Bought a 73 hard top bus need help with a couple questions

[tinygiant]

The bus started for a couple seconds with starting fluid.. but its currently out of gas.

but i would like to get it started today. so i have some questions


This retangular thing under the spring has a hose connected to it that goes nowhere.. should that be connected to something?

Fuel pump is not connected to power.. where do i connect that to?

The relay on the top right here has 4 wires coming from it.. they are all connected

but there is a wire loom that those relay wires come from (and others) and there are two things not connected.

one has a spade end black wire (ignore that red wire its a direct feed from the battery)

the other is a plastic retangular ended wire

I think if i can get the fuel pump hooked up and get some gas in it it should run.
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[williamM]

This might be a center mount progressive so your fuel pump will want a wire off the ig side (15) of the coil for now.

That mystery tube from the front is a crankcase vent and goes to the air cleaner. That red may come from the battery or alt. The black may be an ignition hot lead to the original dual carb choke set up.

What you need is the colored wiring diagram from here and a couple of good books AND a big fire extinguisher if you are going to play with that rolling fire ball before you fix the many hidden/rotten vapor and fuel lines.

SO- welcome to the interesting challenging world of the vw bus.
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[tinygiant]

So

in this picture the bottom empty spade connector would go to the fuel pump?
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[tinygiant]

i'm going to grab a new fuel filter, and some small hose clamps. the fuel pump inlet side doesnt have one and the inlet side of the fuel filter doesnt either.

figure they should probably have clamps. lol
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[busdaddy]

Welcome and congratulations!
To begin with please put away the starting fluid, great for large direct injection diesels but death for low compression gas engines like the VW, cracked pistons and broken rings are no fun. A small squirt bottle of gasoline does the same thing but safely.
That fuel pump should be powered through a relay, it will eventually melt your ignition switch connecting it directly to the coil and keep running in the event of a crash feeding a potential fire. It's also much too big for that application and will need a good pressure regulator between it and the carb. I read you are already getting some clamps but you'll want new fuel lines as well, don't trust the old rubber unless you like bonfires.
That black wire in the RF corner of the engine compartment was part of the diagnostic system, tape it up well as it's live battery power and you don't need sparks in there.
Before you plan on any drives it would be worth the time to look under the tin for debris and small animal nests, I see some junk ontop so there's likely more down in the cooling fins and ontop of the oil cooler, you wouldn't drive a watercooled car with no radiator would you? You'll also want to replace or freshen up any seals as cooling air leaks are bad.
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[tinygiant]

this bus supposedly was running last november. The fuel hoses are actually new and theres about 4ft more hose in the bus left over.


So for the relay..


go from the coil ->relay-> pump



I have small landscaping company so i just took a backpack blower to the engine before i went to grab the fuel filter and clamps. Nothing sitting on the engine now.


have a link to a fuel pressure regulator i can grab?

would that be the easiest and cheapest thing to get this fuel pump situation figured out.. is there a better option than using the pump that is there now?
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[tinygiant]

I think i would honestly rather use the stock fuel pump if possible. unless using the other one would be more reliable..

more stock the better is usually how i see it.


it is there

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[tinygiant]

i found this one online

http://www.airheadparts.com/vintage-vw-parts/new-l...21127025-a
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[busdaddy]

That would be the ideal fix, no added strain on the electrical system, correct pressure and no gravity feed when parked, and @~$50.00 cheaper than a good electric pump/regulator and relay. Lucky you, most have a former FI engine installed with no place to mount the mechanical pump, the disconnected one that's on there now likely leaks but it may be worth a try hooking it up to see.
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[tinygiant]

So there are three ports on the mechanical fuel pump.


the bent one.. the straight one and the one on the bottom..

what goes where?


obviously the tank will connect to one. The other end will connect to where the fuel filter is inline right now..

where does the bottom one go?

and which is the inlet and outlet.


Sorry for my complete noob questions. I have a haynes book but it doesnt really say what port is what.. the diagram shows me how to dismantle the pump.. but i even think that one is an earlier pump.. the one that mounts on the engine near the distributor.. which mine doesnt











found an extra carb in the bus too..

seems to be the same one that is on the bus right now

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[tinygiant]

found this

says top in bottom out..


so what is the one on the opposite side of mine for?
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[tinygiant]

ha i will keep posting what i find. hopefully this thread will help someone else at some point


found this page
http://www.ratwell.com/technical/EngineRemoval.html

"
17.1) 72-74 dual carbs: the fuel lines from the mechanical fuel pump must be disconnected. You can disconnect it at the pump or above. If you disconnect it from the pump, disconnect the larger hose on the straight tube. The bent tube connects to the smaller hose that leads to the carbs and goes through the tin. The hose (blue arrow) is a breather line that goes through a grommet in the deflection plates. Both can be left connected."




So i have the bent one going from the bent line going to the carb.

I have the tank going from tank to fuel filter to pump..

and that one on the bottom going to nothing.



When i put a little gas in the carb the bus starts right up.. but as soon as it burns that off it dies.

the line going to the pump has gas in it.. so i know gas is getting to the pump..

Nothing is leaking.. so i just need to figure out how to get gas from the pump to the carb.

i tired sucking on the line going to the carb.. seeing if i could pull gas through it and i couldnt.. not sure if that matters since it probably wouldnt allow gas anyways if it was good internally. (is that right?)
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[tinygiant]

so does that breather hose connect to something?
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[tinygiant]

one test i found online said to disconnect the line going to the carb and crank the engine.. if no gas comes out replace the pump..

i'm thinking thats probably what i am going to have to do.

anyone want to confirm that?

anything i need other than the pump and gasket?

this look like the right one?
http://www.airheadparts.com/vintage-vw-parts/new-l...21127025-a
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[busdaddy]

The slightly larger one is the inlet (probably the bent one), the tiny one is a drain and had a short hose leading through the lower cylinder tin onto the ground. That hex shaped plug has a small filter screen under it, check that it's clean, sucking on it won't work as it's designed to shut off fuel flow when not operating.
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[tinygiant]

well is raining now.. darn my lack of a garage.

i could try swapping the fuel lines to see if the site i quoted before had them backwards..


would make sense if its not throwing gas to the carb if its sucking from the wrong side.

hopefully thats the case. would be nice to get it running. sounds like it will run well when it has fuel delivery.
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[tinygiant]

Swapped the fuel lines.. no help.

also decided to try that fuel pump hooked inline between the mechanical pump and the carb .. figured maybe it would help things at least get through the line... No luck.


So i guess i will probably grab a working mechanical fuel pump and see if that does the trick.

guess i will have to grab a8mm triple square bit too.. since i cant find mine to get the old pump out.

the pump comes with a gasket.. is there anything else i should order with it?
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[Wildthings]

[tinygiant]

[williamM]

Subaru did that "straight down the throat vent way back and had to recall all those cars- as long term winter driving would ice the throttle shaft so it would not shut off

So- maybe putting up with a little dribble is not such a bad idea.

TWO carbs-- great- if you get around to super tuning that system you can now set jets in one while being able to run the other.
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some days I get up and just sit and think. Some days I just sit.

opinion untempered by fact is ignorance.

Don't step in any!