembly was still with me which also had a bit of space issue. “Searching for the Ghee(clarified butter) while having Butter right in our palm” .

Time’s when ALH was new to me, any Mod on the engine was a no, no to me. Later, experiencing few of it’s limit gave me the courage to modify the inlet manifold with respect to space for the TD air filter Box.

Did some mental Design & went ahead with the Mod.

The EGR unit & the Inlet manifold’s long neck was coming in the way of the TD filter box’s OE fitting position.
The only way to accommodate was to shorten & re position the neck of the Inlet. This needed careful cutting, realigning & welding the neck. The only let go part in this Mod was EGR. EGR metal pipe doesn’t’ match it‘s OE position.

Visuals of parts used,
TD air filter Box & it’s clamps, the plastic cup where the TD air filter sits in, TD hose, TD Turbo connecting plastic pipe, Asbestos rope, Aluminum foil, MAF(new) along with it’s housing(customized flange) & lastly, the modified Inlet manifold.

The manifold neck is slightly angled upward to overcome the engine tilt angle.

The parts in the picture should take care of my needs.

[Zeitgeist 13]

Do you have a way to measure the sound volume in decibels before and after your intake mod?
_________________
Casey--

'89 Bluestar ALH w/12mm Waldo pump, PP764 and GT2052
'01 Weekender --> full camper
y u rune klassik?

[narendra.vw]

[narendra.vw]

Work completion details,

Vacuum actuators,
All the vacuum actuator firewall fittings were reshuffled to gain more space for the air filter Box.

AFB (Air Filter Box) fitting details
--The AFB was winded with asbestos rope & wrapped it with a aluminum foil. This should reduce the sucking sound & restrict engine heat.
--I have used an Indian Tube type Air filter(OE fitting for a Indian 4*4, 2.2 L TD engine).
The AF has the same inner dia, outer dia & 4 mm longer then of JX filter. A big relief of not needing to Import a regular consumable part.J
--The TD’s AFB clamps were slightly re positioned to accommodate MAF unit to the box. Among the two clamps one end has a clamp with a bolt & a nut while other end is Velcro strapped(faster air filter removal from the AFB).
--The MAF was fitted to the Custom flange housing.
--The TD bend rubber hose & the TD plastic pipe complete the connection between MAF & the Turbo inlet.
--The AFB inlet Duct points towards the D pillar that makes the Snorkel fitting much easier.
Parts used for the Snorkel, Partly PVC pipe & partly aluminum flexible pipe.

Basic Info:- The minimum volume space needed for the TD Air filter Box, Dia--7” & length-- 14”.

Dressing up the AFB. Details in sequence.

In the sequence(7), the air filter holding rod was welded in consideration of free air flow to the MAF sensor.

Did my level best to make the AFB user friendly & similar to OE fitting.

On board Dash-cam Video of my resent Highway Drive(k & n filter was still in use). The median “black & white” stripe, makes a stand still illusion.


Link

[narendra.vw]

Modifying the EGR unit,
First, I disconnected the EGR’s inlet & exhaust outlet pipe. Later, to gain more gap between the Turbo inlet plastic pipe & the van’s chassis I had to completely grind off the EGR diaphragm valve housing( A detailed photo in the end). Among the two holes of EGR, one was sealed with a dummy cap & the other hole was closed with a stud. The stud was used for clamping inlet plastic hose.
Next, the exhaust manifold’s EGR outlet was sealed with a dummy plate( How I wished I knew the EGR disconnection in the initial stage of engine mounting, where I could have avoided a ugly hole on the TD exhaust manifold for the EGR feed).
Here, I have retained Anti shutter mechanism.

Making of a Snorkel,
The main part was picked up from a Indian mini Truck’s snorkel. Along with it, I made use of parts from my old k&n left over accessories bin. All the connecting pipes are air tight press fit, no clamping.

Visuals of removed EGR unit & Snorkel setup Demo.

The air sucking capacity of the Rectangle pipe is similar to 3.25” ID Round pipe.

Some more Video of my Van’s drive.

Link

[Yukon Syncro]

Thanks for the scenic drive, beautiful country.
_________________
1987 1.6 TD (JX) 1.9 TD (AAZ) Syncro Transporter Tintop with front and back lockers - Escorial Green. Got a North American High Top buried in snow waiting for a spring, summer when-oh-when-lord install.

[Waldi]

I am getting a heart attace watching this.
Thanks "god" no elephants on the road

[narendra.vw]

Delete

[narendra.vw]

[narendra.vw]

Partly finial Details,

Modified Inlet manifold fitting,
The most important thing was to get the desired modified manifold by correct neck cutting, perfect neck positioning & a quality Co2 welding [I missed out with this co2 welding guy while the crankcase(oil pan) was being modified].
Manifold fitted perfectly as planned. No abstraction of any part. The IC outlet Duct lined up perfectly with the inlet manifold Duct(the IC comes from the TDI Donor). An additional reducer 2.5” to 2.0” hose & a 2” aluminum connecter completed IC to manifold inlet plumbing work.

Air filter Info, the air sucking surface area is app 200 + sq inch.

AFB mounting Brackets,
Velcro strap mounting side, made use of OE plastic bracket & the other side, just the OE clamp which was bolted to the fire wall having a flat at the back to provide strength to the fire wall..
Due to the firewall shape, the second plastic bracket fitting is not possible(plastic bracket visuals in the very first ‘parts used’ picture).

Minor changes in AFB.
The rod used for clamping the air filter was removed.
Since, the air filter I’m using is longer than the TD air filter, the lid of AFB once locked it’s rubber cap presses & holds the air filter firmly. The MAF along with TD air filter’s plastic cup make sure the air filter sits firmly on the other side. Now the air filter can be removed without needing a tool.

Air filter, AFB mounting Bracket, Simplified routing of Vacuum hose & AFB trial fitting Visual

OE chassis holes came in use to route the hoses. Hidden hoses eliminates the need of securing them + protect them from heat.

I’m nearing to, what I wanted to archive

[Osku]

Hi there I'm From Finland and I'm also doing an ALH Conversion on My syncro T3, I realized that you have done the job like me turning the engien 50 degree to the side. I have resolved most of the same things as you and much in a similar fasion. That said I have yet to resolve some issues, and was wondering if could help me on theese issues.

How is your water circulation built and did it work as ecpected.

1. I have some concern on should I Use the JX engines Extra Water pump
or not

2. And how is it wisest to conect the hoses

3. Did you have any problem with the water intake pointing almost on
the level of the expansion tank, e.g. bleeding problems, I concidered
making an shorter intake tube but could not say would this be
neccecary. I did drop my engine with custom mounts with 20mm so I
did not need the scoop on the engine lid, this also makes sure that if
you got it working then I should be 20 mm (slightly less than an inch)
safer. So did you have any problems?

Here you can see my solutions: http://www.tolkkifoorumi.com/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=12&t=2978&start=60
The language makes it most likely a bit hard to understand but the pictures speak for them self.
The car is still under construction and the engine was just test fitted at this stage so that I would see if all the components fit. It will still be disassambled and engine bay will be re-painted etc.

[narendra.vw]

Mine had a factory fit JX engine with a 5 speed. This made my work much, much easier.
Engine mounting,
The carrier bars, Engine mounting points, Brackets(right is the only one customized), Mounts & Gearbox mount all are in OE setup.
If you stick to the above setup with a 50* tilt, the IC pump & oil filter housing projects ½” above the floor.
Since, your’s is a Syncro(lucky you), lowing the engine unit you may struggle to get the right angle with the Propeller shaft. You also loose in drive shaft movement radius. From my point of view, lid hump is a must for a ALH 50* tilt.

Regarding cooling system, I‘ll answer all the three put together.

All most all the hoses I have used are from JX engine & few are from ALH Donor. Hose routing was done keeping JX engine cooling system in mind. The extra OE pump works in the same way as was with the JX engine.
Regarding coolant bleeding, first I remove the air lock from the radiator by loosing the brass bolt on the radiator(a must if you are using a thermostat). Once done, start the engine & see to that all the air bubbles are removed from the pressure tank. Fill the coolant to max level & close the cap.
I don’t have reserve tank. I don’t feel I need one.

Coolant adding is around 200 ml once in three months.

My Van’s cooling pics repeat. You can see all the JX engine hoses being used.

Edit: Good & clean work on the Crankcase Mod. Good luck on your project.

[Osku]

Thank you for your reply. Its realy nice work you have done on that one.

I had no problem geting the right angle for the prop or drive shafts, I did use the orginal Syncro diesel gearbox and that is almost identical with the 5 speed your using except that it has the propshaft and different front mount.
I did puonder about if I should also lower the gearbox but the tilt was so small that I did not.
I could also have used the standard engine mount on left side but I prefered to use the standard intake and turbo from the ALH so I opted for a custom bracket. as both the brackets where custom any way I could in tha same breath make them 20mm lower wich worked nice. I Used engine flange for a jig and just put 20 mm of shim on both brackets before welding. I used the JX with orginal mounts as the referense point for my JIG. Then moved the left side with 145mm back wards thus clearing the turbo "barely". I also copied the exhaust brcket from the JX but let the exhaust stay 20mm higher as in orginal place in reference to the body of the car. The oil pan was made with both the Normal and riced exchasut points that is why ther is two set of holes on the bracket. I did this just in case I would prefere to lift the engin to orginal position for some reason.
The syncro is an good 2-3" higher than an normal van and the drive shafts are just fine with that too, so I do not think that is an issue. the prop has also propjonts to allowe the small tilt, and so it did too when I tested the gearbox in.
So I did not exactly folow your conclusion that the engine lid needed the hump?
The only drawback is that the ground clearance drops with 20mm and that is not the biggest issue for a syncro unless you realy want to go offroad and even then it has still planty clearance. But I can see it being an issue if your building an lowrider.
It is ofcourse true that I did throw both the aircon and servo pump over my shoulder when I built it as I wanted it to have as few breaking items as posible for reliability. Finland is not that warm and I'm strong enaugh . Besides I have 3 of these syncros and never had neither the aircon nor the servo and never felt the need for either. I Usually use my syncro for the winter half of the year and have other cars with less ground clearance for the sommer. Newer the less I think looking at your top picture it should be possible to fit both the aircon and servo as you have them and still drop the engine.

I have been pounding on that water pump for a while as my resoning was this it could either be seen as an vheicle specific or engine specific. All JX engines had one none of the ALH engines had one, all the T3(Vanagons) Turbo Had one on the otherhand the only turbos where the JX. I think also that the safe way is to use the extra waterpump, it just needs more sensors in the engine wich I was wondering is it is nececery. The orginal tought with this waterpump is to after cool the engine even when the the car is shut down. And I have had some issues with the sensor breaking and my battery runing flat from this water pump. The other thing is that the factory never got the cylinder head on the JX reliable and this was one atempt to cure that. It is commonly known that the jx will be more prone to crack the head without this pump. The question is does this aplie to the ALH engine as the factory never felt the need for such an pump on it.

I also was looking at the picture on the upper right where there is this TDI branch I was looking for something like that but my donor did not have such a piece wher did that come from and do you have an part number. This was one of the reson I also concidered that I would perhaps rather go with the ALH setup and just conect the hoses to the T3 radiator and heater. As I thought I would need to fabricate some of those branches.

By the way how is your tranny coping with the added torque, any problems?
Did you reinforce it some how?'
I do have the 228 clutch mod (ALH assembly WBX disc and modifyed flywheel) but am still punding on the gear mods, especially as I suspect that I have some wear on my tranny, and thus have to open it anyway.

Here you can see the diesel syncro tranny. Sadly enaugh I found some metalic oil in it after I had changed the seals and painted it.

http://www.tolkkifoorumi.com/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=3378

[narendra.vw]

Owning a Syncro is always special. I advise you to come up with a build Thread. You do get experienced advises, in particular for a Syncro.
Cooling system , yes since your’s is a cold country more concentration should be on coolant heating.
Please retain the coolant heater plugs(behind the head).

At present, I’m using 228 mm clutch with ALH flywheel & pressure plate. The TDI shaft is on it’s way( thanks to one of my Samba member friend). Once received the whole set will be of ALH.
I’m just Ok with gear ratio having 15” disc along with 205/70 profile tyre.
The only problem I had was, k&n filter’s sucking sound which I’m in the process of replacing it with a OE filter.
As for as your engine mounting, I’m sure you would have looked into from every angle & done the right work.
Some Info for you,
-In my next budget, I’m planning to replace present crown & pinion 4.83 with 4.57.
-The pump works only when ac is switched on.
-For the reference, mine has 9”(crankcase) ground clearance on no load condition.
-I’m not able to see the part no/- since the hose is covering it. More close-up of any, let me know.
-Wiring, TDI wiring used only for the engine & instrument cluster. Rest OE wiring remains the same.

Edit: the Gearbox looks sweet. great going.

[Osku]

You are going with the whole set from the ALH, did you try the clutch disk from a 2.1WBX is there an issue with that one? At least it drops right in and fits both the ALH flywheel ALH assembly and T3 gearbox no mods needed.

I did make some extra clearanse between the flywheel and ALH case but that was marely to make sure the old T3 plate fitted without scraping.
I also modifyed the the fly wheel so that i can use both the old and the new starter. But both mods are more or less optional.

I do assume you know all this and that is what made me concerned, is there an issue why it is beter to go with the TDI shaft.

[narendra.vw]

Hi.
My 228 mm WBX 2.1 clutch is working fine. I don’t want mix & match hence I’m going for TDI shaft.
TDI clutch plate is always stronger. For Syncro, it’s a must.
This link should help clear your doubts on 228 mm clutch with TDI flywheel. Stroll midway!
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=5...p;start=40

Flywheel acts as a capacitor so, any noticeable reduction of mass on it, will reflect on engine performance(eg:- engine vibration).
TD starter fits with a 2mm reduction in flywheel dia. TDI starter needs a spacer(readily available).
At present I’m using TD starter.

[AndyBees]

In the pic below, the top shaft is for the TDI Clutch Disc.. notice the larger splined area as narendra.vw is referencing.

The other shaft is for a gasser engine. Notice it is longer by 22mm.

I'm also installing the TDI shaft in my transmission.
_________________
'84 Vanagon Tin-top, ALH TDI. 1989 Tin-top
1983 Air-cool, 225k miles, 180k miles mine. Seven trips to Alaska from 1986 thru 2003.

[allann]

About air filter... I see You have done some welding job for to fit OEM,but on the end it is modified OEM. Now it looks You have left without any space at all in engine compartment. Maybe for Your followers who want use air filter like this, but do not have enough space I can add my two cents. If Someone can weld, he can cut part of this barrel and make it shorter, leaving all plastics inside. after all, simply use shorter filter element matching diameter. At least I decided to go this way. Housing is shorter by 8cm. Element is ... I dont know for what car now , but I have all part numbers in my garage. Its for some nissan diesel engine.

Sorry If this info is offtopic.
_________________
Sorry for my English, hope You will understand me

[narendra.vw]

Thanks Mr, Andy for the additional Info.
It adds more clarity.
Good luck on your next project.

No problem Mr, allann, you are on topic.
I think any OE design, there's some purpose on it.
The OE filter Box was laying around with me when I went the k&n filter way. Now I wanted to go back to OE(TD) for the reason you all know.
The AFB mod pic you see is, removing the outlet duct collar to make way for MAF housing. Apart from that the AFB is stock. Also note I’m using TD plastic hose & TD bend rubber Hose. Both fall in exact position like the TD setup. The filter I’m using is bit longer than JX filter. Dia is same.

AFB space,
I did find enough space for the AFB along with MAF. Here, it also matters which Inter-cooler you are using.
For any filter box to fit, the inlet manifold Mod is a must. The only way to make space.
Thanks for sharing.

Next post I’ll come up with a finial more clear pic.