Do You Have to Slam Your Sliding Door?

Bob D.

I have to give my sliding door quite a long hard shove to get it to fully close. The door gaps are perfect and the door slides easily on the track, so I don't think it is out of alignment, but it just doesn't want to latch without basically slamming it. Is this typical, and if not, what do I adjust or lubricate?

I did try lubricating the aluminum pivot piece at the rear of the door, but my quick spraying there didn't help. Any thoughts?
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1978 7-Passenger, 37K miles
Proud Member #1, SBS (Stock Bus Society)

*Enjoy and appreciate your good health*

We used to play for silver
Now we play for life

ratwell · Posted: Fri Nov 14, 2003 12:32 pm Post subject:

How well does the door want open when it's closed and you push down on the handle? If it swings open on it's own easily then it's correctly lubed and will be about as easy to close as it gets.

My door used to work fine but was hard to close then I learned it needed lubrication in the hinge, in the track, on the striker surfaces. I used to push at the back to collapse the hinge and make it close quietly rather than slam it home.

When my bodywork was done the door wasn't put on right so I had to make all the adjustments that the Bentley outlines. Now it closes nicely.

I recommend you read it first before looking for worn out parts: the nylon guide piece wears and there are several bearings.
_________________
'78 Westfalia CDN
'76 Doublecab
Read the Baywindow FAQ

VW Addict · Samba Salesman Joined: January 09, 2003 Posts: 3920

I belong to the slammin Bus Door Club. (BDC) Want to join?

Meyer · Samba Member Joined: October 30, 2003 Posts: 807

Bob D. · Posted: Fri Nov 14, 2003 2:06 pm Post subject:

What is the best stuff to lubricate the doors with? I have lots of Tri-Flow around, but I'm guessing something more like grease or lubricating paste would be better? Anybody have any favorite stuff, since I'm going to have to buy it anyway?

And Addict, sorry, but I am already a member of the rival to your club, the slammin' Type2 Door Club (TDC). Smile

_________________
1978 7-Passenger, 37K miles
Proud Member #1, SBS (Stock Bus Society)

*Enjoy and appreciate your good health*

We used to play for silver
Now we play for life

bajorek · Samba Member Joined: May 25, 2003 Posts: 726

Mine has to be closed with medium force- minimal being Richard's description.
I have to give it a good running push to make it close. However, when a window is open, it closes very easily. I guess this is a sign that I have a good airtight bus.

Randy in Maine · Posted: Fri Nov 14, 2003 2:18 pm Post subject:

I used white lithium grease out of a spray can. Don't forget to do the bottom also.

Actually I use that on all of the hinges, because it sprays so well.

bljones · Posted: Fri Nov 14, 2003 2:23 pm Post subject:

i second the lithium grease recommendation. great stuff.
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OG JHC
Author of Original Rant #1
"It stingd itself to dead... now that is control on you"

2%

blissfulbeing

Hey ya'll... so glad you've brought up this topic, because I was just about to do the same!

My issue is that my sliding door won't fully latch. (Well, OK, it's not my sliding door, it belongs to my bus, but you get the idea, eh?) I do need to lube the sliders and such but that's almost certainly not my problem. I pull up on the handle to latch the door and the latch does pull the door in, but then it relaxes and doesn't stay latched. The door, thankfully, doesn't fly open when I'm driving.

I pulled the paneling away to look at what's back there and I noticed that of the two connecting rods that attach the front "remote control latch" to the "rear center lock" (terms ala Haynes), only the top rod moves when I pull on the handle, either up or down. I tried adjusting the rear striker plate (advice from Haynes, again) but that wan't the problem.

Before I start loosening screws and dismanteling things I wanted to check with all of you first to see what you had to say.
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Live Woodstock In Your Heart...

'68 Bay Window Camper

MrBreeze · Posted: Fri Nov 14, 2003 2:27 pm Post subject:

My problem is the opposite. Mine closes fine, but I need to pull out on the rear to open it. It won't pop open just just lifting the handle, I usually pull a little on the back of the jalousie window.

Any idea where to look?
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-=Rob

WTB: Bay Shore or Queensboro VW Frames

HBB 1984-2009
RW 1943-2011
ER 1964-2023

jeremyrockjock · Posted: Fri Nov 14, 2003 2:45 pm Post subject:

I am no longer a member of the Slam door club. I can tell you the secret for a major difference. Yes lubing the track is very inportant and makes a huge difference. I overhauled my door 2 weeks ago and it works like a dream. The thing that made the most improvement was the hanger pivots. After lubing my track the door rolled fine but would not pop out in the back without having to pull on it. I took the door off and took the rear hanger assy out. I took it apart and used antiseize to lube the bushings in the pivots. When I put in back together it worked awesome. I barely touch the handle and the back pops out and the door rolls a few inches back on its own. It closes like a dream too. It takes very little effort.
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Why buy what you can build.
Step away from the fiberglass and no one gets hurt!!

ratwell · Posted: Fri Nov 14, 2003 3:23 pm Post subject:

I think the biggest problem closing has to do with door aligment. When it's right, it's right. Putting in a new seal, especially an aftermarket seal that isn't quite factory dimensions will make it harder to close.

As for opening, I think the biggest problem is the hinge. The hinge was a nice silver when it left the factory and after only a few years it rusts out. When all is right and the bus is parked on an incline, opening the door will cause it to slide to the rear. Oiling the two holes seemed to work will until the temperature dropped and the oil thickened. 3-in-1 oil was never thick enough to use. Anti-seize is an interesting idea...

You need to work the lube into the hinge and the lube in the track needs to be worked in also. The last stuff I used in the track was put on by the bodyshop after they replace my door incorrectly. The stuff they used was black and runny. It worked great for sliding but on the highway it tended to spill over and mess up the side panel. The white lithium in a spray can isn't any good. You need to use the tub and spread it around. Since it's white it doesn't make a noticeable mess either.
_________________
'78 Westfalia CDN
'76 Doublecab
Read the Baywindow FAQ

Sk84Jesus3 · Posted: Mon Mar 10, 2008 11:42 am Post subject:

Anyone know where I can buy a new "remote control lock"? Or do I have to go the used route? Mine has busted. If I replace it, would it be worth it to overhaul the whole door while I'm at it? If not, is there anything else that would absolutely need to be replaced at the same time?

Thanks everyone.
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What's under the hood? A tire. There's a spare engine in the trunk.

busman78 · Posted: Mon Mar 10, 2008 11:56 am Post subject:

I lube the hinge and rollers with sewing machine oil, never do the track, too easy to get gummed up. If the rollers are free wheeeling and the hinge smooth the track does not need lubed.

WileyVW · Posted: Mon Mar 10, 2008 12:01 pm Post subject: sliding door

This may cause ya'll to cover me in a hail of rocks and bottles. Your are pushing your door closed and then lifting the handle up to complete the close and bring the back inline. I say this because until I learned this I thought it was a problem with the door.

Okay I have my helmet and googles on let the hail begin
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WTB Plate surround from Memphis

1968 OG, camper 14"Fuchs & Gilmore A/C, XMI,Bose,Dual Batteries,Jet-Hot Exhaust,

pb24ss · Posted: Mon Mar 10, 2008 2:34 pm Post subject:

my sliding doors have handles on the back that i use to pull inward as i'm sliding the hand hold forward. it's tyhe same handle that opens the sliding door, but it's mounted under the window towards the back of the door. makes closing it easy for even the kids.

Hippopotabus · Posted: Mon Mar 10, 2008 3:29 pm Post subject:

I use to have these same problems.... Wanna know the secret.....

Slide the door gently closed, you'll notice how the door is not completely sealed.

Grab outside slider handle and pull in an upward motion. This will bring everything together (aligning, locking and sealing) without having to slam the door and destoy tiny springs and sctuff.

And yes you should lube everything but try my time proven method. If it doesn't work check your cables in the door.
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Celer, Silens, Letalis
www.2dreconbn.net

dhoch14 · Posted: Mon Mar 10, 2008 4:53 pm Post subject:

i gotta slam the crap out of mine to get it closed. hopefully after some lube it will work better. I attribute this to the aftermarket seal and the crappy job I did of putting it in. Laughing

looks like I'm gonna spend some time lubing it up again and hope it is better.
_________________
73 Transporter AT w/ Dual Solexs

An east coast bus on the west coast...

crxgames · Posted: Mon Mar 10, 2008 5:05 pm Post subject:

Count me in as a member of the slam the side door club. Went and messed with it a bit earlier today, definitely needs slamming. I'm thinking it's my bottom rail, but I haven't messed with it yet.

Millennium Falcon · Posted: Mon Mar 10, 2008 5:34 pm Post subject:

Yes, by all means, use the Hippopotabus method. It is the proper way to close your door. It is actually described in your owners manual. This is the book that everyone seems to forget about.
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"Don't worry, she'll hold together . . . You hear me, baby? Hold together!" -Han to the Falcon

1972 White Campmobile
1700 cc Type IV
Dual Solex 34 PDSIT2/3


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Do You Have to Slam Your Sliding Door?
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