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Summer roadtrip Quebec Saguenay Fjord and St lawrence whales
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danfromsyr
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 25, 2013 6:25 am    Post subject: Summer roadtrip Quebec Saguenay Fjord and St lawrence whales Reply with quote

Headed out next week at the 4th of July with my 71yr old mom and a couple friends (3 VWs) from Syracuse, NY to Saguenay Fjord in the northern St lawrence river.
then returning back via New Hampshire's White Mtns and into vermont to hit West River Westies saturday july 13th before returning home.
expecting at least 1800miles over 11days.
http://tinyurl.com/vw-saguenay-2013

are there any must see or to-do's in the area?
anyone out in the semi remote beautiful part of the countryside?

I'll update this with travel fun and pics when (if?) we return Confused

Day 1 Planning to stay at Robert Moses State park and drive under the Eisenhower locks

day 2 Trying to pass around Montreal w/o traffic troubles but take the north shore roads to Quebec, Qc.
Staying at a Municipal camping in Beauport, Qc near the Chutes Montmorency (taller than Niagara)
and seeing a little Quebec city the evening we arrive

Day 3 tour Quebec City see the Aquarium, old port district, plains of Abraham, get lunch from the Market

Day 4 Taking the north shore roads. head to Tadoussac at the mouth of the Saguenay Fjord,
camping at Essipit Innuit campground with a view of the St Lawrence.

Day 5 Tour more north along the St lawrence along the Whale Route
to spot whales from the shore and see the rugged shoreline of the St Lawrence seaway.

Day 6 Taking a boat tour up the Saguenay Fjord to view the majesty from the water.

Day 7 head up to Lac St Jean along the Saguenay to the historic town Val Jalbert

Day 8 tour Val Jalbert, then leave for La Maurice National park via Rt-155 thru the Quebec backwoods.
maybe lunch in La Tuque if they'll allow my poor french

Day 9 is a long one of backroads thru small towns in the Frontenac region headed back to USA.
hopefully crossing at the northern tip of New Hampshire on Rt3 and down the north woods of NH.
headed to Moosebrook, State park in Gorham, NH just north of the White Mtns. we found this small town and campground charming during the summer busy season. and still easy access tot he White Mtns and Mt Washington valley regions. not overrun.

Day 10 is a shorter driving day but seeing more sights in the Mt Washington valley, Conway, and the White Mtns before setteling in White Lake state park near Ossipee, NH, Maybe take a pass on the Kanc scenic highway but it's soo much better in the fall.

Day 11 head across NH to Vermont and to West River westies. plan to get there in time for the pot luck, but will likely miss the floatilla.

Day 12 head home via Bennington, VT. maybe a stop at the Hemmings museum after brunch at Papa Pete's ( http://www.benningtonmenus.com/papa_petes_menu.pdf )
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 25, 2013 6:53 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Looks like a great trip....enjoy and drive safe...
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 25, 2013 7:00 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Really one of my best trips in the bus. If you are taking the ferry across the river, make sure you get there early.
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 25, 2013 7:13 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

we're staying all on the north shore of the St Lawrence river.
unless you mean the Rt-138 Tadoussac to Baie St Catherine ferry?
they say that runs every 13-20 minutes, so I wasn't expecting any troubles.
http://www.quebecmaritime.ca/en/company/tadoussac-baie-sainte-catherine-ferry/transportation

we're crossing at Trois Riviers on our return route towards New Hampshire.

Randy in Maine wrote:
Really one of my best trips in the bus. If you are taking the ferry across the river, make sure you get there early.

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PostPosted: Tue Jun 25, 2013 10:50 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

My neck of the wood.

Trust me, spend some time there:

http://www.campingbondesir.com/index_ang.html

http://www.meretmonde.ca/en/Mer-et-Monde/home.html

You will be waken up at night by whale song, in day time you will see them from your campground. About 1/2 mile toward Les Escoumins there is a road call The Pilot road, go down this one and park your car... be patient. You may see one of the most speculator free show in the world.

Take a look at those vid:


Link
[/vimeo]


Link



Link



Link



Link



IMHO, this is the best spot in Quebec, not to many tourist, PLENTY of Westy, good food, VERY quiet, nature at it's best.

This spot is on my top 5 list all over North America.
Warning, it can be cold as hell on the river, rain and dampness/humidity can be strong. Over there the local call the river the sea... it's where it's starting to be saline.

My personal picture:
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Welcome!

Ben
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danfromsyr
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 25, 2013 11:15 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

that's a great share there Ben, and I do have your new shop address jotted down, but would rather not need it and see ya on the road..


I think this will be my 1st of many trips up to this part of the world.
I've nearly fallen in love with the fall foliage images while researching this summer's trip. and we don't mind cold. far better than those in Pheonix, Az are getting Wink
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 25, 2013 5:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Then, when you come back in the fall, you are gonna want some of this.

http://gocanada.about.com/od/novascotia/ig/Cape-Breton-Pictures/Fall-Foliage-in-Cape-Breton.htm

RonC
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 25, 2013 5:54 pm    Post subject: road trip Reply with quote

I had a few things to add Dan but Ben trumped anything I had!!! Smile

Enjoy the trip! Its an amazing spot!

We did stay at Baie Sainte-Marguerite on the north side of the fjord. There is a bike trail out to the point where we got to see about 30 belugas. It was pretty amazing.

The boat cruise is pretty cool as is the hike up to the statue. I can't wait to get back with the Westy!

Brian
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 25, 2013 9:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Good times.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

That's where I learned that in English, a power dam that has been operating for 50 years can still be called a project Laughing Both the dam and the locks visitor centers are worth a stop.

Regarding tips and musts , you didn't really said what you're looking for, but still, a few random things. The main highlights of your trip are Quebec city and the Saguenay - so I'm voluntarily ignoring those and trying to comment on the lesser known parts.
- As an alternative to the Robert Moses State Park that can be crowded at times, you can consider the Coles Creek State park. In the very middle of nothing, but right by the river.
- Campgrounds in Quebec can be fairly busy in July, especially in the provincial and/or federal parks. Consider reserving (their site is really well done and covers all provincial parks).
- In the Parc de la Mauricie, they removed pretty much all the trees in one of the campgrounds about 10 years ago. I believe it's the eastmost campround (Rivière à la Pêche). If you like shade, better pick one of the two other campgrounds in the park.
- The little loop in your itinerary just before you reach the Parc de la Mauricie, near the St-Maurice river, is one of my favorite roads in Quebec.
- If you like Formula 1, you might like the Musée Gilles Villeneuve - you'll be driving right by it (caveat - I haven't seen it).
- Regarding what you call the "Frontenac" region (better known as the middle of nowhere between the Bois-Francs, Beauce and Estrie regions), the Frontenac Provincial park is very nice, one of the "not too crowded" parts of southern Quebec. Good canoeing oppurtinities on small and large lakes, great bird watching spots. Multiple campgrounds in the park - my preference goes to the northernmost ones (older, but closer to the water). There is also a new campground (Franceville, ~2 y.o) in the Mont Mégantic Provincial Park - very nice if you like medium hikes with nice views. Do not confuse it with the older campgrounds in the same park, that are walk-in, not drive-in. That new campground may still be unknown to many locals, so it might be easier to get a spot.


snowsyncro wrote:
Then, when you come back in the fall, you are gonna want some of this.

http://gocanada.about.com/od/novascotia/ig/Cape-Breton-Pictures/Fall-Foliage-in-Cape-Breton.htm

RonC


Nice picture Ron, but I prefer mine with a Vanagon in them... but I need to learn to hide the rain Wink

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Looking forward to seeing your pictures in a few weeks. Have a great trip.

Jean-Marc
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PostPosted: Wed Jun 26, 2013 10:26 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm heading to Saguenay too this year.
My rough itinerary

Sunday: start trip once Off ferry in Maine at 2:00pm
Sun night - Quebec camping, or So. of Quebec. On the fence staying at a CampGround that we can bike, or take public transportation into old Quebec - or limiting the drive and staying south of the city, and finding a place to bike and ride in the next morning - or skip Quebec and save for future long weekend trip (suggestions/places appreciated)

Monday - Quebec city AM (or save for future family visit) to Haute Gorges park for hiking
Mon night - Haute Gorges Camping

Tuesday - more hiking then depart, ferry, and through tadoussac
Tues. night camping: ParadisMarin or other river shore campground - any suggestions appreciated. ( or, spend 2 nights at Haute Gorges)

Wed - through Sunday. Saguenay to camp with Quebec group
Day trips out of Saguenay

Optional for Wed night -Maybe (rustic) camping anywhere north of Tadoussac to Lac St Jean. Maybe Parc national des Monts-Valin? Appreciate any suggestions!

Sunday - long drive home ~10 hours w/o gas/food stops. Maybe I need 1 more day off for stop over at friend's place in White Mountains in NH.
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PostPosted: Wed Jun 26, 2013 11:00 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

John while we're not staying here this time, you may want to put it in your notes

longest/2nd longest pedestrian suspension bridge
Coaticook Gorge Parc located just north of VT/NH borders.
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PostPosted: Wed Jun 26, 2013 3:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I hate scheduled / plan itinerary... go with the flow guys!!! A westy is MADE for that!!
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PostPosted: Wed Jun 26, 2013 5:55 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

ftp2leta wrote:
I hate scheduled / plan itinerary... go with the flow guys!!! A westy is MADE for that!!

I hear you - really just trying to secure camp spots. I have been assured that I will not be able to find camp spots in the areas I want to go to during August.

I don't have daily details planned, or even any idea the day trips I will take out of Saguenay, just don't feel like wasting time to try and secure a camp spot each day or cutting a day short to get to a campground early enough to get a spot.
Before kids, I would travel in September with no reservations, but August it is this time - and no complaints. Very Happy

Now when I rode my bike across country, it was winged every day, heck, didn't even have a map for 3 days - just pointed the bike west. But you can camp almost anywhere with a bicycle - even more freedom than a Westy! But the bed isn't quite as comfy.... Laughing
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PostPosted: Wed Jun 26, 2013 6:30 pm    Post subject: trip Reply with quote

Winging it Westy style is fun for sure but that being said...the year we went to Saguenay we booked for 4 nights. We had no idea we would like it SO much. We tried to book for longer but had to move sites each night. That would be ok with the van but at the time we had a HUGE tent!

We are heading to Newfoundland this summer...haven't booked a thing! Smile

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PostPosted: Thu Jun 27, 2013 6:18 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Remember one thing, our money is in pair or even higher with yours since about a year or so. People go south of the border (Virginia) to get some real heat and ocean that they can swim in.

That said, a lot of maritime province including eastern Quebec and even part of Ontario are suffering from that equality money wise. People are going south and you guys are not coming up (in General) so the tourist economy is suffering from that.

On top, so far we ave a rainy summer. Today the temp is 51 daytime on the north eastern shore of the river, on the water you need to be dress like it was winter.

The wale watching is at it best in August so is the temperature.

Don't worry about camping spot, any camping will find you a spot for one night even if they are full.

It's still pretty wild up there.

Sue this site for accurate weather:
http://weather.gc.ca/city/pages/qc-160_metric_e.html

Ben
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PostPosted: Thu Jun 27, 2013 8:15 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I did the whole circle of the Gaspe Peninsulain int he Westy and it was wonderful. The people were very nice to us, the food was pretty good, and the visuals were excellent.

The provencial parks are very nice to camp in.
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PostPosted: Thu Jun 27, 2013 9:26 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

ftp2leta wrote:
People are going south and you guys are not coming up (in General) so the tourist economy is suffering from that.

Rightly or wrongly, most of in the NorthEast (USA) are just ignorant of what's above us - that includes me Embarassed . I have mentioned Saguenay Fjord to several people, no one has heard of it, yet we can drive there in 1-2 days.
On top of that add the exchange rate; that certainly isn't helping and I'm kicking myself for not going years ago. Then add needing a passport and the limited summer and I can see the problem.

I'm looking at the Gaspe Peninsula, and other great places up there and I am looking forward to discovering this "new world" so close to home.
I'm trying to learn French, but I am so bad at it, that my wife actually gets mad at me when I can't remember even a word 2 minutes later. I am totally hopeless, Sad yet I can manage some German and work myself around a menu in Germany.
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PostPosted: Thu Jun 27, 2013 9:50 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Gaspe and the Maritimes get all of the press.
I have 2 canadians who work with me here at Syracuse University, they're from Ottawa and haven't heard of the Fjord.

then again I only discovered it when I was researching a Gaspe to Fundy trip that I never made (yet).

we're not looking for swimming or 4G cell service. Mom can bundle up easier than she can handle the heat/humidity of Virginia. we have family there. and they can keep the summer humidity & mobs of sheeople.
as long as the locals can understand my poor broken french. I'll manage to buy gas and food. the camping locaitons I chose were because they spoke or presented a website with english, so we'll meet in the middle there.

I'm traveling with 3 VWs of 2 people each and are open to adventure.

what I'm curious about is should I buy a pay-go cell phone in Canada (ontario) as I cross the border. just in case we need to make some cell service calls?

there are soo many small coves (l'Anse) I hope to find at least one high viewing point w/o too long of a hike/climb for mom.. but C'est la vie.. let the good times roll. Cool
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PostPosted: Thu Jun 27, 2013 9:52 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

vanagonjr wrote:

I'm trying to learn French, but I am so bad at it, that my wife actually gets mad at me when I can't remember even a word 2 minutes later. I am totally hopeless, Sad


I frequently hear this sentiment, but you should never, ever, let that be a reason to not visit 'la belle province.' There are even people that I know here that will go to great lengths to avoid having to stay in Quebec, say while driving from here to Ontario. Going through the US, driving straight through instead of stopping. Even filling up in New Brunswick so they won't have to stop for gas (which is actually ridiculous because it is just as French in northern New Brunswick as it is in Quebec).

If you come charging in as a brash Anglophone, wondering why the place is full of 'foreigners'; then yeah maybe you will get a less-than-warm reception. All of a sudden no-one knows any English. But, if you make a sincere effort, no matter how small, for example 'bonjour' then you will be surprised to find out that almost everyone in the hospitality industry knows enough English to at least get the message.

Maybe in the more remote regions there is little or no English, but let's face it, people travel all around the world, and there is always a way to communicate without knowing the native language. That is part of the adventure, right? Experiencing a foreign culture.

Anyhow, I visit Quebec every chance I get. We even had our honeymoon there. Many of my best memories are from there. With my high school (Parisian) French that no-one in Quebec understands anyway. So, just go...


...and say this "Pardonnez-moi, je ne parle pas francais." Every French person, no matter where, will understand that and happily switch to English, appreciating your efforts.

(Translation: Forgive me, I do not speak French.)

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PostPosted: Thu Jun 27, 2013 11:25 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ronc, the best ever post I have read in years. Nothing do do with Quebec just the general meaning of your post. But again, your in NS, for me it's still one of the best spot in NA. NS as everything to offer. About everything that other province an offer. There is some dumb folks everywhere....

Al ot of you know Larry chase.. he went up there alone and believe it or not he made some friend without ever speaking a word in French... neither his friend spoke one world of English.

Where I live now (shop also) no one speak English.. I'm 35 minutes from Montreal.

This is the SAME problem for a lot of French (only) Canadian... they won't leave Quebec because they are afraid not to be understand.

Myself, I do think that living in a pool of English speaking folk you to learn some English.

Don't be the typical stupid uneducated snob American that travel in Europe and want to be serve in English only... I have seen that quite a few time in Mexico and Europe.

Just learn the basic: Thanks = merci, - good day = Bonjour

"""Pardon, Je ne parle pas Francais""" (sorry I don't speak French) will get you anywhere with open arms.

At last, p-mail me if you want, I will give my cell and if you have any problem call me and I will translate.

Phone: call your provider and ask them for a deal on Canadian soil. When I travel in the US this is what I do.

The cell reception is not that good over there.

The spectacular part of the route is in between Quebec city and Les Escoumins. close to the Cabot trail in NS.

Now, a few picture of my own:

A view from the Tadoussac campground:

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


A view from Le Paradis Marin campground

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Bon desir campground view from the river:
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

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